Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | |||||
Closed Te Moenga-o-Wheke / The Tors | |||||
27 | Someone Else's Girl
Destroyed during earthquakes. FA: Tony Ward-Homes, 1993 | ||||
Three Sisters The Twisted Sister | |||||
27 | Getting Nowhere Fast
FA: Jonathan Wilkinson, 1999 | ||||
27 | ★ Swing Out Sister
Destroyed during the 2010/2011 earthquakes. FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 7 | |||
27 | Hatched Matched & Despatched
Destroyed during the 2010/2011 earthquakes. FA: Tony Burnell, 1998 | 5 | |||
27 | Centre Piece
Destroyed during the 2010/2011 earthquakes. FA: Tony Burnell | 6 | |||
27 | ★ More Perverted Than Twisted
FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 3 | |||
Mount Pleasant Right Cliff | |||||
27 | ★★ Dominion
FA: Dave Fearnley, 1988 | 14m, 1 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Ataturk Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Striking Distance
FA: Tony Burnell, 1997 | 4 | |||
27 | ★★ The Lyttelton Arms
Climb the crux of Bridging Over Lyttelton, then at the second bolt above the roof, head left to pass the final two bolts of Location… and finish as for that route. More sustained than the original, with a sting in the tail! | 18m, 7 | |||
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome | |||||
27 | ★ Pump Cake
Climb Mega Pump but instead of going straight up at the left end of the Gone Bimbo traverse, continue left to link into Layer Cake. | 8 | |||
27 | ★ Mega Pump | 7 | |||
27 | ★★ Mysterious Swine Disease
Gymnastic and steep moves almost directly out the wall, going slightly left to finish at top of Gone Bimbo. Good edges if a bit sharp, and plenty of bolts! FA: Pete Taw, 1992 | 12m, 7 | |||
27 | ★ Carnivore
FA: Peter Taw, 1993 | ||||
27 | Gone Bimbo Direct Start
FA: Lionel Clay, 1989 | 12m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★★ Gone Bimbo
The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Often wet. Pull to the fourth bolt then traverse R along the crack. Previously required a cam at the end of the traverse; now there's an extra bolt. There's also a new anchor to the left of the original anchor, which has rusted badly. Numerous variations exist. FA: Ton Snelder, 1989 | 12m, 7 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Mr Clean Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | 4 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Rage Wall | |||||
27 | Prize Fighter
Starts just left of Leaning Wall, on big holds to the first bolt. A fierce crux presents itself immediately off of the ledge, then eases to a juggy ramble. Join Leaning Wall above the last bolt. FFA: Owen Davies Set: Tony Burrell | 18m, 8 | |||
Jane Fonda Workout Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Flock To The Rock Direct Start
FA: Derek Thatcher | 25m, 5 | |||
Britten Crag The Alcove | |||||
27 | ★ Peak Puppies
Climb Peak Plonkers to the third bolt, then traverse hard right, clipping the bolt beneath the roof, to link with Hushpuppy below its final bolt. Hard if you stay below the roof on the traverse, easier if you traverse higher. | 7 | |||
27 | ★ Deep Impact
Starts about 1.5 metres to the right of Real Slim Shady. Somehow surmount the roof on minuscule holds, then link into RSS past the third bolt. Take care with the death blocks at the top. FA: Tony Burnell, 2001 | 20m, 6 | |||
Britten Crag Tiger Wall | |||||
27 | Playing with the Big Boys
Takes a line left of Southern Exposure, swing out left onto reasonable holds, continue gymnastically over the roof and up small holds to get to a jug at the fourth BR. Move up and over the roof to finish at the belay of SE. FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 12m, 6 | |||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
27 | ★ Rowdy Mode
Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left to the Attack Mode anchor. FA: Lucas Dowell, 2020 | ||||
27 | Attack Hog
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to the good holds between bolts 4 and 5 of Let There Be Bolts. From here, go back right to the Attack Mode anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | ||||
27 | ★ Groundhog Day
Go halfway up Bolts and break right above the big blob. Some long moves lead you to the Attack Mode anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | 13m, 7 | |||
27 | ★ Hung Like Elvis
Start up the line of bolts to the right of Kaz's. Climb up to a dyno and then traverse into the pigeon pod of Ride of the Valkyries. Finish here on a single bolt. FA: John McCallum, 1994 | ||||
27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip
Cave classic and always climbed on. Most people's first climb here. Start up the short slab and continue straight up to the chains over the lip of the cave. Most people jump off the top instead of clipping the chains to avoid destroying their rope. FA: Matt Evrard, 1993 | 15m, 7 | |||
