Nodes in East Queenstown

Easy to access crags.

Moments walk from the road this crag consists of excellent climbing on well featured schist.

First wall accessed at ground level

20m right of the previous route, the obvious wide corner crack

Excellent climbing on well-featured schist on routes between about 15 and 50 metres.

Straight up the black face

Start as for Carrottophrenia or just scramble up the gully to the right and then up the right line. Very nice climbing the whole way.

Bolted corner crack left of Tel Aviv Express.

The obvious arete

P1 steep and short to ledge. P2 continues steeply.

Climb through a funky flake on bad feet all the way up. Powerful dynos onto crimps at the roof. Can access the top to work the problem.

Best climbed in 2 pitches.

The direct start (from below the ledge) is a grade 18 and adds about 3m.

P1 - 15 - 12m - 7 bolts (or 18/15/8 for the direct start)

P2 - 17 - 15m - 5 bolts

The rightmost route. There's a weird alternate start to this with a line of two bolts about halfway between this and Cliptomania. Ignore those and climb the well featured black rock.

A grubby crag with two routes (hangers have been removed from the third route in the guidebook)

A small wall that packs a lot of punch and well worth the extra few minutes walk.

Traverse left on ledge. Take your pick of dirt or rock for the walk. Clip a bolt on the way. Eventually reach the obvious left arete and climb it.

Easy and fun climbing to a ledge followed by a challenging crux which is probably a little harder than the stated grade.

A steep and burly start leads to outstanding climbing on positive holds

The highest concentration of quality climbing at Gorge Road.

Tenuous. Choose your medicine.

Unrelenting mixed line.

First bolted route right of Beaten into Submission.

Climb the first 2 bolts of Hapu Crack, gain the face on crimps for 2 more bolts to gain a ledge for an exciting finish

Right-leaning crack

Finishes left to Hapu Crack or to Suicide Possum

Slopey first bolt. Enjoyable prow above.

Well-rounded climb.

A roadside crag with endless slopers.

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Could not locate the bolts for this climb. Possibly gone?

Quite overgrown now, with a significant tree in front of the first bolt, and a lot of moss above.

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Start up ladder in my stocking and take the leftmost route through the roof

Start up ladder in my stocking and veer left at the 3rd bolt

The obvious easy face

A death start (stick clip) then up a roof. Tenuous climbing unless you're a gun on slopers.

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Delicate climbing to first bolt then follow the beautiful crack

Tough for the grade

Great climbing on the right face through steep arete.

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Left side of the slab

Apparently the first 2 bolts have been removed. A direct start to Liquid Smoke that rejoins the route at bolt 3.

Very tenuous climbing using the right arete.

A classic Kiwi sandbag

Follow Mall Rats to the 2nd bolt and then head left and up the crack

Climb the hollow pillar - Check out the hole on your way!

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Best avoided in Winter due to the road traffic to Coronet Peak

Some cool climbs in an awesome location

The lower tier is spread out over a few different faces, with the story of impossible being a lot lower down than the leaning tower

A bit overgrown

A bit overgrown

A bit overgrown

A bit overgrown

A small face just below leaning tower

A bit overgrown

A bit overgrown

The main wall you first see when entering crag

A bit overgrown

A bit overgrown