Ascents: Ascents in Colţul Mălinului

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Tue 2nd May 2023 - Coștila
Colţul Mălinului
	WI2 M4	★★★ Hornul Ascuns - with andrei badea 1 WI2 35 Alpine lead by andrei badea Fell on my tools once as I blew a foot when the thin ice I placed it in peeled off. 2 M4 Alpine lead by andrei badea Interesting leftward traverse right at the start of the pitch (we protected it with a small friend a couple of meters above the belay, allowing the leader to do the traverse on toprope, then the leader clipped into the first piton and I went and recuperated the friend while tied in to the belay with just enough rope to reach it,to prevent the rope literally going Z-shaped). Interesting exit to the belay too, in summer you chimney it, leader did a pull-up on tools stuck into frozen turf (taller than me) and I did a summer-winter maneuver where I hooked an icicle with one tool (instead of the summer hold, now iced up), to allow me to layback my feet on the left wall for a couple moves until I could reach the chimneyish part.	Alpine 35m	★★★ Mega Classic	Ruxandra V
The mixed climbing I've been dreaming of this winter. Unlike the rest of 'em, this is really really good in spring.
	5	★★★ Creasta Mălinului - with andrei badea 6 Second 7 Second Bunch of mobiles mostly used so we don't trip on the rope	Trad	★★★ Classic	Ruxandra V
Exit from Hornul Ascuns. High sun, high wind, perfect snow. Traverses even easier than in summer
Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Coștila
Colţul Mălinului
	3	★★★ Creasta Mălinului - with edy, dorin vraja 6 2 40 Trad lead by Ruxandra V this is so much easier when it's dry... 7 3 30 Trad lead by Ruxandra V Climbed down to the Hornul Ascuns belay station since we wanted to rappel-spy a certain crack	Trad 70m	★★★ Classic	Ruxandra V
In reverse
Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Coștila
Colţul Mălinului
	5-	Muchia de Sus din Creasta Frumoasă (Muchia de Sus din Creasta Frumoasă Linkup Hornul Ascuns) - with edy 1 5- 30 linkup Hornul Ascuns 2 3+ 20	Alpine 50m		Ruxandra V
Start-of-the-mixed-climbing-season, unfortunately for us we were still in summer gear and had 1 icetool between us, brought to use as a piton hammer. Snowed up holds made life a tad interesting. We climbed P1 in a version that felt more like 5 UIAA on account of needing to skip a bunch of good but slippery-when-wet holds (leader needed to do a rather iffy traverse, I went more straight up. Aided my way through the start by means of footloop through the piton since there was no way in hell I was switching to climbing shoes and getting frostnip on my toes as well as on my fingers. For P2, Edy initially tried the Nae Dimitriu crack version, took 3 lead falls on it (the crux is an overhanging move that was tried with a single icetool in a really dirty portion of the crack), then changed plans and traversed into Hornul Ascuns and climbed that. We left a piton a few meters below the crux in the Dimitriu crack, it had been equalized with a DMM #5 wallnut when holding the falls. If using a non-extending quickdraw in the first piton in HA after the traverse, the rope will likely end up in a stone V and make life relatively unpleasant.
Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Coștila
Colţul Mălinului
	3	★★★ Creasta Mălinului - with edy 6 3 30m Trad lead by Ruxandra V Took the lead on this one since it started with 10m of downclimb. Fun traverse, felt significantly easier than Acul Mare. 7 2 40m Second lead by edy Horizontal wall traverse on good holds, with an annoying iced-up portion 30m in. We only had a 30m half-rope, btw, so we ended up doing a 2-stacked-pitons-and-1-icetool belay (not left in place ) right after the icy bit (which we avoided by climbing below it) and then we switched leads for the 10m up to the boulder belay at the entrance in Valea Tapului but that was a 1 UIAA portion where the only difficulty of making sure the snow didn't hide ice	Trad 70m	★★★ Classic	Ruxandra V
After exiting our Muchia de sus din Creasta frumoasa/Hornul Ascuns linkup

Start-of-the-mixed-climbing-season, unfortunately for us we were still in summer gear and had 1 icetool between us, brought to use as a piton hammer. Snowed up holds made life a tad interesting.

We climbed P1 in a version that felt more like 5 UIAA on account of needing to skip a bunch of good but slippery-when-wet holds (leader needed to do a rather iffy traverse, I went more straight up. Aided my way through the start by means of footloop through the piton since there was no way in hell I was switching to climbing shoes and getting frostnip on my toes as well as on my fingers.

For P2, Edy initially tried the Nae Dimitriu crack version, took 3 lead falls on it (the crux is an overhanging move that was tried with a single icetool in a really dirty portion of the crack), then changed plans and traversed into Hornul Ascuns and climbed that. We left a piton a few meters below the crux in the Dimitriu crack, it had been equalized with a DMM #5 wallnut when holding the falls. If using a non-extending quickdraw in the first piton in HA after the traverse, the rope will likely end up in a stone V and make life relatively unpleasant.

Ascents in Colţul Mălinului

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