Routes in Cedarberg Kloof

50-80m below the FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER buttress, there is a prominent 3m high, 6m long boulder just to the right of the path; on the opposite side of the stream is a clearly visible orange overhang. On the upstream face of this buttress there is a deep, easy-angled chimney (FAITH’S CRACK).

1. 30m 13 Start at the bottom of this chimney, and step right onto a rock nose (you are now 3m off the ground.) Sling the tree for psychological protection, and make a leap of faith to the right (actually a short step) onto the next triangular ledge (you are now 6m off the ground, but at the same height as your starting point!) Mantle up and walk up the ledges before climbing the main arête above, first on the right then on the left. Stance just below the top. Descend by scrambling over piles of boulders then down the up-stream side of the buttress (tricky at the bottom). Good moves, views and rock, but a little shy on gear.

1. 30m 13 Start up ONE FOR MOM. Just before the chimney starts in earnest, pull up to the rail just below the over-hang on the face to the left, and use it to quickly swing left to reach a twisted and worryingly hollow-sounding horn. Step up thought the overhang on tenuous holds, before easily wandering up the slabs to the prominent corner above. Bomber gear protects the move over the large chockstone. Move up and right, to stance on the very highest point of the buttress.

Note:

There are some awkward moves that are poorly protected – this adds to the experience if you’re game, though!

Above 50m downstream from the LEAP OF FAITH buttress, the kloof floor begins to drop away rapidly. Half way down this decline, and just above the ever-fun slide down the boulder, there is a sandy lunch spot on the true left, with a small cave. This is some 80m above the worm-hole descent. Just downstream from this cave, there is a recess of rounded steps, reaching up to the canopy. Start 5m right of the cave, where tree roots skirt the face.

1. 35m 11 Climb straight up to enter the recess, before moving up and right to exit the canopy on the right hand edge of the recess. Carry on out into the open, and over a 2m rock band, before reaching a grove of small trees, which form the best belay available. Descend by thrashing upstream through bushes (easiest near the upper cliffs) until a small gully is found to scramble down, arriving at the top of the small waterfall just above the sanding lunchspot. There is gear just before moving onto the arête, but nowhere else.

Start about 10m downstream of GREY GULLY (Times Gully) where there is a mostly detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is an obvious crack/recess on the downstream side of the column between the column and the main face.

1. 30m 16 Start at a shallow overhang (1.5m high) to the left of the main crack. Climb through the overhang on short but sharp holds to a ledge with scallops (4m 16). Move right and ascend the crack to the top of the column (Grade eases to 10). Climb the overhang on massive holds and move right and up to a very large ledge (exit left of Twins Gully).

Note:

It is very probable that the main crack between the column and the buttress has been climbed before as it is very obvious.

Start about 25m upstream of the main water-fall, opposite smaller waterfall (detached column of rock on front-left of buttress).

1. 45m 15 Climb a shallow recess on right side of buttress. Climb diagonally in the recess and crack to some overhangs. Move slightly right and up a crack to a large ledge. Climb up right on arete to top blocks.

Starts about 20m downstream of GREY GULLY (Times Gully) and 10m downstream of a detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is a pronounced recess/chimney which slopes slightly to the right and starts on a 2m wide ledge which is reached by scrambling up 5m to the right.

1. 15m 14 Start immediately to the right of the tree (on the left of the same tree is HIGH JINKS). Ascend the crack into the recess and climb up the right corner of the recess until blocked by large chockstones. Move right by using small but rough footholds on the face and up and around to the ledge.

2. 30m 16 Grovel and grot for 12m to the bottom of a corner to the right side of the arete in HIGH JINKS. Hand jam up the crack 2m to the right of the corner. After 3m move left into the corner and then up on good holds until a prominent nose is reached. Move left and onto the nose and then up easy rock on the left of the arete to the top blocks.

The route starts at a large tree at the base of the rock about 20m downstream of the ADAM AND EVE gully. It is possible that a further pitch may be added to it by starting at the top of the small waterfall a few metres downstream. The first few metres may be bypassed, if desired, by scrambling to the right of the start for a few metres to the base of a narrow, smooth chimney which marks the start of the serious climbing.

1. 25m 16 After an awkward take-off, climb chimney to the roof which is turned to the right. Tree belay.

2. 27m 17 Scramble diagonally right for 10m to the base of a crack in steep, smooth orange face. Climb the crack for about 4m to a ledge and foot rail. (At this point, one has the option of an easier alternative route using a large flake to layback) Move left to a steep crack and corner. It is possible to get a large nut into the crack, high up, by throwing it in. Move 3m, then left to a crack below a large, overhanging block. Ascend, strenuously, to a seat on the block. Climb easy ridge to top.

