Routes in Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex for selected grade

1. [19] XXm No route description available.

1. [13] 8m

   Climb steep face to ledge. Continue up corner crack to stance below a thin crack.

2. [19] 25m

   Climb up thin crack to sloping ledge. Traverse diagonally down right and then delicately further right to a small ledge below a steep crack. Climb this and then diagonally up right to a resting ledge just left of the main recess (18). Climb up steeply (19) past overhang in recess to ledge with tree. Continue up on right to next ledge and stance. Climb up shallow rounded recess to top.

Starts 5m left of Bog of Eternal Stench, essentially climbs the pencil crack that is seen from below.

1. [19] 30m Climb up easily to the small ledge under the dihedral. Climb the right face and crack up to ramp. From the ramp climb the center of the face (avoid the corners on either side) up to a big block and another ledge. Joins up with BOES here to climb the splitter. Climb easily to the top.

Be sure to take small gear with you, nuts and cams.

A 2m by 5m roof is situated on the true right wall of Reunion Gully. 'Cream Team' takes the obvious crack up the wall to the left of the roof.

1. 15m 19 Pull up from a hollow sounding rail to reach small holds and follow the crack to the top.

Start 4m to the right of 'Living in the Past'.

1. 20m 19 Climb straight up the face to a ledge at 6m. Balancy moves up right to a peg, then move right to a rest on a nose. Climb straight up above the nose tending slightly left to finish up the steep wall above.

Between Reunion gully and the 'Cream Team' gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.

1. 20m 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.

Takes overhanging recess between 'After the Goldrush' and 'Foad' on the Reunion Buttress. Start 3m left of 'Foad'.

1. [19] 35m Climb up blocky face onto slab below overhang. Pull though overhang into recess above, and follow to top. The grade eases to 15 after 20m.

Note:

The presence of an old rusty peg in the easier upper section suggests that a previous party traversed into this upper portion of the recess, or an abseil took place.

The route starts from the top of the tapered block forming the right hand side of Reunion cave, and climbs straight up through steep rock.

1. [19] 12m

   Climb a slight bulge to footholds beneath the small overhang. Pull through onto easier rock. Move up and step left to stance at base of a recess.

2. [15] 25m

   Follow the recess/cracks to the top. (Slightly unsound rock).

Climbs the wall to the right of 'Reunion Slab'.

1. [19] 25m Starting on the right of the wall, move up and left onto the wall and then straight on up through the roofs to the rap tree.

The route begins in the recess just to the left of 'Kalahari', "steals" about 6m of 'Right Corner Overhang' and then branches off right from 'Right Corner Overhang' to take the steep lay-back/jam crack instead of continuing up to the smooth face of 'Right Corner Overhang'.

1. 20m 18 Climb the recess up to the overhang. Step right onto the arete, up 3m to a handrail and then left to a point just above the overhang. Up to the ledge and stance at the chockstone eye-hole common with 'Right Corner Crag' (old peg).

2. 30m 19 Continue up diagonally right as for 'Right Corner Overhang' to the Y-junction made by 'Right Corner Overhang' (left arm of Y) and the lay-away/jam crack. Strenuous climbing but good nuts brings you to the overhang topping the crack and a difficult move round the corner brings you into a steep but easy crack. Continue to the top and a stance common with 'The Moke'.

Note: Often climbed as a single pitch, using the start of 'Right Corner Overhang' to avoid the belay in the river.

About one third of the way down short gully there is a projecting nose of rock with a poorly defined corner on the upstream side.

1. [19] 10m Pull through the overhang on good holds and climb to the top of the crag.

The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of 'Mike's Despair'. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses 'Mike's Despair' at its first stance.

1. 35m 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of 'Mike's Despair' and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning #3.5 friend crack to the top.

Note:

The slab is excellent thin face climbing.

The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of 'Red Corner', i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.

1. [18] 12m

   Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. 'Red Corner', and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.

2. 20m 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay.

3. 25m 7 Continue up the recess to top.

Variation:

By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (13).

Scramble up the short wall to a grassy ledge, left of 'Red Corner'. Start at the left of 2 short recesses.

1. [13] 20m

   Climb the left-hand recess until it is possible to move into the right hand recess. Follow this to a ledge and move right to where a higher traverse line can be reached (old piton in place). Traverse left and climb a bulge to a ledge.

2. 18m 19 Ascend the wall above and gain the bottomless corner crack. Climb this through a small overhang, above which elephant's ears lead to a mantelshelf out on the left. Belay on this small stance.

3. 20m 17 Scramble over the belayer and climb up to the overhang, then traverse right below this. Finish up the last few meters of RED CORNER.

Note:

The lack of good gear at the 2nd stance will most likely convince you to merge pitches 2 & 3.

Variation:

Originally a 3m traverse right was made at the height of the mantelshelf on pitch 2, to the obvious ledge (20). From there, a grade 15 move was done to join the right-traverse below the large roof.

3a. 22m 20,A2 (The Monkey Puzzle pitch) From the small belay ledge make an awkward move up over the bulge. Move up and right passing just to the left of a big block. Climb straight up to reach the jam crack at the base of the roof. (Piton protection on wall due to loose rock) Traverse left under the roof until in a position to layback up its side. Move right and gain a position on the ledge (strenuous). Use 2 aid points to move to the lip of the overhang where a pull-up enables one to stand on the horn. Scrambling leads to a stance. (May 1982 N. Cleaver and A. Wood.)

Takes a fairly direct slanting line from just left of the 'Pumping Gibbon' start to top of 'Red Corner'.

