Routes as trad in Coromandel Peninsula

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.

Starts below and right of 'That Summer/Shiny Goblins'. Originally climbed as 2 pitches, the numerous old pitons were replaced by bolts in 2021 and now generally done in 1 long pitch. At the ledge below Shiny Goblins is a single bolt to protect the belayer. From here climb easily up the slab with a mixture of bolts and trad gear. Get into the groove above and protect the crux with good small gear. Continue up the groove until it blanks out where a move left onto a ledge shared with 'Shiny Goblins' can be made. Go staight up the short arete and to the belay rings on the right.

From the Gambatagwa belay bolt continue on the ledge until you are left of the large triangular overhang. Climb up and slanting right, turning the overhang on the left. Follow the crack until a move right can be made to a small ledge. Bolted belay here. The second pitch needs cleaning...

Start just below the rib on the left of the cliff. You will see a rusty piton right above you. Follow the line of least resistance which will lead you left into a small belay cave with a couple bolts. From there it is straight up to the top. Initially climbed as two pithes but cam be climbed as one without much rope drag.

Beta warning: Bring runners to sling large holes in the rock, other protection is sparse and mainly consists of wires. Rap down using the large pine at the top. Note this tree may no longer exist and have fallen down.

About 8m down and right of Bishop's Rib. [1] Up the V-groove with an obvious small tree in it (that's your protection). Step right to the rib then up to belay tree and ledge. [2] Climb the wall below the flake, then step right and up the rib to ledges and trees.

Begin betweem Flytrap and Mantrap then move left to the grooves betweem Flytrap and Bishop's Rib. [1]Up the wall to the left of the flake, then the V-groove above. Traverse left above the overhang to join the rib of Flytrap. [2] Left from the belay and up the groove on the left, left through a white streak past a very old peg. Out to the rib on the right and up an open-book corner and the wall above (crux). Move left into the top of Bishop's Rib. Descend down Bishop's Rib.

Climb the flake and shallow groove past an old peg to a tree belay. Or climb the groove from the right. [2] Step right from the belay and climb the wall left of the nose to gain a small ledge. Move left and up to belay ledges. [3] Traverse right and up a bushy groove, move out onto the rib and climb it to a ledge and tree belay.

Pitch 1 (16) 45m . From the belay clip the bolt then climb to ledge above. Clip the 2nd bolt then climb the 1st over hang. Climb arête above on trad till you reach the 2nd overhang. 2 bolts get you through this onto the long sweeping arête. Climb this on trad till you meet the lines of Fe Fi Fo Fum and Sleeping Boys. Climb arête on 3 bolts to the top pitch and the belay of Sleeping Boys. 6 Bolts + Trad.

Pitch 2 (15) 25m. Climb the top pitch of Sleeping Boys.

1st pitch sport with 5 bolts to DBB

A wildly overhanging, left-leaning hand crack! Rope stretcher - use a 70m rope or tie knots in your 60m. Located at the far left-hand side of the crag, up the access ramp with a white fixed rope. Start up the block just left of the main crack, placing a good cam off the ground to protect the start moves. Span across to the main crack and then blast upwards. The crux is hand jams.

Rack: Single rack of wires and small cams, double rack of cams from #0.4 -#3,one #4. Hexes work great too! Make sure you keep a #.5 and a #.75 camalot for the top section where the gear options get a bit limited.

The best route at Tairua? Follows a giant crack/chimney up the left side of the large central gully which splits the buttress. The first two and a half pitches were climbed ground-up on trad, but there is now a couple of bolts at the crux on the first pitch. Every pitch of this route is worth doing in its own right... no boring bits! Note the hardest moves (3rd pitch) are on bolts. All anchors are bolted.

1. (22) Slabby left-hand rising traverse leads to crux protected by two bolts, then power up corner to the first belay.

2. (19) A lovely hand crack turns into a layback / off-width, this pitch is awesome, bring big cams (could even use a no. 6 Camalot! Note the thrutchy crux is run out ~7m if you do not have anything bigger than a #4 camalot.

3. (23) Continue up the corner system on good gear until it runs out and you hit bolts halfway up the pitch. Try to find a bit of a rest before you hit a challenging sport crux (hard 23). Mantle out to the belay.

4. (20) Follow the bolts up the shallow corner and then traverse right to the steep but juggy arete. Some small holds bring you back left to the belay on a bushy ledge.

5. (18) Pure fun! Up the short wall with awesome features, mantle over onto a low-angle friction slab leading to the anchor a few metres below the bush line.

Rack: Doubles to #4, one #5 or #6.

Descent: Great rap line - all pitches are less than 30m so it can be done with a single 60m rope. Every rap leads you directly down to the previous belay, except for the first anchor which is slightly right of the rap line but is easy to swing across to.

1. 25m (21) Up crackline with steep groove to stainless chain belay. Trad.

2. 25m (19) Follow crack up and boldly left around the arete to a series of caves, continue climbing up and left past two bolts and a two hanger belay in a small cave to a spacious belay cave with a chain anchor. Trad and 2 bolts.