Note:

For fans of NAUGTHY DAUGHTER, this climb is closer, longer and possibly more exciting.

Starts upstream of the cataract where the earth floor is sloping. At this point the kloof wall is characterised by a short corner (wet at bottom) and a large ledge at 8m capped by an overhang. Downstream from the corner there is a crack at 0,5m, a crack topped by a bulge at 2,5m and a right sloping groove at 8m. Start below the crack topped by bulge, marked BP (scratched on rock).

1. 8m 15 Climb the crack by jamming and bridging until a move left can be made to reach the large ledge above the bulge. Tree belays.

2. 20m 17 From the upstream end of the ledge climb a fist-jam crack in a steep ramp, swing right to foothold and pull up to ledge. Climb crack and steep left face on good holds to ledge above. Move left of the undercut rock into a little square-cut bay, up 2m to ledge and nut belays.

3. 16m 17 Climb the crack above belay, Move right onto good ledge. A step left on a sloping foothold enables a slanting V-crack to be gained. Climb up this to ledge. Move right and climb the crack to the top.

On the true left about 100m downstream of the illegal campsite in the kloof, near the easy descent gully. The route avoids a very obvious roof with a crack/flake going through it at about 10m. This part of the kloof is still flat but from here on downstream it starts to get steep.

1. 25m 16 Climb the corner until under the roof. Traverse out on good jams in the ceiling and sneak around the corner onto mega-jugs. (Good large friend placements.) Doddle on up until you think the climbing has stopped.

On the left side of the kloof just above the wormhole in the floor of the kloof above GOLDEN PITCHER there is a cave about 7m above the stream. Start from the cave.

1. 25m 13 Traverse horizontally right out of the cave underneath the overhangs to just around the corner. Ascend the shallow recess in the steep face above. Move left onto the exposed nose with slab on left where the recess steepens. Ascend the nose and move left to tree belay.

2. 18m 11 Ascend recess to overhangs. Traverse horizontally right round bulge. Ascend slab/corner a few metres, step left and move up short steep face.

3. 20m 10 A large buttress will be seen up to the left. Start in the centre of the buttress (cairn). Pleasant climbing up steep rock on jugs leads to a shallow recess which bears left and leads to the top of the buttress.

Note:

To the left of the finish of the climb there is a "toadstool" which can be climbed on good holds on its downstream side (15).

This route takes a direct line up the buttress directly opposite the Golden Pitcher and immediately upstream of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG. Scramble up a short corner then traverse right on grass and belay at the first tree. This is down and left of a deep cave.

1. 8m 10 Move left and up a short groove to a tree belay in a cave.

2. 15m 10 Move left and ascend the rib to a short crack above the cave. Climb this on good holds and up a recess to a stance on the left and belay on rock knobs.

3. 8m 7 Ascend the rock knobs directly to a large ledge and tree belay.

4. 22m 7 Move right and follow the ramp to its top to a block belay.

5. 12m 8 Traverse 3m left and ascend the face on good holds to the top. Belay on block at the back.

Opposite the Golden Pitcher there is a large cave situated 15m above the stream. Start on the left side of the cave directly below its top.

1. 20m 17 Climb up 3m until opposite a block-like projection. Move left onto the block and continue up via difficult moves until it is possible to hand-traverse on rounded holds to a ledge. Climb up the face until level with the top of the cave, traverse right and move up to the gully.

2. 15m 18 On the face to the left of the gully there is an obvious steep crack slanting right. Climb up the gully until a traverse left to the base of the crack can be made. Climb the crack until just above the bulge, then traverse 2m left to a block on the face. Continue up 3m to a ledge on the arete.

3. 30m 13 Climb diagonally right for 6m to the crack of pitch 2, then continue straight up for 25m.

Starts 9 - 12m downstream of GOLDEN PITCHER FRONTAL. Scramble 18m to foot of a 5m broad grey face immediately to right of large deep cave. Start from tree at bottom right hand corner of face.

1. 15m 10 Climb up face for 9m, then move diagonally left to stance in large recess.

2. 18m 6 Climb up recess to stance at tree.

3. 22m 8 Climb up a few metres then traverse left across steep exposed face to opposite side, then move to top. (A lower traverse of grade 13 can be made.)

Start from same tree at bottom right hand corner of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG face.

1. 25m 10 Follow thin indentation diagonally up right to ledge. Traverse around nose into open book, then climb right hand side of open book to large stance 6m up.

2. 15m 8 Follow chimney diagonally left to 2 small trees, then traverse right onto nose. Climb a few metres on nose then traverse back into crack. Ascend brown rock to tree belay.