1. [19] 45m Starting 1 to 2m left of 'Pumping Gibbon', ascend the arete directly up to a stance (15m 17). Here the climb crosses 'Pumping Gibbon', continuing up just to the right of it for 5m before traversing 6m right below the smooth ramp. On the right hand edge of this slab (about 4m left of RED CORNER) climb up to reach a stance below a short open book (15m 19). Ascend this towards the overhang before traversing right along 'Pumping Gibbon' (15m 16).

1. only 1 protection piece around 15m, then stance at 30.

From the top of the first pitch of 'Sepulchre' continue up the steep crack referred to under that climb. This is the crack running up the face immediately right of the 'Sepulchre' cleft. It leans to the left all the way. The crux consists of a move over a bulge into the crack near the start. Near the top of the crack traverse right onto a grey face where the difficulty reduces, and ascend to the top. Direct aid pegs were used on first ascent.

When viewed from the big bathing pool, the grey ('Coffin') buttress is seen to be bounded on the left by a grassy and vegetation-filled chimney. To the right of this chimney, broken red rocks lead to a steep crack, about halfway up which grows a green tree. The upper parts of the crack appear to overhang. To the left of the cave (on 'Coffin' route) which lies directly above the slimy chimney is seen a steep slab which lies back at an easier angle just below the red break-away. To the left of the uppermost part of this slab is seen a ledge and above, the crag lies at an easier angle and is more broken.

The route follows the broken rocks at the bottom of the grey buttress to the base of the red crack (18m 9).

This is followed (11m) to a good ledge behind the upper branches of the green tree. Above this point the crack is forbidding, so a rope may be fixed to a piton.

An abseil of 9m leads to a point where one can traverse left into the crack below the cave (13) and ascend the cave.

Climb the outside wall of the cave for 8m to where a belay can be made high up on the left. The crux pitch now lies ahead.

Emerge from the cave and straddle upwards until it is possible to move left facing in onto the slab. This move may be made at either of two levels. It is possible to traverse with the feet at the level of the top of the sloping slab, using sparse holds on the steep face above for the hands. Alternatively, ascend right to the overhang and traverse mainly on the hands using grips under the roof until a descent can be made in a small recess about 2,5m to the left, to the sloping slab. The crossing of the slab is delicate, but easier.

A small stance can be made at the end of the slab climbing down slightly (piton), but it is safer to continue 12m upwards (18) and make a stance on a good ledge directly above the start of the slab. The move onto the slab would be very difficult to reverse.

Variation:

1. 18 The grassy and vegetation-filled chimney may be ascended from the bottom of the face, obviating the original first pitch and abseil traverse.

The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel Pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.

1. 12m 18 Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from 'Lost Trail'. One man stance.

2. 22m 15 Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached.

3. 30m 7 Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.

Start on the true right hand side of the kloof just downstream from 'Consolation'. Start from the large boulder above the waterfall into the deep pool.

1. 20m 19 Climb up the shallow recess directly above the boulder for 3m then swing left around the corner using a good handhold to the start of a shallow line leading diagonally left. Traverse along this line (crux at 4m) to where it is possible to step down to a small stance.

2. 20m 15 Move back diagonally left to the highest point on pitch 1. From here climb directly up to about 3m below the line of overhangs. Traverse right for about 6m until almost at the first stance of 'Consolation' and then ascend 2m to a small stance.

3. 15m 15 Traverse left above the overhangs to a small stance in a groove (stance 2 on 'Acapulco').

4. 35m 17 As for pitch 3 of 'Acapulco'.

The route starts immediately downstream of the "Big Deep Pool" and follows the steep wall immediately above it. The initial objective is a cave containing bushes, about 12m above the pool.

1. [18] 20m

   From the lower end of the pool, climb a gangway leading up left. Where this ends at a narrow ledge, climb the very steep wall above, moving slightly right, climb a short groove and move right into the cave.

2. 15m 18 Climb the crack at the back of the cave to a good thread in the roof. Using a peg (in place) in the right wall, make a long difficult swing to gain a small ledge on the arete. Follow a short groove up right, and step right to a small stance (immediately above the pool).

3. 37m 17 Climb straight up the steep wall above for 9m to a ledge where the angle of the wall eases. Traverse right and continue diagonally up right on good holds, until it is possible to climb up left to a large ledge. Scramble to the top. Variation:

4. 15m 19 Climb up the steep face in the right hand side of the cave moving right around the arete 3m up, to continue up the groove above.

The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of 'Genesis' on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south - Boggling climbing.

1. 25m 18 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.

Note: Excellent climbing on steep clean rock.

This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of 'Scandal', immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy recess.

1. 30m 18 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in its’ base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent "TM" style grips, at grade 15.

Takes the second obvious crack system / open book upstream of the descent gully mentioned in 'When All Else Fails, Dyno'.

1. 20m 8 Climb the easy crack / book up to the large ledge below the striking roof with a crack along its full width.

2. 10m 18 Climb the awkward bulge just upstream of the striking roof. This is difficult, exposed and poorly protected. Pull up the easier rock above to the comfortable stance on top.

Notes:

1. Protection on the crux is marginal.

2. All in all, bold climbing

3. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream.

Start 5m left of the pillar in a right leaning break. 2 bolts protect the face in mid section of the climb. Abseil off the tree and use trad gear to protect the first few meters.

Climb the recess to right of the slab.

Climb the slab past the bush.

Takes a line up the cliffs opposite and slightly downstream from the Detroit Wall area.

