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Ascents in Suhardul Mic as Tick

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Showing all 13 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
6 A1 ~7 Pintenul Suhardului - with Valentin Chiriac
1 5 A1 50 Aid lead by Valentin Chiriac

7+ rotpunkt, probably. Not an easy 30m of vertical to overhanging crack. Probably aidable with mobiles, but the mobiles were mostly above me at this point, so I climbed my own rope for a bit. A small bit, though. After unholy-aiding my way through the crack, I reached easier terrain, a belay station on pitons (did not use, it's uncomfy and cold) and the 20m of grass that make up the original p2. The belay station is also on 2 pitons but there's also a great placement for a black Totem to the right. Plus it's comfy and in the sun.

2 6 A1 40 Aid lead by Valentin Chiriac

Oblique traverse up-right for ~8m under an arch (easy, slabby terrain)then pull on a loop of cord and climb a juniper tree to reach the Dihedral. The Dihedral is beautiful. There's ~20m of it, left side is smooth slab with the rare occasional pocket (fun high feet!) , right side is a crack edge that almost but not quite works for a good layback, plus quite a bit more Good Feet than the left side. So it all works out in a not-quite-layback, not-quite-spraitz kind of way, 7 UIAA at the least. Personally, I fraided it but mostly aided it, rested on the rope for aaages with the justification that I was Cleaning Shit Up, managed to pull out 2 friends (small, non-Totem) by falling on the rope from above them with my PAS still clipped in them (everything Totem or larger than 0.75 stayed in though, I fell on the rope with the PAS still clipped on pro below me a lot ) , then went off-route on a bit of dirty slab traverse back and forth (4 UIAA) to avoid a small overhang on the actual line of the route and then climbed back up, past the original piton belay (please leave the bailout biner alone if you visit, it's 15 years old and brings Memories for my partner) and up on a lovely ridge where my partner was belaying me on the first tree

3 3 50 Second lead by Valentin Chiriac

Theoretically, the non-pitched retreat of the route. Practically, if you take a slip on the scree there's a fair chance you'll rocket over the edge of the wall so gather up n-1 ropes and continue on a single one (it's fine if it's a half-rope, anything factor-y is highly unlikely). Continue on the grassy ridge, go above the large pine, onto the scree tongue (this way, if you slip on it, rope will catch on the tree) and upwards towards a gentle chimney with a couple boulders stuck in it. If you're my height (163cm) it's just perfect for levitating up it in opposition, you won't even touch a Proper Hold until you're out of it. Like a small, fussy, highly indulgent dessert after a heavy 2-course meal. Belay at the trees and then the last rope can be packed up

Trad 140m Classic
Ruxandra V
There's a beautiful, beautiful route to be dug out of way more dirt than we could dig out in one day. 2 lovely crack length separated by a walk up grass, with a bijou scrambling dessert at the end. All on pitons including the intermediate belay, lots of options for mobiles (esp. small friends, but larger ones and nuts of all sizes may also find a place)

 
7 A1 Hard Diedrul Cuiburilor de Şoimi - with Valentin Chiriac
1 7 50 Second lead by Valentin Chiriac

Started on easy, slabby terrain, traversed right after a tree (skipped the old belay) and then headed up on the most beautiful limestone crack I've ever touched. It's red and velvety, rounded just enough that it won't bite (but holds feel super secure), not friable at all and extremely adherent for limestone. When it overhangs, you have good feet, but suffering from a lack of trust I rested on the rope a bit. Next time.

2 5- 25 Trad lead by Ruxandra V

The easy pitch, one long dihedral with good feet all over - the occasional overhangy boulder, but good holds and nothing hard. A bit more loosely pitoned than I'd have liked, so I ended up using a few nuts and quite a few more draws than hoped, so after a bit of a discussion with my partner on whether I'll have enough left to reach the belay I couldn't see, I decided to stop at an old belay station (2 pitons to the right, plus the last piton in the dihedral was close enough that I could use it for vertical pull). Of course, 30 seconds after my partner starts climbing I notice the real belay station less than 10m above me - and yup, I'd have had enough draws left

