Routes as sport in Tairua Crag

Right-most bolted line of the main wall, under a huge white roof system. Technical climbing with a steep start. Easiest to clean by top-belaying a second. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line.

Open project - probably 30/31 in grade. The bolted route on the impressive overhanging arête.

Start up the slabs broken by 2 small overhangs (cruxes). Then up the short headwall to a chain belay on Lover's ledge. This was the first route at Tairua and was climbed ground up on the first reccie to the crag. It has since been bolted in order to create a friendly access route.

“Peace be upon you”. Cliff: I re-named this climb following the Christchurch Terrorist attack. It is probably the best climb I have helped put up and is in a very peaceful and beautiful part of NZ, a fitting tribute to all those Kiwis and visitors that lost their lives. As with all climbing at Tairua, this route is the combination of many climbers' efforts, thanks to you all, we are one, Kia Kaha.

1. (19) – Are We Tramping Yet?

2. (22) - Dirty Hairy Frenchman.

3. (20) Transfer to the belay in the middle of the “Living Room Ledge” located on the south side of the middle bollard. From here traverse right slinging one of the large bollards, then drop down and traverse right along a ledge system for about 15m past 4 bolts to a stance, optional belay (recommended for reducing rope drag). From here head straight up the groove then move back left and climb the bollard (wild). Once level with bushy ledge, traverse left back to a DBC belay. An absolutely stunning heart in your mouth pitch. 10 bolts.

4. (20). Hard moves off the ledge then straight up groove,sustained climbing before angle eases up past 5th bolt then continue up to low angled ramp and DBC belay. 8 bolts.

5. (19)– Climb the headwall following the right-trending groove and corner, trickier than it looks. At the 7th bolt move right, across the slab to the DBC belay of Daylight Dilemma. 8 bolts.

6. (18) 6th pitch of Daylight Dilemma.

7. (20) Top pitch of Daylight Dilemma.

Descent: Abseil back down the route. Clip the chain on the top bolt on the 5th pitch and abseil off the left-hand side of the 3rd pitch ledge. You will also need two ropes to abseil off the Living Room ledge. Alternatively abseil down the line of Daylight Dilemma.

2nd tier. Starts from the anchors at the top of Not here to F*** Spiders (far right side of Lover's Ledge). Rad moves out right lead to a stiff crux sequence into a cave. Top out on the enormous Living Room Ledge. 7 Bolts.

NOTE: Falling off the crux of this route can leave you hanging in space. Make sure you know how to ascend a rope!

Descent: Either rap back down route (difficult), or climb up onto the Alien Head and rap off the Space Ape anchor back to Lover's Ledge. Alternatively it is a 50m rap to the ground from the Living Room Ledge.

Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape.

Absolutely wild! Start at the same bolt as Coitus Interruptus but then trend right up the delicate slab before traversing right over ledges to the steeply overhung alien feature. Take a deep breath before launching up the inside of this outrageous feature. Clip the green thread before you mantle out. DBC belay.

Note: There is an anchor on the ledge in the middle of the route, this is the top of Boulderer's Day Off. You can stop here to split the route into 2 pitches.

The pitch starting from the alien head. Great climbing on perfect rock. Climb Space Ape or Dirty Hairy Frenchmen to access.

This is the Tairua classic!

Pitch 1 (19) – Are we Tramping

Pitch 2 (22) 20m Climb easy honeycombed rock to the 2nd bolt,then power through the crux which consists of a series of good underclings with long reaches to small slopey edges.

Pitch 3 (18) 20m Delightful stemming up the steep corner to the large chickenhead visible from below. Can be done as one long pitch or two short pitches at 22/18.

Pitch 4 (26)15m. Up thru scoop and then consistently hard moves to the anchor.

Pitch 5 (21) 30m . Nice moves on good rock to bushy ledge.

Pitch 6 (16) 30m Up slabby ground to rap station just below bushline.

Pitch 1 to 3 Greg Kolbe; Edwin Sheppard Nov 2017

Pitch 4 to 6 Edwin Sheppard, Max Nov 2020

Up the steep bolted line starting a few metres to the right of Jam. Staunch climbing with a sting in the tail.

Easier finish to Home Again. Traverse up and right before Home Again's final steep section to the first pitch's anchor of Kapowai Calling.

Starts on the block just left of Kapowai Calling, on the edge of the large gully that splits the face. Nice grade 17/18 moves up to the crux up the small crack at the top. Generously bolted to make for a comfortable lead. 11 bolts.

More fixed ropes lead up and left from 'Five Legged Goat'. 'El pollo loco' starts on a small ledge with two chains.

1. (45m) Clip the two sets of chains and climb the tree, then move right. Two more bolts will bring you to a DBC. Either belay here to reduce drag or continue traversing right before heading up. ~16 bolts if you opt to do it in one pitch.

2. Take an excursion to the right and back left after the 4th bolt. Then up into the chicken heads and a slab.

3. A steep section followed by slab.

Descent: A 60m rope will suffice. There is a rappel anchor at the right end of the P1 traverse. ~25 more meters from here brings you back to the access track.