3. 8m 11 A scramble up gap to right side of tree leads to slab which is climbed on right hand side.

Climbs the diagonally right trending crack-line/seam out of the cave.

On the True Left side, 3m right of THE CRACK, downstream of the wormhole, opposite a good swimming pool is a cave. The route takes the obvious corner and face above at the right hand edge of the cave.

1. 16, 25m Climb the short recess on the right of the cave until able to step across left into the shallow dihedral with finger crack. Climb the dihedral and finger crack to below an overlap. Some fun reachy moves take you through the overlap to a small ledge. Climb the short face on your left to the upper ledge with a comfy tree belay.

Notes:

1. Stick to the face on the left after the mid height ledge, going right is super easy and no fun at all.

The route takes the open book which forms the back of the deep recess opposite RED FALCON CRAG. The objective is the clean slab high above the book.

1. 35m 15,R1 Climb up under the roof capping the cave at the back of the gully. A lot of broken loose rock. Use the tree root to avoid the loose stuff and break out right under the roof to gain the book above. Ascend the book to the grassy stone with large detached blocks at the base of the ramp.

2. 35m 18 Start under the prominent crack system bisecting the slab. Move diagonally up left to a good handrail (and some gear). Rail right to gain the base of the crack system. Climb up the crack until it peters out, thrutching through a small tree in the process. Rail right to gain a small open book, the right wall of which faces upstream. Gain the book, with some difficulty and climb up to the sloping stance at the top with a small tree and chicken head.

Note:

The R1 means "liberal use of root". The second pitch is good slab climbing. The rails are foot holdless.

Start at the corner 10m downstream of the cave opposite KNEES and CHURCH WINDOW. The climb is the prominent pinnacle visible from the stream.

1. 20m 8 Up vertical face with good holds to small ledge. Keep slightly to right.

2. 13m 7 Straight up to wide ledge and tree belay.

3. 13m 6 Traverse to right to base of corner below pinnacle.

4. 13m 7 Climb corner to base of pinnacle.

5. 13m 10 Climb the crack on the north-west side of the pinnacle.

Variations:

4a. 14m 13 Climb the face to the left of the corner.

5a. 15m 8 Traverse around the base and climb the crack on the east side to the top.

The climb is directly opposite LABYRINTH.

1. 9m 6 Scramble up to big ledge on roots.

2. 30m 10 Traverse left 9m to break in overhang. Go straight up to ledge.

3. 30m 10 Start on red nose to left of ledge. Go straight up to pinnacle visible against skyline. Climb stays roughly on corner of pinnacle.

4. 12m 8 Scramble up about 5m. Carry on up crack between pinnacle leaning against main face and face itself.

Variations:

1. 12m 7 Scramble up gully then left around corner to tree on large platform below crack in recess.

2. 22m 13 Ascend awkward corner on left and then climb directly up to awkward crack topped by small overhang. This is negotiated by turning it to the left.

3. 15m 7 An easy face is ascended to the bottom of main face and crack. (1969 A. Burger, R. Slatem and H. Liebsch)

Start directly opposite RED FALCON CRAG where there is a prominent tree-filled recess. Scramble up this for 13m to the base of a steep, slightly overhanging chimney crack in the left hand wall of the recess.

1. 30m 17 Climb the crack (good nut runners) for 18m to where the angle eases. Continue up over easier broken rock to a large ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m 11 Climb the face at the back of the ledge, between two prominent recesses to a ledge at 10m. Continue diagonally up right to a stance on a pinnacle on top of the right hand recess.

3. 25m 10 Climb the smooth face above on good holds tending left towards the arete after 10m. Follow the arete easily to the top.

Variation:

1. 20m 13 From right hand edge of ledge step right onto buttress and climb up exposed face and continue up open book recess to the stance. (M.A. Prior and L.P. Fatti)

One of the longest pitches in the Magaliesberg. This must-do hidden classic has been overlooked for far too long, probably because it can’t easily be seen from anywhere. The name derives from two distinctive moves. The climbing is mostly grade 20/21 climbing with a short and powerful crux boulder. Bring double cams from tiny to #0.5, and then singles to #1. Start opposite Red Falcon Crag, at the back of a prominent tree-filled gulley, from where the route ascends an impressive, narrow rib of a buttress. The poorly-named No Name Climb starts in the same place, and the first 10m are in common. Belay from the highest platform on the left, looking up, beneath some water-worn grey slabs with a chimney/corner on the left.

