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Routes as trad in Paradiset

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Showing all 84 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Vågarisset
6+ Zig Zag Trad
8- Lofoten reality
1 6+
2 8-
3 7
4 7-
5 6

Tackles the line up the center of the cliff. Pitch 2 is the amazing Lofoten Reality roof crack.

FA: Helmut Gargitter & Paul Trenkwalder, 2011

Trad 160m, 5
6+ Vågarisset
1 6 30m
2 6+ 40m

A proud send from the 70s, this burly line is a test piece for wide crack enthusiasts. One of Lofotens best/worst pitches.., depending on how many #5s you can round up

  1. Climb the crack through a small roof onto a belay ledge at the bottom of the obvious crack.

  2. Follow wide crack up, bring plenty of big gear (#4, #5..)

FA: Hans Doseth, 1979

Trad 70m, 2
Dammen
7- No Place to Flounder Trad 10m
4+ Venstre risset Trad 10m
6 Venstre risset direkte Trad 10m
6- Tynn Trad 10m
4+ Sentrums risset Trad 10m
5 Krabbe Trad 10m
5+ Høyre risset Trad 10m
3+ Diederet Trad 10m
4+ Long lost cousin Trad
6- Biff Tartar Trad
7- Feber Trad
Dosethrisset
5- Sva magen
1 4+
2 5-
3 3

FA: Kari Hjelkrem, Ole Marius Gaupseth & Leif Gunnar Brandal, 2009

Trad 90m, 3
6- Jesus

FA: Bent Svinnung & Bjørn Braathen, 1982

Trad 15m
6 PROT:R Grandiosa

FA: Oskar Alexandersson

Trad
7 Dosethrisset

The lazer cut splitter going straight up the boulder. One of the best finger crack pitches at the grade in Lofoten

FA: Hans Doseth, 1979

Trad 15m
7+ Smutthullet

This strenuous but well protected crack trends left and finishes up Dosethrisset

FA: Daniel Bidner, 1990

Trad
6- PROT:R Gelbe kante

FA: Knut Storvik, 1984

Trad
Draughella
Ukjent 1 Trad
Ukjent 2 Trad
Ukjent 3 Trad
Ukjent 4 Trad
Ukjent 5 Trad
Main Cliff
5 Stormvarsel Trad
4+ Lett bris Trad
5+ Liten storm Trad
5+ Full storm Trad
6 Malabarsk Trad
6 Sterk storm Trad
5 Orkan Trad
5+ Sterk kuling Trad
4 Laber bris Trad
5+ Stiv kuling Trad
5+ Liten kuling Trad 20m
4 Bølgen

Starts Liten kuling and follow the moon shaped wide crack to reach the finishing holds of værvasel. Probably done before but couldn't find infos so proposing a name for it!

Trad
5+ Frisk bris Trad
5 Heavy Weather Trad
5 Værvarsel Trad
Svenske Diedret
6 PROT:R Love Me Two Times

Starts up the crack then heads right across the slab & up the arete. 3 bolts placed when sent but these were subsequently chopped. Now very bold & rarely repeated (if ever?).

FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Jensen, 1985

Trad 20m
6+ Svenske Diedret

The aesthetic dihedral. Takes small wires

FA: Some Swedes, 1980

Trad 20m
6- PROT:R Kakadu

Traverse across the slab to reach better pro in the corner

FA: krister jonsson, 1996

Trad 24m
3 Liten og lett Trad 10m
5 Liten diagonal Trad 10m
5+ Lille veggen direkte Trad
4+ Lille høyre Trad
Butter Arms
5+ Cant believe its not butter

Found on the left side of the "butter" boulder, when looking towards the sea. Offwith crack, with atletic start.

Trad
8+ Butter Arms Trad
8+ `Cos the shop burnt down Trad
7+ Butter biceps Trad
5+ Butt crack Trad
5 Butter Fingers Direct Trad
5 Butter Fingers

Nice sequence of easy craks and a bit of slab.

Trad 30m
3+ Butter Balls

Easy slabs and cracks to a tricky large crack at the end.

Trad 30m
6+ Rått kjøtt Trad
Storsvaet
3+ Back to Paradise Trad 27m
5- Bunkered paradise Trad
3+ Too Wide for Paradise Trad 27m
5+ Escape to paradise Trad
4 Storsvaet Trad 30m
6+ Heart of Paradise Trad
Living in Paradise
5+ X-citing Trad
7- Generation X Trad
6+ Ayers Rock Trad 20m
6+ A Cry in the Dark Trad 22m
5+ X-crement Trad
6 Paradise Regained Trad
5+ Traverse of the Cods Trad
5+ Seaside Special Trad
5 Living in Paradise Trad 20m
5 Lost in Paradise Trad
5 Lost in living Trad
Demonstranten
4 Demonstranten Trad
5+ Demon Rib Trad
5 Demonstranten direkte Trad
6+ Demo Route Trad
6- Master Class Trad
Kveldskosen / Dama Dablam
5+ Kyllingvingen Trad
7+ Smakløs, slem og slibrig Trad
7 Kveldskosen

The strenuous roof crack needs big cams & some determination.

Video beta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zKbG6W3tSZw

Trad
6+ Dama Dablam Trad
6 Cello Torre Trad
7- Trango towel Trad

Showing all 84 routes.

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