Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.10c | ★ Catch As Catch Can | 20m, 10 | Halton Region | ★ Good | Tue 24th Oct 2017 | |||
Fun climbing. Stay right of the bolt line and use the crack (and tree). First couple of bolts are in questionable rock. Some holds at the beginning are quite loose.
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5.11a 5.10c | ★★ Nostalgia | 15m, 8 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Oct 2017 | |||
A great line with thoughtful and engaging sequences. The first crux is at the 3rd bolt, after you finish resting on the saddle like seat block. Use a deep left hand side pull jug to gain a thin right hand undercling/side pull. Dance your feet up to gain the better holds. An exciting sequence then greets you from the 5th to the 6th bolts. Start with a thin right hand side pull. Match on a flat side pull ramp and shoot up with your right hand to a nice undercling pinch. Do a hard cross with your left hand onto a decent ledge. Huck yourself onto the ledge and find a pizza slice shaped medium edge to rest on. Move right to a undercling pocket; there is a sharp crimp on the bottom of the pocket that you can use as well. Move up and right to some decent holds and clip the anchors.
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5.10b | ★ Slick and the 9mm (Slim and the 9mm) | 18m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Oct 2011 | |||
Fun route.
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5.10b | ★ The King Lives On | 21m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | |||
An enjoyable climb with plentiful rests in between pumpy sections. It gets slopey for the last third of the climb.
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5.10b | ★★ Deeper is Better | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2017 | |||
A cruxy, technical sequence greets you at the start. Hand and fist jam to pull yourself onto the ledge. Fun power endurance climbing on edges and plates for the rest of the climb.
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5.10c 5.10b | ★★★ A Brief History of Climbing | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | |||
Classic RRG pumpfest! A bouldery start leads to a rest on a ledge after the 3rd bolt. Clip 2 more bolts, rest on the ledge and then finish the rest of the climb before the pump clock runs out!
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5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 25th Oct 2013 | |||
A short pumpy climb.
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5.10a | ★ Savage Beagle | 20m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Sep 2017 | |||
An easy slab leads to fun technical face climbing on medium edges.
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5.10a | ★★★ Hiromi's Route | 21m, 17 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Sep 2018 | |||
An excellent long route on great holds. It is difficult to avoid touching the tree.
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5.10a | ★★ The Hunchback | 18m, 9 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Oct 2017 | |||
A great warm up. A pleasant start leads to an overhanging arete filled with jugs!
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5.9 | ★ Turd Overhang | 8m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Wed 15th Jul 2020 | |||
Fun, short, pumpy climb.
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5.9 | ★ Gridlock | 15m, 7 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Sep 2015 | |||
Fun! Pumpy and a little spicy getting to the anchors.
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5.9 | ★ Zero Gravity | 8m, 3 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Oct 2015 | |||
A fun, pumpy warm up for the rest of the climbs here
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5.9 | ★★ Miranda Rayne | 14m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Oct 2017 | |||
A fun, pumpy climb.
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5.9 | ★ Domestic Pressure - with Ray Eng, Debby Chiu | 15m, 6 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2020 | |||
Fun! Great face climbing on good holds with a small traverse in the middle. A steep headwall guards the anchors.
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5.9 | ★★ Jen's Corner - with Vera May | 12m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Jul 2018 | |||
Big holds and fun climbing lead to a exciting transition to the right facing corner finish. Highly recommended!
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5.9 | ★ Vuvuzela | 12m, 7 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Jul 2018 | |||
Figure out how to pull the roof sequence (use the pinch) and finish with easy face climbing for the rest of the climb. Fun!
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5.8 | Poppin Cherries | 12m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Average | Sun 11th Oct 2015 | |||
Easy, but crumbly climb.
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5.8 | Banana Split | 11m, 3 | Red River Gorge | Average | Sun 11th Oct 2015 | |||
It's ok....
Very crumbly and dirty
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5.8 | ★ I'd Rather be at Whites Bluff | 10m, 5 | Halton Region | Average | Thu 28th Apr 2016 | |||
Climb past 2 rusty bolts to a tricky crux. I suggest bringing a #4 Camalot C4 and perhaps some other gear to make the rest of the climb comfortable. Average.
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5.7 5.8 | ★ Zoomba | 15m, 8 | Halton Region | Average | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||
Ok slabby/face climbing. Anchors are a little reachy to clip.
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5.8 | ★ Full Metal Jacket | Beaver Valley | Average | Fri 14th Aug 2020 | ||||
Great handholds but tricky to find footholds
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5.8 | ★ Wally (Right of Pinnacle) | 8m, 4 | Halton Region | ★ Good | Wed 15th Apr 2015 | |||
One big move after the 3rd bolt.
