Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Lower Road Windshield Wiper Wall | ||||||
5.12a | The Windshield Wiper - with Sammi | 30m, 15 | Average | |||
People on Mountain Project have been saying since 2015 that this will clean up with traffic. It hasn't happened in 8 years. Needs a leaf blower, and all the temp bolts removed.
|
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5.12a/b | ★★ Never Go Left - with Sammi | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Come on arms.
|
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5.12b | ★★ Never Go Right - with Sammi | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A bit more resty than the others, therefore good.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Whiskey on the Southbound - with Sammi | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pump forever.
|
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5.12a | ★★ Too Drunk to Dream - with Sammi | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
All these pitches blended together in a mess of eyeball lactate.
|
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5.12a | ★★★ The Attribute - with Sammi | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Longest route on the wall with a droppable finish.
|
||||||
5.10b | Eggs Anyone - with Sammi | 18m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
To complete the "onsight the sector" challenge. Rubbishy.
|
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Lower Road Bumper Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Sprayple - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Socks
|
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Lower Road Bumper Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Gordon - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Socks.
|
||||||
5.10c | ★ Sugar House - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Socks.
|
||||||
Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Entrance (EFS Wall) | ||||||
5.11a ~5.11b | ★ Skeet Shoot - with Sammi | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool power route.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Brown Hole - with Sammi | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Freakin amazing. Very solid at 12b.
|
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Ammo Dump Wall | ||||||
5.13a | ★★ Sluggo — 2 attempts - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go today in 87% humidity which definitely added some spice. [6]
|
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Ammo Dump Wall | ||||||
5.13a | ★★ Sluggo — 4 attempts - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nearly sent second shot, then did two more worse goes, powered down. [4]
|
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Lower Road Hourglass Canyon | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Hang 'Em High - with Sammi | 37m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Long and adventurous. Cool. Sneaks.
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Left Fork Orangutan Wall | ||||||
5.10c ~5.11b | ★★ Kissing an Angel - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I would give this solid 22, therefore 11b. Excellent sustained face climbing on marble edges.
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Lower Road Windshield Wiper Wall | ||||||
5.12a/b ~5.12b | ★★★ Forbiddance - with Sammi | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super good - gave me more trouble than the 12b's.
|
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5.12b | ★★★ Nuclear Sponge - with Sammi | 24m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mewling for kneebars that never came. 8th route of the day.
|
||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Jackknifed - with Sammi | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tricky middle section.
|
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Upper Road The Bridge Area | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Crime Scene - with Sammi | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the better 10's in the canyon. Great finish.
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Left Fork Shapeshifter Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Power Trip - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It's rare in Maple to get to climb a "line" and this is one for sure. Worth seeking out for a heelhooking good time.
|
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Left Fork The Pipeline | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Plumber's Crack - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Feisty for a warmup. Barefoot.
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★ Neptune Cocktail - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Guidebook 12c, now 11d - that's quite the downgrade! Can't imagine how it was ever anything close to 12c.
|
||||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Jehovah Wall & Godmaker | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Deceptacon - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thought I was on a different, easier route for the first half until reality and pump sunk in. Even fluked wearing a R kneepad (for the other route) that ended up being critical on this one. Sometimes you get lucky. My best onsight effort of the trip so far, and hardest onsight in years, for sure.
|
||||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Impact Zone Wall | ||||||
5.12d Easy | ★★ Lap Dance — 2 attempts - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool. Second shot. [2]
|
||||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Ammo Dump Wall | ||||||
5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ Watermelon Sugar - with Sammi | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the more chalked and obvious and easier R version.
|
||||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Cobble Roof | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Pigeon in a Bun - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Sneaks.
|
||||||
Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Impact Zone Wall | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Busload of Faith — 2 attempts - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super short, super steep, no filler. [2]
|
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Ammo Dump Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Man Muncher - with evan | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
It will eat you alive!
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★ Point Blank - with evan | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Burly hard. Evan's beta.
|
||||||
Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Upper Road The Frontera | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Widow Maker - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Sneakers.
