Routes in Shawthing Rocks

Starts off in a wide round corner, climbs through an over lap, with an easy slab finish. Double bolt and chain Anchor.

Climbs an arete just to the right of a dirty hand crack, then easier slab finish. Double bolt, chain and maillon rapide anchor. Originally the bottom was protected with cams (size 2 to 5) in the crack, the left hand line is about a grade easier.

Starts a few meters to the right of "Enjoying Creation", on steep finger pockets. Rest the fingers on the slab, before following the right leaning arete. Save some energy to clip the chains! The name is because this was the 100th climb put up at Shawthing Rocks. Double bolt and chain anchor with MR.

Climb to the first bolt with out Bridging. Follow the bolts up and left. Double bolt and chain anchor.

This is "Dead cow groove's" shorter, big brother! It might be a good idea to warm up your leg and calf muscle's before doing this one. Bridge up the wide runnel, crux is at the top. Double bolt, maillon rapide, and chain anchor.

Steep climbing on real nice rock, loads of bolts, but if you stop to clip them all you may run out of stream. Gets the afternoon sun, a great winter climb. Has a pull cord to set up a top rope. Double bolt, chain, and Maillon rapide anchor.

Starts in a hidden corner. Open handed, balancey moves on the crux, a small left hand traverse then up the face to the double bolt and chains.

Climb directly past the first two bolts. Then veer left of the 3rd and 4th bolts clipping the bolts with the right hand. If that's to much information for a n Onsight assent, sorry!! you can't un read it1. Has some real nice moves, and requires fast problem solving. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Mantle onto the slab, this is the hard bit! Climb to the top of the first boulder, then mantle onto the next. Leaving the comfort of a ledge is always a mind game, but this one is well protected. Follow the next slab and some punky moves gets you to the top. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Do you climb in the chimney or on the out side. Left , middle, or right? A good beginners puzzle to solve! Double bolt and chain anchor.

A short finger and hand crack. Double bolt and chain anchor

Starts on an aerate near a short crack. As you climb the holds get smaller, crux is near the top. Double bolt, chain and maillon rapide anchor.

A real nice climb, Bryce and Nathan cleaned it and I bolted it. We were worried a large rock at the top looked a bit unsafe. So we tried pulling it off with my 105 HP tractor. On the 3rd pull the chain broke and smashed the tail lights, so it's still there- chained back to the cliff above!

This one is harder than Procrastination, so maybe Procrastination is only a grade 16? Double bolt chain anchor.

Varied climbing, starts on an arete then a shallow corner, through an over lap, and finishes up an arete. So climb past the last two bolt on the right hand side. Uses the same double bolt and chain anchor as the trad route "3- 4- 5"

A narrow corner, nice little trad route. In the shade all day at bottom, the top gets some late afternoon sun. Use the crack for cams 3 to 5. You want at least two number 4 cams. Double bolt and chain anchor.

A steep short climb right of chimney. DBC anchor

This climb is between off grid and Long block. A tricky start helped by climbing a tree! Follows a nice corner to a ledge, the face above is the hard bit. Double bolt and chain Anchor.

Slab climbing bliss. Double bolt, chain and Mallon rapid anchor.

The crux is getting to the first ledge, although the top is not a given either! Double bolt, and chain anchor, with MR. The name means "hard rocky ground".

The name means "best effort" A must do if you are in the area. Climb to the left of an arete. some powerful moves to get though an over lap, to a pumpy face. Thought is needed to gain a rest before the final slab finish. Double chain, bolts and a mallain rapid ancker.

It has 11 of its own bolts and uses the last 2 bolts and belay anchor of "Tarradh". Climbs the areat, using of line of least resistance, sometimes on the left, and sometimes on the right hand side of the areat. Keep left and it's probably grade 19, climb in the center probably 22!

A Hard start, and easier top. No expenses spared on this one, All stainless steel "p" bolts glued in with stainless steel chain and Malian Rapid anchor. Tom tested the bolts with a few good whippers, before the successful accent.

Start by abseiling from a tree. A rope bag is great for this or get lowered by a trusted mate! At the saddle climb the pinnacle. Three of the bolts have maillon rapides on them so you can pull the rope and not leave gear behind. At the top of the pinnacle you can either abseil off the anchor of "Tàrradh" or retrace your steps.

This is the left most climb on the front of the bounder. it gets the sun first in the day. The soft ignimbrite rock does not instill confidence! Double bolt and chain anchor.

Climb the steep solid rock, through the over lap, with a slab finish. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Climb the steep corner with a finger crack, top out on the slab.

Climb the arete, with a slab finish. First climbed on a damp day in winter, could be a stared route on a hot day in summer!

A narrow chimney climb. Wearing overalls was a good move! Has a double bolt and chain anchor.

Climb the outside of "Purgatory" the chimney. Uses the same double bolt and chain anchors.

