Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | |||||||
21 | ★★ Aretenaphobia | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||
18 | ★ Nasal Excavations | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Mar 2020 | |||
Nice pockets for a change
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18 | ★ Slightly English - with Kateřina Železná | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||
Nice
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18 | ★ Slightly English | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Roadside Area Al Cove | |||||||
21 | ★ Reefer Madness | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
Surprisingly nice and hard
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20 | ★ Cunning Linguistics | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | Wed 18th Mar 2020 | |||
Nice crack climbing with a roof finish
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26 | ★★ Huha | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Mar 2020 | |||
Excellent balancy crimpy short but sustained climb. 2 sessions, 5 goes.
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25 | ★★ Bob the Builder | 12m, 4 | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | ||||
3rd go, soft 25
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23 | ★★ Roche Moutonnee | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
Easy but for one long powerful move at the end. All good holds though.
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23 22 | ★★ Ferocious Weasel | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
Nice climb with harder overhang
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19 | ★★ Chinese Hospitality | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
Second half is nice
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22 | ★★ The Colonel's Secret | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | |||
The hand jam is awesome
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23 | ★★ Where's Dr Holdfinder? | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
Balancy, technical, awesome. Would have been a nice OS if my foot hadn't slipped :-/
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18 | ★ Ole | 15m, 6 | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | ||||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Roadside Area Farside | |||||||
17 | ★ Chairman Ed | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | |||
bolted
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18 | ★★ Jock the Frotterer | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
Really nice and quite easy 18
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19 | ★★ In Flagrante Dilecto - with Kateřina Železná | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
Very nice
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17 | ★★ Girl Trouble | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
Good jugs all the way, 18 in the guide
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21 | ★★ Back to Terra Firma | 20m, 6 | Average | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | |||
20 in the guidbook, 22 according to locals. Indeed quite hard and not even very nice climbing in the second half.
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23 | ★★ Land of Milk and Honeys (?) | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
First half is fun and easy, second half is a bit harder with one noticable crux move.
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
19 | ★ Cryptology - with Kateřina Železná | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
Nice moves
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Terrain Spotting - with Kateřina Železná | 20m, 6 | Average | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
18 | ★★ Te Whanau | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||
Interesting climb. Hard technical 18.
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17 | ★ Get Kerfuffled | 20m, 8 | Don't Bother | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||
Not too enjoable arete tour
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ You Crack Me Up | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
23 | ★★★ Jack Be Nimble | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
On of the best routes I've climbed in my life. Soft 23.
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23 | ★★ Anti Walk Device | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
Nice but tricky finish and I was wrecked already
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25 | ★★★ Lollapalooza | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||
That roof is really hard
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25 | ★★★ Lollapalooza | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
24 | ★★ The Engorger | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||
So close to OS and yet so far
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24 | ★★ The Engorger | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
4th go and still quite unsure about clipping the 7th draw
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24 | ★ Hasta Luego | 19m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
2nd go to the top but two more attempts at the bottom. Cunning
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22 | ★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll - with Kateřina Železná | 19m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||
Nice, reachy crimpy moves. More than a good warmup.
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Diamond Lake Diamond Slab | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Naked on the Neve | 40m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | |||
Beautiful long climb. The second pitch is even nicer than the first one.
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Diamond Lake Pencil Dick Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ Grazon Against Wooly Wullens | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | |||
Next time
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22 | ★★ Wet Winkle | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | |||
Keep right and aim for the pocket at 3rd bolt.
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Bakehouse | |||||||
23 | ★ Seam Stress | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Mar 2020 | |||
Great, two-hard-moves route. Didn't go for the dyno straigh on the first attempt, such a shame, should have been OS
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21 18 | ★ The Meat in the Middle | 15m, 4 | Don't Bother | Fri 13th Mar 2020 | |||
More like a 21 with a really uncomfortable finish
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17 | ★ Groover - with Kateřina Železná | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | |||
Beautiful for this grade.
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17 | ★★ Stealing Candy From a Baby | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Mar 2020 | |||
You don't get as many 17s as good as this one
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Falcon Steep Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Falcon Steep | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
Got lost during the first attempt. Follow the bolt line!
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Office | |||||||
25 24 | ★★ Hope Springs Eternal (Hope Springs Eternal (Mad Men)) | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
Made the whole route OS but couldn't clip the last permadraw. Soft 25
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Cutting | |||||||
21 | ★★ Labour Only | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Didn't keep right at the beginning and neede to go again
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18 | ★★ Drying Out | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Suprisingly beautiful
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17 | ★ I Thought I Had Her | 20m, 6 | Average | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
God I hate slabs
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Sunnyside | |||||||
19 | ★★ Winners and Losers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd May 2020 | |||
Classic for the grade I guess
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25 | ★★★ Mental As Anything | 21m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | |||
25 as it shold be. 4 goes.
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17 | ★ Bella Linguini | 19m, 4 | ★ Good | Thu 6th Feb 2020 | |||
slab, crack and crimpy traverse. Quite a lot of fun for a 17.
