Routes in Northwest Province for selected grade

This rock problem breaks through the prominent roof of 'Frame Route'.

1. 40m 8 Climb clean broken rock to obvious break in roof.

2. 10m 19 Climb awkwardly up left into flared open book below second overhang. Move up to overhang then traverse delicately right until roof ends and climb up right to ledge.

To the left of 'Tweedledee' is a prominent slanting corner capped by a large overhang on 'Sinister' (see the photograph). To the right of this corner are three grooves, the first two leading to a slab and the third one continues up the face. Start directly below the third groove.

1. 18m 19 Gain the base of the groove with a difficult move and up it for 2½ m (poor peg runner). Make difficult lay-away moves up rightwards to the right arete, where good holds lead up to a small stance and good nut belay below a small overhang.

2. 9m 15 Descend 1½ m and traverse left into the groove then across the left wall to a large block stance and peg belay.

3. 28m 15 Gain the shallow groove directly above the stance and from the bulge (9m) move diagonally up right towards the top of the original groove. Move as high as possible then step down across the groove and continue up the groove to a move right below a nose. Up the recess on the right to a peg belay on top of the nose. A very enjoyable pitch.

4. 30m 8 Scramble to the top.

About 200m right of 'Eureka Gully' is a prominent sharp arete extending almost the full height of the crag. Immediately left is an obvious corner with a triangular overhang at 2/3 height and on its left is a black wall capped by overhangs. The route follows the corner to the triangular overhang, then traverse left and directly through the top overhang where they funnel up to the high point. (See photograph.) Scramble up the grass slope to the base of the corner (30m 8). or alternatively climb the rock spur on the left and traverse right to the base of the corner (43m 8). Peg belay.

1. 34m 19 Climb 8m up the corner past a grassy ramp then traverse 8m diagonally left to a grass ledge on the face (peg runner). Move a few metres above the ledge and traverse back right into the corner just above a small overhang. Climb up the corner until forced onto the left face below a bulge, and up to a small stance and peg belay.

2. 25m 17 Move diagonally up leftwards and up a shallow groove to a ledge on the left at 9m (peg runner). Continue up the groove and the face above as far as possible (6m) until a move right can be made into the corner crack. (Moving into the bottom of the crack is much harder.) Follow the corner crack then move leftwards and up to a large chock belay 9m below the overhang.

3. 17m 17 Climb up the corner mainly on the right wall to a chock runner under the overhang, then move down and traverse 8m left about 2m below the overhang to a ledge and peg belay.

4. 23m 15 Continue the traverse left 2m below the overhang then move up onto the arete. Traverse a further 6m and climb 3m up the wall then traverse back right to the small ledge, and peg belay just above the overhang.

5. 43m 19 Climb up leftwards to the base of the steep crack which threads the final overhangs (15m). Climb up to a shallow recess then up the left wall directly to the crack above the bulge (last 5m on small holds). From here continue easily to the top.

Note: The route is much better than general 'Skeerpoort' climbs, providing sustained climbing and a fitting climax through the final overhangs.

Start 20m up 'Four Man Gully' where a horizontal break cuts across the steep smooth gully wall. This is the right-hand wall of Eureka Dome.

1. 30m 19 Traverse left along the break to meet a vertical crack after 12m. Move up to the bulge and using undercuts move up right to a peg (in place), level with the bottom of the groove. Make an awkward move away from the peg to gain the groove, which is followed more easily. Move out left at the top and up right to peg belay below a steep scoop face. (This is at the horizontal fault running across the crag)

2. 12m 17 Ascend the scoop face above with strenuous moves then step right to a ledge and peg belay.

3. 15m 11 Ascend the rib above on the right to a tree belay in a corner.

4. 22m 10 Move up leftwards then across left over slabs to a tree belay.

5. 15m 8 Scramble to the top.

The route ascends the steep grooves at the right of the buttress and follows the steep impressive corner above. Start 5m left of 'Four Man Gully' below the steepest groove.

1. 25m 19 Climb the groove to where it steepens at 6m. Ascend the smooth section, then climb a hollow flake on the right wall. From the top of this, traverse awkwardly onto a very sloping ledge. Traverse a further 6m left using a good handrail to a small ledge and chockstone belays.

2. 22m 17 Traverse 6m left and climb a very steep groove on good holds stepping left immediately above a small overhang. Climb the wall through aloes to a good ledge and peg belay in the horizontal fault running across the crag.

3. 8m 10 Ascend the recess leading up to the huge overhanging corner to a small stance and peg belay on the left.

4. 14m 19 Move up the bulging crack to the first overhang and using the left wall make a difficult move round it. Pass the second overhang using a wide crack to gain the easier-angled groove above. You may see an old wooden block from the original ascent. Lots of bird poo.

5. 25m 19 Make an awkward initial move into the corner above and ascend this with difficulty to 2m below the roof. Swing across the left wall and pull round into a shallow groove which is climbed to its top. Swing back right into the main corner above the roof and up to a good ledge and peg belay. A magnificent, well sustained pitch.