Climbs the right side of face between the two chimneys

The hard bit is getting inside this chimney. Climb under the chock stones and up to the Anchor of Purgatory.

The is a classic Bryce sand bag. Organically graded 17, I think it's more like 19, time will tell. It's a nice bounder problem with bolts. Double bolt chain, and Mailon rapide anchor.

You will find this climb on the back of the first pillar in a clearing, after you come out of the bush, walking in a down stream direction. Starts as hand crack and closes to a finger crack. If you have big hands it will be harder! Add a grade or two if you don't know how too jam!

Straight up the steep face between the crack and corner.

A classic line, starts with a ramp, into a technical corner. Once you reach the crack it gets easier,,,,,, But does it?? Double bolt, chain, and steel crab anchor.

A hard start, especially if you are short, there are 3 over laps to over come, then a slab finish. DBC.

A good beginners lead. DBC

Gaelic for "very nice". Climbs the face on the south side of the pinnacle, balance-y moves lead to the thin arete, then mostly easier to the top. DBC.

A nice slab climb at the left end of the wall. Double Bolt, chain and Maillon rapide anchor.

Climb the short chimney and high step on to the slab. Long sleeves and knee pads handy! Same anchor as "Janne,s Slab"

Power straight over the overhang to gain the slab above. The name came from braking two hammers bolting the climb! Triple Bolt, chain and Maillon Rapide anchor.

Another nice slab climb on pockets. The name came from bending 3 bolts white bolted the climb. Double bolt, chain, and maillon rapid anchor.

As an alternative finish, traverse left, before the cliff steepens and climb up "Two hammers" at grade 16. or traverse left at the over lap at grade 17 ish?

This alludes to certain famous incidents where a commander, having landed in a hostile country, ordered his men to destroy their ships, so that they would have no choice but to conquer the country or be killed. It is also a song title, and now a climb. Starts at a crack, then tricky slab climbing with the crux before the overlap. Shares the same last bolt and anchor as "Cut the ties" Double, Bolt, Chain and Maillon Rapide.

Climbs the steep shallow groove on to a slab, then through an over lap. It shares the same last bolt and anchor as "Burn the ships", but is a little harder.

A bold-ly start. I have seen 3 different ways of doing it! Climb the steep crack to easier ground, step right at the top to a ledge. Uses the same anchor as "Lonesome". TBCMr.

Up the slaby arete. Uses the same anchor as "Mud n Crud" TBCMr

The name says it all, about how hard it was to clean! Climb the wide crack that angles left, with the best style possible! Double, bolt, chain, and Maillon Rapide anchor.

Start as for Horrible, after clipping the first bolt move right over the first over lap. Follow the bolts up the slab and through another over lap at the top. A little contrived but still a nice slab climb. TBCMr.

Twenty nine was the temperature when Bryce lead this! Lots of high steps on this one. Triple Bolt Chain Maillon Rapide anchor.

Start on the face then use the corner to gain the anchor. Nice technical climbing. TBCMr

It is the right hand steep start to Tuesdays Adventure. Contrived. The more right you go the harder it is. You probably want to brush it first!

Boulder start. DBC.

Another boulder start. You can avoid the start by traversing in from "Lone hebe"

A trad climb on pockets, using the finger crack for gear. Cams 0.5 to 1 and wires.

Climb the overhanging pockets, as the wall gets less steep the pockets get smaller! Share the same anchor as "Saturday.. the same but different" DBCMr

A steep start on big holds, with a slab finish. Double bolt and chain anchor.

There is a ground bolt for the belayer to clip in too (HINT: before climbing starts). Step across the chasm and clip the first bolt. Climb the face, then arete, you just get started, then it finishes! Double bolt, and chain anchor.

Climb the over hanging boulder past 2 close bolts, then up the easier arete. You can avoid the hard start by walking around and starting on top of the boulder to make it grade 16.

Go up! Steep pocket pulling. Double bolt chain and Maillan Rapide anchor.

A steep start, up the short arete left of Heart Strings. Good holds to clip from . Grab the Tea tree to clip the two bolt anchor.

Janne's favourite climb and Janne's my favourite person! A balancey start with technical face above. If you want the fill experience, continue past the Double Bolt belay, over the small over lap to the anchor of "one bolt that's no fun"

Follow the line of blue bolts, best done with a blue sky, wearing blue over alls! Use the same anchor as "one jug..."

It is harder than it looks. Climb straight up the middle of the bluff on small pockets. The name has nothing to do with drinking! Same anchor as above. TBCMr

Up the right handside of the bluff. The small stump on the right is not part of the climb! Double bolt, chain, and Maillon rapide anchor.

Power full start over a small over hang, then balance is needed to clip the second bolt. Two bolts and chain anchor.