27 | ★ He Devil
Obvious linkup of Rubble into Gorilla Grip. A/k/a She Devil Lite. | 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Shrubble
Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right on jugs to join Rubble at the 5th bolt. As for Rubble, there is no anchor so just jump off. | 12m, 7 | |||
26/27 | |||||
Jane Fonda Workout Wall | |||||
26/27 | ★★★ Tantra
FA: Martyn Clarke, 1995 | 28m, 11 | |||
26/27 | ★★ Joint Enterprise
Originally graded 25, sources now say this line is 27. Regardless of the grade, it climbs good quality stone up an arête to a ledge rest, then a thin slab headwall crux. Quite nice! FA: Roland Foster, 2016 | 29m, 11 | |||
Britten Crag The Alcove | |||||
26/27 | ★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000 | 15m, 5 | |||
V6 | |||||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V6 | ★ Pin Scars
Starts on the left side of the left wall. Sit start directly beneath the cleaned out runnel feature. Pull on and make a couple of hard moves on minuscule crimps, gain the sloping rail/arête, then finish on the big sloper jug. | ||||
V6 | ★★ Such A Sandbag
Climbs straight up the middle of the left hand wall. Sit start with hands on the undercling and the ball hold. Make a big move over the lip, then tricky face climbing to the top. Finish on the big slopey jug. | ||||
V6 | ★ Left Wall Low Traverse (Right to Left)
Start on the left wall just past Risk Vs Reward. Sit start on a rock with hands matched on the slopey rail. Traverse low all the way left to finish in the horizontal slots. | ||||
V6 | ★ Sloper Groper
Squat start near the middle of the cave on the big glued sloper. Make a couple of powerful moves with the RH, then move up and right to finish on the leftward sloping jug (heinous top out optional). | ||||
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Meteorite Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Lunar Launch
Stand start left of Summer Moon with LH on slopey sidepull dish, RH low on the half moon crimp of Summer Moon. Slap RH to sloper at head height then launch to lip. Sit start is possible but will be hard. FA: David Jefferson, 20 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
Halfcar | |||||
V6 | ★ V6
Sit start on the jug below the roof and move up via pinches and crimps. | ||||
V6 | Growth Spurt
Sit start as for 'Always Crashing in the Same Car' traverse along the lip but exist lower and later, after some spicy moves finish as for 'Halfling' | 4m | |||
V6 | Melon Balls
Stand start on the jug and fight the increasing difficulty all the way up to the lip. | 4m | |||
V6 | Halfling
Stand start on teeny tiny holds and a heel on the mega jug. Apply some zest and finish up less challenging terrain. | 4m | |||
Bridle Path Boulders | |||||
V6 | ★★ The Trans-Siberian Railway | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ Dab on the swing
Start left hand on rail and right hand on lower sloper. Dynamic move to V-groove sloper and up arete. FA: Owain Scullion (OwainS), 25 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V6 | Sauron Roof | 7m | |||
26 | |||||
Transmitter Crag Closed The Goat Cave | |||||
26 | ★★ Butterfly
Start four metres right and follow a right-trending seam. FFA: Max Farr, 1999 | 3 | |||
26 | Psychical Graffiti
Set: Jon Sedon FFA: Troy Mattingley, 2008 | 5 | |||
Three Sisters The Twisted Sister | |||||
26 | ★ Ongaphile
FA: Roland Foster, 1996 | 16m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Deja Jeux
The choice line of the cave. Start near the far left side of the overhang. Powerful moves right off the deck set the tone for a gymnastic and surprisingly technical route. Finish up the lichenous face after surmounting the last of several roofs. FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | Palm Pilot
FA: Tony Burnell | 7 | |||
Mount Pleasant Right Cliff | |||||
26 | ★★ Gruse Power
FA: Dave Fearnley, 1983 | 14m | |||
Lyttelton Rock Ataturk Wall | |||||
26 | Michael Karnick Mystery
FA: Michael Karnick, 2010 | ||||
26 | ★★ Bridging Over Lyttelton
FA: Rod Newburn, 1996 | ||||
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome | |||||
26 | ★ Powerless Creatures
An easier variant start to 'Creatures of Power' Start in the corner right of the aforementioned route and boulder your way up through 3 bolts and turn the lip off the roof. From here, join 'CoP' and finish as for that route. NB This is not the route's original name, which appears to have been lost to time. FA: Michael Karnick, 2010 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ The Power of Khan
Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then traverse left across Creatures of Power to finish up Kublai Khan. | 6 | |||
26 | ★ Swine Fever
