[22] 15m Climb the arête 3m to the right of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' . A bouldery & poorly protected start leads to easier climbing up to a roof which is passed on the right. Sneaky types may contrive to pre-place some gear from the tree to protect the start.
About 100m upstream of the easy descent gully at the upper campsite is a rock outcrop. The climb starts almost from stream level but about 30m away from the water on the true right of the kloof. The objective is a 25m face brushed by a tree at about 15m.
[21] 25m Start in the middle and climb diagonally left until the friend rail at 12m (18). Move right, and then continue straight up the face (reachy).
Variation:
Chicken out onto the arête (20) at 17m and doddle on up.
This climb starts upstream of the descent gully near the upper campsite, on the true right of the kloof. It starts in the recess 8m downstream of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' .
22m 15 Climb the recess/chimney. Finish through the crack on the left.
This route takes the arete between 'Dom's Party' and 'Callisto Crack' .
35m 19 Start as for 'Callisto Crack' , but when possible make a tricky step left to a small ledge. Move up to the base of a small cubby hole below the roof. A long move right brings one to the arete, the right hand face of which is easily followed to the same stance as 'Dom's Party' .
Note:
Gear is adequate and the route may be a bit reachy for shorter climbers.
The downstream facing open book to right of recess about 10m downstream of 'Callisto Crack' .
35m 16 Climb the open book moving through bulge at top.
Variation:
35m 16 Climb the open book until about 2/3 of the way to the top; Traverse right on rail and top out in the grove close to the arête. (Nov 2012 Dickie Talma,PW Nel,Wesley Black)
18m 27 Climb up to start easy section to ledge. Clip bolt and climb up arete past peg to roof. Pull through roof and top out. The peg can be backed up with a #00 technical friend.
20m upstream from the MCSA post, the buttress on the true right is split by a low-angle recess filled with tree routes.
[9] XXm Ascend this recess to 4m, and traverse left on a ledge. From the end of the ledge, step left and up onto another ledge and follow the recess to the top, stepping right at the end.
20m 15 Ascend the crack and face on the right hand side of the buttress with the Mountain Club of South Africa signboard below the crag at the top of Cedarberg. Climb a short crack system. Move right onto a ledge. Pull through the steep face above.
FA:C. Murch, D. Margetts, Martin Seegers & others, 1992
15m 25 Just right of 'Life After Enlightenment' there is a right-facing, black-streaked dihedral, with a roof and an old peg. The route goes straight up the dihedral and through the roof, onto a ledge. From this ledge, climb 'Scotsman's Safari' to top out.
Just right of 'Strange Days' , this is an extension to Shaun Harris' boulder problem GREEN BEETLE (7A+), found just left of the right-facing, black-streaked dihedral.
15m 27 Climb GREEN BEETLE, and then continue straight up. The route is naturally divided into three sections, followed by a top-out scramble. The middle section is the red point crux, with a very reachy move to a good rail (between the all three sections are good rails - the only places on the route to get in gear). Luckily the gear between section one and two is bomber, but the problem here is that you are well above your gear (small cam and a nut) when you go for the second rail, and the first gear rail is only 3.5m above deck. The second half of the route is super easy and also well protected. Sling the tree before the run-out scramble and finish the route.
Notes:
The line is very intimidating, as the gear placements are few and far between, with a possible deck fall if you miss the rail after the red-point crux.
The route was top-roped before being led.
Gear was placed on lead, except one piece, to protect the second section, to prevent the possible deck mentioned.
There is a buttress on the true right of the Mountain Club of South Africa sign. In the middle of the buttress there is a recess/corner. The climb takes the left hand corner in the recess.
[20] 10m
Climb the left hand corner with the crux just off the ground and continue up to a ledge and tree belay.
[17] 10m
Move up the middle of the face behind the ledge, pulling through a small overhang at the top.
The meeting place at the upper end of Cedarberg is an alcove formed by two rock walls meeting at a right-angle.
[10] 10m
Starts on the extreme left (downstream) corner of the left hand wall, and follow the easy scramble usually ascended to place top-ropes on other routes, stancing on the half-height ledge at the top of 'Riders on the Storm' .
[15] 10m
Moves right onto the on-angle face left of the second pitch of 'Strange Days' , and follow the polished, right-leaning water-grove to the top. The second pitch requires contortion and supplety unusual for the grade.
On small crag close to the upper campsite. Route follows right facing dihedral capped by overhang, about 20m from the campsite on the true right hand side of the river. Walk around corner to base of route.
[18] 20m Gain dihedral (and crack just to the right of it) by a tricky move, and continue to overhang. Through overhang on left to ledge, and up easy hand crack above.
Near the upper meeting place, left of 'Mercers Layback' the descent gully is formed by the main side of the kloof, and a broken buttress. Start on the stream-ward (down-hill) face of the buttress.
15m 14 Take the left-most hand crack (i.e. just left of 'Gorillas in the Mist' ). On the ledge at half-height, move right, and ascend the narrowing off-width.
Starts 70m downstream of easy descent gully from Twins campsite. A large sandy bay is evident at the right hand side where camping and fires have taken place. A steep arete and crack to the right can be seen at the front of the buttress (cairn).