1. 50m 23. Climb the slabs, using the chimney as needed, to a platform beneath the square roof. Climb up and left, aiming for the recess which breaks through the left side of the roof. Fiddle in some tiny but good cams and then, if so inclined, use your thighs to bust through the roof (crux). Continue up and slightly left to the horizontal break (ignore the escape ledge on the left). Pull onto the front of the rib above and climb up and right to the exposed right arête. Keep going forever, just left of the arête. After a good rail, use your eyeball to find the next, distant crimp, and then romp up jugs to the top.

2. 20m 14. Scramble down off the small pinnacle to the bushy ledge. It’s possible to scramble up the unappealing gulley on the right, but its far nicer to climb up and left on the clean slab to the top (shared with No Name Climb).

Climb starts 15m above the roots marking the start of CEDARBERG TRAVERSE, on the opposite side of the kloof. There is a cave about the same distance upstream from the climb.

1. 35m 13 Scramble 15m up grassy bank to start. Ascend a noticeable flat ramp for 5m then move left onto thin face. Move up 3m then slightly left before continuing up to grassy ledge.

2. 20m 13 Scramble up grassy ledge to steep broken face. The "maternity" move on MATERNITY COUCH is about 9m to the right of this. Climb 9m up steep face, on excellent holds, to ledge. Move 2m right into recess with smooth flat ramp on the right hand side. Climb 6m up ramp to ceiling, then move out to the right under aloe onto grassy ledge.

3. 15m 13 Walk up ledge to gully, directly on line of climb. Ascend smooth chimney to top of small pinnacle and fall across to wall of larger pinnacle, then move left into crack. Climb crack and wall to top of pinnacle.

Start opposite the wet, vegetated groove of ADRENALIN, 25m upstream of the swimming pool. Scramble up to a tree-filled ledge at 3m.

1. 18m 7 Ascend a large corner on the left for 5m, then traverse right to second tree (or ascend directly to this tree via a shallow groove at 13) Ascend to below the overhang then traverse right 11m to a large tree belay at the right end of a wide ledge.

2. 15m 12 Move back left then traverse 6m left above the overhang to the base of a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to a peg belay in the horizontal break.

3. 12m 12 Pull over the bulge strenuously and then up rightwards into a corner (to the right of the V-groove) and up this to a tree at the top. Scramble up to a large ledge and tree belay. (Or ascend the V-groove and the crack in the right wall at 13)

4. 22m 15 Under the large overhang is a red projecting block and this is used to pass the overhang (right-hand side used on MATERNITY COUCH). Move up a few metres then traverse left and up to the top of an obvious nose. Up rightwards and past a sapling (Ed Note: That was in 1967!) to belay on the right.

5. 30m 12 Move across right, across the chimney of MATERNITY COUCH and the face then continue up the rib, and directly up the pinnacle front on huge jugs.

Commences about 5m above the big tree opposite the lower swimming pool.

1. 25m 11 Straight up the crack starting immediately above the tree to a wide tree-grown ledge. Intermediate belays are possible in this crack.

2. 18m 11 Follow the 3m wide ledge to the left for about 11m to a point underneath a reddish coloured rock face, the upper portions of which overhang. Beneath this overhang is a ledge with a tree and about 2m below this again is the "couch" - a horizontal slit in the rock, deep, broad and level, but barely 15cm high. The pitch from the wide ledge proceeds straight up into the right hand side of the "couch" wherein the body lies prostrate and is then contorted to the left side, and out again to the face which is climbed to the ledge above, where a good belay is obtained on the tree.

3. 25m 10 From the last ledge one can climb out either right or left.

Halfway up FROG GULLY there is a large grass ledge. The route follows the obvious corner crack opposite the top of the first pitch of MATERNITY COUCH (cairn).

1. 40m 11 Climb crack in corner, over blocks, until crack widens to chimney. Climb from top of chimney left up into gully. Block belays. From here scramble 10m to top of gully.

Starts from the broad ledge on true right hand side, halfway down FROG GULLY (i.e. the ledge from which the main pitch of MATERNITY COUCH starts). Start adjacent to tree (cairn).

1. 20m 15 Ascend red rock, with loose-looking flakes, to tree. Step right and continue up to small roof. Make a long stride left under roof onto slab and ascend obvious corner to broad ledge with small tree.

2. 30m 11 Follow obvious recess above, past a pillar on the left, to a smooth scoop. Step out right, gain top of large detached flake on the left and so to the top. A good "end-of-the-day" route.

Halfway down FROG GULLY there is a broad ledge on the true right hand side of the gully. The route starts 3m to the right of a tree at a point where the branches touch the rock (cairn).

1. 22m 19 Pull onto face, 1m right of its undercut base and ascend directly to large block on the left. Make a rising traverse right to gain the finger-jam crack at the base of the open groove containing a tree. Ascend the groove to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 From stance make rising traverse right for about 4m to gain a series of large knobbles and then ascend the thin crack above. Pull over the bulge above, step left and continue directly up the pillar above. Finish up the flake-crack on the left.