Start as for Mysterious Swine Disease. At the second bolt, instead of breaking out left, continue straight up over the roof and into a right facing corner. Surmount another roof to reach easy ground and the anchor. FA: Tony Burnell | 11m, 5 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Mr Clean Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Citizen Four
Start just right of Citizen Kane at the obvious fridge feature. Yes, it is possible to climb into the corner right of the bolt line for 24 points, but the better option is to take the direct line up the fridge, as intended. Some creative beta leads to better holds above the second bolt, to an easier but pumpy finish. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018 | 19m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ Fillet of Arnold
The line of 4 bolts immediately right of the Scratching Julius crack. Boulder up to the top of the shield feature, where you will find consistently engaging climbing all the way to the anchors, on some of the best rock in the Port Hills. This route is safely bolted, but prepare for air time if you come off! FA: Ton Snelder, 1989 | 19m, 4 | |||
26 | ★ Drop The Bomb
Climbs the corner just above the track, immediately left of Dr Strangelove. Originally attacked the corner directly, but broken holds necessitate traversing in from the left. 2 bolts and gear for the cracks above. FA: Dave Fearnley, 1987 | 18m, 2 | |||
Jane Fonda Workout Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Melting Point Direct
FA: Tony Burnell, 1998 | 30m, 10 | |||
26 | ★★ Triple Point
FA: Sefton Priestly, Apr 2018 | 18m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Flock To The Rock
FA: Dave Fearnley, 1988 | 20m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Lard Of The Thighs
FA: Tony Burnell, 1996 | 26m, 7 | |||
Farm Park Black Wall & Left Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Dark Horizon
Start beneath the overhang left of Dark Lands. Climb up and right, then angle out left until you can span between the crack and the blunt arête on the right. At the old carriage bolt, move slightly right and ascend on glued crimps. FA: Derek Thatcher, Dec 2021 | 5 | |||
Farm Park Flax Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Old Dog
A boulder problem with dynamic movement under the first roof leads into a harder than expected corner. Turn the second roof and ascend the lichenous head wall to the anchors. FA: Tony Burnell, 2017 | 6 | |||
26 | Core Problem
FA: Tony Burnell, Jan 2023 | ||||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Keep | |||||
26 | ★ Fangs
Start up Reincarnation to 1st bolt and then traverse across right on the "fangs" to the arête. The route finishes there but can be linked into Hang on Man. FA: Greg Jack, 2018 | ||||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Corbels | |||||
26 | ★ Cave Route
FA: Ton Snelder & Dave Fearnley, 1984 | 12m, 1 | |||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Blackboard | |||||
26 | Bush Telegraph
| ||||
Britten Crag Yellow Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Yellow Peril
FA: Tony Burnell, 2001 | 7 | |||
Britten Crag The Alcove | |||||
26 | ★★ Wall Street Crumble
Another couple of metres right with even more glued holds. Good moves though. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2001 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ Sport for All
FA: Tony Burnell | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Hunting Wombats in Silence
Climb Great White to the last bolt, then traverse left to link into the top of Silence of the Wombats for its last bolt. Really just a variant finish, but fun nonetheless. | 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Hushpuppy Hitched
Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts FA: Pere Logan, 2000 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ Yorkshire G(r)it
A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route. FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Nor' West Arch
Start as for Tropical Storm, but at its third bolt, hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof to join Skunk 2, and lower off its third bolt. FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000 | 15m, 8 | |||
Britten Crag The Shelf | |||||
26 | ★ Bliss
Powerful moves through the roof left of The Big C. FA: Tony Burnell, 2001 | 7m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ Shelfish Pursuit
A bolted boulder problem that climbs through the roof left of Footloose. A stout sequence right off the deck leads to good holds. Traverse into Footloose past the 3rd bolt. FA: David Jefferson, 1 Nov 2022 | 15m, 4 | |||
The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows | |||||
26 | ★★ Carl’s Car Wash
Start left of the capped corner directly under the roof. Surmount this on small crimps, then move slightly right after the third bolt, then back left again. Finish up the obvious white groove. FA: Owen Davies, Jan 2022 | 15m, 7 | |||
