Nodes in Oceania

Arete past 2 ledges. 'Scoop' on R, then scoop on L to BR. Up then L over pedestal to double PR. Up, slightly R to ledge and BR. Up to R to belay block. Abseil from tree, 50m rope doubled just reaches ground.

Start: 8m R of 'Frigate'

Good short one to finish the day.

Start: 25m R of 'Frigate', 2m L of a largely free standing pillar.

Corner and seam. Finish up wall above.

Start: First proper buttress R of 'Sloop' [perhaps 70m R] as next section of cliff starts. I'm not certain about this route. But there is a fairly closed and dirty looking corner and seam that I assume is the route.

Quite good climbing, especially the first pitch. It is possible to abseil off after the first pitch.

Start: On the R side of the first solid buttress R of 'Starboard Bow'. 15m R of what I assume is Lost in the Wild, Wild Seas

1. 28m (18) Up shallow corner heading towards a small overhang at 6m. Exit L from the corner at the good holds. Nice climbing up the seams to stance below short corner, tricky moves up this to ledge.

2. 20m (19) 5m up chimney, R onto ledges, up R leading flake line to horizontal break, step out R and up onto narrow ledge on front of buttress. Up face to good ledge.

3. 10m (18) R hand crack in short wall then easily. Continue up easy ground to top or scramble down L to trees and abseil.

Two solid pitches.

Start: 5m R of 'Jamaica'. 10m L of 'Buccaneer' and 3m L of a chimney.

1. 27m (19) Thin crack to the second ledge.

2. 28m (20) From the next ledge climb awkward seam and step L to foot of middle crack,up this to terrace. Find tree to abseil off.

A bit artificial, struggles to keep out of the chimney.

Start: 'Arete' 2m R of SL

Gymnastic climbing on good rock.

Start: 3m R of BT. Finger crack and seams up the red buttress between the chimney on the L and the chimney of Buccaneer. Above the crux climb L arete to top of buttress. Descend as for BT from abseil tree.

Start: Initalled chimney 4m R of HA.

1. 35m (8) Climb the narrow chimney passing in front of 2 chockstones to the top of the boulder choke.

2. 33m (8) Up chimney 6m to chockstone. Traverse 10m L along ledge, cross scrubby gully and climb short wall. Continue to second wall and up this to ledge.

3. 13m (8) Climb wall R of crack.

Sustained and strenuous. P2 is an old fashioned wide crack thrutch. OK if you like that kind of thing. Take some big cams [BD4 x 2]

Start: Thin crack 4m R of 'Buccaneer'.

1. 28m (18) Thin crack to ledge with tree. Awkward moves up corner to pinnacle on R.

2. 30m (18) Traverse 2m L and up corner on suss rock to overhang. Up wide bulging crack to terrace. Abseil from tree down R.

Start: Around the arete R of Boys will be Buoys is a prominent crack line up the R wall of the buttress. 'Access' the ledge below the crack via the short wide crack or walk in from the R.

Steep and exciting climbing up to and up the crack. Take a large cam [BD4] for the top. Abseil off tree at top of crack.

After a reasonable first pitch the climb degenerates. Possible and best to abseil off after P2.

Start: 36m R of CF and 20m R of a landmark pinnacle leaning against the rock. Initialled corner.

1. 25m (16) Climb up to and up corner until 5m below overhang. Out R briefly onto wall then continue up corner and over overhang. Up until level with tree on R. Traverse to tree.

2. 20m (16) Climb V chimney and overhang. Up 2m then R across slab to stance. [Abseil tree across R from here]

3. 30m (-) Up R over hideous choss to foot of chimney.

4. 23m (-) Chimney to large chockstone.

5. 20m (-) Back into the bowels of the earth to emerge through a small hole.

Enormous R-facing corner system.

Barbican Rocks ends at a saddle 60m right of HH. Right of this is another cliff which is very mossy and lichenous. Beyond the Call of Duty is 120m right of this saddle, and 40 m left of the saddle at the far end.

Easy access, in a charming spot. It's a wonder why The First Dial is infrequently visited. There is a handful of excellent routes in the moderate grade range, but many below average in the easier grade. The First Dial faces East, giving it morning sun.

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Pull powerfully through the roof (watch the hollow flake!) and then up direct line.

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Superseeded by Intermission.

Classic of yester-year. Climb brittle rock for 5m, step left into a stance, clip an average looking carrot. Up through horizontals, before reaching a good stance out L. Step back right into thin crack and up through orange bulge, then L to ledge.

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

One of the best at the grade in the Grampians. Sustained on great rock and reasonable protection. 1 piton and 1 BR

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

The first Aussie female ascent at this grade, and an FA no less.

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Up line from pillar in front of cave between Empty Dreams and Bambino. Join Bambino at mantel and follow it to final overhang. Exit L.

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Short hand-crack (thin and bulging to start) at left end of best section of cliff, 70 m south of pinnacle and directly above the waterfall. At top of crack, traverse left to arete. Up.

Finger-crack in middle of best section of wall, 25 m right of Road Runner.

Chimney-crack up front of Coyote Pinnacle. Above ledge, take finger-crack, then face.

From the back of the pinnacle, go up left on easy blocks, then steeply up right.

An old fashioned cliff with an adventurous feel. Good single and multi-pitch routes at a variety of grades. Watch out for loose rock on less travelled routes. The guide for this area is out of print (South Eastern Grampians: A rock climbing guide, Chris Baxter/VCC 1991) and it may be hard to get a copy of it. A 40m section towards the left end of of the cliff has been irreprably damaged by the '06 bushfires.

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review

Prioritised for Review