This route goes up the south face of 'Red Column' buttress i.e. upstream and around the corner from 'Red Column Face'. Scramble up from the stream bed for approximately 40m. The route starts below the only obvious break about 2m right of the arete.

1. [19] 40m Do a difficult move up the break to an awkward resting place. Continue up and then diagonally right to a recess. Climb the recess easily to a point where it is divided into an easy looking left fork and a steeper right fork. Climb the latter to under an overhang. Swing right onto the arete to a resting place round the corner. Climb the grey recess on the right to the top.

A variation to 'Red Column'. Scramble up as for 'Red Column' up to a huge block. 'Red Column' goes right around the corner from here.

1. [17] 30m

   Climb straight up the thin crack from the top of the block. Continue left up the ramp and walk left to below big flake.

2. [19] 30m

   Climb up to the top of the flake (13). Climb overhanging crack past root and to the top.

The lower part of the route uses parts of the common pitches of 'Staircase' and 'Red Column'. Start from a large pool under the downstream face of 'Red Column' and scramble up a short wall and across right past a tree and up to belay at the base of two grooves.

1. [15] 12m

   Ascend the right hand groove a few meters and swing right onto the steep wall (3m below overhang) and ascend on good holds. Continue up the slab to a good ledge and peg belay. (4,5m as for 'Staircase' and 'Red Column'.)

2. [19] 22m

   Climb the steep crack immediately behind with difficulty and continue up a shallow steep recess (3m) as for 'Staircase' and 'Red Column'. Ascend the corner above to a large ledge and tree belay on the left ('Staircase').

3. [19] 18m

   Climb the wall immediately right of the tree and directly up for 9m then move right along ledges. From the right end of the ledge make strenuous moves up left (4,5m) to peg (in place). From the peg traverse right to a flake below a small tree and up to a small stance.

4. [15] 22m

   Move up a few meters above the tree and traverse right to blocks on the arête. Move up left onto the slab and up right onto the nose. Continue up the wall above to the top.

Note:

There is fine exposure on the final pitches. Pitch 3 opened using a tension traverse.

Scramble up to grassy ledge below 'Short Circuit'. Climb follows left-leaning corner 10m to right of 'Short Circuit'.

1. [18] 35m

   Climb left-leaning open book to blocky ledges (15m). Move right onto wall with handrail. Traverse across wall moving up towards end (10m). Climb steep recess (just to left of easy chimney) to belay ledge.

2. [17] 30m

   Follow open book above (mostly climbing on left face) to ledge above. Carry on up open book as it steepens, squeezing past creeper at top.

Note:

The corner of pitch 1 was first climbed in Dec 1985 by A.J. Smith, B. O’Meara and K.M. Smith as 'Megawhat'.

Climbs the hanging corner left of 'Circuit-Breaker'. Start 10m left of the start of that route at a ledge underneath a small prow of rock.

1. ?m 19 Pass the prow on the right and gain the layback crack (difficult move where the crack runs out). Climb past the tree and then right to finish up the off-width crack.

This route and Prime Sending Conditions both climb a lovely wall perched high up on the downstream junction of Boulder and Lower Tonquani (opposite and downstream from Sabre). Well worth it just for the views. The climbing is good too. Access from the top by scrambling out to the point of the peninsular between the two kloofs. Leave some fixed gear and rap 25m down to a nice ledge with soft grass. The two lines are a few meters apart and are obvious. Routes named after a display of alpine climbing prowess later in the day, when a family of four (including two small kids) calmly climbed a route out of Boulder in a fearsome thunderstorm.

Climb the corner on the right, stepping right at the roof and then back left.

Situated 5 metres upstream of 'Can-Can'. Scramble 5m up to ledge.

1. [17] 30m

   Climb crack up to overhang, move right on to small slabs and up to belay ledge.

2. [4] 15m

   Scramble up to right to below a red corner on right hand side of buttress above.

3. [18] 35m

   ???3. 35m 18 Climb corner and face above to top.

Start as for 'Can-Can'. Scramble up to ledge (5m).

1. [18] 35m

   Climb the first 8m of the corner as for 'Can-Can' and instead of traversing left, move through the left hand side of the overhang and back right to the crack which is followed to the belay ledge.

2. [16] 35m

   Climb up the open-book which runs to the top of the cliff for approximately 10m. Move right under a flake and up into another narrow open-book, which is followed to top.

Located between the top pitches of 'Foxtrot' and 'Quickstep'

1. 35m 19 Climbs the corner and face above between the top pitches of 'Foxtrot' and 'Touch and Go' / 'Quickstep'

The climb is about 15m upstream from 'Dark Gully' . A square grey buttress extends from halfway up the krantz. Above this the face is steep and reddish.

1. [10] 22m

   Scramble up to the left side of the grey buttress, traverse left around corner, continue up line of narrow crack to tree, move left and up, and finally bear right to top of buttress.

2. [6] 12m

   Ascend grey rock above base of red recess.

3. [17] 22m

   Up recess to overhang, then move right and up via three narrow off-balance steps. A little higher than the last step move left and up to top via crack. This pitch is steep and sustained.

Variation:

1. 20m 18 Move up recess to overhang. Traverse left thinly to clear roof. Mantle onto hold at base of small open book above. Ascend this to under roof. Step right onto easier ground. Move up open book above to gain large stance. (May 1987 S. Kelsey and Tim P. Willmot)

Scramble up 'Dark Gully' until able to traverse right onto a ledge with large squat grey pinnacle on it. Belay here.