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5.8 | ★ Low Exposure | 8m, 3 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 8th May 2012 | |||
5.8 | ★ Audie | 11m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Oct 2015 | |||
Fun, easy warm up climb
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5.8 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan (Le ) | 20m, 6 | Montagne d'Argent | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jul 2015 | |||
5.8 | ★ American Lightweights | 8m, 3 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Apr 2015 | |||
5.8 | ★ Crawling on Glass | 14m, 4 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Apr 2015 | |||
Good route. A little tricky between the 3rd and 4th bolt
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5.8 | ★ Blood n Valour | 11m, 8 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Sep 2015 | |||
Nice, fun route.
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5.8 | ★ Boy Pie | 12m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Sep 2017 | |||
Fun, juggy, flake climbing
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5.8 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
| 11 | Rumney | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | |||
Only did the first pitch. Fun slab climbing. 70m rope recommended
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5.8 | ★★ Le centenaire | 75m, 8 | Montagne d'Argent | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Nov 2015 | |||
A tricky start leads to easy slab for 2 pitches. The last pitch is very fun face climbing.
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5.8 | ★★★ 27 Years of Climbing | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Oct 2011 | |||
A great beginner lead. Lots of jugs, a little bit of pump and a tricky section up top.
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5.7 | Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni | 6m, 2 | Red River Gorge | Average | Tue 8th May 2012 | |||
5.7 | ★ Pocahontas Path | 8m, 3 | Red River Gorge | Average | Fri 25th Oct 2013 | |||
5.7 | ★ Pee-Wee | 11m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 9th Oct 2015 | |||
Fun, easy climb.
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5.7 | ★ Ra | 11m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jul 2016 | |||
Fun, easy slab
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5.7 | ★ If You Can’t Have the Mother, Have the Daughter | 11m | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2015 | |||
5.7 | ★★ The Big Easy | 10 | Rumney | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | |||
Fun. Only did the first pitch. Accidentally went on the Bourbon Street (5.10c) for second pitch. Bailed off of that.
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5.7 | ★ Who's That Change Guy | 15m, 10 | Beaver Valley | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Sep 2015 | |||
Great warmup route. Starts off with a nice traverse and continues with lots of jugs. Great route for the new sport leader.
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5.6 | ★ Helios | 10m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jul 2016 | |||
Another easy, fun slab climb
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5.6 | ★ Return of the Jingoid | 14m, 6 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Sep 2015 | |||
Fun and easy!
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5.6 | ★ Model Citizen - with Debby Chiu | 9 | Rumney | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | |||
Really fun sport multipitch. First pitch is vertical. Belay from a small nook after you top out. 2nd pitch is super easy slab to an anchor below a big ledge. Rap station should use rings instead of those sketchy weird J hooks.
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5.6 | ★★ Eureka | 26m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 30th May 2012 | |||
A fun first lead for a new sport leader.
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5.5 | ★ Mary Pop-Parazzi | 8m, 3 | Red River Gorge | Average | Fri 25th Oct 2013 | |||
5.5 | ★ Betty | 10m, 9 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2016 | |||
Fun warm up climb.
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5.5 | ★ Apocalypse Now | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | ||||
A great, easy jug haul for new leaders.
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5.5 | ★ Snakelet | 14m | Beaver Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Aug 2020 | |||
Fun, easy, sport multi pitch.
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5.0 5.4 | Arrête Pas ((unnamed 2)) | 20m, 8 | Montagne d'Argent | Average | Fri 3rd Jul 2015 | |||
Really easy climb
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5.10b | ★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication - with Cynthia Kett, Alex Norris | 25m, 10 | Rumney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | |||
An excellent overhanging route with some variety of movement Start with a couple of delicate moves until you meet a roof. Use the pinchy undercling to pull over and dance your way up some slab until you meet an overhanging headwall. Collect yourself and then proceed up the overhung, power-endurance finish on gigantic holds.
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5.10a | ★ Egg McMeadows | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||
Fun face climbing
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5.10a | ★★ 59" Drillbitch (59) | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th May 2012 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Bethel | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th May 2012 | |||
5.10a | ★ Bulldozer | 12m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Oct 2015 | |||
Bouldery start. Fun face climbing leads to thin holds at the finish.
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5.10a | ★★ Perverse Intentions | 12m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Sep 2016 | |||
Fun face climbing on a very subtle overhang.
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5.10a | ★ Fadda | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | |||
A beautiful, technical face climb. Fun!
