Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Waikato Lake Taupō Whanganui Bay Lobotomy Buttress | |||||
20 | Just Playing
FA: Simon Vallings & Paul Mason, 1983 | 8m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Dazed and Confused
FA: Simon Vallings & Paul Mason, 1983 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Punishment of Luxury
3rd route from the left. FA: Simon Vallings & Paul Mason | 14m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Duudooduudoo
The name is Duudooduudoo as in a heart beating heavily. Originally two pitches with the belay in the cave, but most people climb this as one long 45m climb. Watch your rope length. Most people climb Evolution as the first pitch and avoid the original route to the left. FA: Simon Vallings, 1984 | 45m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★★ Turbomingent Torremounting Tossers
Start as for Duudoo and then blast right to the arete after the cave belay for Evolution. FA: Simon Vallings | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Evolution
Starts up chalky ramp and through small overlap above the second bolt. Move left through the bulge at the 7th bolt finishing by traversing right into the cave. FA: Len Gillman | 18m, 7 | |||
22 | Zip Zap
First bolt shared with 'Evolution'. FA: Len Gillman | 16m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Nobody's hero
FA: Grant Davidson & Jo Straker | 20m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Bart
FA: Grant Davidson, Graeme Aimer & Trent Hiles, 1984 | 20m, 4 | |||
18 | Fagin
FA: Jo Straker, Grant Davison & Grant Davidson, 1984 | 11m, 2 | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Whanganui Bay Mangakara Pacifica Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret
Head up to the first bolt before traversing left, then up the middle of the bulging wall. Finishes up the tricky short arete. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 25m, 9 | |||
20 | ★★ Ignition
Access from the Re-Ignition belay ledge. Goes up the fun headwall after a damp start. Link into Re-Ignition for a mega route. FA: Kristen Foley, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Re-Ignition
From The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret ledge, head straight up the featured wall with some fire-hot moves to pull over the bulge. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 25m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Pacifica
Rap in to the small ledge level with Re-Ignitions 3rd bolt. Climb the overhanging feature to your right before the lip. Topping out is not an option, so either climb Re-Ignition or walk out to get back to the road. FA: Kester Brown, 2001 | 18m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Rip & Run
Starts steep and juggy before the left-facing corner. Tackle the final bulges to gain access to the anchor. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 28m, 10 | |||
24 | ★★★ The Man on the Clapham Omnibus
Go up the central part of the wall going through a wide variety of terrain. Extendable draws will be useful. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2013 | 28m | |||
23 | The Hit Parade
From the ledge, climb up towards the arete before a final headwall. Exit by scrambling up the vegetated bolt garden FA: Kristen Foley, 2013 | 23m, 8 | |||
26 | ★ The Wire
Climbs the gentle featured arete. Access from the top or a diagonal rap. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 26m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Propaganda
Alternate of Propagation. Start as for Propagation, but head left up the hanging arete. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 20m, 9 | |||
21 | ★★★ The Re-Up
From the Propagation belay, trend right up the featured wall, staying right of the seam before joining the last few meters of Propagation. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2013 | 20m, 11 | |||
The Bunk Project
Fifty meters right of The Re-Up. Climbs the peapod feature before going up the headwall. Closed Project. | 15m | ||||
23 | ★★ The New Day Co-Op
Alternate finish to The Bunk Project. Climbs the right trending seam to the pocketed headwall. FA: John Palmer, 2014 | 15m, 5 | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Whanganui Bay Mangakara The Upper Gorge | |||||
24 | Wish You Were Here
P1: 20m (24) Scramble up steep bank to get to the base. 7 bolts on arete. P2: (21) 3 bolts. FA: Kester Brown, 2002 | 40m, 2, 10 | |||
20 | Sylvia's Arete
Abseil into a hanging belay from the top of the cliff. Climb to bolted belay. FA: D. Matheson, 1993 | 22m, 5 | |||
25 | Rubber Band Man