[20] 25m Scramble up roots to ledge (4m). Climb easy slab above and awkward move onto block on left. Climb overhanging arete/crack to rest point and move up to the left past bollard on rounded rock to top.
About 100m downstream of the Mountain Club of South Africa signpost there is a buttress. There is a crack on the downstream side, climb the steep face 5m right of this crack.
A good short pitch to finish the day with. Opposite the Jubilee camp site is a descent path. Whilst descending this path a narrow chimney topped by an overhanging bulge is seen to the right. Next to this is a little wall split by a 1.3m crack. Inside the crack on the left hand side is a little flake at 3m.
[17] 13m Climb the crack to the ledge above, move right past gap until the top of the chimney is reached. Climb the bulge using jamming and bridging, then move up on the left wall to the top.
Comprises the lowest easy point of access on the right at the top end of the kloof. Commences about 20m downstream of 'Grey Gully' . The Twins provide an easy landmark for its location.
The climb starts approximately 20m downstream of 'Torch Route' , in a 90° corner directly opposite the large waterfall below 'Grey Gully' .
[15] 10m
Commence in a corner (beacon) with a narrow chimney wedged with large chockstones. Climb 5m to surmount the chockstones and then move left and climb the short sloping right hand face to the belay ledge (crux).
[15] 18m
Facing downstream, climb 1m on the right hand face to a triangular ledge using a one-finger pull-up (crux) then climb the sloping overhanging corner crack (crux) to a cubbyhole. From the back of the cubbyhole climb the crack to the right of a large tree branch, which touches the face, to a 1m wide ledge.
[15] 12m
From the right hand side of the ledge climb the slight recess for 4m, move left and climb the left hand corner of the free standing buttress to the top, exiting at the left (crux - no holds).
Note:
A good climb with adequate protection.(Previous editors note: It sounds a bit desperate for 15.)
FA:R.G. Gunn, J.G. Gunn, J. Ferrington & L. Ferrington, 1988
A route at the top of Cedarberg 15m down from '20th Century Youth' .
[17] 15m
Climb a short step into a recess with a slab. Move up the left hand crack on the slabs, moving out left onto a good ledge.
[15] 45m
Step over to the right (over the recess you have just climbed). Climb a short wall to a large ledge. Continue up a series of short walls maintaining the right hand end of each. Near the top move left and over onto the top boulders.
20m 21 Follow 'Naughty Daughter' up to the start of the hand-traverse rail; from here follow the natural continuation of the corner crack by lay-backing up to the overlap. (Crux). Pull through the overlap by using the crack on the right of the block. Continue up a pleasant face on the right to a ledge with good rap tree.
Start upstream from 'Twist and Shout' , immediately above the worm-hole descent.
[15] 20m
Climb the right hand crack topped by an overhang, hand-traverse left from under overhang to a ledge. Straight up a crack to easy ground and tree belay. Scramble up to next rock band.
[13] 20m
Climb a chimney which slants left. Then climb through an obvious recess.
[21] 30m Climb shallow corner and arete just left of 'Naughty Daughter' .When possible, move left onto wall above roof and follow thin curving crack to ledge.
Just downstream of the wormhole descent, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof.
[25] 30m
???1. 30m 25 Use roots to climb the left side of the cone. Climb the continuation crack which overhangs to begin with before tackling the roof crack. Gain slab above roof, and hence onto ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge.
[15] 18m
To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.
Variation:
2a. 18m 13 For a direct finish, belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top. (Mar 1974 J. Linke and T. Hoy)
Starts some 10-12m upstream of 'Golden Pitcher Crag' and finishes up the Golden Pitcher.
[13] 14m
Climb diagonally left 5m up slight recess to ledge. Climb face above to ledge.
12m 15 About 3m up crack just to right of trees, 3m layback to cubby hole, 3m up overhanging rock using good grips. Move 0,5m left to seat below broad overhang. Traverse right to broad ledge using small tree as handhold, followed by a dassie traverse.
9m 5 Climb on to large block. Traverse right 6m to stance at bottom of cubby hole.
9m 15 Ascend overhanging crack to leave cubby hole, using small holds on left hand side. Tree belay. Scramble 6m to base of "pitcher".
12m 7 Climb open book to broad ledge below "pitcher".
9m 15,A1 A shoulder or aid enables leader to reach small tree in crack. Make for second tree in cleft in centre of "pitcher".
12m 7 Ascend to top of "pitcher" from far side. The descent to the base of the "pitcher" on this side involves further grade 7 climbing.
[15] 15m Start some 9m to right of normal start. Move diagonally left 5m up easy rock to ledge below overhanging mantelshelf. Using small finger holds and a layback, mount mantelshelf. Move diagonally up left across fluted face to stance mentioned above.
Other variations consist of a grade 10 route which makes use of a root to the left of the original 15 route, or a direct ascent of a tree.
Starts from a wet sloping ledge below an undercut face approximately 10m to the left of 'Twist and Shout' .
