Routes as boulder in Turakirae Head

Sit start in the middle of the small overhang. At the break, head left and match on the diagonal edge. Lock down for the crimper then deadpoint for the flat white jug.

Avoids the good edge out left and uses small chips on the blunt arete.

Sit start in the middle of the overhang. Pull onto the break, sidepull/undercut the huge 'love handle' and crank for a two finger chip. Finish directly up the wall above.

A variation on Beaster: head right at the break and up left of Karl Malone.

Sit start, gain the narrow 'letterbox' hold then surmount the bulge using slopers and a difficult highstep.

Sit start on a large hold and traverse left on the (wave-like) band of slopers, keeping below the large break. Finish up the easy groove at the far end.

Start matched in the small roof below the Wavelength Traverse start on a very thin, flaring undercling. A big crossover move will prevent the dab. Continue with Wavelength Traverse and finish with Beaster.

Start as for Big Waves, traverse left and go for a good edge under the lip and finish straight up on slopey crimps.

Sit-start on jugs at the very left end of the wall. Traverse right through the obvious line while staying below the large gutter on Mon key magic. And the large breaks on both Skippy and Flex. Finish up the arete.

Start as for Te Whare Ra, gain the rising rail feature and follow it to the end.

Sit-start and then climb the slightly scooped wall.

Climb straight up to the rail on good holds.

Start with a big sidepull on the slightly overhanging wall. Gain a positive edge and reach for another edge on the lip. Trend rightwards to finish.

Climb onto the ledge and then up the golden streak on the right arete.

Start as for Speed Freak. From the wide pinch move right to a sidepull then right again to a diagonal flatty. Exit straight up or trending right.

One of the great cave problems! Start on the good flake. Make a long move with your left hand out to the wide pinch, gain a series of vertical slopers then bust left into the crack and exit trending left.

Start as for Pro Series but exit as per Speed Freak.

Extension to Speed King. Start a body length back from the good flake on some obvious underclings. Make a long move overhead to the flake, match this and finish as per Speed King.

Sit-start on a shallow undercling pocket and a poor pinch at the back of the cave and link into Freak Show. Easier if you stack the pads under the starting holds.

Start deep in the cave crossed up on an undercling (left Hand) and a shallow edge (right hand). Double take out to the glued keel. Match, then gain the diagonal rail without losing your feet. Exit up and left.

Start sitting on the block, with hands matched on the rail. Pull up and snatch the broken pocket with the right hand. Take the big pinch, slap the lip and mantel.

Start as per Pro Series and finish up Freak Out.

Start on the 'Fatal Discharge' rail and traverse right using a series of slopers and edges, the 'Speed Freak' jug is out. Finish up 'Speed King'

Low Start to 'Control Freak' Start on the glued flaked, move left hand to a undercling spike then make a big move to a right hand sloper, left hand to the pinch then from the rail at the end of 'Fatal Discharge' join 'Control Freak'

The low, low Start to 'Control Freak'. Start as for 'Pro Series' on the double underclings, move to the flake and carry on up 'Out of Control'

Start a body-length back from the glued flake on some obvious underclings (P) (the right hand one is a jug). Make a long move overhead to the flake, match this and exit up off piste. From the flake using the Musashi rail if needed get right hand to pinch, left hand to flatty, then the little crimps above the jug (that’s being skipped), then top out

From the flake using the Musashi rail if needed get right hand to pinch, left hand to flatty, then the little crimps above the jug (that’s being skipped), then top out

A fine eliminate.

Start on the large Hueco at the left edge of the cave. Traverse leftwards along the lip on slopers and edges. Exit above Fatal Discharge, or, better still, carry on to the end for an extra point.

As per sideways, but carry on all the way left.

Wedging yourself into the slot between the cave and the adjacent boulder (boulder 2).

Crouch-start matched in a generous undercut, link a series of pinches through the roof and exit direct.

Start as per toast, but from the first hold join into Raw Iron and finish up that.

Start sitting, hands on two opposing sidepulls. Make a long move to a sloping pinch, swing feet around and then make a series of burly undercling moves to join the start of Toast.

The extension to Pumping Iron. Sit-start below Allison Wonderland with an undercut and a sloper thing with a handy thumb pocket. Crank left to a small rail, match and then truck left to join the start of Pumping Iron.

Start as for Pumping Iron. From the double underclings, grab a large spike and make a long throw for a good edge. Swing around and finish on the adjacent boulder.

The exstention to 'Raw Iron' start as per 'Mr Olympia' and finish 'Raw Toast'

Start 1.5m back from the start of Pumping Iron. Left hand crimp, right hand on positive undercling fin. 3 moves to meet the start of Pumping Iron and finish up that.

Start as 'The Real Steel' and head out 'Raw Toast'

A worthy eliminate. Sit-start with left hand in the diagonal crack. Pull up to the next diagonal crack and then make a long move left to a small gaston. Lock this and crank up to a small edge in the seam for your right hand. From here follow a series of edges left and up to the lip.

Climb the centre of the wall to a good edge. Make a long move left and exit around the arete.

Using the same sit-start as Black Out but instead climbing as per Black Wall.

Start as per Black Wall but finish up and right.

As per Black Wall SS but exit via Kali.

Variant start to Kali, crank from the crescent to the good edge and finish as per Kali.

Sit-start right of Black Wall. Pull up to the right-hand crescent shaped gaston. Crank left to the good edge in the middle of the wall, match and exit via Kali.

A worthwhile eliminate. Climb the slab via sloping edges, avoiding anything decent.

Climb the middle of the slab on good holds.

Sit-start. Climb the arete with ‘Clark’ painted on it, exit direct or rightwards.

Sit-start on the arete inside, traverse leftist of the cave, and exit direct.

Straight up the short wall in the corridor by the exit for Toast.

Grade: VM

Step off the rock and pad up the slab to the right of the arete.

Sit-start on the low wall to the right of the Corridor Slab. Slap to the lip and mantel.

Start deep within the grotto matched on a flat jug, move right and out of the grotto. Exit direct.

Start deep within the grotto matched on a flat jug, move right and out of the grotto. Keep tracking right to an obvious sidepull on the right side of the face. Exit direct.

Step off the block and traverse right to gain the obvious diagonal crack, follow this to the top.

Sit-start with feet under the small roof. Make a couple of hard pulls up the short wall and exit left onto the slab.

Sit-start on the block and clamp you way to the top of the arete.

Sit-start in the middle of the gently overhanging wall. Head left and then up on small edges.

Start down the hole at the right end of the wall. Crank up and left to a mantel of sorts

Start on slopers at the left end of the overlap. Traverse right for a few moves and exit via Slaprobatics.

As for Lippy but continue traversing past Game On and exit via the easy slab.

Sit-start with left hand on the blunt arete as low as is reasonable and right on an undercling. Slap your way up to gain the lip.

Sit-start in the large jug, take the gaston edge, then another edge left of the arete. Make a long move up to another gaston and exit direct.

Start as for Game On but break rightwards onto the slab.

Sit-start to the right of Rock On, climb the arete on its left side.

Grade: VE