499 new routes in 50 years of climbing, Awesome effort Bryce! Like the name suggests, climb the right hand side of the Arete up a short corner, to a double bolt and chain Anchor.

They can't be all 3 star routes right!! Climbs a steep face, through two over laps. Keep to the right on the 2nd one to avoid the softer rock.Needs more cleaning. DBCMr anchor

Do a direct start or traverse in from the left Has a Double bolt and chain with a steel Crab.

2nd pitch to 'A Piece Of Cake' Start from the ground, hint you don't have too clip all the bolts! Some bridge moves takes the weight off the arms before the final face to the top.

Starts on a pocketed arete, step right following the line of bolts to the double bolt and chain anchor, with 10mm Maillon rapide. A great beginners climb.

2nd pitch to 'Honey Comb' Start from ground, back cleaning your draws as you climb Honey comb, or place extenders on the bolts. If you think the first overhang is hard the second one is harder! Bolts are close so can be aided.

Starts in a damp corner. Some hard chimney moves at the start opens up to a easier ramp. Then the final technical pumpy "leaning corner" finish.

You might want to stick clip the first bolt on this one. Climb the over hanging face past 4 bolts to a ledge. The top half is a little contrived, sequessed in between "Leaning corner" and For "King and country". Climbs the arete in the middle, has one bolt of its own, other wise use the nearest bolt of the other two climbs! Do not use the right hand wall on for "King and country"

Two steep aretes with a slab in the middle. Extenders are handy on the slab. The first arete has some powerful moves, but save some energy for the pumpy second one! Same anchor as "Leaning corner"

There is 2 sets of bolts with chain on an easy slab. This is the lower one.

A nice easy slab for building beginners confidence. Travsers in from the left to set up.

It has a cool traverse at about one third height, with good hands but not much for the feet! After the traverse bridge out right to rest the arms before the pumpy finish. This one did not get explored earlier because of a wild bees nest in the top corner. Double bolt, chain, and maillon rapide.

Climb the left side of the steep arete. Doubles bolts and chain anchor.

2nd pitch to 'Rescuer' From the ledge climb the steep face, a slight right hand traverse gets you to easier ground, then up the final arete to a double bolt, chain anchor.

Orginally climbed to the very top, but this was no good for top roping, so I lowered the anchor to the bottom of the final ramp. The steep start can be made easier by standing on the blue drum. Bottom stays wet in the winter. The name came about because it took 5 goes at cleaning it. Great for top roping beginners.

It has a crux start, so it's NOT a good warm up route! Easier climbing in the middle but hard enough to keep you thinking...With a little sting in the tail! Triple bolt, chain and Maillon Rapide Anchor

A technical face climb that would be difficult to Onsight. Double bolt and chain Anchor.

A steep start on the left side of a wide chimney. Bridge moves provide welcome rests before you launch up the ramp on the left leading to the final crux face. DBC.

NB: As an alternative finish, you can climb right and go up "Got a Job" At about the same grade.

A Great little climb on a hot day to get out of the sun. Climb the corner in side the chimney. use the same Anchor as on holiday.

An alternative start to the "on holiday ledge" Climbs the left side of the steep arete. The largest pocket has a birds nest in it, Bryce wanted it left there!

My holiday project. Climbs the direct line up the arete to the slab to the belay ledge. TBCMr. Commit to the direct second pitch, surstined. Can be done as one long pitch. Extend or back clean the belay ledge runner/s.

From the belay ledge climb left (2m) then up the steep wall, crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Using a right leg knee bar to rest the arms is helpful. Cleaned by Nathan Kelly. Bolted by Stephen Shaw.

An alternative 2nd pitch. From the ledge of "on holiday" clip the first bolt then follow the right hand line of bolts to the top. Uses the same anchor bolts as Om holiday.

It has a thought provoking crux sequence, using a a mixture of holds and careful foot placements. Starting at ground level between the "on holiday" arête and the "marking time" face climb; finishes at the "on holiday" belay ledge.

Balance on finger tips, don't forget your foot work! Nathan cleaned it, Bryce bolted and climbed it.

Small cams and a sling on the totara tree near the top. DBC

A slabby arete with two crux over laps (steeper bits). A good bunch of bolts. Double bolt, chain anchor.

Walk up deer gully on your right hand side is a steep wall with good pockets. If nobody has done it in a while the pocks will be covered with sheet web spider webs. They are harmless but will give you a thrill! Welcome to outside climbing. I dig a ledge for the belayer and the first bolt is the belayers anchor. There are no anchor bolts at the top, climb out and use trees!

This one can be damp at the bottom but the top keeps dryer. If you are the first for a while the pockets will need the pine needles removed before they can be used. So take a brush! it has a nice sequence of moves to gain the slab finish. DBCMr.

Slightly longer then the previous route. A steep start on large holds, then an easier slab, followed by the steep face finish. Lots of bolts take care not to z clip. Same anchor as above.