The Nose Right Guide

First bolt is quite high, can place 1 piece of natural pro to protect first move. Enjoy the rappel peg on the key hold of the crux. Second pitch is dirty. Quicklinks in the anchor bolts of the second pitch replaced on 29 Feb 2020.

Has a chain anchor at the top.

This route has a lot of loose rock! Lead climber must be careful not to pull loose rocks down onto the belayer.

When placing gear in the crack be aware that in places the rock had softened due to water ingress.

• SS Chain anchor is located between Dragon Shit and Tu Shang Xi Lou (Alone Up the West Tower). Be careful at the approach to bolt 1 to 2 check for loose rock. Climb on the rock face and right corner ledge as much as possible avoiding inner corner Dragon shit (lots of wet dirt, soft rocks, sketchy).
• Caution: Lots of ants/insects in the area, those ants were crazy. Bring insect repellent.

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. This slab makes up the crux of the project route. (Alternatively, if this proves too hard, you can shimmy up the tree). From the top of the slab the route heads left, up 'blocky' steps which follow the dihedral. On topping out the dihedral continue up more slab with plentiful holds to the East Tower anchor.

This route is still a project.

Natural protection placements on this route are sparse, making this an extremely bold route if led as a trad route. Hairline cracks and fissures are sometimes the only option for Natural Pro. Ballnuts, micro-nuts, or very small cams may be handy for those brazen enough for a trad lead.

Due to the absence of good nat pro options, this route may lend itself nicely to being bolted for a sport route.

Update 2018 - the rock forming the crack system for the Climb has collapsed, the route no longer exists.

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. The slab is hard, and can be circumvented by climbing the tree, the 6a grade includes use of the tree.

From the top of the slab the route heads RIGHT up the CRACK!

Climb can be found around 50m to the right of dragon shit through the trees. Route is full of loose rock and dead wood. Starts running up tree roots using 2-3 girth-hitched slings as protection to the tree. It then traverses left across a ledge by a smaller tree where a trad anchor can be built. Area is uncleaned and unbolted so take care. Above this is project.

Bolt ladder to prepare Yosemite. Second pitch is A1/A2 to practice hook and micro cam