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Direct Rock climbing 6 routes in cliff

Grade context: FR
Photos: 4
Ascents: 213

Access: Climbing Access in Dairy Farm

Latest update about discussions with NParks can be found here - https://www.change.org/p/national-parks-board-singapore-protect-rock-climbing-at-dairy-farm/u/30873370

If you are considering going climbing here, please understand, appreciate and accept the following -

Dairy Farm (DFQ) is a defunct granite quarry that was blast-mined when it was active. As such, the internal integrity of the walls is unknown and rock fall has been observed by climbers through the years.
DFQ is NOT a playground or a gym, where risks are minimised for you. Please ensure that you possess adequate outdoor climbing skills and are able to protect yourself.
There is a chance that you might be fined by NParks for going "off-trail" under park regulations.
Please practice good stewardship of the area and educate yourself on "Leave No Trace principles.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago - Edited about two years ago

3b+4a 4b+5a 5b+6a 6b

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Description

The prominent cliff outcrop on the left, as you walk in from Dairy Farm Road. Popular with beginners, due to the easy grades and obvious lines.

Some of routes were originally established as trad climbs, but have since been retro-bolted.

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Routes

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Stay left, up the gully. Very overgrown.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Anthony Seah, 1987

Can be climbed with slight variations. As noted in the "Climb Singapore" guidebook, the bolts were originally placed as a "secondary protection" to help beginners learn to how to place traditional protection. This explains why the 2 separate lines of bolts are everywhere but where you need them.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Anthony Seah, 1987

Climb the hand-crack, joins Lucky Draw Dihedral at the top, where it shares an anchor.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Hugh McLean, 1988

First move off the ground is reachy and likely the crux of the climb. Lots of rests on the route to allow you to place protection. Shares an anchor with Jam Bang.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Hugh McLean, 1988

To the right of lucky draw dihedral. Runs up the steps then left onto the face and follows the crack in the middle of the vertical face and the edge of the arête to the anchor. Requires micro-cams or ball-nuts to protect the crux move.