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22 | ★★ Shark Chirac | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Feb 2020 | |||
Great climb
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22 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd May 2020 | |||
Great
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23 | ★★ Creepy Crawler | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Feb 2020 | |||
Reaaly long move above the bulge
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20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Powery
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23 | ★★ Mean Streak | 10m, 3 | Fri 22nd May 2020 | ||||
Hmm how to solve this one efficiently?
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17 | ★★ El Niño (El Nino) | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Pretty cool arete
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22 | ★★ The Bastard of Cleardale | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Route so great I rather did it twice
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23 | ★★ Suck the Kumara | 19m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | |||
One star climbing at a three star spot
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Conservatory | |||||||
19 | ★ Sharp Shooter (??) | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jun 2020 | |||
Good fun
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20 22 | ★ Short Sharp Shock (?) | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 4th Jun 2020 | |||
21 | ★ Slap on the Face | 15m, 4 | Average | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||
Surprisingly hard
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23 | ★ A Long Time Coming | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||
Easy. Almost too easy but beautiful
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23 | ★ A Long Time Coming | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||
Easy. Almost too easy but beautiful
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20 | ★★ Showtime | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||
Nice exposed little roof
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16 | ★★ Sweet Sixteen | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||
Nice
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25 | ★ Dead Line | 15m | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | ||||
That was not good at all :-D Tiny marked cripms on the chossy rock didn't help too much. No need to try this one again.
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Hangover | |||||||
21 | ★★ Ed the Protester | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
Great. This route has it all.
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22 | ★★ Fur Breath | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
Great thin face climbing. The crux feels more 23ish and isn't easy to solve on the first go.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Edition | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
Awesome route, easy for the grade
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25 | Under the Table | 10m, 5 | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | ||||
Attempted to climb as an extension of English Hose but the rope drag is way too much -> Retreated.
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22 | ★ English Hose | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
Powerful crack
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lunge Starter | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||
Easy except for the dyno at the end. Have to come back, great route.
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20 | ★★ Disco Inferno | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||
18 | ★ Rusty Pins - with Kateřina Železná | 15m, 6 | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | ||||
17 | ★ Fingers Columbia - with Kateřina Železná | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | |||
Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Little Big Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Little Big Bloke | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Mar 2020 | |||
Great climb. Would have been OS but I got lost and joined the climb next to it (not in the guidbook but supposingly very hard)
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16 | ★★ Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out - with Kateřina Železná | 45m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Mar 2020 | |||
Easy but adventurous (for a regular sport climber)
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Cattle Yard West Face | |||||||
24 | ★★ Schistose Intolerance | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
Crimpy and slopery above the overhang
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18 | ★★ Gorillas in the Schist | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
True classic 18. Considerable runouts
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Mount Iron Iron Curtain | |||||||
19 | ★ Pitchin' & Moanin' | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Dec 2019 | |||
Grat warmup
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27 | ★★ Red Gecko | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Mar 2020 | |||
got up twice before the lockdown started. not clean at all but still makes me happy
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17 | ★ Spanking the Kat - with Kateřina Železná | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Fri 13th Dec 2019 | |||
24 | ★★ Solid Energy (Mystery 24) | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Jan 2020 | |||
2nd go after studying the Crux at the top.
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26 | ★★ Right Bastard | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
Clean to the last bolt from the 2nd go onwards. The last few moves are evil, though.
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26 | ★★ Right Bastard | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Mar 2020 | |||
Such an epic route with a no-hand in the middle before the final crux. Great for watching the sunset on the mountains
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25 | ★★ Mezzanine | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
25 | ★★ Mezzanine | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
No one bothers to go to the chains (the finish is easy and the rope drag is awful). Go to the last permadraw (and try to do two more moves up)
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22 | ★★ I May Be Old But At Least I'm Crusty | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Dec 2019 | |||
Awesome, pumpy.
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24 | ★★ The Bastard from Gunn Rd | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Dec 2019 | |||
Bloody hard 24
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Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Mount Iron Ironside | |||||||
20 | ★ Out There on the Edge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Jan 2020 | |||
Great climb
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20 | ★ Out There on the Edge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | |||
22 | ★★ Iron Maiden (Iron Maiden(j)) | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Dec 2019 | |||
Great climb. OS to the last bolt then ran out of power.
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22 | ★★ Iron Maiden | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Jan 2020 | |||
Not the easiest 22 around
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23 | ★★ Steelworks | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Jan 2020 | |||
23 | ★★ Steelworks | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | |||
3rd go. Quite a hard Crux for 23
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25 | ★★ Irony | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
25 | ★★ Irony | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | |||
needed to learn the moves really well in this one. great finish
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24 | ★ The Free Mantle (The Free Mantle Extended Remix) | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | |||
Great route, hard crimps and runout slab at the end
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24 | ★ The Free Mantle (The Free Mantle Extended Remix) | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
2nd go
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23 | ★ Easily the Best Route on the Crag | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | Mon 10th Feb 2020 | |||
Not as bad as it looks
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20 | ★ Sonique (Sonic) | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | Thu 5th Dec 2019 | |||
Really hard move over the bulge (above the permadraw)
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20 | ★ Sonique (Sonic) | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | Sat 21st Dec 2019 |