Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 1 | |||||||
5b+ | ★★ Kilimansasha | 25m | |||||
12 Bohrhaken
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Kadina | |||||||
Before the Cave | |||||||
7b | Инспектор јога - with Malin | 25m | |||||
Schwierigsten onsight (nicht grad) bisher. Kein klarer wegverlauf, kein chalk oben brüchig und unten Kuhherde bei Malin
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VARDARSKA SAHARA | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kolibri - with Jonathan | ||||||
Eigentlich 6a+ weuter links, hier aber nur als 6c Verlängerung drin ist.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VDD right | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Tetka Biberce - with Jonathan | 12m | |||||
Unten boulder, oben leichter Überhang.
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6b | ★★ Sex Instructor - with Jonathan | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Kurze etwas boulderige Route
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
EROTICA | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Pure grip - with Malin | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nur am Anfang schwer, wenn man sich oben etwas rechts hält. Extrem lange horizontale Sanduhr
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VDD right | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Letecka Dijana - with Malin | 14m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Habe den "direct start 7b" gemacht mit extrem hoher rechter Ferse
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7a+ | ★★★ VDD — 2 attempts - with Malin | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Unten eher leicht, dafür dann Boulder an 5ter Exe und kein Griff mit chalk, deshalb recht kompliziert
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7a+ | ★★ Crna 2 - with Malin | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Unten Hauptschwierigkeit und wacklige clips. Alle Wege im Sektor extrem leistig, kurz und boulderig
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VARDARSKA SAHARA | |||||||
6c | ★★ Ruski Japonec - with Malin | ||||||
Nur die erste 6a+ seillänge
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VARDARSKA SAHARA | |||||||
7b ~7b+ | ★★★ Jelat | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard if you’re not used to crimping 25m straight forward. Really good one!
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Bislimska klisura | |||||||
WADI RUM | |||||||
6a ~6b | Мони нони | 20m | Average | ||||
I personally think it is a bit easier, but since I didn't manage to climb the most efficient way, on my onsight climb, it felt like 6b.
I have noticed some traces from chalk at the crux, on the far left side, which is most probably easier, still I believe it is more ethical and proper to climb it straight, where the bolt line is. |
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Ohrid | |||||||
Desaret | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Оплачка (oplachka) | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit hard
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Kadina | |||||||
Before the Cave | |||||||
6b ~6a+ | ★★★ Кокиче - with itchychy | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super fine. Keep the the left side of the upper face to enjoy easier terrain, and right to enjoy a tiny bit more challenging. Both are nice and the line deserves to be given a chance. Fit for warm up. Bolting in the upper part feels so nice, with slightly longer climbing between bolts and that feels awesome.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Bislimska klisura | |||||||
CASINO | |||||||
7b+ ~7b+ | ★★ Don Vladi — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
се скрши клучно фаќалиште на почеток, сега е потешка за 1 оцена
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Mavrovo | |||||||
CAVE | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★ Prikazna za sonot | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A true challenge for a master of all disciplines. 3 separate and very unique crux sequences separated by no-hands rests. You need them though, because holy shit they are each demanding in their own way. Honestly it even felt hard for 7a+, and each of us had a different opinion on which crux was the most difficult.
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5a ~5c | ★★ Viktor show | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
So much texture at the start. Good flowy crack traverse. Easy to set up draws on the meat of the 7a+ from here as well.
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6b Hard | ★★ Brushalter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rad line. Epic crux moves. Cool slab finish.
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Mavrovo | |||||||
CAVE | |||||||
7b+ ~7c | ★★★ Srekna 40ka | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
An absolute beef sandwich. 3 sessions, 4 tries total. Blew it at the last bolt twice. Pulling over the lip is a mütherfucker. It ain’t over till it’s over boi!
This was my third 7c (as graded by 27Crags), and I feel comfortable giving it this grade because it was quite a bit harder than the other 2 I’ve done in the last 2 months. When I came down a local guy told me the French team kids upgraded it to 7c+. FYI don’t trust the perma-draw except as a direction for cleaning. That thing is way past its prime to safely take a whipper. |
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5c ~5c+ | ★★ Mister sauh | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not as easy as it looks. A little dirty, but good movement and a decent all-around warmup.
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6b Hard | ★★ Dvotaktol sarma | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very hard to read but very cool crux with some technical beef. Beginning and end are both easy.
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Tue 1st Aug 2023 - Mavrovo | |||||||
CAVE | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kurs za bricenje | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good moves with a balancey mantle in the middle. Wanders a bit to the right at the top, away from the bolt line. Good warmup.
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Srpska rabota | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Really weird, fingery crux down low leads to jug-hauling. Felt about 5.10c.
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Mavrovo | |||||||
CAVE | |||||||
6c+ Easy | ★★ Ludacka Lulaska | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This route all comes down to the crux in the roof. Everything else is jugs. Going direct is definitely hard and the intended beta. I almost blew the onsight because the holds are not what you think they will be. It felt a little spicy for 11b rating on 27Crags but the crux is short-lived. Going right and around the roof and avoiding the crux is no harder than 10a/b. Don’t cheat yourself.
