Routes in Dairy Farm for selected grade

Unstable rock on the first pitch but fun climb. Two chains but some rusty anchors, and now obstructed by a fallen dead tree that needs to be removed. Second pitch is slabby, then vertical. Second pitch has no anchor and ends at a small bolt and impossible to retreat without leaving gear. Old aluminum locking biner there left by previous climbers.

Runs up the ledges to the right of the main crack. Quite mossy. Guidebooks say Trad only but appears to be recently bolted.

Note: I think it's 11 bolts, but might have remembered wrong. Take a few extra just in case.

(sketchy) Traverse across the American Pie wall, starting from the Top of Pitch 1 on Stepping Up ABCD Wall. Finishes on top of American Pie.

Full 2-pitch climb starts at bottom of ABCD finishes on top of American Pie.

Keep to the right side of the hangars and use the corner. The variation which just goes directly up the face is 6b+.

Runs up short and sweet then traverses left to join baby star. BD C3 zero is required to protect the crux. Dangerous choss in the gully and single micro cam protects the crux, not for the faint of heart.

Some loose rocks on the route. Climb carefully and do not pull out rocks.

Has a chain anchor at the top.

This route has a lot of loose rock! Lead climber must be careful not to pull loose rocks down onto the belayer.

When placing gear in the crack be aware that in places the rock had softened due to water ingress.

• SS Chain anchor is located between Dragon Shit and Tu Shang Xi Lou (Alone Up the West Tower). Be careful at the approach to bolt 1 to 2 check for loose rock. Climb on the rock face and right corner ledge as much as possible avoiding inner corner Dragon shit (lots of wet dirt, soft rocks, sketchy).
• Caution: Lots of ants/insects in the area, those ants were crazy. Bring insect repellent.