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Gunsmoke - with Sammi | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice short one close to the road. Sneakers.
|
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Right Fork Damascus Gate South | ||||||
5.12c | ★ Electron Blue - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Good, but probably a bit squeezed in, sharing some holds with the route on the right.
|
||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Welcome Back Cobble - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fell off this 7 years ago. First try today with Annie's impeccable beta. [2]
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ Black Stripper - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sustained and more pumpy than appearances suggest.
|
||||||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Right Fork Minimum Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Cobble Almighty - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This features a cobble the size of a volkswagen. It even has 2 bolts in it.
|
||||||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Right Fork Oxygen Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Key Lime Sky - with Sammi | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Total banger at the grade. Huge and atmospheric. Barefoot.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon The Gravity Well | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ The Tennis Shoe Slab - with Sammi | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sneaks of course.
|
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Impact Zone Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Pasties and a G-String - with Sammi | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Burly underclings and super slippery.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Ammo Dump Wall | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Shoot 'Em Up - with Sammi | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 moves to glory. What's that, like, 2.5 moonboards? [3]
|
||||||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Entrance (EFS Wall) | ||||||
5.9 | Half As Cool As You - with Sammi | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Barefoot
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★ Through a Brown Darkly - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Ammo Dump Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Devil's Plaything - with Sammi | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat.
|
||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Shoot 'Em Up — 2 attempts - with Sammi | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd try came off the last move. Fun.
|
||||||
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Cobble Roof | ||||||
5.13b | Kiss The Cobble - with Sammi | 15m | ||||
Nah, seemed totally brutal. There's probably tricks but I didn't find 'em. Move on!
|
||||||
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
Box Canyon Entrance (EFS Wall) | ||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★ Michael Fitzpatrick - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Extension steps it up a little.
|
||||||
Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Maple Canyon | ||||||
The Lower Road Windshield Wiper Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Beaten into Submission - with kris | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Puuuuuuummmp.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Hitchhiker - with Sammi | 40m, 26 | ★★★ Classic | |||
40m mega pitch. 26 clips, but honestly a tad overbolted, even for the grade. Certainly worth a run. Punchy down low.
|
||||||
5.10- | ★ Half Baked - with Sammi | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Decent stemming up the trad-like corner. Worth doing.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ Half Hearted - with Sammi | 21m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent technical wall at this grade.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ A Difference of Opinion - with kris | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really awesome pumper!
|
||||||
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sapper Cave | ||||||
5.12c | ★★ The Butterfly Effect - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely had to work for it. The top crux is ... well, I won't ruin it. But you better stretch your groin.
|
||||||
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Anti-Phil Wall | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Movement of Fear - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Attempted end of last day onsight - fell right on the top. Excellent route though, one to come back for.
|
||||||
5.12c | ★★★ I Am Not A Philistine - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned up after failed OS attempt last year. Felt very hard! OS from bolt 5 to the top. [2]
|
||||||
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Sammi | 30m | ||||
Repeat.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Anti-Phil Wall | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Eurotrash - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bolt to bolt to suss it.
|
||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Eurotrash - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Came together really well. Excellent power endurance rig. [3]
|
||||||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Skull Cave | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Pile Driver - with Sammi, Eric Godfrey | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy if you like steep jug pulling.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Canine Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Mr Scary - with Sammi, Eric Godfrey | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Leany.
|
||||||
Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Nappy Dugout | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fossil Family - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
I mistakenly started up Family Jewels and linked into the rest of this which made it harder apparently.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Geriatric Journey - with Sammi | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Loooooooooong! Well worth doing if you like some length in your life.
|
||||||
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Ruckman Cave | ||||||
5.13a | ★★ Shibumi - with Kris Hampton | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first and probably only ever 5.13 onsight at Rifle. Stoked.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Return to Sender - with Eric Godfrey | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Steep, huge holds, get the right sequence turning the roof or it's "return to sender".
|
||||||
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Joey Ninja Superstar - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 31st Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Could this be the most polished route on the planet? Need to do a side-by-side with some of those mirrors in Arco.