Starts in FROG GULLY 7m to the right of AERODYNAMICS. Scramble up 5m to large cubbyhole at base of route (cairn).

1. 15m 19 Climb up steep grooves on back of cubbyhole-recess until they close up necessitating wide bridging to reach tree.

2. 20m 15 Straddle up to base of chimney and wriggle to top (strenuous).

Starts on the true right of FROG GULLY just above the scramble. At this height, a large ledge extends to the left (looking down).

1. 25m 15 Climb easily up slab to reach 2 holes through the rock. A tricky move above this gains access to the top of the pinnacle. Step left over chimney onto steep, undercut face with mega jugs. Climb upwards. Either step left into chimney (opening party) or venture onto thin face above.

An easy gully just below MATERNITY COUCH. Comprises the farthest downstream point of access to the kloof on left hand side. Not to be taken lightly, particularly when wet.

On the right side of FROG GULLY (facing up) and approximately 6m to the left of the cave (with old stretcher) can be seen an open book running the height of the cliffs. The open book starts approximately 5m up.

1. 25m 15 Climb the open book using crack in back to second large tree.

2. 20m 11 Follow the continuation crack/groove to top.

The route goes up 5m to the right of THE HOSE i.e. 5m to the left of LEADER'S CORNER. It follows the recess above the cave with the old stretcher on the true left of FROG GULLY. Start at tree to right of cave mouth (cairn).

1. 18m 17 Climb up arete on right until level with top of cave and good hand/arm rail. Traverse 2m left into crack and ascend 10m to ledge on right.

2. 30m 13 Climb up crack until small tree is reached. Above tree move right onto steep wall with good holds and Rhino horn feature. Climb up past tree with convoluted trunk to top.

The climb is situated just downstream of FROG GULLY and can be seen from the swimming pool. It starts up the grey buttress to the right of the gully and makes for a vertical, upstream facing, right-angled red open book.

1. 25m 7 Climb the buttress, bearing in towards the base of the right-angled open book recess.

2. 14m 18 Climb left hand face of open book recess for 6m. About halfway up, move right 30cm or so into corner. Ascend in crack 3m. Move out right and up 3m to cubby hole. Move right and up to stance 1,5m.

3. 12m 7 Climb to right of tree to top.

Variation: (four stars)

To the left of pitch 3, the main buttress continues for a further 12m.

3a. 12m 17 Step back left over the main corner pitch, gain the groove above and follow the continuation crack for a further 6m. Move left for 2m and continue to the top. (Apr 1990 R. Dodding and P. Fatti)

The climb starts 20m downstream of FROG GULLY on the left side of the stream. Climb up to a ledge about 5m above the stream. Move downstream to the end of the ledge. Start behind some bushes in a recess.

1. 22m 13 Climb in recess for 2,5m, move 1m right and ascend 2m. Traverse left into open book. Ascend open book for 9m to ledge.

2. 30m 10 Ascend overhanging section for 9m. Move 1m left and continue up face to a tree (12m). Move 1m right, thence 6m to the top.

Note:

Clean climb. Overhangs on the second pitch can be avoided by moving 3m to the right on the first stance and thence up.

The climb starts from the same recess as STRAIGHT JERRY.

1. 12m 13 Climb the steep face on the left hand side of the recess for 5m. Traverse left 2,5m to face at easier angle. Ascend to good block stance.

2. 12m 17 Ascend diagonally left to overhang. Climb overhang. Move up a few metres then traverse left 3m on thin holds (crux). Move up to good stance. (Common with second stance of LEADERS CORNER.)

3. 15m 8 Move out to the right and ascend face to top.

Note:

Pitch 1 was first climbed in 1965 by P. Fatti, M. Makowski, A. Barker and J. Anderson.

About 30m downstream from the main swimming pool there is a shallow cave about 25m above the stream bed partially hidden by much foliage. Scramble to the cave - the crack directly below provides the best climbing (20m).

1. 20m 11 Start in the cave and climb up to a small triangular ledge 5m from the cave floor near the outer edge of the downstream wall of the cave and thence over a chockstone to a belay on the ledge above it. This is a variation to the original route (THE JERRY) which goes around the corner of the downstream wall of the cave and up the face to the same ledge.

2. 15m 15 Climb recess and overhang to ledge above.

3. 25m 6 From this point it is possible to scramble out to the top or alternatively climb out on various variations on the big arete on the left.

About 25m below the main swimming pool, a large roof can be seen high up with an obvious jam crack cutting through it. Scramble to the base of the face below this roof.