6. 15m 8 Move left and scramble to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [19] 28m

   Climb a loose wall for 6m and step right to the foot of the central groove. Up this using the corner crack to a tiny stance with nut and thread belays at the top.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.

60m ropes are recommended, which will allow a single abseil descent from the tree at the top.

The climb takes the prominent red crack / chimney 50m upstream of STAMVRUG GULLY and 50m downstream of the spring.

1. 10m 5 Scramble through the easy rock band to the large ledge at the foot of the prominent red crack / chimney.

2. 20m 19 Climb the crack/chimney right to its top before traversing several meters to the right to a ledge with a large tree.

3. 33m 13 Climb the chimney above exiting on the right side of it and continue up the arete to the top.

2 meters to the right of 'Finger Thing' is a vertical crack line that tends right to a small roof at 10 meters

1. 23m 18 Climb the crack and surmount the roof (crux). Continue up the crack to its end, then straight up the face above to the right hand end of a good ledge and tree belay (common with 'Finger Thing')

2. 20m 16 From the right end of the stance, climb up tending right to a ledge at 10m. Traverse right 3m to avoid some dodgy large flakes. Climb vertically up through a chimney recess just left of a predominant nose (which can be seen from ground level) to a good ledge in front of a cubby hole.

3. 10m 14 Climb straight up to the top

Situated between 'Homunlulus' and 'Cadbury Double Thick' .

1. 20m 19 Left of the start of 'Cadbury Double Thick' there is a diagonal traverse line running up to the left. Climb this to a small cubbyhole. Move up and around the edge to the same stance as 'Homunlulus'.

2. 25m 17 Climb the arete and move over to the right side. Continue straight up to the top and belay as for 'Cadbury Double Thick' .

This climb starts about 50m upstream of 'Late Breeze' on the left-hand side of a prominent overhang.

1. 30m 19 Climb the ridge to the right of the prominent overhang. Keeping on the ridge move up until a traverse up left past a crack system is made into the prominent open book with large tree in It. Climb the open book past the tree up to the overhang with the crack running through it. Surmount the overhang (crux) and continue up to a good ledge.

2. 30m 17 Climb up the crack passing through the bulging face directly behind the ledge. Continue up to a large ledge with a crack at its rear. Climb this crack to a bush, continue up the recess above.

The route starts immediately left of 'Mark The Ripples', passing through the square-cut overhang above.

1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of 'Mark The Ripples'. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above.

Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

Left of 'Appie Doctor', halfway up the crag a V-shaped groove may be seen. The route ascends the crack below this to gain the groove. Begin 5m right of 'Five Roses' (tiny cave at bed level.

1. 20m 15 Ascend the open book for 10m, move left onto face and up to ledge below crack.

2. 20m 18 Climb the crack to gain the base of the V-groove. Ascend the groove to the top.

The route starts at the tiny cave at bed level marked on the map just downstream of 'Appie Doctor', taking a line from the cave to the top of the overhang above.

1. 35m 19 From the cave ascend easily to below a shallow open book. Climb the open book until able to move right awkwardly onto a small sloping ledge. Continue up the face to a ledge below a slanting dihedral.

2. 35m 17 From the ledge move right (1m) and then ascend the arete. Climb awkwardly at first to gain a shallow open book. Ascend this until directly below the overhanging crack. Pull through the overhang on excellent jams to the top.

Note: It is possible to omit the final overhang by traversing left, where the grade of the pitch falls to 15.

This climb starts almost opposite 'Gunsight' in the centre of a buttress where a root (about 8cm in diameter) from a tree half way up the face passes into the ground.

1. 23m 18 Climb the recess with the root in it until the tree lies to ones left. Make an awkward move rightwards to below an overhang with a crack through it. Climb the overhang (crux) to a good ledge.

2. 15m 13 Moving slightly left above the ledge climb the recess and crack system to the top.

Note: The crux on pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing right lower down and climbing easier rock to the ledge.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 12m 13 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance, and then traverse right to the crack system. Follow this to top.

Note: A good clean enjoyable route.

The climb starts in the base of the recess 4m to the right of 'KB One'. There is a rhombohedral overhang about 20m up.

1. 38m 18 Climb the recess past small trees to the overhang. Pull through the notch in the overhang to the ledge. Traverse 1,5m left under the second overhang, up the face for 3m and back right into the recess above the second overhang. Climb the recess and rib above to the top.

Note: Climbing through the second overhang was done by the second at 19.

This route takes the steep face 5m to the right of and upstream of the climb 'The Squat Pinnacle'.

1. 30m 18 Climb the easy face up to the overhang, move through the overhang on the left side (crux). Continue up the face to a good ledge (avoiding easy open book to the left). Climb the recess/chimney at the back of the ledge to the overhang, surmount the overhang and continue to the top.

Note: This climb can be split into 2 pitches.

This climb is situated 10m upstream of 'North America Wall'.

1. 30m 19 Climb the crack to the right of the large cave overhang until forced right to easier ground, continue up to a small tree. Make a difficult traverse 2m left over lip of overhang to a small stance at base of recess (crux). Follow recess to top of buttress with difficult moves at 3m and 6m.