[25] 20m
Start up undercut face from wet ledge and climb rails to traverse left to a peg. Step back right and climb blocks to roof, then left to follow discontinuous crack line through the roof to a ledge. Originally graded 23! Well protected, with good small cams at the now-redundant peg.
[23] 20m
Climb the interesting crack/groove through the overhang above and continue to a ledge.
Start on true right hand side of kloof about 15m downstream of 'Twist and Shout' . Shin diagonally up roots for 5m to a ledge beneath the obvious break.
[19] 25m Climb the recess for 8m to a ledge below a steep, smooth groove. Opt out and traverse 7m left around the corner to a large white tree at the base of second smooth steep recess. Climb this to top.
About 15m upstream from 'Church Window' is an easily seen small cave about 10m above the stream. To the right of it and slightly lower is another cave. The climb starts on the right side of this.
[15] 18m
After a slightly overhanging takeoff, move 2m left to a fault. Climb this, then step left into an open book and after an awkward move, ascend it to a ledge with a large block leaning against the face.
[15] 22m
Starting just left of the leaning block, climb on slightly loose holds up to a small overhang about 7m up. Move 2m left on an excellent handrail across a gap to easier rock. Ascend 4m then move left onto a flat face with good holds. Climb this to ledge.
[11] 12m
Take obvious route up rough face with rounded holds to the top.
[23] XXm Starts at the same place as 'Church Window' and moves up the 'Church Window' open book for 6m before moving right onto the right hand face. Follow the vertical crack on the face for 2m until just under a 3/4m roof. Crank the roof off of a good undercling onto tiny finger grips in the open book above. Continue up for the next 10-15m until a tree.
Situated on the line of a deep recess about 110m below a broken bay and almost immediately opposite a small cave on the left of the kloof at ground level. The climb is on the immediate upstream side of a definite rock ridge projecting into the kloof.
[6] 23m
A 2m climb from stream level into niche below overhang. Upwards, bearing to left into depths of recess where crack leads to belay behind tree.
[8] 20m
From first stance ease left to outside edge of recess then upwards on ridge to small band thence to right in exposed position on good flat stance.
[8] 37m
On red rock immediately above bushes behind second stance. A grade 13 variation is possible.
[19] XXm Climb the overhanging face to the left of 'Church Window' for 15m before linking with 'Church Window' . Gear good even though it looks quite bad.
About 40m downstream of 'Church Window' a number of boulders block the stream over which you have to scramble. The climb is just downstream of these boulders on the true right. The climb starts in a 4m high dihedral.
[6] 24m
From the base of the climb you can see a short (2m) chimney about 20m above you. Just above the chimney is a tree, this is the first belay. Climb up the dihedral, go up and right until you are at the same height as the chimney but 3m right of it. Traverse over sloping holds on ramp to the tree.
[10] 15m
Behind the tree is a large chimney/crack with some chockstones at the top. Climb this. Above the crack step left and climb the next crack, also with chockstones above. Belay on short stamvrug tree at the base of a large cave/chimney. Don't go left around the first crack; the climbing looks easy and the protection is good but you will end up just a little above the small tree for the belay and the rock is a bit too chossy at this point for a good anchor.
[7] 25m
Walk into cave/chimney around the corner where it makes a left turn. Walk out onto outcrop and take in the exposure (you can belay here if the rope drag is too much). Then go back and continue up chimney and then left to a large ledge with a tree belay.
On right of ledge is a boulder, climb over this and scramble down gully to a large tree and abseil down. (46m to bottom)
Alternative to pitch 1 (12): Climb the chimney instead of going around it.
Optional pitch 4 (9m, 7): To top out: On the right of the ledge on top of pitch 3 is a boulder. From this boulder up about 1m then traverse left until you can easily scramble to the top. From here walk right to a point above the big abseil tree mentioned above in this description and make a short abseil to it and then a long abseil to the bottom..
Commences on the ridge immediately downstream of 'Labyrinth' recess. An inverted V ending in a very narrow crack like an inverted funnel - to the right of the prominent red overhangs and about 25m above stream - forms a very good landmark. Two large trees locate the bottom pitch.
[13]25m
Starting a few meters to the left of the lower tree, the route ascends diagonally upwards to the left over a series of steps to about 8m above the stream. Thence upwards to a few meters below the sloping face forming the inverted V. Then traverse to the right to a small stance on the corner about 2m below the right edge of the inverted V. The belay is through an eye through the rock on the corner. The right hand edge of the eye is a "loosish" rock but the belay is good.
[16] 15m
Commence by climbing the right hand edge of inverted V as close to overhang as possible, for 5m then traverse to left hand side of V. The ascent continues up the left hand red face to the top of the inverted V. Up to this point the climbing is delicate. Care is necessary to avoid loose rock. Good belay available on ledge on left at top of inverted V.
[11] 22m
Straight up face to immediately left of chimney leading up from stance. Good typical Cedarberg holds.
[6] 25m
The final pitch is mild and many routes may be chosen.