26 | ★ Game of Stones
FA: Tony Burnell, Jan 2022 | 15m, 5 | |||
Bivvy Rock | |||||
26 | ★ Slip Of The Tongue
FA: Owen Davies, 2022 | 20m | |||
Barnett Park Leech Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Earned
FA: Richard Kimberley, 2001 | 10 | |||
26 | ★★ Ripped Like Elvis
FA: John McCallum, 1993 | 5 | |||
26 | ★ Gorgonzola
Start on the pillar between Gorgon and 50/50. Climb past a thin section past 3 bolts, then link into the top of Gorgon. FA: David Jefferson, 17 Mar | 18m, 5 | |||
Barnett Park The Great Wall | |||||
26 | The Frumious Bandasnatch
The rightmost route on the Great Wall. Scramble up to the ledge with bulbous features and very chossy rock to clip first two bolts. From here, blast through the overhang with bouldery sequences and improving rock quality to an anchor over the lip. FA: Jarod Alexander, Nov 2014 | 6 | |||
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
26 | ★ Ice-Man
Start as for Attack Mode. After the initial boulder problem, angle right and climb straight through the roof. FA: Alex Palman, 1998 | 13m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Urge
Unsafe to climb since the earthquakes as a huge block is loose above the start. FA: Brian Alder, 1993 | ||||
26 | ★ Grumble
Climb Gorilla Grip to its 5th bolt then break left across the obvious rail to join the top of Rubble. | 7 | |||
26 | ★ Rubble Grip
Climb Rubble to its last bolt then head right to the chain of Gorilla Grip, then top out. | 6 | |||
26 | ★ Rubble
The line of bolts immediately to the left of Gorilla Grip. Ascend to a distinct crux above the 3rd bolt, then continue up to top out through a slot left of the bolt line. Jump off. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2004 | 14m, 6 | |||
26 | ★ Super Glue
Start at the extreme left side of the cave and commence traversing right on jugs. At the 4th bolt, head straight up on the glued crimps, finishing at the lip of the cave. Significantly harder after losing a crucial jug. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998 | ||||
25/26 | |||||
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome | |||||
25/26 | ★ Gone Bimbo Direct Finish
Climb the standard version of Gone Bimbo, but at the first permadraw on the traverse, instead of continuing right go straight through the roof on good holds to finish at a separate anchor. Using the original (low) beta to get established on the traverse gets you 26 points, whilst the new (high) beta only warrants 25. FA: Peter Carter, 1990 | 12m, 5 | |||
Bivvy Rock | |||||
25/26 | ★ 4X
Start as for ‘XX’, after staple 3 step L into a short black groove, go up the groove & across the slab to the roof below the central groove, hard moves into & out of the groove to land on a ledge with an old lower off. FA: Tony Burnell, 10 Apr 2022 | 18m, 6 | |||
V5 | |||||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V5 | Purity | ||||
V5 | ★ Six Different Ways to Please Your Lover
Start low on the good hold used for Cramp (higher than Cramp's undercling start). Make a big move left to join Sloper Groper, then continue left until you can join Mr Miyagi and finish as for this problem. | ||||
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Meteorite Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Bandidos Sit
SS on the squared hold and break on the arete then throw right hand up to join ‘Bandidos Low’. FA: Thibaut, 29 Sep 2023 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Dame Más Gasolina
SS left hand side pull and right hand on the slopey arete. Good edge for left foot and right heel around the corner. Throw left or right hand up to reach the starting slopey crimp of 'Gasolina'. FA: Thibaut, 10 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Rings of Smoke Through the Trees
Start as for 'Yellow Desert Stream' then traverse left all the way to the end on the obvious line of bad slopers, eliminating the lip the entire way. FA: Thibaut, 29 Sep 2023 | 4m | |||
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Fence Side Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Mistakes Left Exit
Start as per 'Mistakes of Cowardice' but exit left onto the slab after the crux move to the arete. FA: Thibaut, 11 Feb | 3m | |||
V5 | Mistakes of Cowardice
SS on the good right hand side pull and the bad slopper on the left face, tiptoeing on small feet. Big left-hand move to a slopper on the arete then mantle finish. FA: Thibaut, 28 Jan | 3m | |||
Halfcar | |||||
V5 | ★ Right Side V5
Sit start with your toes at the back of the cave. Perform knee-bar wizardry to surmount the lip and crimp to glory. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Always Crashing in the Same Car
It's what you came for. Sit start in the depths of the cave on two good holds. Ride the ledge all the way along until you can head up the arete. FA: Scott Jury, 2019 | 8m |