Tonga Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Tonga 82 routes in Region

1

1 Eua

Summary:

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F

M

A

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J

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S

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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -20.028950, -175.443063

summary

The Kingdom of Tonga, in the South Pacific ocean, consists of 169 islands, of which 36 are inhabited. The island of Eua has a rapidly growing sport climbing scene which began in 2016.

description

For more information on the climbing on Eua and guidebook, please visit http://tonganrock.org/

access issues

The majority of climbing is on the King’s estate and access is a privilege granted by the King’s Office, not a right. An access arrangement has been negotiated but could be withdrawn at any time by the King’s Office.

Before climbing on ‘Eua, all visitors must agree to the Disclaimer (http://tonganrock.azurewebsites.net/climbing/climbers-registration/) and pay a land management levy of T$20.

You must also agree to abide by the Climber’s Code of Conduct (http://www.tonganrock.org/climbing/climbers-code-of-conduct/).

approach

The beautiful island of ‘Eua is just a 10 minute flight or 3 hour ferry from Nuku’alofa, which itself is just 3 or 4 1/2 hours flight from Auckland or Sydney respectively. Alternatively, you can fly to Nuku’alofa from Fiji or Samoa.

where to stay

There are four main accommodation places:

• Ovava Tree Lodge has eight units, there is also a small area where camping may also be possible and you can use their kitchen for a fee.
• Hideaway Resort has around twelve rooms.
• Taina’s Place has bungalows and a campsite.
• Deep Resort which has four units.

ethic

All bolts are titanium 110mm x 10mm glue in P-style ring bolts. The resin used in 2016 and 2017 was Hilti HIT-HY 200 R.

1.1. Eua 82 routes in Crag

2 1 3 4

1 Fangatave Beach 2 Northwestern Beach crags 3 the Lost Walls 4 Laku Fa'anga

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.366906, -174.940030

summary

The island of 'Eua ("aye-wah") is part of the Kingdom of Tonga. This small, rugged paradise offers steep limestone cliffs near the sea. A (very) adventurous, exotic destination for sport climbers

description

Single- and multi-pitch sport climbing on steep limestone in a beautiful but somewhat remote area. All routes are equipped with glue-in titanium ring bolts. Since 2020, tourism has been affected by a massive cyclone, COVID and the tsunami waves which followed the massive Hunga-Tonga volcanic eruption. It's still a great place to visit however, but it'll take some planning as accommodation options are limited. You'll also need to rent a vehicle or take a bike.

access issues

There was a T$20 climbers registration fee and an admin fee of T$5. But this fee has been postponed until a local operator is organised to collect it. Please remember that climbing is on the Kings estate and access is a privilege granted by the Kings Office, not a right. We are guests on their land - please act accordingly. Some areas are accessed via private farm land. Do not pass padlocked gates - find another way.

approach

Make your way to Tonga, most likely by plane from e.g. Auckland or Sydney. From there you either go to 'Eua by boat (3 hrs) or plane (10 mins). Neither operate on Sundays in accordance with Sabbath law. Most tracks are rudimentary and there are no signs, so you'll need a mobile app which caches OpenStreetMap offline and some navigation skills. All climbing tracks and crags are clearly marked on OpenStreetMap.

where to stay

The main accommodation places are:

• AirBnB houses - currently the best option for groups.
• 'Alakoka Tahi Moana' at Kiko's place with a couple of guest rooms, restaurant, pool table and possible kitchen use. (www.facebook.com/messages/t/796250797151357)
• Taina’s Place - is getting back on its feet, in the middle of the island, but may allow camping. (tainasplace@gmail.com)
• Ovava Tree Lodge was the main climber accommodation but was destroyed by a cyclone and the tsunami waves following the Hunga-Tonga eruption.
• Hideaway Resort was also destroyed.
• Bluewater Resort only accepts 7 day whale swimming package bookings.

Other useful links: Government tourism site

Lonely Planet – Tonga - Eua

ethic

To ensure climbers can enjoy this special place it is critical that climbing is supported by the local community. To help achieve this the Kaka Maka Group has been formed as a partnership between climbers, the Kings Office and the Eua Tourism Association to develop ‘Eua as an international climbing destination. Contact them by email: kakamakaeua@gmail.com

history

In Aug 2016, a small team from NZ & Australia visited Eua and assessed the viability for climbing on it's large limestone cliffs.

Check out this video for more details on climbing in Eua: https://youtu.be/JABZrTUpZUg

1.1.1. Fangatave Beach 60 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.305835, -174.916623

1.1.2. Northwestern Beach crags 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.287737, -174.924499

summary

A cliché paradisiacal beach with a few choice lines (so far).

description

Beaches on the North West of the island.

access issues

You can climb at Olu sea cliff 3.5 hrs either side of low tide. Consider warming up at Houma-Tahi Arch if the tide is high. Access is via private farm/plantation tracks. Respect the locals, who may be surprised to see you out here. Don't pass chained or locked gates. Expect to get your feet wet for Olu.

approach

Drive 500m past Houma on a mud road, veer left and park 500m further on, before to road heads downhill. The mud track deteriorates from here and becomes slippery after rain.

ethic

Please set an anchor if top-roping and don't go direct through the bolts. Rap/abseil off to clean.

1.1.3. the Lost Walls 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.398356, -174.903009

description

Inside 'Eua National park, which is located on the East side of 'Eua, South of Lokupo beach. The jungle is mature and full rare creatures. At the base, a freshwater stream tumbles out from the jungle into the sea.Spectacular, and shadey.

approach

Up the road past Tinas place and the antenna tower, an overgrown sign indicates the forestry land up top of the plateau. Turn off the 4wd road as near to the upper cliff band as possible, and you will find a steep descent path at the break, less than 100m from the road.

descent notes

Once down from the upper cliff band, and through the middle forest floor, you should reach the lower cliff band at the break with the "Broken cave". This allows passage to the lower section and eventually down to sea level. Take a torch and check out the cave!

history

Initially spotted from a boat tour, Tony Burnell Initially found the way down and spread word of the lost walls. In 2018, Greg Jack and Josh Merriam explored the area extensively on foot and marked a trail. Then in 2019 the access was cleared and improved, and the first routes established.

1.1.4. Laku Fa'anga 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -21.448690, -174.904198

summary

There's only a few hard routes here, but lots of further potential.

description

The collection of crags and cliffs on the southern tip of 'Eua.

access issues

The main access issue is nesting sea birds, particularly the majestic Booby. If a fledgling is nested on the ledge between access rappels, you will not be able to pass without endangering its life. Don't. Alternatively, you can rap one of the two climbs that top out, and climb out, but ensure you're very confident leading exposed, grade 24.

approach

Drive to the south end of the island on the main road, pass the sliding gate, park then hike across the fields past the rock gardens and wild horses, across the massive arch to the various crags. There are rap bolts mounted on a prominent rock at the edge of the precipice. Two raps, separated by a ledge gets you down. Re-belay on the second anchor. Leave the rope in case you can't climb out. Consider edge protection.

history

The North Face athletes Angie Scarth-Johnson and Lee Cossey established the first routes here in October 2018.