1. 18, 35m Scramble/climb up the easy corner above the pinnacle until able to step right onto the large ledge beneath the imposing steep red face. Climb up on the right then step back left to the base of the main face. Climb this directly to an obvious traverse line that leads to a small ledge on the left arête. Climb the arête to the top.

Descent: Rap from a tree down 'Dark Gully'

Takes a left slanting fault line across the next buttress upstream from 'Contention Buttress' , i.e. about 20m downstream of Cedarberg-Tonquani junction on the true right hand side. Scramble up to shallow cave and traverse right on large blocks then ascend grassy slope for 30m to large triangular grassy ledge (cairn).

1. [19] 35m

   Ascend short open book to ledge, climb crack system in face above until able to reach a small tree. Surmount the overhang (crux) to gain the wall immediately to the left. Move diagonally up and left to gain the base of the red groove. Step right and ascend the shallow chimney above, moving left where the chimney peters out to gain a tree belay.

2. [11] 35m

   From stance move right until above a small triangular-shaped ledge (The Pulpit), ascend groove system on good holds to top. A pleasant pitch.

Takes a diagonal left-slanting line across 'Contention Buttress' which is situated 40m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction on the true right side, opposite 'The Doppler Effect'. Scramble up 20m to the left, past a large cave, onto a good ledge in the corner.

1. [10] 30m

   Climb up the corner for 4m. Traverse right for 6m. Climb up the ridge to a belay ledge below a reddish wall on the front of the buttress.

2. [19] 18m

   Follow the thin left-slanting crack across the red face exiting left with difficulty to a small ledge and bush. From here either go left and steeply up to a large ledge (15) or climb the overhanging chimney to the right (15) to the same ledge.

3. [13] 12m

   Climb the steep, fist-width crack on the left to a large ledge.

4. [15] 30m

   Climb the wall behind the pinnacle and up through a small wide open book at top left. Cross the ledge and climb the final wall via a corner on the right.

A mega classic. Climbs the slab to the left of top pitch of 'The Hourglass'. Climb the first pitch of Xstacy to belay on a narrow foot ledge beneath the slab.

1. 25m 19 Climb straight up the middle of the slab to the tree at the top of 'The Hourglass'.

Start directly opposite Boulder Kloof on the true left-hand side of Tonquani. Seen from halfway up Boulder Kloof, the route takes a line up a thin crack on a pinkish face. Scramble up a gully from the stream bed, then move out left and up easy rock. Traverse back right to a bushy ledge.

1. [15] 15m

   From the ledge climb a corner until possible to traverse left. Move up to an overhanging wall and continue traversing left to a good ledge.

2. [19] 23m

   Traverse back right under overhanging wall. Move up through a break in the wall to a small corner. Skip up into the bigger corner above. Step over into a crack running up the face. Zip up this to an easier break and continue up, moving out right near the top to a good ledge.

Notes:

a) A brilliant route, that is made better by using the direct start of 'Dennis the Menace' , which is the crack immediately below the second pitch. b) Expect to find wasps on this route.

Variation:

For a direct finish, climb pitch 2 for 18m, where it is possible to move 2m right to belay ledge (tree and block).

1. [19] 22m Continue as the normal route but then move left below the large overhang. From a pedestal below the roof climb the roof crack (exposed). (Jul 1982 J. Holding and K. Jones)

The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of 'Gnasher' and 'Dennis the Menace' , and is directly in line with the lower part of Boulder kloof. The climb (marked by cairn) starts in a vague recess and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend right.

1. 20m 19 Straddle up the recess to the base of the slanting crack, move right then up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left to above the crack and ascend the step-like ledges to top.

At the junction of Boulder Kloof and Lower Tonquani is the "lunch rock", 14m downstream of this rock is an obvious diagonal crack splitting the steep wall.

1. [18] 15m Climb the crack to a tree.

The objective is the headwall which is the stream-facing wall of the 'Pullman' nose. Scramble up to start of 'Pullman' third pitch and move to the right below an open book of dark rock.

1. [16] 15m

   Ascend the open book, passing a small bush near its' base. Make an awkward move left at the top and then follow the cracked ramp right to a tree belay.

2. [19] 35m

   On the headwall above are two faint crack lines/weaknesses. Step off the block next to the tree and gain the right hand weakness. Ascend slightly right to gain the ledge above. Follow the obvious line of weakness above to a broad ledge and continue to top.

Takes the crack to the left of 'Diagonal Street' .

1. 12m 19 Starting as for 'Diagonal Street' , climb the crack.

The start is situated about 8m upstream from where Cedarberg Kloof joins Lower Tonquani.

1. [13] 15m

   Move diagonally up left over broken face to good ledge with tree. (This involves an awkward mantle shelf move.)

2. [18] 12m

   From left hand end of ledge move 4,5m up recess to square ceiling. Using fist-jam/layback technique climb up 90o open book to wide ledge. (A great pitch)

3. [11] 30m

   Scramble up 4,5m then move left around corner. Up 6m of broken portion of steep face to larger ledge. Walk left 4,5m along ledge and climb diagonally right up ramp to top.

The route takes the overlapped face immediately upstream of 'Ivory Madonna' starting at the bottom right and finishing at the top left.

1. [19] 40m Start at the stream bed immediately below the start of 'Ivory Madonna' . Move up to the short very overhanging open book. Power up this to reach the base of the 'Ivory Madonna' wall at its upstream extremity. Move left and up over the projecting nose to reach the very steep wall above. Engage mind in neutral and climb the wall moving up diagonally leftwards to reach the steep open book above. Layback up the book awkwardly and move more easily to reach a comfortable belay stance above. Scramble to finish.