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★★ James Brown's Wild Ride - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One intricate bit up high. Lots of stemming.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Gun Show - with Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
My highest rated route of this trip. Epic top corner involving every trick. Super good.
|
||||||
5.10d | ★ Bulges of Munge - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
|
||||||
Mon 29th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Ruckman Cave | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Firearms - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit polished but with good reason. Classic!
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Loose Cannon - with Sammi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had to drop the clutch a bit at the top. Yeeeesh!
|
||||||
5.11b | ★ Primer - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Couple of awkward sections but a good project at this grade. In the top-5 most polished routes in the canyon.
|
||||||
Mon 29th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Kubrick's | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Full Metal Jacket - with Sammi | 24m | ★ Good | |||
5.11c | Lord Bullingdon - with Sammi | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
Hard in the corner, was almost outta there.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★ Road To Zion - with Sammi | 45m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
New mega extension with awesome flake feature. A very full 45m long.
|
||||||
Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Bauhaus | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Hurl Jam - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat.
|
||||||
5.13d | Der Pure - with Sammi | |||||
Proj shopping. Couldn't do the first hard bit, couldn't do the second hard bit. Weird. Bailed!
|
||||||
5.14a | All The Pretty Horses - with Sammi | |||||
Proj shopping. Thought I was on Der Pure. An undercling in the low crux boulder started to crumble on me so I called it.
|
||||||
Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.12d | ★★ Footlong - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool snatchy climbing. [2]
|
||||||
5.11b | ★ Wedding Streak - with Sammi | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Shorty #1
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Winter's End - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Shorty #2
|
||||||
5.10c | Peaceful Revolution - with Sammi | 24m | Average | |||
Repeat.
|
||||||
Fri 26th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Bauhaus | ||||||
5.13d | Huge - with Sammi | |||||
Proj shopping. Bolt to bolted, all moves bar one at the painful slot/fingerlock move at the top of the scoop.
|
||||||
Fri 26th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Suck It and See - with Sammi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty punchy, cool.
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★ No Risk No Fin - with Sammi | ★ Good | ||||
Actually very nearly fell on this.
|
||||||
Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Funny Face | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Borat - with Sammi | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made ascent for benefit glorious nation of Kazakhstan.
|
||||||
Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Winchester Cave | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Ricochet - with Sammi | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Runout and intricate. Not the best one to do jetlagged.
|
||||||
Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Kubrick's | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Dr. Strangelove - with Sammi | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Perhaps the best easy route in Rifle.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ Redmond Barry - with Sammi | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★ Jack Torrance - with Sammi | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Gold Coast | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Golden Boy - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Was a rest day, but at about 3pm, decided to walk up the hill and have a quick go. Good move, as it turns out. Four goes in 2012, four this trip. [8]
|
||||||
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Solar Collector | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Mona Lisa Overdrive - with Sammi | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Gets gradually easier as you go. My Golden Boy warm-up, lol.
|
||||||
Fri 12th Oct 2018 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Gold Coast | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Golden Boy - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Decided to get back on this after some tries in 2012.
|
||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Golden Boy - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fell on the crux sloper, before seeing Dru's alternate beta which I quickly stole.
|
||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Golden Boy - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fell due to poor accuracy on crux, then immediately to the top, feeling great.
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★ No Fluff - with Sammi | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly cool, exposed, and engaging for its admittedly short length.
|
||||||
Fri 12th Oct 2018 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Solar Collector | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Green Horn - with Sammi | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat warm up.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Chickenboy - with Sammi | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up. Tricky start?
|
||||||
Thu 11th Oct 2018 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Roadside Crag | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Pulling Pockets - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gearing up.
|
||||||
Wed 10th Oct 2018 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ To Defy the Laws of Tradition - with Sammi | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start was gooey wet, but the top section made it worthwhile. If you like chalk on orange stone, this is quite the canvas.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Infectious - with Sammi | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
In 83% humidity, the onsight of this techy thing was no doubt the best climbing performance of my trip thus far. I was maxxed.
|