1. 30m 18 Follow the faint crack in the centre of the face (fixed piton protecting crux), moving left higher up to gain the ledge above. Climb the short face (old piton), using arete on left to ledge, and continue steeply to good tree.

2. 15m 17 Swing right (yalpesroH) to beneath the roof and its crack, and thus gain the belay ledge above.

Note:

On pitch 1, it is possible to continue straight up the crack instead of moving left at grade 22.

Immediately downstream of STRAIGHT JERRY is a buttress split by a groove starting at 15m and capped by a large overhang. Scramble 15m to the base of the recess.

1. 12m 15 Ascend the steep recess by bridging or chimneying until the angle relents. Continue up to a stance on the left.

2. 12m 13 Step back into the groove and ascend to detached blocks on the right to belay below the large overhangs.

3. 11m 17 Move up a short steep groove above the detached blocks until a good handrail is reached. Swing left and make an awkward move to gain the broad ledge further left. (This ledge is on a nose halfway through the overhangs.) Continue at this level and descend to a tree belay around the corner. Alternatively, once on the broad ledge, move up to a large block under the overhang and ascend directly from this with strenuous moves (19). Continue directly up the face above the overhang and continue to the top.

4. 18m 13 From the tree belay ascend the wall above to a good handrail. Traverse right onto the front face above the overhang and continue to the top.

Note:

Generally on sound, clean rock. Pitches 3 and 4 provide exposed climbing.

3m to the right of HORSEPLAY.

1. 25m 18 Climb the open book and continue up to a stance common with HORSEPLAY.

This route starts from the same shelf as TIGATRIX and ARRABELLA-MELLA. Scramble up on to the shelf from just downstream of FROG GULLY. Walk downstream along the shelf. 10m right of ARRABELLA-MELLA is an upstream facing corner, at the point where the shelf finishes. 1m left of the corner is a crack which runs up to a small roof at 6m. Start at the base of this crack.

1. 20m 18 Climb the crack and gain the shelf below the small roof with difficulty. Move 1m left and hence gain the continuation crack in the small corner. Follow this to easier ground above and hence a stout tree. Rap off this, back to the shelf.

"Beware ... the Under Toad."

The start is situated directly beneath STRAIGHT JERRY.

1. 9m 10 Up recess on right wall 2,5m. Traverse right around corner 2m to position directly below tree. Climb through roots to ledge.

2. 6m 10 Traverse right onto sloping slab and onto stance.

3. 12m 11 Ascend bottomless open book 12m to overhang. Scramble to top.

Start 30m downstream from STRAIGHT JERRY from square block 1,5m high against wall.

1. 18m 10 Scramble 9m to overhang. Move around right hand end of overhang to large bushy tree on large ledge.

2. 11m 10 Move diagonally up right to base of chimney between the large red and block buttress and the grey face.

3. 30m 8 Ascend face to left of chimney and move left to tree, then ascend face on right until overhang is reached. Traverse right round corner and ascend 6m face to stance.

1. same

2. same

3. 25m 11 Continue up chimney to roof for 7m and climb out on left using good holds. Running belay on fixed piton. Continue up corner further 18m to a good stance on right with tree belay. Scramble to top.

Starts 9m downstream from the big block which marks the start of RANA, on the left-hand side facing downstream. The route goes up into a large obvious rock arch.

1. 23m 12 Ascend series of short ramps on face 15m to a large ledge. Traverse left up to a large tree belay for 8m. Traverse right into corner.

2. 25m 10 Continue up face for 15m. Traverse right 9m into an open book. This stance is on SIDEWALK.

3. 14m 15 Move around the corner using small handhold on corner. Traverse 6m to the right then ascend double crack for 8m using partial layback and moving slightly to the left.

4. 15m 10 Traverse 3m left, then move up through the overhangs on large jug handles to the summit of small pinnacle.

This route goes up the line in the middle of the left pillar supporting the "arch" which is above the lower swimming pool. Scramble up to the base of the pillar about 40m above the stream.

1. 40m 21 Start directly below the break with a hard move through the small overhang. Climb the crack up and diagonally right to below a small overhang. Excellent finger-locks take you up to a small ledge and tree. Continue up easy rock to the top.

Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of SIDEWALK. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.

1. 35m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.

2. 20m 19,A1 Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.

3. 25m 10 Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.

Between FROG FACE and RANA is a huge overhanging amphitheatre at 45m. This route climbs the easy wall direct into the amphitheatre, then avoids the huge roof by an exhilarating traverse right immediately below the roof. Start directly below the right hand corner.

1. 40m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the right of the huge amphitheatre. Climb the corner to a block belay 6m below the roof.