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5.9 5.10a | ★★ Pogue Ethics | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th Sep 2016 | |||
A fun, long, jug haul.
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5.9 | ★ Jump For Joy | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | |||
A contrived dyno crux start with high potential for ground fall leads to an otherwise pleasant face climb. Stick clip the second bolt.
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5.7 5.9 | ★★ Bollero | 17m, 6 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||
I have no idea why this wonderful crack was bolted. It takes gear just fine. A red tricam near the top makes the finish more comfortable. Very fun. Some say it is graded 5.9, but it most certainly is not.
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5.9 | ★★ Creature Feature | 18m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th Sep 2016 | |||
Really fun set of moves to pull the crux roof sequence. Fun jugs for the remainder of the climb.
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5.8 | ★ Mirror Image | 20m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | Average | Fri 8th Sep 2017 | |||
Straightforward technical slab.
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5.8 | ★ friction constitutionnelle | 15m, 4 | Montagne d'Argent | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Jul 2015 | |||
Fun, slab climbing
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | Rumney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | ||||
One of the best 5.8 sport routes I have climbed! Very long (use a 70m rope to be sure), sustained and varied in movement.
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5.7 | ★ Peanut Butter Punch | 11m, 6 | Halton Region | Don't Bother | Mon 28th Aug 2017 | |||
A new, chossy, dirty sport line that has sprung up. It doesn't have very good movement; I wonder why it was bolted at all.
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5.7 | ★ Foxtrot | 15m, 8 | Halton Region | Average | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||
Nice warmup climb.
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5.7 | ★ Don't Look, Just Climb | 9m, 4 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
5.7 | ★ Arete, Eh? | 9m, 3 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
5.7 | ★ Rise And Shine | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||
Fun face climbing!
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5.6 | ★ Called Out | 9m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
5.6 | ★ Just a 5.6 | 9m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
5.6 | ★ Sneakers and Roids | 15m, 10 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
A really pleasant easy sport climb with gym like bolting and tons of jugs
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5.6 | ★ nagasaki | 20m, 3 | Montagne d'Argent | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Jul 2015 | |||
Fun, but the bolts are a little run out
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5.0 5.3 | ★ Péché Mignon ((unnamed 1)) | 23m, 9 | Montagne d'Argent | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Jul 2014 | |||
Super easy and fun.
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5.7 5.11b | ★ Serpentine | 12m, 6 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Aug 2014 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Johnny B. Good | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Oct 2017 | |||
A really fun route. Boulder up onto a ledge and then climb an easier, low angle face section. The last overhanging section feels a lot longer than it looks. Rest under the roof and then use a large left hand undercling pocket to pull onto a right hand jug. Find your feet, then throw for a large flake with your left hand and match hands. Shake out and then use a left hand crimp to bump to a juggy pocket. Cross into several jugs and then throw for the slopey ramp with your right hand. Bump your right hand up the ramp, compress and then right heel hook the ramp. Finish off on juggy pockets to clip the chains.
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5.10d | ★★★ Breakfast Burrito | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
An incredible, pumpy route. I leaned out of the alcove to clip the crux clip. Absolutely one of the best for the grade.
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5.10d | ★★ Red Line Fever | 14m, 7 | Halton Region | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 28th Aug 2017 | |||
An excellent, sustained route. It starts out with fun climbing on jugs for 3 bolts and transitions into thin side pulls. For the crux section, gain the polished ledge and find the right hand side pull around the arete. Rejoice as you paddle up on jugs up to the anchors.
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5.10c | ★★ I Owe a Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido | 17m, 6 | Halton Region | ★ Good | Thu 21st Sep 2017 | |||
Easy 5.8 climbing for two thirds of the route. Pull yourself onto a ledge and then face climb through the crux on small to medium edges; it is a surprisingly short 4 to 5 moves. A fun route, but I find it is overrated; there are better and more consistent 5.10c climbs at Nemo.
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5.10c | ★ Don't Drink and Dive | 14m, 4 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Apr 2016 | |||
Went back and sent it.
Easy climbing until the third bolt.
Here's the spray down:
For the crux, use a left hand gaston in the thin crack and right hand sloper by the bolt. Lock off and reach for a right hand crimp with a small thumb catch. Get your feet to the left. Use your left hand to reach a 2 finger jam (index and middle finger). Lock off again and you'll reach an amazing jug with your right hand.
end spray
Very fun sequence.
The 4th bolt hanger is a little rusted and spinning
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5.10c | ★★ Odyssey | 20m, 14 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Sep 2017 | |||
Climb a thin crack to the first overhang. The route eases off until the final overhang. Find the hidden jugs up and right of the overhang and then pull hard to reach the end. Fun!