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6b Hard | ★★ Ruzica | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard, core-intensive, and some fancy footwork required. Pumpy forma warmup if you don’t know the beta.
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6a+ | ★★ Roza | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Definitely a bit easier than the other one.
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Mon 8th May 2023 - Matka | |||||||
Matka Otmarova karpa | |||||||
5c | Big Mама - with Marina Iosub | 30m | |||||
Nicest of all, with numerous, varied holds and sequences. A small overhang at the end. Vacation climbing.
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5b ~5b+ | ★★ Дедо Мијак - with Marina Iosub | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Also nice, with many incut crimps. Very hot but still pleasurable. Felt a tad harder.
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5b | ★★ Тито Партија - with Marina Iosub | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice and grippy. Intricate holds. Pleasure climbing.
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Wed 3rd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 1 | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Night Shift - with Bojan Š | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful slab route
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 4 | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Free Love | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Now I know why climbing shoes are so expensive ...
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
ALL INCLUSIVE | |||||||
6c+ | ★ You better watch! | Don't Bother | |||||
There're better routes.
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VDD right | |||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★★ Crna 2 — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice bouldery moves on sharp hand holds and polished foot holds ... :-| Easier for tall guys 7a+/b
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VARDARSKA SAHARA | |||||||
7a/a+ ~7b | ★★ Nov start | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Except for a couple of pretty sharp holds, the route is really good
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7a+ | ★★ Skapa Zena | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Neverending fun 😊 There are a few sharp holds though.
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7a ~7b | ★★★ Zelen traktor — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Nice moves. 7a+/b
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
EROTICA | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Kapetan Kuka — 3 attempts | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Cool bouldery route.
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
RADAR PETRA | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Patrick Edlinger L1 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool tech line.
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
6a+ ~6b+ | ★★ Drakula | 8m, 6 | |||||
If zou climb the bolts along,this can not be a 6a+. In the other guidebooks it says its a 6b+
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Prilep | |||||||
Baba Low Boulder 10B | |||||||
6A+ ~6B | Blur | ||||||
Seemed much tougher than other 6As around.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
5c ~6a | ★ Some technik - with Bojan Š | 8m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Entrance is slippery.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 4 | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Magla - with Bojan Š | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very cool detail on top.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
ALL INCLUSIVE | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Don't flush toillet paper - with Bojan Š | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Crack climbing with cool rests.
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6a | ★★ Stairway to Cevapcici - with Bojan Š | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Beautiful route.
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6a+ | ★★★ Old A1 - with Bojan Š | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Really cool slab climb
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Tara - with Bojan Š | 12m, 6 | Crap | ||||
Crux is meh.
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6a | ★★ Alpinist - with Bojan Š | 8m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Jug land.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
RADAR PETRA | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Prashina - with Bojan Š | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Very cool crux.
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Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
RADAR PETRA | |||||||
7a+ Easy | ★★ Velik den L3 | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
Sharp.
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6c | ★★ Bruno | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice one.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
6a | ★★ Alpinist | 8m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly good.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
EROTICA | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★★ Travestit | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting and tricky.
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6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Ichebana | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing line!
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
RADAR PETRA | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Радар Петра L2 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing route! Almost perfect. Тhere are a couple of reachy moves and will be harder for shorties. Highly recommended!
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6a Easy | ★★ Радар Петра L1 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Interesting crux
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KOZJA PESTERA (Panorama Side) | |||||||
6b | ★★ Metal Monkey | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
The rock is great and the moves are interesting but ... run-out.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
EROTICA | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Kredit | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice route.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VARDARSKA SAHARA | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kolibri | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Pretty tricky 6a
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7b+ Hard | ★★★ Drozzi — 2 attempts | 33m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such a cool route. Long, technical and skin-friendly. Highly recommended.
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7a ~7a | ★★★ Fen-Shuj | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice climbing but not very obvious line. Hard to navigate during OS.
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6c | ★★ Ruski Japonec | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Interesting climbing but the bolts are off the logical line and zig-zagging.
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Svinsko rebro — 2 attempts | 20m | Average | ||||
Between 3rd and 4th bolt is a no-fall zone.
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7a+ ~7b+ | ★★ Morani / Shako Zulu — 3 attempts | 50m | Average | ||||
Felt like climbing 2 very different routes. First half is basically 2 boulder problems and the second one is sustained climbing. Many of the bolts are hard to clip.
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7a ~7b | ★★★ Rock Land — 2 attempts | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice moves on relatively sound rock. A bit run-out.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
PIRIN | |||||||
6c | ★★ Karshi gipsa — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Starts with a tricky boulder problem and continues with easier but still nice, technical climbing to the top.
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kadina | |||||||
In the Cave | |||||||
6b |
Атлантида P1
- with
Katja Gavran
1
6b
| 30m | |||||
Only climbed first pitch.
