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Warm Up Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 49
  • Aka: Boulder 5

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Just west of Clark Boulder, sports a range of good problems.

Access issues inherited from Turakirae Head

You must park your vehicle in the public car park that is 300m before the end of the public road. From the car park, walk along the road and over the Orongorongo River Bridge. Access to Turakirae Head is via a covenant on private property. A fenceline defines the extent of the covenant. Visitors must keep to the seaward side of the fence.

Routes

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Grade Route

Step off the block and traverse right to gain the obvious diagonal crack, follow this to the top.

Sit-start with feet under the small roof. Make a couple of hard pulls up the short wall and exit left onto the slab.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2006

Sit-start on the block and clamp you way to the top of the arete.

FA: John Palmer, 2007

Sit-start in the middle of the gently overhanging wall. Head left and then up on small edges.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2006

Start down the hole at the right end of the wall. Crank up and left to a mantel of sorts

FA: David Kopp, 2007

Start on slopers at the left end of the overlap. Traverse right for a few moves and exit via Slaprobatics.

As for Lippy but continue traversing past Game On and exit via the easy slab.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

Sit-start with left hand on the blunt arete as low as is reasonable and right on an undercling. Slap your way up to gain the lip.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

Sit-start in the large jug, take the gaston edge, then another edge left of the arete. Make a long move up to another gaston and exit direct.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

Start as for Game On but break rightwards onto the slab.

Sit-start to the right of Rock On, climb the arete on its left side.

Grade: VE

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Sat 13 May
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