The red arete that finishes half way up the cliff and starts behind the prominent tanekaha. Climb the wall to the hanging arete and then up the arete. FA: Neil Parker, 1993 | 22m, 8 | |||
Waikato Reporoa Gorge Christmas Crag | |||||
18 | ★★ Three Boulders
FA: Matt Natti & Fionn Claydon, 2006 | 9m, 4 | |||
Project
| |||||
20 | ★★ Flying Frenchman
Technical stemming leads last 2 bolts to the anchor FA: Matt Natti, 2007 | 14m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Cyclopean Nightmare
FA: Steven King, 2007 | 8 | |||
17 | Plecostimus
FA: Brendon, 2007 | 5 | |||
21 | Butterfingers
FA: Matt Natti, 2007 | 4 | |||
Project 2
| 3 | ||||
15 | Baraka
FA: Jeremy Rowe, 2007 | 3 | |||
19 | P-nut, Bolt or Jelly
FA: Matt Natti, 2007 | 6 | |||
Waikato Reporoa Gorge Right Hand End | |||||
17 | Bloody Knuckles
FA: Joe Morrow & Matt Natti | ||||
21 - 23 | Open Project
| 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Spice of Life
FA: Matt Natti & Fionn Claydon, 2007 | 5 | |||
18 | ★ Not so Spicy
FA: Matt Natti | 5 | |||
Fingercrack Project
Closed Project. | 1 | ||||
17 | ★★ Picking on the Skinny Kid
FA: Tom Johns, 2007 | 3 | |||
19 | Lady Patience
FA: Tom Johns, 2007 | 2 | |||
18 | ★ All the Tired Cliques
FA: Tom Johns, 2007 | 2 | |||
19 | Arete
FA: Brad Heuson, 2007 | 4 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond The Hollow | |||||
16 | Earth Below
| 15m, 6 | |||
17 | ★★ Heaven Bound
| 15m, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Root Free
| 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Stump Free
Up the face to a wide chimney. | 15m, 8 | |||
15 | Please Keep Off
| ||||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Access Saddle | |||||
17 | ★ Don Quixoted
Climb up the face using the arete and nice ledges up to the anchor. FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 1 May 2019 | 10m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ 17
Easy start leads to a steep finish. | 10m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Love You Long Time
Nice climbing to an amazing friction crux. | 10m, 4 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Next Crag | |||||
17 | Holey Moley
FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 17 May 2019 | 10m, 5 | |||
13 | ★★ Is That It
FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 17 May 2019 | 8m, 3 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Frog Buttress | |||||
17 | ★★ Cowboy Dreams
Climb the face following the bolts. FFA: Bryce Martin, David Garrity & Tom, 27 Feb 2019 | 10m, 6 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Tangarahu Rock | |||||
18 | ★ Flight of the Kereru
Located on uphill side of the rock. Balancy start to a technical reachy finish. FA: John Newby & Josh Taylor, 1999 | 8m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Fugly
Sustained climbing on small holds. FA: John Newby, 1999 | 8m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Hanging Runnel
Up the widening groove, tending left to anchor of 'Flight of the Kereru'. FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 17 May 2019 | 8m, 3 | |||
15 | Joshies Chimney
Obvious chimney leads to a exposed finish. FA: Josh Taylor, 2000 | 8m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Bite Me Gently
Nice climbing on good rock with positive holds. FA: John Newby & Josh Taylor, 1999 | 8m, 3 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Main Cliff | |||||
17 | ★★ Sweet Araceli
Starts under obvious nose. Head left to horizontal break. Head right then finish up the face. FA: Josh Taylor, John Newby & Lester Moore, 1999 | 15m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Flight of the Frogs
Start under the nose, stay right and head through the roof. Then head back laft through an easy mantle onto the slab. Finish as for SA (shares last bolt and anchor). FA: Daniel Krippner, 16 Jul 2014 | 16m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Cochise
Start left of BB and head through roofs. FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Feb 2020 | 16m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Big Boy
Follow the crack to a horizontal break. Up to a huge jug and fun finish. FA: John Newby, 2003 | 18m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Dark Horizons
Pumpy climbing to a boulder crux. FA: Kerry Crawford, 2004 | 18m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★★ French Cuisine
Originally trad and started from the left. The more direct bolted start is a little harder. Climb through the crack system to a large groove. Awesome finish in exposed position. FA: John Newby & Josh Taylor, 1999 | 18m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Monkey in the Jungle