Note:
From third stance a series of fascinating tunnels will be seen. One of these forms a gash parallel to the face just climbed. It is possible to chimney down this tunnel to the bottom 9m below. A second tunnel curves down towards the right and may be descended to join Labyrinth route. It is possible to girdle the crag by means of a traverse across the face and ascend at corner.
FA:C. Nicholls, D. Abercrombie & B.I. Harris, 1939
The route ascends the steep red face immediately downstream of 'Red Falcon Crag' . Start 9m downstream of the tree which marks the start of 'Red Falcon Crag' . Scramble 3m to a ledge.
[10] 9m
Ascend diagonally left over ledges and reach up to a small tree then move left to two large trees and belay in broken corner.
[17] 18m
Move back right to the small trees and up right into a shallow scoop in the whitish face (immediately above the start). Ascend to a small overhang and traverse right under the nose then up 3m to a sitting stance in the upstream facing corner. Belays on a block on the nose and peg.
[17] 12m
Move up onto the nose and diagonally left to a square ledge. Ascend the steep face above strenuously then move right to a tree belay.
[15] 28m
Traverse 6m back left and up left onto a block. Ascend steeply up left on good holds towards the arete. Continue up about 3m right of the arete to a tree belay. A delightful pitch with good protection and incut holds.
The objective is the crack directly above the apex of the "inverted V" of 'Red Falcon Crag' . Start about 8m downstream of the tree marking the start of 'Red Falcon Crag' .
[17] 30m
Climb the recess/crack system leading up to the short pillar at the base of the left hand side of the "inverted V". Continue directly up to the apex of the "V", and step left to a ledge (stance shared with 'Red Falcon Crag' ).
Between 'Deception' and 'Red Falcon Crag' is "overhanging rock". A buttress starts from wide ledges about 18m above the kloof bed. On the right hand side of the buttress is a prominent steep black groove. 'Black Shadow' gains this using a large flake on the left to avoid the initial overhanging section. On the left side of the buttress is a shallow groove leading onto a slanting slab and this is the line of 'Heatstorm'
Scramble to the large ledges at base of the buttress and block belay near the start of the obvious flake crack.
[15] 18m
Climb the flake crack for 5m to where it steepens. Traverse right (awkward) to a good ledge, move up and walk right on top of the flake into the black groove. Move up to a tree belay in a cave.
(See comment in 'Black Shadow' )
Scramble to the large ledges at the base of the buttress and tree belay just to the left of the short steep wall below the shallow groove.
18m 18 Ascend a short overhanging wall and continue directly up the shallow groove to a small stance and peg belay on the left, below the slanting wall.
30m 20 Move right, gain the slanting slab and follow it right. On reaching the top right extremity of the slab, step down below a small overhang and gain the undercut slab on the right, moving past a peg (in place). Cross this using flakes in the roof, reach up to a block and swing round into a recess and a good resting place. Move up to the overhang, step left onto protruding blocks and surmount the overhang to a large flake. A short groove leads to scrambling to the top. A serious pitch due to dubious rock and considerable exposure.
Climb up to tree and continue upwards behind tree to a high level traverse to the left. Traverse left around corner and continue to small stance in niche below main overhang.
[19] 17m
Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with hand jam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.
[13] 34m
A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few meters then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.
On a subsequent occasion a more direct first pitch was opened, which, owing to dampness, was avoided by opening party.
[19] 22m
About 25m upstream of swimming pool is a wet vegetated groove. Start 3m left of the wet groove and move up to a nose, then traverse left across a slab to the bottom of a short corner. Move up this awkwardly to a large ledge which is traversed right for 8m to the steep crack above the wet groove. Move up and using a flake on the right wall, make a difficult move past the overhanging block to a niche. Continue up a steep funnel to another niche and peg belay below the main overhang.
[19] 17m
Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with hand jam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.
[13] 34m
A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few meters then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.
This route starts between 'Cedarberg Traverse' and 'Adrenalin' . About 10m left of 'Adrenalin' there is a short recess, usually a bit damp, with an old peg visible about 4m above ground level. The first pitch has obviously been climbed before but is not written up.
[19] 30m
Climb the recess to a good ledge. Walk right about 5m to another break and climb this to a small ledge on the right where another old peg is to be found. A difficult move up and left brings you onto easier rock. Climb upwards and tending left to ledge which is at the same level as 'Cedarberg Traverse' . Dassie crawl right along the ledge to a large ledge which is about 10m to the right of 'Cedarberg Traverse' .
[20] 45m
Above is an impressive corner. Climb up 15m to a small overhang (15). A difficult move right, around the corner, brings you into a small recess. Continue with difficulty horizontally right into a further recess. Up slightly and then traverse onto a stance common with 'Adrenalin' . Continue up easy rock to the top.
Start at the gray end of the face 7m upstream of 'Cedarberg Traverse' (the tree roots a few meters from the swimming pool).
[17] 20m
From directly below the face climb up onto ledge (3m). Climb the roots and then move diagonally right into recess. Traverse 2m right and then up for 3m to awkward ledge. Move back 3m to good stance.
[24] 20m
Start 3m right of 'Auspice' . Climb steep root into left facing open book. Continue up greasy corner to small overlap. Move right round corner and up to another small overhang. Make short move left and up to join the final right traverse of 'Auspice' (good jams). Make tricky moves up right to stance in the base of the left facing corner.