Notes:

1. An excellent, sustained, steep route for what, at first glance appears to be choss.

2. Protection, though thin, is adequate. The 'scramble' to the top, from the belay stance, may need a rope.

This climb starts at stream level, about 10m downstream of 'Breakfast in Bed' .

1. [11] 20m

   Scramble up nondescript rock to large flat ledge with steep overhanging face ( 'Ivory Madonna' ) on left.

2. [18] 15m

   Climb chimney/crack to right of steep overhanging face with crack up centre. The crux is near the top.

Note:

Being small may be an advantage, but opening party managed even though they both were taller than 1,92m. i.e. grade is 19 for larger persons and as easy as 16 for smaller persons.

This climb is situated in the huge chimney recess 50m downstream of the Cedarberg / Tonquani junction, starting about 15m to the right of 'Reign Of Fire'.

1. [18] 25m

   Climb the crack system on the left hand wall of the huge recess/chimney (looking inward) i.e. climb the cracks to the overhang, pull through small overhang, traverse left for about 1m then continue up to ledge just above tree.

2. [13] 25m

   Move up recess behind stance for 1 to 2m then move right onto exposed nose of buttress. Continue up for about 5m exiting right to tree belay.

Note:

Very pleasant route on good rock, good exposure on second pitch. For descent abseil off good tree at top of second pitch (one 45m abseil sufficient).

40m below the Wade Pool which is below the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction is a prominent narrow buttress capped by a prow. Gain the vegetated ledge which runs left at 6m. Start 5m left of the centre of the prow buttress.

1. [13] 12m

   Make an awkward move to surmount two rock steps in a shallow recess and continue to a tree belay on the right, below a large flake crack.

2. [15] 12m

   Move right and up right to a small ledge on the face of the buttress. Continue directly up the face to a narrow ledge and peg belay near a block at the right end

3. [18] 9m

   Ascend the right arete a few meters and move strenuously into the groove on the right. (The belay peg was used as a foothold in opening ascent). Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.

4. [19] 15m

   Move up onto a block on the left arete and make a very "long" reach to a good hold. Pull up strenuously and continue up to a belay above the chimney. (The "long" reach was so long that the leader stood on his helmet to gain the height required. Grade 20 without helmet?)

5. [15] 18m

   Traverse right under the prow (5m) and ascend the chimney-crack to the top.

Variation:

1. Instead of pitch 1 as described ascend shallow chimney 3m further to the left.

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Start 3m left of arête at a pillar leading through the roof 5m up.

1. [18] 30m Climb the pillar and follow the left tending break above.

This route takes the arete between 'Dom's Party' and 'Callisto Crack' .

1. 35m 19 Start as for 'Callisto Crack' , but when possible make a tricky step left to a small ledge. Move up to the base of a small cubby hole below the roof. A long move right brings one to the arete, the right hand face of which is easily followed to the same stance as 'Dom's Party' .

Note:

Gear is adequate and the route may be a bit reachy for shorter climbers.

This climbs the break 2-3m left of 'Skelda' . Route is about 20m high.

1. 20m 19 Climb the break 5m left of 'Waiting for the Sun' , move right near the top to exit.

On small crag close to the upper campsite. Route follows right facing dihedral capped by overhang, about 20m from the campsite on the true right hand side of the river. Walk around corner to base of route.

1. [18] 20m Gain dihedral (and crack just to the right of it) by a tricky move, and continue to overhang. Through overhang on left to ledge, and up easy hand crack above.

The climb starts 5m left of 'Carrion Comfort' up the crack on the downstream side of the buttress.

1. 10m 19 Follow the crack line.

Start on true right hand side of kloof about 15m downstream of 'Twist and Shout' . Shin diagonally up roots for 5m to a ledge beneath the obvious break.

1. [19] 25m Climb the recess for 8m to a ledge below a steep, smooth groove. Opt out and traverse 7m left around the corner to a large white tree at the base of second smooth steep recess. Climb this to top.

1. [19] XXm Climb the overhanging face to the left of 'Church Window' for 15m before linking with 'Church Window' . Gear good even though it looks quite bad.

The start is just to the left of 'Deception' .

1. [11] 25m

   Climb up to tree and continue upwards behind tree to a high level traverse to the left. Traverse left around corner and continue to small stance in niche below main overhang.

2. [19] 17m

   Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with hand jam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.

3. [13] 34m

   A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few meters then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.

On a subsequent occasion a more direct first pitch was opened, which, owing to dampness, was avoided by opening party.

1. [19] 22m

   About 25m upstream of swimming pool is a wet vegetated groove. Start 3m left of the wet groove and move up to a nose, then traverse left across a slab to the bottom of a short corner. Move up this awkwardly to a large ledge which is traversed right for 8m to the steep crack above the wet groove. Move up and using a flake on the right wall, make a difficult move past the overhanging block to a niche. Continue up a steep funnel to another niche and peg belay below the main overhang.

2. [19] 17m

   Move up to overhang and layback into groove above. Climb straight up to large niche. Climb high up the niche then step left onto overhanging face. Climb short face to good hand knobs above and then with hand jam and fancy footwork traverse out left and gain a good stance on an arete.

3. [13] 34m

   A delicate step left into recessed ramp, climb diagonally up and right for a few meters then follow main depression bearing slightly left to tree 15m up. Continue upwards bearing slightly left then back right into corner which is followed to the top.

The route takes an impressive line up the steep buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool and finishes up the slanting chimney crack which can be seen from 'Frog Gully' . Start 18m downstream of the swimming pool below a tree-filled corner immediately left of 'Cedarberg Traverse' buttress.