Note: A good route with sustained climbing from the traverse line onwards. Adequate protection on small nuts.

Take the slim groove 5m right of 'Circle Of Hands'. Step off the tree and climb the groove direct.

This route starts 2 to 3m downstream from 'Circle Of Hands' at the deepest part of a small cave.

1. 15m 19 Ascend the overhanging corner on the left of a small cave just downstream of 'Circle Of Hands'. Continue up the short face above the corner to easier ground.

2. 30m 17 Move left to a short chimney on the left side of a steep face. After climbing up a few meters move right onto the arete and continue up to a ledge below the final steep face. Climb this final face tending slightly leftwards.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to the base of the nose of 'Bonnie' but instead of moving to the left of the nose (as in 'Bonnie'), climb up the crack system to the right of the nose. Continue up into an open book. Climb this to the roof and pull through to a good ledge in common with the normal 'Bonnie' route. Continue as in 'Bonnie'.

The climb starts about 35m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe on the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz. Start just right of a beacon at the base of a recess sloping diagonally up leftwards ('First Choice') and below a prominent buttress split by a shallow recess in the upper half of the cliff.

1. 25m 19 Climb up on the left-hand side of the buttress for 5m. Traverse right across a steep face and then up on to the buttress. Climb diagonally right to the base of an undercut chimney. Climb this (crux) and at the top step left to a small stance in a recess below some steep rock.

2. 30m 17 Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

An alternative start is found 8m further downstream

1. [19] 25m

   Climb up the wall to a semi-layback crack. Continue up until the wall eases off at an off-width crack. Climb this (awkward), then move diagonally left to a prominent nose (bent right). Continue up to a small stance.

2. [17] 30m

   Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

The route starts about 5m downstream of the direct start of 'Fiona's Folly'. The route goes up a groove line for 25m to a large ledge and then up a black water-stained face for 15m to a large ledge. It finally finishes up the overhanging face with the cubbyhole directly above.

1. 25m 15 Climb the groove (awkward start) which lies 5m to the right of the direct start to 'Fiona's Folly'. At 10m traverse a few meters right and continue up the groove via some balancing moves to a large ledge with a tree belay.

2. 10m 10 Climb the black water-stained face above to the large ledge.

3. 20m 19,A1 From the left side of the ledge step down and traverse 5m left to the first of two obvious corners about 2m apart. Climb the corner for a few meters then use aid to overcome the overhang. Make some obvious moves to gain the cubbyhole, then aid to move right out of cubbyhole and up. Make some strenuous moves to gain the top of the face.

Climbs the steep wall 10-15m upstream of 'Rambo' / 'Like A Chimpanzee' / 'Madisons Mistake'.

1. 24m 19 Boulder problem to start and then straight up the steep crack above to a ledge.

This climb starts downstream of 'Fiona's Folly' and 'Petfatars' and ascends an obvious recess with a wide off-width crack in the upper section.

1. 25m 18 Ascend the recess with the crux at the top off-width section. Scramble to a large ledge.

2. 30m 12 Move down and leftward from the ledge to stand on a block. Climb the steep face on good grips to an open book with a slab on the right. Climb the slab to a good ledge.

3. 30m 12 Climb a series of open books up the arete to the top of the crag.

Note: #4 Friends are useful on the 1st pitch.

This climb starts about 12m left of 'Foetus' at a squat 3m pillar in front of a blunt arete.

1. 25m 18 Climb up the front of the pillar. Using some holds on the left, ascend the thin crack on the right. Climb the shallow groove above. Step right onto the arete and pull up to a large ledge.

1. 25m 18 Starting at the tree 5m left of 'Foetus', climb the crack to easier ground.

On the opposite side of the kloof to the 'Punchline' buttress is a smooth pink slightly overhanging face, which faces downstream. The climb goes up the crack line in this face. Scramble 5m up to a large ledge with a deep chimney at the back of it.

1. 35m 19,A2 Climb the groove in the middle of the overhanging pink face on polished rock to a small overhang 8m up. Move right and climb the crack for 3m using one aid point to an off-balance stance. Continue up the crack for 8m using aid and climb the final 3m of the face to a small ledge. Traverse left along the ledge for 5m and move around the corner. Climb the face above for 8m before traversing right 5m and moving down to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 Climb a series of steep corners above to a large ledge 10m up. Continue up the easy corner on the right to the top.

Start upstream of a small buttress angled 45o facing upstream and scramble 15m up to the back of a very deep chimney.

1. [11] 22m

   Climb the back of the chimney by straddling and chimneying and move out right to a large ledge.

2. [18] 22m

   Ascend the magnificent red smooth-sided corner to a large ledge.

3. [6] 7m

   Climb the crack at the back of the ledge.

This climb starts on an elevated ledge 5 to 10m upstream of 'Stoep Polish'. The climb starts in an obvious crack system with a tree growing close to the face.

1. 25m 19 Climb the layback crack for 5m. Using the left face continue up the crack system to a small resting ledge. Continue up to a small overhang. Continue past the overhang to a good ledge with a tree belay.