Start up cracks. Nice climbing on underclings up to flake. Big move up to crux holds. Exciting finish in exposed position. FA: John Newby, 2003 | 18m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Chk Chk Boom
Powerful start (crux) leads to a nice finish under tiny roof. FA: Kerry Crawford, 2004 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Feral Tendancies
On the far right of the main wall. The name rings true as does the nature of some of the moves. FA: John Newby, 2001 | 22m, 8 | |||
15 | Verde Sunset
A nice chimney. FA: Kelly Chiusano, 2002 | 12m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Mutation in my Genes
Amazing sustained climbing on awesome rock. Sloper edges lead to a technical crux. Veer left to finish. FA: John Newby, 2002 | 12m, 5 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Stepped Down Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Awatiro Arete
Start on boulder. Clip bolt then do hard move onto the arete. Nice climbing. Hidden hold to finish. FA: John Newby & Josh Taylor, 2000 | 12m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★★ Hour Glass
Excellent climbing on slopers. Sustained. | 15m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★★ The Temptress
Technical start up the crack leads to a relentless finish. FA: John Newby, 2001 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Eat Dirt
Sloper climbing with nice rests. | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | Back of Mina
FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 19 Feb 2019 | 8m, 4 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Bottom of the Hill | |||||
17 | ★ Last Waltz
FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 17 Apr 2019 | 8m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Alloldtimers
Set: Bryce Martin & Rick McGregor | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Ruminator
FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Mar 2019 | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Jumpity Jump
FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 17 Apr 2019 | 10m, 4 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Parking Lot Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Miss Josaphine
| 13m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Paid in Full
| 17m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Meadze Arete
| 18m, 7 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Waterfall Area | |||||
15 | Comfy Chair
FA: Matt Natti & Kaitlin O'Reily, 2009 | 2 | |||
16 | Oracular Spectacular
FA: Kaitlin O'Reily & Matt Natti, 2009 | 4 | |||
18 | Up and Smoke
FA: Matt Natti & Kaitlin O'Reily, 2009 | 3 | |||
18 | ★ The Totara and the Waterfall
FA: Matt Natti, 2008 | 20m, 7 | |||
19 | Crazy Head
FA: Matt Natti, 2008 | 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ Ahl-i-Najasa
FA: Ryan von Haeseley, 2009 | 18m, 7 | |||
20 | ★★★ Fond Memories of Rattlesnake Mountain
FA: Matt Natti, 2008 | 20m, 7 | |||
18 | A "maid"ing Grace
FA: Matt Natti, 2008 | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle
FA: Dan Head, 2008 | 20m, 5 | |||
Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa Upper Headwall | |||||
17 | 80 Meter Knot
Obvious crevice then straight up. Hidden hold out right of the top crack. FA: Tim Broos | 4 | |||
23 | ★ Meow
Start at the obvious stal, go up and right with a big move, then left and fun to the end. FA: Tim Broos | 5 | |||
19 | Dyno to the Top if you Dare
Start down the hump then go leftish then up. Guess the end. FA: Steven gavin | 4 | |||
18 | Belay Device Hickey
Up the face starting at the top of the hump. Then stay in the corner after the ledge. Set: Steven gavin FA: Patrick van der Velde | 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Oh My Pretty Things
Up and left. Same anchor as Battle with the Thornberries. Set: Steven gavin & Paul Ware FA: Paul Ware, Jan 2016 | 4 | |||
21 | ★ Battle with the Thornberries
Straight up next to the slab. Shares anchor as Oh My Pretty Things. Set: Steven gavin & Paul Ware FA: Steven gavin, Jan 2016 | 4 | |||
23 | Life on the Ledge
Up the slab, crux is at the top of the slab transferring to the crack. Head for the ledge then up the face. Set: Zane Bray FA: Steven gavin | 5 | |||
21 | A Long Long Time Ago There Was a Big Bang
Stays close to the Stal through the obvious face. FA: Steven gavin | ||||
20 | A Long Long Time Ago There Was a Little Bang
Start on slab, crux is a weird cross over move into the side wall then gun for the belay. FA: Steven gavin | 8m, 4 |