[23] 25m
Continue up pink corner and then straight up orange rock for 5m to a good rail. Move left to good jams and good gear. Finish off up "V" at left end of rail.
The climb is just about opposite Frog Gully and starts up 'Doggle'.
Start as for 'Doggle', pull into the white corner (high nut), exit it, to easy layback slab rests, then move left to a huge loose looking white jug and more shaking to prepare. Move up the chunky arete to a flat hand-shelf, then forge on up the headwall on slopy jugs moving left to last gear in a finger-sized horizontal break (helluva pumpy to place, small cam and nut) then some more hard moves on fingers to reach left to a big hidden undercling far out left, then way run-out grabbing of semi jugs and the finishing jugs.
Opposite Frog Gully is a whitish face which is topped by a prominent overhang over 100m long. Broadly the route ascends this face a bit to the right of its centre, up to the overhang, makes a long traverse left to the end of the overhang, ascends vertically and then diagonally right above the latter overhang, and finally reaches the top through a gap in the second minor overhang.
[8] 18m
The start is a few meters from the lower swimming pool, where a number of roots are festooned on the face. Climb to a stork's nest. Traverse right below nest and ascend to a ledge (9) or ascend and traverse right above nest to same ledge (7). A chock stone in a crack which slopes up to the right is the belay point.
[15] 24m
Ascend 3m and traverse to the left around bulge. Continue traversing left at same level on steep delicate face, or ascend 2m and then traverse left on less steep but equally difficult rock. Ascend around 1-2m to immediately under overhang, and traverse around nose to small stance with eye hole belay.
[17] 30m
Descend for 2.5 m traverse across sloping slab, then traverse around a spectacular corner (slight descent while making this move) to easier rock. Continue traversing to end of overhang which has stepped down nearer floor of kloof over this section.
[15] 25m
Climb the downstream facing wall following a line that avoids the most overhangs. About 15m up is a slightly larger overhang with a protruding end on the right, the line goes just to the right of this. Continue up to a recess where a large eye-hole is found on the right-hand wall of the recess.
[15] 20m
Continue up on the right hand side of the recess and ultimately go right around the corner at the top. This part is spectacularly exposed. Belay on the large ledge at the top.
It is possible to combine pitches 4 and 5 if you take great care with avoiding rope drag.
Variation A: Climb the route up to pitch 4, and then:
30m (15) Climb pitch 4 as described above and squeeze through the eye-hole at the end and belay here.
15m (18/15) After straightforward climbing up a slab a small overhang is overcome by making a short but difficult move through a gap (18). Alternatively traverse right across slab and then ascend overhang by means of strenuous pull-ups on good holds (15).
Takes the continuously overhanging section of the buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool. Starts 12m downstream of the pool from a sloping shelf where a corner slants up to the overhangs at 12m.
[24] 25m
Follow the corner until one can move right to a narrow ledge below the overhangs. Traverse left below the overhang, round a rib to a thin crack 6m. Ascend the overhang using 3 nuts in this crack until it is peters out. Move left onto a slab around the corner, then back right into the corner and up to a tiny stance below a small overhang (peg belay).
[19] 25m
Gain the ledge on the left and onto a pinnacle flake. Ascend the crack above to the horizontal break below the overhangs ( 'Cedarberg Traverse' ) and move directly up to handrail. Swing right and up a slanting crack to a peg belay on a superb protruding perch under the overhanging wall. Make a very exposed traverse left on good holds and layback up to a peg (in place) and make a "Western Roll" onto the ledge on the left. Easily up to the large ledge and peg belay. (Top of 'Boggle' , pitch 2.)
[21] 25m
Climb the steep hand jam crack above the stance using 2 nuts for aid. Continue up the very steep wall to a spike then up left on good holds to a small stance. It has been climbed free up the right hand crack. Move up right on the slab and up to an overhanging chimney through the final overhang (as for 'Cedarberg Traverse' ).
Notes:
Originally climbed in 6 pitches.
Variation:
The original route avoids the grade 24 pitch by using 'Cedarberg Traverse' pitches 1 and 2 and from here:
3a. 18m 17 Gain the sloping slab below an overlap (5m right of 'Cedarberg Traverse' crux) and surmount it to a narrow ledge containing a large flake. Make a semi-hand traverse left for 5m to the perch under the overhanging wall.
Start directly opposite 'Frog Gully' on the true right-hand side of the kloof, below a huge open book in the overhangs in the upper part of the kloof.
[22] 35m
Scramble up the vertical grass (often wet) to the tree. Step 1m right and climb up 3m before pulling left into the thin groove. Climb up strenuously to a resting place below the overhang. Stretch across and clip a thin wire (in place). Using this for aid, step right and up into the base of the steep, broken crack. Climb the crack for about 15m to where the angle eases at the level of the 'Cedarberg Traverse' . Follow this route up and left around the corner and then back down to a stance just to the left of the crack which leads up to the big dihedral above.