2. 35m 10 Continue up the crack system behind the ledge to another ledge. Climb the corner with a crack in it and smooth sloping slab on the right to a large ledge.

3. 15m 12 Climb the left-hand crack system, using a tree root, to a good ledge.

On the opposite side of the kloof to the GRASSY SLAB the river runs (occasionally) over some polished slabs right next to the krantz. 'Right Slant' goes up the steep recess above the slabs. 5m upstream there is a corner capped by an overhang 20m up. A small tree grows at the foot of the corner. The climb goes up this corner.

1. 32m 18 Climb the corner to the overhang. Traverse left across the slab beneath the overhang. Traverse a few meters further left and climb up to the cubbyhole at the base of a steep face .

2. 22m 15 Climb diagonally right to the large tree on the face. Continue up to the overhang on the left. Turn the overhang by climbing up and right and continue up to another overhang. Bypass this on the left and continue to the ledge.

3. 27m 8 Scramble up to a face on the right and climb it.

A more aesthetic finish is to be found by climbing the wall direct after the old aid move under the roof.

The intention was to free the aid on 'Right Slant', but a completely new line was found 4m to the right.

1. 20m 17 Climb onto large block then ascend corner to tree noted on Pitch 1 of 'Right Slant'. Belay just above.

2. 20m 18 Straight up into the corner capped by the overhang. Step out onto the right wall and up.

Start approximately 8m downstream of 'Gunsight' , in the triangular cave about 10m up.

1. 30m 18 Climb to apex of cave and exit via crack above. Climb up narrow chimney past overhang to the top.

The route starts 10m left of 'Tiptoe'.

1. [15] 30m

   ???

2. 30m 15 Climb broken face moving diagonally left then right up to a large stance.

3. 10m 11 Climb broad recess to stance.

4. 20m 19 Climb steep dark recess directly above last pitch.

5. 40m 13 Climb arete above to top.

1. 12m 17 As for first pitch of 'Blister Major'.

2. 44m 19 Start as for second pitch of 'Blister Major' but instead of traversing right above first tree, continue straight up crack past second tree with difficult move around left of tree. About 6m from the overhang above the crack peters out and very delicate face climbing brings one up to the overhang. Belay in crack in the roof of the overhang.

3. 9m 8 Climb out right to top.

Note: The thin crack on Pitch 2 is climbed purely on hand and foot jamming.

This climb starts to the right of the buttress of 'Brotherly Love'. Ascend a short gully to the right of the start of 'Brotherly Love'. About halfway up the gully a break starts. The climb ascends the right wall of the buttress and moves leftwards up to a large grassy ledge.

1. 20m 19 Ascend the shallow open book (sparse protection) about halfway up the gully to the right of 'Brotherly Love'. Move left higher up to a grassy ledge shared with 'Brotherly Love'. Small micro nuts useful.

2. 40m 14 Shared with 'Brotherly Love'.

Start about 15m left of 'Chim-Chim Cheree' and also about 10m to the right of the stretcher. The climb ascends the prominent finger-crack after which one traverses left for 6m and then up a pleasant face to the top.

1. 25m 19 Climb the thin crack starting on a good finger-jam and small footholds to its end (crux 3m up). From top of the crack traverse diagonally left (loose blocks) for 6m to a small ledge with chock belay.

2. 45m 11 Find easiest way to the top of an attractive face, and then scramble to the top.

Note: A well protected climb, with the crack at the start the highlight.

The climb is located on the left hand faces opposite the descent gully at the top of the kloof. Start at the base of an open book which leads up to a red overhang. The climb skirts this overhang to the right and then breaks through a second overhang via a bottomless shallow open book.

1. [11] 15m

   Climb open book, stepping right at tree at 5m. Belay in corner on broken rock 2m below first overhang.

2. 20m 19 Climb up diagonally right to below overhangs (3m). Traverse right on good holds onto sloping arete. Swing left on good holds and move up diagonally left to break/open book in second roof. Step up on loose block and wedge trunk into shallow open book. Wedge up open book until a resting point is reached. Climb up break line until angle eases at grade 17.

About 100m upstream of 'Lifebuoy', on the same side of the kloof, is a gully, after which you come to a small rock buttress. The route takes the face facing the kloof. Half-way up there is a ledge where a small tree is visible. Above the ledge is an open book.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face starting about 2m left of the arete. Directly up for 4m and then tend diagonally right towards the arete for 3-4m and then up left to a large ledge with a tree growing on it. Climb the open book directly above and swing up and left to a resting place. Continue up the steep crack directly above to the top.

Walk upstream of 'Lifebuoy' and as the kloof takes a turn to the left a face can be seen with roots hanging down.

1. 20m 19 Climb up past the roots to an open book on the left. Move up the open book to a small ledge. Continue up steep face to a good belay ledge.

2. 15m 12 Above is a recess with a face - climb the recess to the left.

Note: Reach dependent.

Start 5m to the left of 'Lifebuoy'.

1. 40m 18 Climb the face tending diagonally right to just above the "lifebuoy" hold. Continue up the face to the top, just to the right of the 'Lifebuoy Direct' crack.