1. [15] 25m

   Ascend the corner to trees in a recess (6m) and continue up to a large ledge and belay (as for pitch 3 belay of 'Cedarberg Traverse' )

2. [16] 18m

   Traverse right ( 'Cedarberg Traverse' in reverse) until one can move up to gain a white slab above. Move right and up to the top right hand corner of the slab whence an exhilarating swing right is made. Continue more easily up to a large ledge and belay.

3. [19] 18m

   Move to the extreme right end of the ledge and up the initial overhang in the slanting chimney-crack. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue to the top with two good resting ledges. A fine, impressive pitch in a superb position.

Note:

1. This is one of the best routes in the Magaliesberg – climb it.

2. There is a bolted anchor at the top from which you do a 60m abseil to the kloof floor.

Start about 9m left of 'Fistula' and immediately opposite start of 'Frog Face' and large trees in centre of kloof.

1. [15] 9m

   Mantle shelf onto ledge, then ascend on right to corner 3m below ledge forming first stance of 'Fistula' . Traverse 6m onto large ledge. Move up right hand corner onto the 'Fistula' ledge.

2. [19] 3m

   Ascend overhanging recess to ledge. Stance common with second stance of 'Fistula' .

3. [15] 30m

   From extreme left of stance, ascend 12m to piton point and up right to slab below overhanging face with crack in centre. Proceed up crack and move left between two trees. Ascend 9m up large steps and onto large ledge.

4. [7] 30m

   Ascend 30m over clean face to ledge below overhanging red face.

5. [15] 15m

   Ascend to right onto large block to right of face. Move up to corner and summit.

Starts on right side of large recess about 20m upstream from the junction with 'Lower Tonquani Kloof'

1. [19] 21m

   Climb face on right side of recess to platform Ascend 3m to piton point. Traverse left 2m into corner with vertical crack. Move 2,5m up and then semi-hand traverse left 2,5m to possible stance. Diagonally up and right for about 2,5m into crack which cuts overhang. Climb crack for 5m to stance.

2. [16] 20m

   Continue 6m up recess to overhang and move across to good holds on right. Ascend 5m and turn second overhang to right. Ascend face to tree belay.

Variation:

1. 15m 18 Start in the same place as the first pitch. Instead of moving right, climb straight up the crack. Step to the left to rejoin the original route. (This pitch is well protected.) (Jan 1990 A. Margetts and P. McCann)

Climbs the vague arete between 'Sunday Driver' and 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [19] 15m Move up and left beneath a small roof to gain a layback crack which is followed to large holds. Continue to a ledge.

Opposite the Golden Pitcher there is a large cave situated 15m above the stream. Start on the left side of the cave directly below its top.

1. 20m 17 Climb up 3m until opposite a block-like projection. Move left onto the block and continue up via difficult moves until it is possible to hand-traverse on rounded holds to a ledge. Climb up the face until level with the top of the cave, traverse right and move up to the gully.

2. 15m 18 On the face to the left of the gully there is an obvious steep crack slanting right. Climb up the gully until a traverse left to the base of the crack can be made. Climb the crack until just above the bulge, then traverse 2m left to a block on the face. Continue up 3m to a ledge on the arete.

3. 30m 13 Climb diagonally right for 6m to the crack of pitch 2, then continue straight up for 25m.

The route takes the open book which forms the back of the deep recess opposite RED FALCON CRAG. The objective is the clean slab high above the book.

1. 35m 15,R1 Climb up under the roof capping the cave at the back of the gully. A lot of broken loose rock. Use the tree root to avoid the loose stuff and break out right under the roof to gain the book above. Ascend the book to the grassy stone with large detached blocks at the base of the ramp.

2. 35m 18 Start under the prominent crack system bisecting the slab. Move diagonally up left to a good handrail (and some gear). Rail right to gain the base of the crack system. Climb up the crack until it peters out, thrutching through a small tree in the process. Rail right to gain a small open book, the right wall of which faces upstream. Gain the book, with some difficulty and climb up to the sloping stance at the top with a small tree and chicken head.

Note:

The R1 means "liberal use of root". The second pitch is good slab climbing. The rails are foot holdless.

Halfway down FROG GULLY there is a broad ledge on the true right hand side of the gully. The route starts 3m to the right of a tree at a point where the branches touch the rock (cairn).

1. 22m 19 Pull onto face, 1m right of its undercut base and ascend directly to large block on the left. Make a rising traverse right to gain the finger-jam crack at the base of the open groove containing a tree. Ascend the groove to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 From stance make rising traverse right for about 4m to gain a series of large knobbles and then ascend the thin crack above. Pull over the bulge above, step left and continue directly up the pillar above. Finish up the flake-crack on the left.

Starts in FROG GULLY 7m to the right of AERODYNAMICS. Scramble up 5m to large cubbyhole at base of route (cairn).

1. 15m 19 Climb up steep grooves on back of cubbyhole-recess until they close up necessitating wide bridging to reach tree.

2. 20m 15 Straddle up to base of chimney and wriggle to top (strenuous).

The climb is situated just downstream of FROG GULLY and can be seen from the swimming pool. It starts up the grey buttress to the right of the gully and makes for a vertical, upstream facing, right-angled red open book.

1. 25m 7 Climb the buttress, bearing in towards the base of the right-angled open book recess.

2. 14m 18 Climb left hand face of open book recess for 6m. About halfway up, move right 30cm or so into corner. Ascend in crack 3m. Move out right and up 3m to cubby hole. Move right and up to stance 1,5m.