3 5 A1 50 Aid lead by Valentin Chiriac

This was the last few meters of pitch 2 (easy, 4+ UIAA maybe?) and the real p3. Starts with a vertical crack with rather iffy holds (7/7+?) that leads into a dihedral. First piton is quite high in the crack, and I pulled out the nut we used as a Jesus piece and fell down with it below the belay, freaked out a bit (if I don't pull outwards, what if I hit the ledge from rope stretch?) and decided to abuse the fact that the nuts had been left with me to aid my way through the whole damn crack Don't ask me how you can aid climb for 4 nuts on 1 aider without ever touching rock since I can't explain, it takes a bit of fiddling with one's PAS, but it worked, and I was into the dihedral and then on the ridge which were far easier.

Trad 130m Mega Classic
Ruxandra V
Far less friable than the legend says. The legend of the red rock crack in p1 (the original p2) is well deserved though - never touched such beautiful, velvety, adherent limestone in my life.

 
Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
6 A0 ~A0 ~6+ Creasta Hornului Roşu - with Dorin Bercea, Marian Anghel
1 5+ 30 Second lead by Marian Anghel

Fun chimney, not as friable as the legend says. Had to take my backpack off

2 6 A0 45 Aid lead by Marian Anghel

Starts with a crack dihedral with a rather balancy crux that's easily cheated by means of pulling on a cordelette loop in a piton (which I did). Then you head right and up a chimney with good holds on the left side and very few holds on the right side. Cool kids layback the left side holds, but I took my backpack off and wormed my way through it instead.

3 5+ 45 Second lead by Marian Anghel

Now life stops being strenuous. It's all about good feet, trusting your balance and pressing rather than pulling on loose holds

4 4+ 60 Second lead by Marian Anghel

Ridge pitch, one big rock slab waiting to fall in the belay that you need to climb nevertheless,. but very carefully. Make sure you sling the last rock spike, since if you protect it alpine style by tossing the ropes around it they'll untoss themselves as you climb onward on bushy easy slopes, and give your second a 15m swing onto Fata Mare a Hornului. First big flight of my life. Fata Mare a Hornului, btw, is grassy friable bullshit and not really worth climbing.

Mixed trad 180m, 10 Very Good
Ruxandra V
Sat 14th May 2022 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
7- A1 Creasta Hornului Roşu Mixed trad 180m, 10 Mega Classic
Golodin Iustin
Sat 7th May 2022 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
6b+ A1 Diedrul Cuiburilor de Şoimi - with Golodin Iustin
1 5c A0 27
2 6b+ A1 20
Trad 47m Mega Classic
Andrei Verdeanu
Had to bail after the 2nd pitch, too difficult for my second, also, started raining 😆

 
Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
6b A1 Fisura Centrală - with Valentin Chiriac
1 2 15m lead by Valentin Chiriac
2 6b A1 40m lead by Valentin Chiriac
3 4c 25m lead by Valentin Chiriac
Trad 80m
Ruxandra V
Got through p2 by artificial means: quickdraws, swearwords, improvised aiders and tears. Feel slightly better about it now that I've been informed that it was originally intended as an aid length. Very cool crack climb but above my current paygrade unfortunately. For p3 we did the classic version which leaves the crack for a friable but very easy traverse.

 
Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
7- A1 7- A1 - 2 Traseul Genţianei Trad 69m
Stefan Ionita
Wed 21st Jul 2021 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
7- A1 7- A1 - 2 Traseul Genţianei Trad 69m
Răzvan Ababei
Tue 25th May 2021 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
7- A1 7- A1 - 2 Traseul Genţianei Trad 69m
Bursuc Sergiu
7 A1 7/7+ Diedrul Cuiburilor de Şoimi Trad 120m
Bursuc Sergiu
C C/D Traseu Memorial Wild Ferenc Via ferrata 200m
Bursuc Sergiu
7- A1 7- A1 Fisura Centrală Trad 58m
Bursuc Sergiu
Sun 20th Sep 2020 - Bicaz Gorge
Suhardul Mic
6+ A1 Traseul Spintecăturii Trad 53m
Iliescu

Showing all 13 ascents.

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