Start just right of 'Neptune'.

1. 25m 15 Climb good-looking recess 2m upstream of 'Neptune' for 20m. Traverse right immediately below 'Neptune' ledge. Stance at end of ledge.

2. ?m 19 Climb left hand weakness immediately above pillaret to good ledge (good well-rounded grips). Traverse right to small tree and up grey slab to obvious traverse line left. Traverse left for 4,5m. Stance below first recess (parallel to 'Neptune' recess).

3. ?m 13 Climb recess for 3m. Move diagonally up and right to top.

The route is located between 'George' and 'Headache'. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of 'Headache', but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.

1. [18] 15m

   Start from same ledge as 'Headache' but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).

2. [X15,A1] 12m

   Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons (A1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay - this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of 'George').

3. [10] 15m

   Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.

Variations: 2a. 18 Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose. 2b and 3b. 25m 19 Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.

Route takes a column and then a wall to the left of 'Fanlight'.

1. 20m 15 Climb front of column turning the headwall on the left.

2. 10m 17 Step across from summit of the column onto the wall (4m to the left of FANLIGHT). Step diagonally left into shallow recess, then straight up steep wall 5m. Then good holds lead to belay stance.

3. 10m 19 Traverse left on a slab wall to stance directly opposite by using hand rail or by making fine moves slightly higher.

4. 10m 19 Step back right onto wall and climb shallow recess making gymnastic moves near the top to reach small stance under summit overhangs.

5. 15m 17 Traverse right 5m (where a stance can be made if rope drag is anticipated). Step up left onto sloping block and make exposed moves over roof then climb wall to summit.

Note: Owing to zigzag nature of route the pitches have been kept short.

The climb starts about 30m upstream from the start of 'Hospital Hill', at a point where a tall tree is growing close to the cliff. Beginning up a small chimney and continues up an attractive open book to a small tree, then traverses left over Lobotomy and back right again to finish straight up above the starting point.

1. 20m 11 Climb up chimney and open book until you reach a small stance with a small tree.

2. 40m 19 From the stance move slightly right and up for 3m to a small rest point on a large sloping ramp. Then traverse left for 7m (strenuous) to a very exposed rest point below a large semi detached flake. Move around the flake on the left and continue rightwards (awkward), then move rightwards (10m) to a small ledge with 2 good pegs in place.

3. 15m 13 Traverse left for 15m and then climb up short steep face above, between 2 large aloes to the top.

Note: A pleasant and exposed route spoilt by poor protection and bad rock.

The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of 'Skeleton' and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of 'Skeleton' cave and chockstone belay, below the corner.

1. 18m 18 A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by 'Skeleton' is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.

2. 12m 13 Continue up the arete to the top.

The route starts between 'Pinnacle Route' and 'Pink Corner' and goes up the right hand side of the prominent red wall between the two routes.

1. 12m 5 Scramble up the obvious recess to a broad ledge below the red wall.

2. 18m 19 Climb the vague break directly above the recess of the first pitch, bearing left just above a bolt (found in place by the opening party). Belay on a small stance on the right, close to the belay on 'Pink Corner'.

3. 24m 19 From the top of the last pitch, climb up for about 1,5m before moving right, then up a further 1,5m until it is possible to move left into a corner. Climb the corner to the top.

The route takes the arete on the prominent pinnacle to the right of 'Illegitimate'. The start is directly below the arete and just to the left of a set of overhangs at ground level.

1. 34m 11 Climb straight up the grey face to the arete of the pinnacle. Use layback flake on the arete to gain the overhangs. Move onto the right hand face to avoid these and once above them swing back onto the arete. Continue up the arete for 5m to a ledge.

2. 20m 19 Continue to the top of the pinnacle. Step onto and ascend the smooth face above using a peg for aid to gain a ledge. Move left off the ledge and continue to the top.

Notes: 2 pegs on the route suggest that part of and perhaps the whole route has been climbed previously. It is unknown who made the first free ascent.

Downstream from 'Pink Corner', on the same side of the kloof is a small pinnacle, the top of which is lower than the top of the kloof wall. On the left of the pinnacle is a crack which runs the whole way up the krantz, ending in a spectacular open book.

1. 18m 16 Ascend short wall to the left of the crack climbing right in a series of short steps to foot of crack. Ascend the off-width crack to the first reasonable ledge where there is a tree belay. (The face to the left is easier.)

2. 12m 10 Continue up the crack to just below the open book. There is a good chockstone.

3. 15m 18 Climb the open book (chockstone half way up).

1. 25m 17 as per Trivia

2. 30m 15 Above the first stance there are two breaks leading to the face between 'Trivia' and 'Onderstebo'. Take the left break leading onto the face. Climb up the middle of the face to the top.

Start about halfway between 'Onderstebo' and 'Retribution', just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.

1. 25m 17 Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Climb straight up for 4m and then move diagonally up right to the base of a shallow open book. Climb this to a small overhang and then step very delicately right onto a ledge and stance in the recess, about 3m below a large overhang.