3. 12m 7 Climb to right of tree to top.

Variation: (four stars)

To the left of pitch 3, the main buttress continues for a further 12m.

3a. 12m 17 Step back left over the main corner pitch, gain the groove above and follow the continuation crack for a further 6m. Move left for 2m and continue to the top. (Apr 1990 R. Dodding and P. Fatti)

About 25m below the main swimming pool, a large roof can be seen high up with an obvious jam crack cutting through it. Scramble to the base of the face below this roof.

1. 30m 18 Follow the faint crack in the centre of the face (fixed piton protecting crux), moving left higher up to gain the ledge above. Climb the short face (old piton), using arete on left to ledge, and continue steeply to good tree.

2. 15m 17 Swing right (yalpesroH) to beneath the roof and its crack, and thus gain the belay ledge above.

Note:

On pitch 1, it is possible to continue straight up the crack instead of moving left at grade 22.

3m to the right of HORSEPLAY.

1. 25m 18 Climb the open book and continue up to a stance common with HORSEPLAY.

This route starts from the same shelf as TIGATRIX and ARRABELLA-MELLA. Scramble up on to the shelf from just downstream of FROG GULLY. Walk downstream along the shelf. 10m right of ARRABELLA-MELLA is an upstream facing corner, at the point where the shelf finishes. 1m left of the corner is a crack which runs up to a small roof at 6m. Start at the base of this crack.

1. 20m 18 Climb the crack and gain the shelf below the small roof with difficulty. Move 1m left and hence gain the continuation crack in the small corner. Follow this to easier ground above and hence a stout tree. Rap off this, back to the shelf.

"Beware ... the Under Toad."

Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of SIDEWALK. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.

1. 35m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.

2. 20m 19,A1 Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.

3. 25m 10 Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.

Downstream from TIGATRIX there is a large arch on the true left. HANGDOG climbs the centre of the left pillar of the arch. SIDEWALK climbs the inside (upstream) corner of the right pillar, then rails right. This route takes the front of the right hand pillar, then the shallow open book and crack on the left arête of the right hand pillar. Start from the large flat-topped boulder just above the lower swimming pool. This is directly below HANGDOG. Scramble up to a grassy ledge, scramble/traverse right to a corner and scramble/climb up to a good platform below the right hand pillar. It might be a good idea to use a rope for this scramble.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face on the front of the pillar to below the big roof. Rail left to the arête and pull around the overhang to get into the base of the shallow open book. Step right to a foot ledge and climb the thin crack until able to step back left into the shallow open book. Climb to the rail and rail right to the arête (shared with SIDEWALK). Step right onto the front of the pillar and climb jugs to the top.

Notes:

1. Small cams and wires are useful.

2. The route was cleaned of loose rock before being led.

Starts 7m upstream and opposite CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to ledge (10m) approximately 5m to the left of LONDON TOWN and FLAT DOG.

1. 12m 19 Move up recess to roof. Move left around roof (crux) and move up to second roof. Traverse right 2m across slab and pull up onto belay ledge (loose blocks).

2. 25m 17 Climb up open book above (5m) and traverse 4m to the right. Move up steep rock above and traverse to the left under the roof to a tree. Move up through the gap in the roof and up the steep wall above to the top. (A steep and exposed pitch for its grade.)

Start in very slight recess 6m upstream of start of CEDARBERG CORNER.

1. 9m 7 Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. (This pitch is common with the first pitch of BUTTERFLY.)

2. 30m 18 Move across right to slit at right end of overhang. Move up through slit (a piton and tension on the back rope used on opening ascent). Climb diagonally up to right to small tree sling point and exit through overhanging recess above.

Note:

The first free ascent was in Mar 1986 by S. Middlemiss and M. Cartwright.

Starts directly under roof mentioned in LONDON TOWN, 10m upstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to a small U shaped corner and then up to the left to the ledge at the end of pitch 1 of LONDON TOWN. This ledge is 3m below and 4m to the left of the slit in the overhang. The first pitch is part of LONDON TOWN's second pitch free and the second goes up the buttress above (to the left of LONDON TOWN and GOLDEN BALLS).

1. 15m 18 Move diagonally up right until under slit at right of overhang (old aid pegs in place) and pull through using distant holds. Follow groove above to stance on very sloping ledge just above a tree.

2. 20m 17 Move left from stance (approx 3m) and up onto a sloping ledge with a tree. Follow the recess above, taking the left fork at 15m to a belay with tree. From here one can abseil, or scramble to top.

Situated 2m right of STYX.

1. 23m 19 Climb the overhang and continue up the face to the top of the crag.

This climb is situated about 100m upstream of the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. It is characterized by a smooth sloping slab with an overhang halfway up the slab and a crack running up the top section.

1. 23m 18 Climb directly up the thin face on the left of the corner, towards the overhang. Break through the overhang to below a crack. Ascend the crack above the overhang to the top of the crag.

Note: Thin climbing with adequate protection using small wires.

Just upstream of the SLIPSTREAM buttress is an abseil descent gully. 9m upstream of this, the cliff turns back towards the stream bed. The route ascends the open book so formed and has as objective, the clean, crisp, open book visible high up.

1. 23m 14 Climb the groove pulling over the large chockstone. Amble up the gully and pull over the second block to a large comfortable ledge at the base of the clean steep open book with finger crack in corner.

2. 16m 18 Take off with difficulty and layback, stem, jam up the crack and through the bulge above. Exit right at top of book.

Notes: Steep in places. Protection is good. The second pitch, although short, is excellent clean climbing.