2. 25m 20 Climb the very steep corner up to the huge roof. Climb the steep corner up to the huge roof. Hand-traverse out right on good holds to a very exposed ledge on the arete. A few metres of overhanging rock leads to easy ground above.

Downstream from TIGATRIX there is a large arch on the true left. HANGDOG climbs the centre of the left pillar of the arch. SIDEWALK climbs the inside (upstream) corner of the right pillar, then rails right. This route takes the front of the right hand pillar, then the shallow open book and crack on the left arête of the right hand pillar. Start from the large flat-topped boulder just above the lower swimming pool. This is directly below HANGDOG. Scramble up to a grassy ledge, scramble/traverse right to a corner and scramble/climb up to a good platform below the right hand pillar. It might be a good idea to use a rope for this scramble.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face on the front of the pillar to below the big roof. Rail left to the arête and pull around the overhang to get into the base of the shallow open book. Step right to a foot ledge and climb the thin crack until able to step back left into the shallow open book. Climb to the rail and rail right to the arête (shared with SIDEWALK). Step right onto the front of the pillar and climb jugs to the top.

Notes:

1. Small cams and wires are useful.

2. The route was cleaned of loose rock before being led.

Starts opposite a large dead-looking tree with a hollow trunk in the centre of the kloof. Opposite Sorrento.

1. Ascend slight recess (6m) to the left end of a large sloping grassy ledge. Continue op on ridge on left of the massive recess above the grassy ledge. Continue to a large (6x1m) ledge and climb a 2m crack on the right side of the ledge to a smaller ledge.

2. From the left side of the ledge climb the face to the top. Keep left as far as possible in an exposed position. At some point traverse left on 30 cm wide ledge and continue to the top. Climb the chunky overhanging rock above the arch visible from the ground.

Scramble up to back of very large square-backed recess/ gully mentioned in FROG FACE, RIGHT ANGLE and OLD MAN'S CHOICE. The first pitch follows part of RIGHT ANGLE. Start behind a large right-leaning tree.

1. 20m 11 Scramble up the centre of the very clean pleasant face to small ledge below steep pink corner.

2. 10m 21 Pull through the bulge into the corner and move up to rounded rail on left. Move left to loose-looking flake and pull around corner to left moving up to semi-hanging belay under roof.

3. 18m 19 Drop down 2m and traverse left across slab to below break in wall above. Follow right hand side of break to under roof. Jam through the 2m roof and up juggy wall above to top.

Note:

Pitches 2 & 3 were done separately to avoid excessive rope drag due to the zig-zag nature of the route.

The first pitch goes up the centre of the slab forming the square back of the very large recess to the right of FROG FACE. Traverse left under overhang then up face just to right of final pitch of FROG FACE.

Scramble 18m up right side of gully to point where grey slab (forming the square back of the large recess referred to in FROG FACE and RIGHT ANGLE) meets the right hand ridge of the recess.

1. 30m 7 Ascend corner between back face and right hand ridge to tree belays below overhang.

2. 18m 7 Climb right hand face to top.

Starts 13m downstream of FROG FACE (i.e. 5m downstream of OLD MAN'S CHOICE). Start inside a short deep gully directly beneath the "butterfly".

1. 30m 11 Follow diagonally left up grey ridge for 9m. Then break through slight overhang. Ascend diagonally right across grey face below the "butterfly" and move right to stance below edge of right "wing".

2. 15m 10 Climb face to edge of "wing" and move slightly right. Ascend open book to good stance. Tree and block belays.

3. 15m 11 Move 5m left onto buttress (right "wing" of BUTTERFLY) and ascend steeply to summit.

Starts directly opposite CEDARBERG CRESCENT.

1. 34m 8 Ascend sloping grey face immediately to right of a large tree and deep crack to foot of dirty gully section. Scramble up gully to top.

The obvious crack up the left wall of BUTTERFLY. Scramble up to a stance at the base of a short recess a few metres below and to the right of the crack.

1. 25m 22 Climb up a few metres and traverse left into the base of the crack. Climb the crack and exit right near the top. From the ledge (on BUTTERFLY), traverse left across the face to the arete, and climb this to the summit.

The route aims for a crack running up the centre of a large butterfly shaped buttress.

Frog Face climbs the left edge of a large recess. Downstream of the recess is a buttress at the top of which is a crack and the faces on either side of the crack form a very obtuse angle. The crack and the faces resembles a butterfly's body and wings. Easily scramble up the right hand side of the large recess. The climb starts about 15m up from the stream.

1. 40m (11) Climb up in the direction of the butterfly going up diagonally to the right. Below the butterfly is a crack that faces downstream at the bottom, climb up this and belay a few meters below the butterfly.