3. 25m 17 Climb up to the overhang and then make an awkward, strenuous move out left onto a small sloping ledge. Continue diagonally left to the base of a shallow recess above the overhang which is climbed to the top.

The climb starts about 3m downstream from 'Before Breakfast' following a crack just right of the roots.

1. [19] 17m Climb the crack to a platform on the left. Step right and up onto bulge gaining a handrail on the headwall (piton). Rail right awkwardly and then up to stance.

Note: The piton was found in place.

Ascends the obvious couloir capped by a large overhang, on the left hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the First Aid dump.

1. [18] 38m Climb right hand side of couloir on good but extremely polished holds. Move into the back of the couloir and ascend to below the overhang immediately right of slab. Move up and left across slab to gain easier ground. Finish up easier rock above.

The climb starts at the base of the first pitch of 'Talmud', on the tree roots described in that route. Instead of climbing 'Talmud' to the left, take the obvious line up and to the right up the sloping ramp to at pinnacle at about 15m. From the pinnacle the climb follows a line up t the left of the prominent overhang in the headwall.

1. 18m 17 Climb ramp for 8m, moving right where angle steepens. Climb up red rock to pinnacle on good lay-away holds. Belay on small ledge to right of the 1.5m high pinnacle.

2. 12m 19 Start from top of pinnacle. Move left and up to small ledge. Move up and left using good undercut and incut holds. Climb up and left on good but small holds to left of overhang. Ascend on easy rock to top. Being off-balance, there is no good resting spot on this pitch.

Note: A sustained and clean route. Protection on the whole climb is good. Spectator value is good. Wear clean underpants.

On the left of the open book of 'Talmud' is a prominent vertical ridge which starts about 30m above the bed of the stream.

1. 12m 15 As for first pitch of 'Talmud'.

2. 12m 10 Start as for second pitch of 'Talmud' and before reaching the small overhang. Climb out left onto a small stance on the ridge 6m above the start of the ridge.

3. 11m 19 Ascend the ridge by means of a slightly overhanging slit, into which one cannot get one's whole body. A small platform is reached a few meters above the slit.

4. 11m 15 Continue directly upwards through a cleft on the ridge (strenuous) and then ascend easy rock to the top. The cleft can be avoided by climbing the greenish face to the right (easier).

The climb is situated 20m downstream of 'Talmud'. It starts in a crack/chimney in which are some chockstones.

1. 12m 8 Ascend the crack behind the chockstones to the roof of a large overhang. Eye belay.

2. 8m 19 Traverse left onto the face by means of a stirrup placed on a fixed piton about 1 m away from the stance and at the same level and ascend using the stirrup, or climb up strenuously without the aid of the sling. Climb a few meters of steep rock to a good stance at the base of the chimney.

3. 12m 11 Climb the chimney until the chockstones at the roof are reached.

4. 9m 16 Continue to the top of the chimney and step right onto the ledge. The chimney actually becomes a shallow recess about 5m up and this is strenuous and exposed.

Start 6m to the left of the pink-white face, right of 'Caterpillar'.

1. 12m 15 Up the crack using the roots then up the tree trunk to a ledge. Belay on the same tree.

2. 9m 19 Traverse right 3m around a corner to the bottom of a narrow chimney and ascend the chimney. The crux is at the start. The difficulty is due to the narrowness of the chimney at the bottom and the paucity of grips. The pitch ends at a narrow ledge just past a large overhang on the right. Piton belay.

3. 8m 19 Up the right-angled corner. At the overhang, move left by a layback move to a good ledge.

4. 8m 17 Up the recess through the final overhang.

Variations:

1. [17] XXm

   Instead of first pitch as described, ascend the diverging overhanging recess 5m to the left.

2. 15 From the block at the top of pitch 1, go up an angled overhanging recess (difficult) 3m high to a small cubby hole in the left hand wall of the recess. Then move diagonally on easier rock to join pitch 3 at the bottom of the 3m crack.

3. Original

4. 19 (Direct finish). On reaching the second overhang in pitch 4, climb directly through the overhang and on to the summit (15m).

Three-quarters of the way up Castle Gully there is a prominent buttress, which in fact separates Castle Gully from Rock Gully. On the buttress, on the Castle Gully side, there is a prominent wedge-shaped ridge on top of which there is a small pinnacle. The climb is situated on the downstream face of this ridge.

1. [17] 18m

   Climb the face, starting near the outer edge, for about 5m on small flat holds. Then move diagonally left into the recess at the junction of the ridge with the buttress. Ascend the recess to a tree belay.

2. 15m 18 Traverse right across the face on small grips to a narrow crack near the right hand edge. Ascend the crack, (mainly on arms) as far as the base of the pinnacle. Thence traverse to the right and up the back of the pinnacle to the top.

The climb starts 2m to the right of the tree and free-standing block mentioned in the 'Enigma Face' description.

1. 24m 19 Follow the fault line up to the small triangular overhang. Step left, move 2m and then move back right, into the break. Climb up break to overhang. Traverse right 1m below overhang until it is possible to move diagonally right (crux) up to the arete.