Start at the base of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the meetspot. If approaching from the top end of the kloof, this is the first climbable rock to reach the streambed on the true right hand side. The route follows the corner just to the right of a thin arete.

1. 35m 18 Ascend in corner on right hand side of prominent rib for 5m until forced out right by overhang (2m 18). Stand on narrow rail on right and bridge up until able to swing right into resting place (5m 17). Climb up to layback crack and either layback (3m) to ledge or layback until able to move right and then up to ledge. From ledge swing left and then mantleshelf. Follow crack on good holds to summit.

Note: Has a variety of technical moves on good rock and is well protected.

Variation:

Starting off the block 3 meters right of the original, corner start to SLIPSTREAM, below the blunt arete.

1. 8m 18 Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete. Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge. Good gear in rails. Fun.

The route is situated on a very impressive buttress about 20m upstream of COMANICI. It follows a corner, then chimney between IPSO FACTO and THE DAMAGE DONE.

1. 30m 19 Climb the corner to a roof, move 1m right and enter the chimney above. Climb up to huge chockstone before exiting on the left.

Start at base of wall forming right hand side of the prominent grey arete a few metres upstream of the Boulder Kloof Campsite.

1. 35m 19 Climb centre of wall to reach arete just below small overhang (existing bolt runner). Continue up arete and slab until possible to move left to good resting ledge. Better holds lead to second overhang. Move awkwardly left around this and right around final overhang and up short wall to large platform. Scramble up easy rock to top.

4m right of COMANICI in a prominent V-groove in the overhangs. Start at the crack in the lower slabs behind the tree.

1. 22m 19 Climb crack and V-groove until stopped by the over-hang. Hand-traverse left (peg runner) to small foothold by aloe. Pull into groove and continue for a few metres until a step right gives a good stance.

2. 15m 9 Climb groove and then the broken ground above.

Takes the obvious crack and clean steep wall right of TRIO.

1. 45m 19 Follow crack easily until it trends to the right. Move up and slightly left to reach large white hand-hold under overhang. From here bridge across to reach grip on left edge of overhang and make a difficult swing to reach tree in gully. Continue up slab on right of gully to ledge. Move right to base of crack in upper face. Climb this and wall above on progressively better holds direct to top.

Start under the big roof immediately to the right of TRIO.

1. 20m 18 Climb up the crack in the corner to the base of the roof. Move out under the roof to the right and pull through the roof on good holds onto the headwall. Climb up to the big ledge shared with TRIO. Finish as for TRIO.

After walking up Boulder Kloof for about 100m, the foot of the rock cuts back on the left. Set back above the lower cliffs is a prominent red pinnacle/buttress, with an appealing crack in its centre.

1. ?m 13 Scramble up clean grade 8 gully on the right, to the base of the red buttress, or find the motivation to climb through steep rock on the left (13).

2. 20m 18 Climb the crack (moving left if necessary halfway up) to the summit.

About 10m downstream of the spectacular GREGARIOUS crack is an overhanging brown wall. This provides a suitable first pitch to the route. Start in a square corner that faces upstream.

1. 35m 19 Climb the corner for about 4m then move diagonally right until able to ascend using wide straddles up steep rock. About 4m above the chimney, traverse left to a ramp and then back diagonally right. From the top of the pitch scramble right 10m to the base of the GREGARIOUS crack pitch.

The route starts 4m left of BARDOT in an obvious corner, with a large ledge 4m up on the left. The route ascends the groove on the right wall, immediately above the corner.

1. 35m 19 Ascend to the large ledge, enter the groove and follow it past the tree to the second overhang. The crux is getting through the first overhang/bulge. At the second overhang traverse right onto the arete, and then up to a tree belay.

Note: Protection is sometimes hard to find.

This climb ascends the short steep buttress on the right as one descends the scree ramp in Boulder Kloof just below BARDOT.

1. 10m 18 Climb directly up the face and pull through the overhang.

2. 20m 16 Climb up the easy face above to a ledge below a steeper face. Climb this face to a ledge with tree on the right.

Note: It is easy to scramble off to the right after the first pitch.

The route starts 5m upstream of POSEIDON, at the base of a rightward slanting ramp, and follows this line to a large ledge and broken ground.

1. 30m 18 Climb the rightward slanting ramp to its end, then bearing slightly right continue up to the ledge, and belay point.

Note: The ground above the first pitch is broken and did not appear to offer good climbing. The opening party traversed off to the right. Alternatively, there are plenty of abseil points.

Start as for ADVANCED WALKING.

1. 35m 18 Climb up diagonally right over unprotected slab to the groove between ADVANCED WALKING and DOGMATIC. Climb groove and juggy wall above.

This route starts from the same ledge as DOGSTYLE, about 20m upstream.

1. 30m 19 Climb the obvious broken recess tending diagonally up and right near the top to reach good jugs.

Note: Sustained mild face climbing.

Start approximately 30m up on the right hand side from the Tonquani junction.

1. 25m 13 Climb a slab in a recess to about 3m below some overhangs. Traverse right across a wall to easy ground. Climb a short corner to a large ledge. Either continue up an edge left of some tree roots or move to another corner and up and back on ledge of jumbled blocks below a crack sweeping up red-brown wall.

2. 20m 19 Climb up the crack until it opens into a shallow recess situated 3m below the belay stance. Move over left and up. Belay. Excellent jam crack climbing.

3. 15m 13 To add good climbing, move right under the overhang above the stance and climb up through a V-slot. Traverse slightly left to a nose. Swing up over the nose and continue to some large blocks.