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Ascents in Peretele Văii Albe

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Showing all 4 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Coștila
Peretele Văii Albe
5 ~Ac Lespezi - with andrei badea
1 3 Second lead by andrei badea
2 5 Second lead by andrei badea
3 1 Second lead by andrei badea
4 4 Second lead by andrei badea
5 5 Second lead by andrei badea
Trad
Ruxandra V
Partner not feeling well. From the Great Traverse, one can retreat down to the Sarutul Pamantului belay on Terenul de Fotbal in 1 55m rap, and then down the line of the route.

At least I know the way now.

 
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Coștila
Peretele Văii Albe
5 - 6+ A0 Lespezi Trad Good
Sabina D.
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Coștila
Peretele Văii Albe
5 - 6+ A0 Hard Lespezi Trad Classic
Maier Horatiu
Thu 16th Aug 2018 - Coștila
Peretele Văii Albe
8+ A1 8+ A1 Fisura Albastră Directă - with Cherecheș Cristian Trad Mega Classic
Bercean Ioan
Beautiful route. It took us 14 pitches. Couldn't figure out how to enter the overhang (and we didn't have a lot of time to try it). Cristi did the rest of the route clean. I took 2-3 falls and a few rests. We switched the lead. Took us around 11-13 hours, I think. Adding walking we ended up back to the refugee after around 15 hours.

First pitch is very easy but only have one piton and the top. Second still very easy Third is the football field (a big chuck of grass. We didn't use the rope here since it was useless) Next 2 lengths still pretty easy.

At some point (I think around pitch 6-7) we got confused and we did a length from Emilian Cristea memorial by mistake (going straight up instead of right trying to avoid missing the overhang).

Before the overhang we decided to link to pitches because the intermediate top from bivouac 3 wasn't in the best shape and we read that with 6-7 quickdraw you can get to the next one which had 3 spits. We didn't had twin ropes so continuing with only one rope I feel like it was questionable, but also I am not sure if regrouping there would have been better. Anyway I took a 6-7 meeters fall because I got tired and the rope was really hard to drag, but after some rest we got to the "big ceil".

We could enter it free climbing so we used a quickdraw as a hand hold to enter the overhang, the rest is not very hard, but it is quite tiring (as any overhang). Needed a quick reset before exiting the overhang but just because I don't have the best endurance when it comes to overhangs. Would suggest to the lead to out the next good quickdraw after the top of the ceil before belaying to avoid factor 2 falls (about the 3rd one)

Next length is the only one with pretty unsafe pitons. A lot of them are moving, one even came out with the quickdraw. But is not life threating since there are a lot of them, and some are stable. The climb is also pretty easy.

Next pitch is the last. Up to first quickdraw can be scary, because you start from a ledge and it is about 4-5 meters up to it. But is easy and stable rock. Close to the end you have a small decent (~1 m ) to a traverse called "the wooden leg". The lead might be tempted to move the same quickdraw from a piton to another because you are stuck in a crack, but I would advise to avoid it because the second rope might take a bad fall if he falls at the beginning of the traverse.

 

Showing all 4 ascents.

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