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Lunar Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 38
4
AU

Seasonality

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Description

Lunar Wall is the first wall left of Red Wall. It can be easily identified by some white areas/streaks on the rock about 80 meters above the foot of the cliff.

Approach

Driving from Unwin Lodge, park at the third bay after the bridge then follow the track, crossing the dry creek and heading towards Red Wall. Veer left toward the smaller scree slopes leading up to the wall.

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Routes

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Run out, some bolt are 4-5 meter apart! Has rap anchors half way up.

FA: Nick cradock, 1983

1 17 25m
2 17 20m
3 15 40m
4 15
  1. After Nicked, keep traversing right after the overlap, watching out for loose rocks on the white scoop/roof area before getting to the double anchor on the right.

  2. Keep right and go around the arete veering left to climb up the ramp - this pitch is combined with pitch 3 on ClimbNZ

  3. Climb up veering to the right following some run out steps - this pitch is combined with pitch 2 on ClimbNZ

  4. Climb up the large block and gain the arete following the face through loose blocks

Abseil from the top anchor to Red Wall (Ernie/Bert) using two 60m ropes

About 15 meters after the start of the first pitch of Nicked Extension, traverse left below the first horizontal white roof to find a double-anchor belay station. From there, climb directly up through both roofs and meet the anchor of Nicked Extension after 10-15 meters of easy climbing without bolts.

FA: Sam Henehan & Murray Judge, 15 Jan 2018

Bring two ropes to get down - although apparently it is possible to rap across to the anchors half way up Nicked.

FA: Brent Shears, 1999

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Fri 25 Feb
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