Nodes in Waikato

Prominent Gully behind the Predator Pinnacle where 'Jugzilla' heads up.

Grovel up the dirty gully above Jugzilla until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

Pitch 1: (17) Start up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here (10 bolts), or;

Pitch 2: (19) Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God. (3 bolts)

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

P1: (18) Follow the left line of bolts up the arete (9b, 25m)

P2: (21) The original Aliens pitch through the overhang and to the right (8b, 15m)

P3: (19) Continue up the headwall, past the anchor of Jugzilla to the top of the buttress (7b, 20m)

The steep overhang between Aliens 2nd pitch and Foo Fighter. Traverse in from the ledge (use the belay bolt to keep safe). Left knee pad or tape recommended. There are two great photo spots, depending on the light, next to the start of Jugzilla or at the anchor of Pointy Bit.

Up Aliens Resurrection until that route splits left. Head right up the overhung arete on some wild holds to gain the slab and anchor.

Sustained pocket pulling up the slightly overhung face to a mini crux and obvious undercling rest. Power up for the final 5m to the arete and slab.

If you've got something left in the tank, keep climbing into the crux pitch of Brunettes not Fighter Jets (23) for a 3 star, 30m link up.

The face between the Jugzilla Gully and Captain Cavemans Cave.

P1 (21): Play "find the jugs" up the vertical wall right of Aliens Resurrection, then easy slab to chain anchor.

P2 (23): Continue on the left-hand line through some technical climbing.

P2 (20): Cross over the crack, then continue straight up the face to the top.

Starts left of the tree by the trail, trending left. Good access to the hard routes above.

P1: (23) Follow the red streak directly in front of you into pockety terrain with jugs up high (6b, 15m)

P2: (18) Head slightly left then straight up, following the arete left to the anchors (13b, 30m)

Follow the white streak out right from Sweet 16s Not M16s anchor, heading left around the corner and through the overhang.

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). (20m)

Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. (20m)

Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected. (12m)

P1 (22) Follow the left line of bolts, continuing up the pink face to the belay ledge. (30m)

P2 (18) Technical climbing. Up past the old anchor, trending right at the top to the Captain Caveman anchor. (25m)

P1 (23) Go up the pocketed slab towards the upper arete, joining with the second pitch of Thors Little Brother. (9b, 30m)

P2 (22) Continue up the face on big but spaced holds, tackling the upper bulges and increasing exposure. (10b, 25m)

P1 (17) Follow the obvious crack line left of Captain Caveman into the cave. (0b, 20m)

P2 (19) Go around the slabby corner to the left of the anchor, following the crack to link up with King Of The Castle (4b, 16m)

The easier way up, juggy climbing all the way and bypass the overhang crux of Caveman. Go up and left on the hand line from the start of 'Captain Caveman' to a small ledge. P1) goes up the right-most line of bolts through the gully to the anchor in the bottom of the cave. P2) goes right from the anchor then left up the obvious easy route out of the cave to a ledge on the face, stop at the chains or continue into the shade and use the Caveman anchor. P3) Follow the corner crack system straight up as for 'Captain Caveman', then at the overhang where Caveman goes left, instead go right following the bolts for an easier 16 finish on similar features, then traverse left to the shared anchor.

The line between Cave Boy and Captain Caveman. Starts part way up Captain Caveman.

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route.

1. (17) Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way.

2. (16) Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney or use hanger, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt.

3. (19) Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

Short chimney at the back right of the cave as you go in from Captain Cavemans first pitch anchor. Left of Year of The Monkey. Quick clip anchors.

Starts in the cave at the top of the first pitch of Captain Caveman.

1: Start 5m right and up from Captain Caveman, up the fully bolted wall to a ledge and anchor. 2: Head left over the bush to reach the wild exposed finger crack up the edge of the cave, protected on gear. Continue to a bolt-protected arete and slab then anchor. You can top out by heading up into the top pitch of Captain Caveman or Cave Boy.

A boulder start will lead you to some fun climbing above. The grade seems to be dependant on your height and ability to exploit it.

This one you can't lank your way out of it. Another boulder start to fun upper moves.

A nice fun rope with multiple anchors set up to practice multipitches or top-rope laps.

A fun beginner climb suited for all ages, shares the anchor of Mariposa

Top rope only. A nice climb to show people what fun climbs is.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

The route at the leftmost side of Upper Bluff, follow the track all the way around. Starts in a short corner then continues up the wall above.

Open Project between Recycling Nachos and Squeedily Spooch. Only the first two bolts have been placed, if you managed to do the boulder at the second bolt get in touch. Two moves revolving around an undercling that is likely to weigh in around V10/11.