2. 20m 8 Climb arete to top.

Scramble about 30m up to the ledge at the base of the 'Muffin-Direct' corner. Start about 50m to the right of the start of the 'Muffin-Direct' corner below a prominent steep left facing and leaning recess with a crack of very uniform width (No 1 to 1.5 "Friends") running up its entire height.

1. [18] 25m

   Climb easily up to a tree in the crack and climb awkwardly through it. Continue up the layback crack to the top of the recess (crux towards the top).

2. 15m 8 Climb easily to the top.

This climbs a striking smooth walled open book, located about 200m from the fence. The angle of this open book is not steep but the walls are very smooth for part of their length. Scramble 30m up to a ledge at the start of the corner.

1. [18] 15m

   Climb the corner using a narrow finger crack in the corner. Stance at some blocks.

2. [19] 18m

   Move directly above the stance onto the wall above. Climb 3m up and bear slightly left. Continue up a break on the wall to the top of the original pitch.

The route takes the same initial buttress as 'Twilight Recess' to the large ledge at 25m and then the steep red groove to the overhang immediately left of the recess. It continues up the exposed slab to the top. Start 3m left of 'Twilight Recess'.

1. 15m 15 Climb a short steep crack for 3m then move up rightwards to an awkward move into a shallow niche. Move left to a ledge and up a pleasant slab to a ledge and chock belay.

2. 12m 13 Move over blocks to the groove and ascend the right wall to the large ledge. Belay at the right end.

3. 15m 19 Traverse a few meters right and make some strenuous moves over the bulge up to the base of the steep red groove (4m). Continue up the groove for 8m (sustained), avoiding the loose crack in the right wall, then move diagonally right across the shattered face onto a ledge and peg belay on the right arete.

4. 12m 17 Immediately behind is a shallow groove which is ascended with difficulty to the overhang. Traverse easily left to a large ledge.

5. 27m 17 Move up and traverse a few meters on good foot rail at the base of the slab. Climb up 3m and traverse right to a thin crack (peg runner) and continue up rightwards to the right arete. (sustained). Move a few meters up the arete and step left back onto the slab and follow the crack line to the top.

Notes:

1. A very fine route with a superb climax on the exposed top pitch.

2. Please do not climb this route between April and October (inclusive) due to nesting of black eagles.

This climb is just to right of 'Independance' nce'.

1. 30m 15 Climb the ridge using the crack between the two variations of 'Independance' to big ledge.

2. 15m 19 Ascend an open book just to the right of 'Independance' for 4m, traverse around nose to the right for about 3m into an open book breaking through the overhang. Ascend the open book using small face on right to avoid large aloe and continue 6m to ledge.

3. 25m 13 Ascend to top.

The route takes the obvious slab above the prominent square overhang mentioned in 'Beetle Brow'. Start at the base of the ridge, directly below the left hand side of the overhang (cairn).

1. [15] 30m

   Make a rising traverse leftwards over blocks to enter the recess/chimney system adjacent to a small tree. Climb recess over easy ground to good belay with tree.

2. 20m 13 Continue up the crack system in the right hand side of the recess to a tree belay below a large chockstone. Poor protection.

3. 35m 19 From the belay, traverse to the edge of the slab and continue right for 4m until it is possible to climb up to gain a “sentry box”. From the “sentry box” climb straight up the centre of the slab trending slightly right and back left to avoid the vegetation on the left. Continue to the top of the slab and a large block belay. An impressive pitch.

Located 50m up Chapel Gully at a recess on the left.

1. [19] 20m

   Climb up into the recess until a small overhang is reached. Climb the overhang, using a long stretch to small holds to gain a good ledge (crux). Continue up the crack to a "Lost Arrow" piton. (Just below this is an easy way off). Continue for about 4m to a stance.

2. 18m 11 Traverse left along a fault on good holds until a corner is reached. Climb around corner and up until rock runs out.

To the right of "Hoax Crack" there is a smooth face. In the centre of this face there is a thin crack, the start of which is marked by a short chimney with a tree at the top. The route follows the line of the crack. Start by scrambling to the foot of the chimney.

1. 35m 19 Climb the chimney for 3m to the tree. Above, the chimney narrows. Move up to a small alcove from where it is possible to reach a ledge high on the left wall. Gain the ledge with difficulty. Continue straight up the crack until the wall starts to steepen, when it is possible to move right to a tree belay.

2. 15m 8 Scramble up behind the belay to the top.

From the meet site (cave), walk leftwards to the steep buttress about 50m west of the fence. The climb starts 10m to the left of 'Pinocchio'.

1. 20m 19 Climb up the break in the middle of the face. Where the crack steepens, swing left and continue up to a ledge.

2. 10m 13 From the right hand side of the ledge, fight your way through the bush to a large ledge.

3. 20m 17 Move leftwards on the ledge to below an obvious recess crack. Climb this to a good ledge on the right with a crack and overhang above.

4. 10m 18 Climb the steep crack and overhang above.

Note: Superb route with good protection.

1. [19] XXm No route description available.

