★★★ EIGHT TEQUILAS OF VALUE 21

This is a high-quality linkup of EIGHT MILES HIGH, SOMETHING OF VALUE, TEQUILA SUNRISE, TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC, and BLUE MOON

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. HEY JUDE starts from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake. This routes starts about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.

1. 45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge. Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE). (EMH)

2. 35m 18 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance. Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop. (EMH)

3. 35m 18 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. (EMH) Follow your nose route finding. Nothing too hard.

4. 20m 19 EMH takes the striking dihedral capped by a long roof. About 4m right of, this climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. (SOV)

5. 45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the leftleading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove. (TS)

6. 25m 19 Move up the crack to a rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right, below the aloe and grass clump. Step down and traverse right to stance where the rock turns to chicken heads. (SOV)

7. 20m 18 Climb up on chicken heads to the right of the aloe clump then trend leftwards above it, aiming for an undercling crack beneath a small roof. Traverse left here, with your feet above a second, lower roof to gain a small ledge in the break just beyond the left edge of the top roof. (SOV)

8. 30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge. (SOV)

9. 35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a ledge (TP)

10. 60m 21 Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope. Careful on this pitch – it sucks you in to a big lead-out. (BM). An easy alternative is to start 10m left around the corner and climb easy gnarly faces to the top.

11. 30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.