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kadina | |||||||
Before the Cave | |||||||
6a+ ~6b+ | ★★★ Директорка - with Katja Gavran | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent climb!
Most of the route feels like 6a, but the cruxy thin section through the last part of the route feels like 6b+ to me.
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Matka | |||||||
Matka Otmarova karpa | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★★★ Џамбо Џет - with Katja Gavran | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took me about 4 attempts, and the first attempt required really working out a workable sequence through the bouldery crux.
Excellent climb!
A nice piece of history jumping on the first sport route in Macedonia.
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Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Mavrovo | |||||||
CAVE | |||||||
6c | ★ Sakam - with Katja Gavran | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Powerful move in the middle I could not do. Pulled through.
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Ohrid | |||||||
Zli Dol DOL right side | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Скопско и се е можно (Skopsko i se e mozno) - with Katja Gavran | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Got to about 1 meter from the anchor, then it was too difficult, even after rests and several attempts. Needed to pull up a stick clip to gain the anchor.
Not sure if I was actually on this route. Seems like maybe more routes have been added in this small area. |
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Ohrid | |||||||
Zli Dol Dembelaana | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Шпанска мушичка (Spanska mushicka) - with Katja Gavran | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent route with a very difficult Boulder problem in the middle.
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 1 | |||||||
★★★ Sveta Petka P1
— 2 attempts
1
| 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a+
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Ohrid | |||||||
St.Nikola | |||||||
5b ~5c | Апостолка (Apostolka) - with Katja Gavran | 15m | |||||
Run out at top.
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KOZJA PESTERA | |||||||
6c | Way home Right — 2 attempts | ||||||
Very nice and long line. A bit tricky in the crux. I didn't read it properly on first go and got pumped. Sent it on second go
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KOZJA PESTERA | |||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★★ Зоки поки | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Perfect line for warm up and a great challenge for newer climbers. The crux is just at the beginning, at the first couple of moves.
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Prilep | |||||||
Treskavec | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Убо е внатре | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
An amazing line which was set by Goran Kuzmanovski, back in May 2019, as per the info, I was able to retrieve for this route. Highly recommended!
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Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
ALL INCLUSIVE | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Pizzi - with S, D | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Quite a few tick marks at the crux helped.
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Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
RADAR PETRA | |||||||
6a 5c | ★ Palachinka - with S, D | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Maybe a bit close to the route on the right...
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6c | ★★ Bruno - with O | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Draws on. Nice techy route, not too easy to read.
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5c | ★ Veligden L1 (Velik den L1) - with S, D | ★ Good | |||||
Draws on, approach shoes, bit tricky like this.
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5b | ★ Macedonia L1 - with S, D | ★ Good | |||||
Draws on, approach shoes.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 2 | |||||||
6c 6b | ★★ Fitrevolucija (Fitness Revolution) - with S, D | 40m | |||||
Couldn't figure it out.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 4 | |||||||
5b | ★★ Wine Lover - with s, d | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice footwork exercises.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
5c 6a | ★★ Alpinist - with S, D | 8m, 6 | Average | ||||
While most grades in Demir Kapija felt on point, this sector felt a bit off.
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6a 5c | ★ Some technik - with S, D | 8m, 6 | Average | ||||
While most grades in Demir Kapija felt on point, this sector felt a bit off.
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 2 | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Slavko be - with S | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
One move wonder.
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
VDD right | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Letecka Dijana | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazing and bouldery line. Thanks to Itchy for the beta! It feels like 7a+ with a dynamic start to the left.
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Thu 14th Apr 2022 - Bislimska klisura | |||||||
WADI RUM | |||||||
5a 5b | ★★★ Petra | 11m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a great place and routes!
Big thanks to all the developers - it was a pleasure to spend a day at Bislimska klisura!
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Thu 17th Jun 2021 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Drakula | 8m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very sharp
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Wed 2nd Jun 2021 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 3 | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Tara | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sharp
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5b+ 5c | ★ Some technik | 8m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slippery footholds
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Mon 27th May 2019 - Demir Kapija | |||||||
KLENOV 2 | |||||||
6c+ 6c | ★★★ MC’s way | 45m | |||||
Climbing on razor blades.
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6c 6c+ | ★★ Aaron | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 1st Dec 2018 - Prilep | |||||||
Kamena baba | |||||||
6A | ★★ Kapitan torpeda | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Again nice warmup
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6A+ 5+ | ★★ Prilep super express | ★★ Very Good | |||||
It was described by the locals as 6b at 27crags its written as 5+, to me it seemed as 6a+/6b
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6C+ | ★★ So long marien | ★★ Very Good | |||||
One-mover but very nice , got close on this one, nextime.
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6B | ★ Low life | ★ Good | |||||
Very low start hard for the tall.
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7A | ★★★ Dole | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Beatyfull traverse witu crux at the end .
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6C+ | ★★ Cocoon stand | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Got really close on this one ... nextime . One of the most beatyfull probs on prilep.
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7A | ★★★ Cocoon sit | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Couldnt really figure out the start but it doesnt seem so hard.
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