8 bolts. Right of Recycling Nachos, a V3 start (stick clip it if you don’t have fingers of steel) to sustained 20-ish climbing, a no-hands rest then a hard exit (now retrobolted for those with inferior human organs)

A somewhat forgotten and neglected route with a epic tale on the first ascent. Bring 0.3-3 cams and wires and tackle the overhanging hand jam. Don't lose your gear.

This steep line faces anyone willing to become immaculate. Tackles the roof section directly above the vertical wall. A small traverse right then left will lead you to another roof and over a lip to the anchors.

Easy climbing for the first few bolts leads to a triple crux sequence (V3 / V4 / V2), then a welcome hands free rest before sustained 23 climbing takes you to another bouldery crux (trending left) that guards the anchor. Benchmark 26. Tick this and you're ready for the 27's.

A great climb to push yourself with safe falls and plenty of shade in the summer / sun in the winter.

A climb that people from the beach can marvel at you climbing. Technical and thuggy climbing will lead you to a traverse out left. Clip the 6th bolt and prepare to pull hard, or whip trying. Recommended to clip the belayer in.

Head up the first four bolts of Altar Of Madness, then continue straight up the slightly overhanging wall through the black streak. Shares the same anchor as Altar Of Madness.

The direct line of Altar of Madness that cuts out the traverse. Shares the first and last two bolts.

The second pitch of Altar Of Madness. Trends slightly right, then cuts left of the top of the bluff.

Four bolts up to the ledge, then six more to the anchor. Quite hard to stop and clip around the second to last bolt.

Starts at Flogged To Death/Tour Of Duty RH finish belay.Trend up and slightly right (Gr 19) to a ledge 6m from summit. Up through a bouldery groove in the overhang, cutting right to the very top of the bluff. Could be 26+ for sub 6 foot tall climbers.

P1: (19) Go up near the right hand arete, moving left at the second bolt then continuing through the bulge to the anchor (6 bolts).

P2: (18) Continue to the obvious finger crack and up to the final anchor. Rappel off or traverse around the exposed arete. No bolts.

A long forgotten route, on the lakeside face, 8m right of Sex Panther accessed via hand rope.

1. 28m (18) Start at the kowhai under a thread 5m up. Up until you reach a protruding arete and bolt, move left around this, then stay close to the arete being careful of choss out left. DBC anchor.

2. 9m (16) Up over ledges past 2 bolts to top out at a 2 naked bolt anchor (no hangers) and walk off, or move left after 1st bolt to reach the Sex Panther anchor.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

Traverse diagonally left behind the trees, then up through the disconnected crack system then tend right to reach a reasonably stout manuka tree (possible belay). If rope drag has been well-managed it is possible to continue up to the Elephant Hunting chains to belay, and possibly up the final short pitch of that to rap anchors.

The obvious left-leaning crack line starting at the corner of the buttress.

Start around the arete from Elephant Hunting on cams in pockets, then follow 2 bolts leftward through balancy moves on the slab, more gear, then a few more bolts to finish at the anchor behind the manuka tree. You can continue up the left corner (13) to a tree belay in the bush to gain the middle tier.

Right of Nogasang sharing its first 2 bolts. Stay left of the line of bolts on The Nose

The easy slab/arete. Much easier and shorter than its Californian cousin.

The obvious corner crack with the huge triangular detached flake and tree up top. Tree anchor, descent via the hand line down the steep gully.

An impressive line up the easier slab then through two overhangs (crux at first). Lower off the anchor above the second overhang at 30m or continue to a shady ledge belay and scramble off.

Better than it looks. The broken corner and crack system - take a full range of gear. Traverse left to reach the Flight of the Pachyderm rap anchor (recommended), or scramble off up the loose gully.

The flaring broken chimney at the top of the buttress. Access to the upper tier.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

The flaring broken chimney. Probably the best protected way to get to the upper tier.

A low angle slab with the crux getting onto the slab, and no protection until near the top.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

An offwidth start leads to a left facing corner and layback offwidth finish, all on excellent rock. Take your big cams.

The snaking crack with cruxes at each bulge with good gear. 5 meters right of Elephant's Revenge.

Access by traversing across the bushy ledge from Cicada Death March. Goes up the steep hand crack

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

The large prow left of Fibula. Boulder start then stay left on the bolts.

The large body crack/chimney that splits the first face. Similar to Tibia.

Starts 10m right of Fibula.

P1 (17): Go up the wondering crack to the right and belay off the slab anchor.

P2 (19): Traverse left then climb directly up the buttress.

Same start as for The Tombstone, but continue up the left hand/finger crack. Snake up to the top of the buttress to the same belay as The Tombstone.

P1 (21): Follow the hand crack to the small ledge, then traverse up the right finger crack. Trad belay on the arete.

P2 (16/17): Two different variations. Either climb the finger crack 2 meters right of the arete to the top of the buttress or climb up the corner to the same anchor.