[25] 25m
Climb back up the crack to the small overhang. Pull through this and continue for about 1m from where it is possible to pull left to the prominent flake and crack. Steep jamming and lay-backing leads to a resting position on top of the broken flake. A further 3m leads up to the first major roof in the dihedral from where the aid climbing starts. Aid through this roof and continue up into the dihedral above. Climb this past some guano and continue to where the dihedral runs into the final, huge overhang. Traverse right (on aid) to the end of the overhang, step right and up onto a good stance.
[12] 10m
Step right into the groove, climb this and continue to top.
“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.”
Bene Gesserit Litany Against Fear.
Like the Dune quote this route is dramatic. It weaves through the steep bowl between the top pitches of 'Boggle' and 'Project 22' and finishes just right of 'Boggle' chains. There is no fixed gear and, for the hard bits, the gear is bomber. There are great views of it from 'Frog Gully' or the 'Boggle' abseil.
Find your way to the tree on the sloping 'Cedarberg Traverse' ledge. This is halfway up the crag, about midway between Project 22 and Suicide. There are a few ways to get here:
a) The easiest is to rap in from 'Boggle' chains, placing gear. The second then removes the gear and gets hauled into the stance. This is a good option to excavate wasps.
b) Climb 'Cedarberg Traverse' . This is easy, but dirty and scrappy.
c) Climb the first pitch of 'Boggle' and traverse right, beneath the big roof, passing the chains of the first pitch of 'Climbing In bed with Madonna'
[28R] 25m Climb just left of the tree to a ledge with large loose flakes then traverse left to a ledge beneath a pillar ('Suicide' stances here, then traverses out left to 'Boggle' ledge). Climb to a perch on top of the pillar, then continue diagonally right up the break to a rail. The climbing to here is bold, although relatively easy (21ish). Place bomber gear and rail right along the lip of the roof until able to pull through on jugs. Climb up to the next roof, step left then bust through, initially on big side pulls to gain a short, left-facing dihedral. Climb the blunt arête to the next overlap, then move left and up to the obvious finishing break. Fight the pump up then right to the arête to a shake. Suck up the exposure and do the last few moves diagonally left to the top.
This is a fully bolted sport climb. Start at the first bolt which is more a few meters downstream and opposite 'Frog Gully' . The bolt is a few meters downstream of a prominent upstream facing open book ('Suicide') at river level.
[27] 35m
Foreplay: Step off ledge above river to clip bolt. Move diagonally right past next bolt and climb crack above to cubby hole. Up steep bulge and onto easier ground. Move diagonally right about 5m into corner below roof. Pull through roof at corner on right and up into leftwards trending crack system. Exit onto ledge system at same level as end of the 'Boggle' first pitch.
[27] 10m
The bit in the middle: Climb through the roof above sharing the stance with pitch 2 of 'Boggle' . There are chains here.
[27] 20m
Afterglow: Climb the bolted line on the wall above.
Effectively a direct version of 'Spiderman'. Start about 5m to the right of 'Boggle' /'Spiderman'.
[23] 40m Up very steep broken crack tending diagonally right towards ledges at 10m. Climb diagonally up left to join 'Spiderman' at 25m. Up crack/recess to ledge.
Start 5m upstream of the first pitch of 'Boggle' (a tree-filled corner 18m downstream of the swimming pool).
[20] 25m
Climb right then up to gain a crack leading to ledges beneath a white face.
[18] 45m
Climb up the left side of the white face ( 'Boggle' 2nd pitch traverses right across the face). Traverse left beneath the penultimate roof, climb 5m up the wall above, move right around a long overhang and continue directly to the summit.
The route takes an impressive line up the steep buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool and finishes up the slanting chimney crack which can be seen from 'Frog Gully' . Start 18m downstream of the swimming pool below a tree-filled corner immediately left of 'Cedarberg Traverse' buttress.
[15] 25m
Ascend the corner to trees in a recess (6m) and continue up to a large ledge and belay (as for pitch 3 belay of 'Cedarberg Traverse' )
[16] 18m
Traverse right ( 'Cedarberg Traverse' in reverse) until one can move up to gain a white slab above. Move right and up to the top right hand corner of the slab whence an exhilarating swing right is made. Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.
[19] 18m
Move to the extreme right end of the ledge and up the initial overhang in the slanting chimney-crack. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue to the top with two good resting ledges. A fine, impressive pitch in a superb position.
Note:
This is one of the best routes in the Magaliesberg – climb it.
There is a bolted anchor at the top from which you do a 60m abseil to the kloof floor.
Located on the buttress immediately downstream and back from the buttress on which the top pitches of 'Boggle' are situated.
[15] 25m
As per the first pitch of 'Boggle' .
[11] 15m
Climb up the gully over mixed ground to the base of an obvious open book which has an off-width crack in its' corner.
[20] 20m
Ascend the face to the right of the open book to a cave which has a dead tree rooted in it. Move across to the small recess on the right of the cave. Climb through the small roof capping the recess and continue up the face above to easier ground. A bollard belay can be taken at the top.
Note:
Protection on the crux of pitch 3 is good.