3. 30m (23) Up past three bolts on funky featured rock to, then undercling right to gain an impressive corner crack. Trad and 3 bolts.

4. 30m (20) Up steep face and ledges. 9 bolts.

5. 25m (17) Up short, steep groove to slab. 6 bolts.

Rack: Wires and double camalots to #3 and a #4.

Cranky moves off the deck to a couple of okay placements, then straight up the steep groove (crux). It really helps if you know how to jam! Stay right after the ledge and cruise up the wide crack toward the belay on the right. Rack: Double rack of cams to #3, one #4 and #5.

A moderately technical first crux leads to a narrow bombay chimney. Jam a #4 or #5 camalot over your head and then squeeze, wiggle,grind and grunt your way through an overhanging off-width to a well-deserved rest. Make sure you keep a few medium cams for the top section and mind your rope doesn't get stuck in a groove as you descend. Trad: Double rack to #3 plus a #4 or #5.

You will need a very special set of skills for this route. Suitable for caver/crack climber hybrids that like running it out on gear. This is a roof crack that is usually running with water but occasionally dries out in summer. Extreme quantities of dirt add to the experience. If it is ever cleaned it might lose a grade or two. Enjoy!

Start as for Home Again, before splitting off at half height following crack trending up and left. At the chocked block bust out left to flake feature before moving up to another chock (novel #4 camalot placement here). Sustained climbing follows with just enough gear to keep you going before joining Kapowai Calling at the bolt at the end of its second pitch.

Rack: wires, full set of cams to #4, doubles #0.3-1. Save the #0.75s to place after each chock.

Note: FA was on trad before Home Again was bolted.

This used to climb the crack as for Shadowfax first pitch and continue up ledges for 2 further pitches to the top.

Climb past piton to good crack. The crack leads to ledge with bolts and old pitons.

Starts 20m left of the other Skyline Buttress climbs. Climb into the scoop below and right of the hanging fang. Not much gear till the fang. Climb around to the left of the overhang and up the cracks to rings at the second ledge. A set of wires and cams to #4 is useful.

A bit winding and overgrown but still a fun outing that can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. Climb the left leaning corner for 10m before making a traverse left around a corner. There is an old rusty piton above to show the way up the wall to a belay (small trees) below the overhangs. Traverse right to the large ledge common with Shelob and then up from the left end of the ledge to the large sloping ledge and bolt belay.

Climb the first 10m of Windfall but carry on directly up at the first bolt on the face to the right of the shallow corner. Nice moves lead to the good ledge. Climb past 2 bolts through a steep section between Shelob and Windfall to the rings.

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

This route routes breaks through the overhang above the pipeline at the last bend before the bridge. Aid the overhang using 2 bolts. Once a second overhang is reached climb directly up on good gear. Follow grooves and slabs by the easiest line until you can move left onto a ledge. This is shared with the top of the second pitch of Berkeley Square.

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees.

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is an unpleasant dirty route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the iron spike and continue in the groove, digging out gear placements as you go. Join Shadowlands belay ledge. Used to be aided past the spike (14/A1) and continued to the top of the cliff. May be harder than the grade depending on how dirty it is.

Starting upstream from the bridge, almost at water level on a blocky buttress. Climb 8m to loose ledges. Head up the groove above past a peg (crux) until you can step right onto the rib. Climb easy ground to the top. Descend back down bushy gully on the right until a sing abseil will reach the ground. This description is old and needs updating.

The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating.

P1: Climb the rib from the bottom, until a small belay ledge on the right is reached. P2: Step left and climb steep wall to good ledges (10m). Either abseil or continue up through bush to the track above. This description is old and needs updating.

A low-level traverse from Sentinel to the bridge. May need to be rediscovered, cleaned and graded. This description needs updating.

The rib directly behind 'The Shield' wall P1: Ascend the rib to the pine tree. P2: From the tree climb the rib right to bushier but easier ground. Descend the gully on the left. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The steep wall over-looking the gully between the Shield and Prelude provides a most delightful moderate route, Find the single jug at the foot of the wall and follow good holds to the top, finishing near the top of Back of Beyond. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The rib at the top of the gully between the Shield and Prelude. It is difficult to arrange a good belay at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Climbs the left hand end of the buttress. Climb crack up to small tree. Step right onto rib and continue onto face of buttress to a small ledge. Continue up rib to good belay ledge. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Starts at the base of the overhanging rib a few meters right of Steerpike. Climb the rib direct. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

This route is found above 'Steerpike'. Climb the left hand crack up through a notch at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

A long rib climb set behind the Steer Pike, right of Shield and Back of Beyond. P1: Start left of rib, move onto rib and continue to foot of steep section. Climb onto small ledge then sloping ledge above, continue up through small groove to belay ledges. P2 starts after a short bush bash. P2: Bridge the groove and pull through the bulge (crux), move right on sloping ledges to steep broken section, finishing on good holds. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Climbs the steep wall across the gully from the China Wall. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.