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5.10c | ★ Thunder Road | 12m | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Sep 2019 | |||
Short and fun but with a bit of a cryptic crux. Climb easily up 3 bolts until you meet a small roof. Use sidepulls to gain a shallow left hand sidepull pocket. The chalked up rail to the right deceptively lulls you in; Find the 2 finger, 1 pad crimp on the left of this rail to pull on and then bump your left hand up to a nice juggy side pull. Work through the juggy but strenuous crack to pull the roof. Finish on easier face climbing.
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5.10c | ★★ As You Like It | 15m, 7 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Jun 2017 | |||
A fun and engaging route. I recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt to prevent ground fall. The crux is at the start; power through the opening sequence and then cruise through the middle of the climb. The route gets thin again at the last 2 bolts up until the anchor (face climbing on medium edges).
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5.10c | ★★ The G-Man | 12m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Oct 2017 | |||
An excellent, sustained line. It gets cruxy between the 2nd and 4th bolts.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Ten - D - Nitus | 16m, 8 | Halton Region | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 21st Sep 2017 | |||
An excellent line that slowly increases in difficulty as you climb up. Just before the roof, veer left. Going right or straight up to clip the bolt looks very inviting but will pump you out, so head left then clip the bolt. Climb up to the roof and then reach through the roof notch for the massive jug. Reach up to the massive flake jug on the right to finish the climb. Awesome. I feel that it feels more like a 5.10d (I'm comparing it to a similar route Red Line Fever)
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5.10b | ★★ Chantilly Lace | 20m, 9 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Jul 2012 | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Everything But The Kitchen Sink | 12m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2016 | |||
Fun, pumpy overhang climbing on decent holds. Find the crucial sidepull undercling!
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5.10b | ★ Murano | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | |||
Easy climbing on jugs for the first 6 bolts. The rest of the climb is tricky, slopey slab climbing. Cut out to the left after clipping the 7th bolt to reach some nice plate like jugs. Fun and not your usual climb in the Red.
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5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Oct 2017 | |||
Fun face climbing on slopey holds.
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5.10b | ★ Make a Wish | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2017 | |||
A powerful, bouldery start that leads to juggy climbing. After passing the roof, climb pockets and edges to the top of the climb.
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5.9 5.10b | ★ Mack The Knife | 12m, 6 | Beaver Valley | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Jul 2020 | |||
How this could possibly have been a 5.9 is beyond me. It is a fun route with pumpy arete climbing.
Start on some easy climbing holds until you meet a small roof. Slap the arete with your left hand and find a decent right hand underling under this roof. Bump up to side pull crimp with your right hand. Find the foot holds and continue using the arete until you get to a ledge. Easy climbing after this.
Great climb!
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5.10b | ★★ Lost in the Forest | 14m, 7 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Sep 2015 | |||
Fun, consistent, face climbing on medium edges.
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5.10b | ★★ Is She Pretty | 17m, 7 | Halton Region | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Sep 2015 | |||
Excellent line. Fun moves coming out of the cave.
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5.10b | ★★ Wasp in Space | 15m, 9 | Halton Region | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 21st Jun 2016 | |||
A really fun and consistent line. Short pumpy sequences punctuated with excellent rest sections.
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5.10a | ★ Sun Worshiper | 11m, 6 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2016 | |||
Balancy. After you clip the 3rd bolt, you can go left and use delicate moves to reach the next bolt. I opted to move right to a pocket to gain the ledge with the shrub and then I traversed back left to the next bolt. It ends with a delicate layback sequence.
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5.10a | ★ Captain Cave Man | 10m, 5 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Sep 2014 | |||
5.10a | ★ Veronica | 10m, 6 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
5.10a | ★ Madames Deconvience | 15m, 7 | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
5.10a | ★ Pins and Needles | 15m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2016 | |||
An excellent line. Pretty sustained for the first 2 bolts; there is a bouldery crux right after you clip the second bolt and then it is easy climbing for the rest of the route. Very fun!
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5.10a | ★★ Domestic Pressure-Direct - with Ray Eng, Debby Chiu | 9m, 4 | Beaver Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2020 | |||
Great climbing on good rock.
Crux section starts at a steep headwall before the anchors. From a left hand hueco, grab a shallow right hand undercling. Bump your left hand to a crimp, clip and then bump your left hand up to a decent hold. Next, use a right hand pinchy crimp for balance, left hand lock off, rock over onto the right foot and throw to a good side pull. |
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5.10a | ★★ Live Bait | 17m, 9 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Jul 2014 | |||
Excellent line. The start is very polished; be very careful.
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