2. 15m (17) Ascend the crack up centre of the butterfly. About half-way up the butterfly, traverse left 2m and climb out towards the left of the butterfly.

30m upstream of Cederberg/Tonquani junction is a platform 1.5m above the stream level. 15m above the platform is cave.

1. 15m (7) Start on platform and climb easily up tending rightwards then traverse left into cave.

2. 31m (12) Climb to the left of the cave and then follow shallow recess, past 2 small trees, to a large (1x1x1m) block on the edge above. This point is at the same height as the start of the crux pitches of Golden Balls.

3. 35m (9) Above the belay is a sloping ramp with a hand crack on the right. Climb up this. At the top of the ramp continue straight up to a ledge with a tree shared with Golden Balls.

From the ledge you can scramble out easily to the left and up a gully.

Original variation: The original route traverses right out of cave then up a crack to a wide sloping grassy ledge. Then up to the point where pitch 3 starts.

Commences about 15m downstream of CEDARBERG CORNER and at the right side of a very large broken, dirty triangular shaped face.

1. 20m 5 Start at base of triangle and ascend to about 2m above small tree (Ed Note: In 1939!) on right side of triangle. Traverse horizontally 4m to stance. Rock belay.

2. 20m 7 Continue on face towards apex of triangle to about 5m from the apex. Stance on right side of triangle.

3. 14m 10 Move on wide ledge to right until tree is reached by a chimney. Step onto chimney and ascend 8m. Move on wide ledge to chimney directly above former chimney and ascend 6m.

4. 18m 11 Move to right of red face above the top of the chimney. Ascend the angled recess and move over on left hand face to a small stance. Work to right around overhang and then to the top of it, thereafter following the face straight up. The pitch is perpendicular and exposed but has good holds.

On left wall of gully leading to cave is open book leading up to roof with jam crack.

1. 30m 20 Up corner to roof. Starting at right, pull through and up and easy ground to abseil tree.

Opposite and 10m upstream of CEDARBERG CRESCENT is a large cave in a gully.

1. 15m 16 Start on the right wall of the cave, up and left into open and then bridge through the cave and up to right at flakes.

Note:

Very dubious rock.

Starts 7m upstream and opposite CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to ledge (10m) approximately 5m to the left of LONDON TOWN and FLAT DOG.

1. 12m 19 Move up recess to roof. Move left around roof (crux) and move up to second roof. Traverse right 2m across slab and pull up onto belay ledge (loose blocks).

2. 25m 17 Climb up open book above (5m) and traverse 4m to the right. Move up steep rock above and traverse to the left under the roof to a tree. Move up through the gap in the roof and up the steep wall above to the top. (A steep and exposed pitch for its grade.)

Start in very slight recess 6m upstream of start of CEDARBERG CORNER.

1. 9m 7 Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. (This pitch is common with the first pitch of BUTTERFLY.)

2. 30m 18 Move across right to slit at right end of overhang. Move up through slit (a piton and tension on the back rope used on opening ascent). Climb diagonally up to right to small tree sling point and exit through overhanging recess above.

Note:

The first free ascent was in Mar 1986 by S. Middlemiss and M. Cartwright.

Starts directly under roof mentioned in LONDON TOWN, 10m upstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to a small U shaped corner and then up to the left to the ledge at the end of pitch 1 of LONDON TOWN. This ledge is 3m below and 4m to the left of the slit in the overhang. The first pitch is part of LONDON TOWN's second pitch free and the second goes up the buttress above (to the left of LONDON TOWN and GOLDEN BALLS).

1. 15m 18 Move diagonally up right until under slit at right of overhang (old aid pegs in place) and pull through using distant holds. Follow groove above to stance on very sloping ledge just above a tree.

2. 20m 17 Move left from stance (approx 3m) and up onto a sloping ledge with a tree. Follow the recess above, taking the left fork at 15m to a belay with tree. From here one can abseil, or scramble to top.

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of CEDARBERG RECESS.

1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in CEDARBERG CORNER), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation: 2a. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

A higher-quality alternative top pitch to GOLDEN BALLS. Start at the small tree belay.

1. 30m 20 Ascend the easy crack 3m left of the GOLDEN BALLS corner crack for 10m to a ledge. A diagonal break tends right across the wall above. Climb the break, with the crux low down, and continue directly up the wall to a blocky ledge. Step 2m left and follow an easy corner to a tree belay.

Note:

Excellent climbing. The first 5m of the diagonal break is not over-protected.

A climb on the corner of Cedarberg and Tonquani. A number of grade 6 routes can be picked out on this section following the line of least resistance to the top. Useful descent route.