FA:P.S. Greenfield, T.P. Willmot & R. Dodding, 1986
About 80m downstream from 'Straight Jerry' . Starts at downstream end of a long shelf of rock about 2m above water level immediately adjacent to a long narrow pool.
[10] 14m
Climb up a recessed corner to a small ledge.
[15] 22m
Climb a few meters up on the left to a smooth sloping slab from which the left end of a ledge can be reached. This ledge is then followed to the right. (Alternatively, from top of first pitch climb diagonally to the right over alternating smooth slabs and low overhangs to the same spot.)
Start about 9m left of 'Fistula' and immediately opposite start of 'Frog Face' and large trees in centre of kloof.
[15] 9m
Mantle shelf onto ledge, then ascend on right to corner 3m below ledge forming first stance of 'Fistula' . Traverse 6m onto large ledge. Move up right hand corner onto the 'Fistula' ledge.
[19] 3m
Ascend overhanging recess to ledge. Stance common with second stance of 'Fistula' .
[15] 30m
From extreme left of stance, ascend 12m to piton point and up right to slab below overhanging face with crack in centre. Proceed up crack and move left between two trees. Ascend 9m up large steps and onto large ledge.
[7] 30m
Ascend 30m over clean face to ledge below overhanging red face.
[15] 15m
Ascend to right onto large block to right of face. Move up to corner and summit.
Mantle shelf onto ledge, climb up in corner and traverse left to a large flat (and wet) ledge. Belay on right hand side.
[20] 12m
Slide over to the left hand side of the ledge and climb up left to a ledge beneath the overhanging wall (piton in place). Climb the wall from the right hand end of the ledge, using 2 or 3 nuts for aid, to a grassy ledge.
[13] 20m
Traverse left along the ledge, and climb up to a broken open book recess, which is ascended to a large slabby ledge.
[17] 25m
Climb up the steep wall to the left of the white root (strenuous), and up over easier pleasant rock to stance at base of slightly overhanging wall.
[15] 25m
Move around the right hand end of the wall and climb up a short way in the corner. Move out left and around onto a ledge above the wall, which is traversed left to a V-shaped chimney capped by an overhang. Climb this to reach the top.
Note:
The first two pitches can be combined. From the top of pitch 2 one can climb up right in a large recess (8), then scramble up to the top. One can also scramble off from the top of the following pitches, but then, if you feel like we do, you'll climb. Pitch 2 may go free, especially now that some of the vegetation has been cleared.
Variation:
5a. 14m 21 Instead of moving right, continue straight up the overhanging wall utilising the obvious cracks (strenuous). Continue up to the base of the V-shaped chimney mentioned in pitch 5. Climb the chimney to the top.
Start about 15m downstream from 'Cedarberg Crescent' on same side of kloof at steep face with undercut base.
[23] 15m Up face slightly right of arete, back slightly left where angle eases. Up thin rail, left and directly up to ledge with small tree.
Note:
Upper portion of wall protected with two pre-placed wires on first ascent.
A shallow corner crack immediately left of a tree next to the face is situated 10m upstream of 'Cedarberg Recess'.
[21] 8m
Climb the crack to a ledge.
[23] 20m
Climb the crack above to where it thins (fixed piton). A tricky move right leads to a narrow ledge on the face. Continue up from the left side of the face.
Commences on the right hand edge of 'Cedarberg Recess' cave. At this point an obvious ledge starting 4m above stream level extends upwards to the right.
[10] 15m
Ascending to ledge provides the only difficulty. Then move along the ledge passing a number of insecure looking blocks. Stance is at base of overhanging crack, which takes off from the ledge.
[10] 18m
Follow the ledge to extreme end where it leads into a chimney. Ascend chimney for about 5m then diagonally up left to wide ledge.
[7] 15m
Continue up bearing somewhat left, to a wide ledge beneath a red buttress. To the right is a recess which can be climbed as a variation to the final pitch.
[22] 20m Starting right of 'Cedarberg Recess' start, climb the face immediately left of the right arete. From a ledge about 2m below the roof traverse around to the right. Move up to the obvious rail, and rail left to the prow. Pull up past rails to easier rock which is followed to a stance.
Starts on right side of large recess about 20m upstream from the junction with 'Lower Tonquani Kloof'
[19] 21m
Climb face on right side of recess to platform Ascend 3m to piton point. Traverse left 2m into corner with vertical crack. Move 2,5m up and then semi-hand traverse left 2,5m to possible stance. Diagonally up and right for about 2,5m into crack which cuts overhang. Climb crack for 5m to stance.
[16] 20m
Continue 6m up recess to overhang and move across to good holds on right. Ascend 5m and turn second overhang to right. Ascend face to tree belay.
Variation:
15m 18 Start in the same place as the first pitch. Instead of moving right, climb straight up the crack. Step to the left to rejoin the original route. (This pitch is well protected.) (Jan 1990 A. Margetts and P. McCann)
Ascend a short steep crack to a niche below the overhang (3m). Pull around this, and continue up the crack above (strenuous) to a block, which is surmounted (strenuous). Traverse left 3m and up to a niche (alternatively climb straight up from block). Hand-traverse right, mantelshelf, and climb the crack above ( 'Cedarberg Recess' 15 variation) to a large ledge and belay.