The hand crack parallel to the arete. Finishes on the highest buttress.

On the lone buttress 40 meters right of The Tombstone. Boulder start followed up an easy dihedral.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

NO NEW BOLTED ROUTES BEYOND ELEPHANT BUTTRESS. No fires at any time of year. Carry all rubbish out with you. Dogs are permitted but must be kept under control at all times, do not allow your dog to roam.

A good first multi pitch with low consequence, easy moves and a good view.

Pitch 1: (15) A right-trending line that finishes at the big ledge. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 2: (15) Head up the slab, heading right after the third bolt. DBB. (3b)

Pitch 3: (14) Continue heading up the slab and past a ledge to the anchor. DBB. (4b)

Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be combined

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

Climb/jam the left crack, continue past trees to large block, exit left to Mellow Yellow anchors

The terrific looking rising traverse crack leads to a crux getting around the corner and onto the ledge. Optional trad belay (or keep going if you have managed rope drag well), then easier climbing to a bolted anchor. You won't be able to see your second, and maybe won't be able to communicate either. Plan accordingly.

Direct start to 'The Sweet and the Savage'

Pitch 1 (15) Climb the crack and move left to the arete, continuing past 5 bolts and a wire placement, finish up the top crack of The Sweet and the Savage. (27m, 5b)

Pitch 2: (15) Right and up past 3 bolts to the belay. (5m, 3b)

Head up the bolted arete, splitting off left to the anchor. DBB.

Start as for Raw Umber, but continue up the arete. Head left under the bushes and then head straight up over the small bulge to the anchor. DBB.

Start as for Survival Of The Fittest, but head right from the mid-height ledge to continue on the arete. DBB.

Climb the easy start left of Shoot Your Gun then after 15m attack an overhanging face. Make use of a mini rest before launching into a powerful crux sequence with perfect clean falls. After this, climb left into Survival Of The Fittest for a few metres up to the last bolt, then tackle the overhanging arête direct to the large ledge.

A nice long corner, exit left at the top to the bolts for Counter Intuitive

Access via abseiling off the tree directly below All Aussie Adventures. Follows the right leaning crack before exiting left.

Starts 2m above the lake. Follows the crack and big holds finishing below the start of Temple Of The Stone Pilots.

1. 22m, 8 bolts: Follow the grey ring bolts to the belay ledge in the middle of the face.

2. 26m, 8 bolts: Follow the first four ring bolts then tra-verse right, through the roof, to join the top of Highway Child. Dan Head; 2011.

10 bolts. Starts at the top of the first pitch of Ezy Ryder. From the mid-way belay, climb past the first 3 ring bolts then head up and left onto the hangers. Alpine style rock climbing. Dan Head (solo) ; Mar 2011.

1. Climb up the slab using edges and cracks.

2. Follow straight up through technical overhang with good holds.

Follow the vague crack line straight up after the first 3 bolts of High Hopes.

Outstanding, best as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (16) From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. (8b)

Pitch 2: (16) Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay. (7b)

Starts 2m right of High Hopes, following a right arching crack past two bolts. Continue towards the arete once the crack finishes towards a final bolt. Finishes at the High Hopes anchor.

Start as for Pimps Don't Cry, finishing at the anchor of Make My Blue Rat Dance. Might have been retrobolted by now.

“Excellent, this is” – Yodan.

1. 25m, bolted: Start as for Make My Blue Rat Dance, then continue straight up the steep face direct to the High Hopes midway anchor.

2. 23m, bolted: From the anchor, head up and right through some wild terrain with increasingly harder moves until you gain the slab.

Link up of P1 & 2 of Black Yoda. Hand/fist sized cams helpful to reduce the middle runout if you skip the High Hopes anchor. Pumpy!

7 bolts. Named after a high-diving rat with big gourds. Start by the tree before the first exposed hand line traverse. Wandering and bold. Head right at the end. Solid 18 most of the way.

P1: Tecky moves with marginal pro leads to a nice crack layback up to the M.M.B.R.D. anchor up and left.

P2: Continue up the crack systems towards an intimidating runout faceclimbing crux and up the slab corner. Finishes at the High-Hopes belay.

Combining pitches is doable but the rope drag is pretty bad and you may run out of gear... Established as ground-up Rot Kreis ascent with one fall at the crux. F.F.A. 1-2 weeks later.

Start at the single ring bolt belay (for the belayer).

1. 25m, 7 bolts: Juggy, reachy moves lead to a crux at mid height. Continue up the slab to bolted anchors (combining pitches is rad). This pitch was Momentary Lapse Of Reason in earlier guides.

2. 30m, 5 bolts: Head up and right on good holds to a technical crux sequence to a slabby rest. A few more bolts up the face lead to a nice ledge. No anchor yet, continue up on gear. Abseil far left to make it back to the 1st belay.