[17] 25m
Move left and up 3m then swing up onto the arete using sharp hold and into the base of a groove. Ascend the groove and then an awkward move out left below the overhang, then up a bulge and right to the top.
[23] 20m Start as for 'Sunday Driver' up to the first ledge, then slightly left and up past pegs to a diagonal rail. Move slightly right to a crack and up this to a small ledge and an old peg under an overlap. Continue up the left tending break above to a ledge and a fixed rap point.
Climbs the wall downstream of 'Sunday Driver'. The key feature is a shallow upward-pointing triangular recess. Start a couple of meters left of 'Sunday Driver' initial crack.
[23] 18m Gain a rail at 3m after a tricky start. Traverse left to a flake/block feature and move slightly left up this. Climb diagonally right past a bolt and into the triangular recess. Move up to just below the apex of the recess and rail left across the face to the base of a short hand crack on the right side of a block. Climb the crack to a ledge.
The climb is situated on the corner of Tonquani and Cedarberg, opposite 'Aloe Corner'.
[17] 15m
Climb the recess for 6m to a small platform. Move around the bulge to the left to the foot of a steep face. Climb the face to the overhang, where a nut can be placed in a crack. Traverse to the right and move around the corner (crux). Climb up 3m to a large platform.
About 50m down-stream from the upper meeting spot, the true left wall of the kloof comes down to the stream, forming a large, broken buttress. On the upstream face of this buttress, near the up-hill end, there is a shallow crack with rounded lips – it is on the left end of the grey face to the left of OBELIX.
20m 16 Climb this on small gear until the crack terminates, then step right onto a ledge, before scrambling up the final summit block.
Approximately 50m downstream of the Cedarberg meet spot is a large recess on the left. At the time of writing this up (2007) there was a small growth of what looks like prickly pear nearby. The route is on right-hand side of the upstream-side face, in a recess at the bottom of which is a 3m high rock obelisk (no too secure). A well protected route. 1. 20m 11 Climb the recess with the two cracks behind the obelisk until an overhang is reached (16m). The overhang can either be obviated by a short traverse right and continuing the ascent, or it may be tackled head-on.
An easy gully leading to the bed of the kloof. A prominent landmark at the top of this gully consists of two rock columns or undercut pinnacles (The Twins).
On the left side of the square-cut recess 5m left (uphill) of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER. There is an oval "alien face" mark in the rock at waist level. 1. 15m 14 Climb a thin crack, with a small tree some 6m off the ground, leading to a thought-provoking but technically easy chimney. Stance as for FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER.
5m left (uphill) of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER is a shallow square-cut recess. On the right side are two parallel cracks on either side of a hollow-sounding pillar about a foot thick.
15m 13 Climb the cracks and the corner to the right, to reach the same stance as FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER. The capping chock-stone is best turned on the right. Though hollow-sounding, the rock did not appear to be loose.
About 50m down-stream from the sandy “lunch-spot” 100m down from the easy descent gully near the campsite, there is a buttress on the true left, visible from the main path – this is climbed by FRAGILE FORTRESS. A further 50m-70m down-stream there is a second clearly visible buttress. FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER takes the up-stream face of the buttress at its nearest point to the river.
20m 10 Start from the lowest boulders to gain the ledges below a short face with a prominent crack. Proceed upwards and gradually left, with the angle and grade gradually dropping, until the highest boulders are reached.
Note:
Descend by walking upstream at the same level as the belay to reach an easy scramble down a gully 30m upstream of the start. Gear is plentiful and the rock sound.
Variation:
BABY STEPS - Start as for THE KNELL, ascend 2m to the ledge then traverse right for 3m. Ascend the obvious line to the top.
(21 Jul 2007 Claire Othenin-Girard, Malcolm Dunkeld, Warren Krynie and Rob Thomas)
An extremely short but pleasant route near the Upper Cedarberg campsite. Approximately 30m downstream of the campsite on the true left is a 1m roof with a finger crack in it. The route takes this line about 5m right of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER.
6m 21 Start on a triangular block, pull through the roof and continue up the layback crack.
FA:George Mallory, A. Smith, B. O'Meara, D. Young & Jarru, 1985
50-80m below the FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER buttress, there is a prominent 3m high, 6m long boulder just to the right of the path; on the opposite side of the stream is a clearly visible orange overhang. On the upstream face of this buttress there is a deep, easy-angled chimney (FAITH’S CRACK).
30m 13 Start at the bottom of this chimney, and step right onto a rock nose (you are now 3m off the ground.) Sling the tree for psychological protection, and make a leap of faith to the right (actually a short step) onto the next triangular ledge (you are now 6m off the ground, but at the same height as your starting point!) Mantle up and walk up the ledges before climbing the main arête above, first on the right then on the left. Stance just below the top. Descend by scrambling over piles of boulders then down the up-stream side of the buttress (tricky at the bottom). Good moves, views and rock, but a little shy on gear.