1. [13] 8m

   Climb steep face to ledge. Continue up corner crack to stance below a thin crack.

2. [19] 25m

   Climb up thin crack to sloping ledge. Traverse diagonally down right and then delicately further right to a small ledge below a steep crack. Climb this and then diagonally up right to a resting ledge just left of the main recess (18). Climb up steeply (19) past overhang in recess to ledge with tree. Continue up on right to next ledge and stance. Climb up shallow rounded recess to top.

Starts 5m left of Bog of Eternal Stench, essentially climbs the pencil crack that is seen from below.

1. [19] 30m Climb up easily to the small ledge under the dihedral. Climb the right face and crack up to ramp. From the ramp climb the center of the face (avoid the corners on either side) up to a big block and another ledge. Joins up with BOES here to climb the splitter. Climb easily to the top.

Be sure to take small gear with you, nuts and cams.

A 2m by 5m roof is situated on the true right wall of Reunion Gully. 'Cream Team' takes the obvious crack up the wall to the left of the roof.

1. 15m 19 Pull up from a hollow sounding rail to reach small holds and follow the crack to the top.

Start 4m to the right of 'Living in the Past'.

1. 20m 19 Climb straight up the face to a ledge at 6m. Balancy moves up right to a peg, then move right to a rest on a nose. Climb straight up above the nose tending slightly left to finish up the steep wall above.

Between Reunion gully and the 'Cream Team' gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.

1. 20m 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.

Takes overhanging recess between 'After the Goldrush' and 'Foad' on the Reunion Buttress. Start 3m left of 'Foad'.

1. [19] 35m Climb up blocky face onto slab below overhang. Pull though overhang into recess above, and follow to top. The grade eases to 15 after 20m.

Note:

The presence of an old rusty peg in the easier upper section suggests that a previous party traversed into this upper portion of the recess, or an abseil took place.

The route starts from the top of the tapered block forming the right hand side of Reunion cave, and climbs straight up through steep rock.

1. [19] 12m

   Climb a slight bulge to footholds beneath the small overhang. Pull through onto easier rock. Move up and step left to stance at base of a recess.

2. [15] 25m

   Follow the recess/cracks to the top. (Slightly unsound rock).

Climbs the wall to the right of 'Reunion Slab'.

1. [19] 25m Starting on the right of the wall, move up and left onto the wall and then straight on up through the roofs to the rap tree.

The route begins in the recess just to the left of 'Kalahari', "steals" about 6m of 'Right Corner Overhang' and then branches off right from 'Right Corner Overhang' to take the steep lay-back/jam crack instead of continuing up to the smooth face of 'Right Corner Overhang'.

1. 20m 18 Climb the recess up to the overhang. Step right onto the arete, up 3m to a handrail and then left to a point just above the overhang. Up to the ledge and stance at the chockstone eye-hole common with 'Right Corner Crag' (old peg).

2. 30m 19 Continue up diagonally right as for 'Right Corner Overhang' to the Y-junction made by 'Right Corner Overhang' (left arm of Y) and the lay-away/jam crack. Strenuous climbing but good nuts brings you to the overhang topping the crack and a difficult move round the corner brings you into a steep but easy crack. Continue to the top and a stance common with 'The Moke'.

Note: Often climbed as a single pitch, using the start of 'Right Corner Overhang' to avoid the belay in the river.

About one third of the way down short gully there is a projecting nose of rock with a poorly defined corner on the upstream side.

1. [19] 10m Pull through the overhang on good holds and climb to the top of the crag.

The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of 'Mike's Despair'. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses 'Mike's Despair' at its first stance.

1. 35m 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of 'Mike's Despair' and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning #3.5 friend crack to the top.

Note:

The slab is excellent thin face climbing.

The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of 'Red Corner', i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.

1. [18] 12m

   Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. 'Red Corner', and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.

2. 20m 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay.

3. 25m 7 Continue up the recess to top.

Variation:

By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (13).

Scramble up the short wall to a grassy ledge, left of 'Red Corner'. Start at the left of 2 short recesses.

1. [13] 20m

   Climb the left-hand recess until it is possible to move into the right hand recess. Follow this to a ledge and move right to where a higher traverse line can be reached (old piton in place). Traverse left and climb a bulge to a ledge.

2. 18m 19 Ascend the wall above and gain the bottomless corner crack. Climb this through a small overhang, above which elephant's ears lead to a mantelshelf out on the left. Belay on this small stance.

3. 20m 17 Scramble over the belayer and climb up to the overhang, then traverse right below this. Finish up the last few meters of RED CORNER.

Note:

The lack of good gear at the 2nd stance will most likely convince you to merge pitches 2 & 3.

Variation:

Originally a 3m traverse right was made at the height of the mantelshelf on pitch 2, to the obvious ledge (20). From there, a grade 15 move was done to join the right-traverse below the large roof.

3a. 22m 20,A2 (The Monkey Puzzle pitch) From the small belay ledge make an awkward move up over the bulge. Move up and right passing just to the left of a big block. Climb straight up to reach the jam crack at the base of the roof. (Piton protection on wall due to loose rock) Traverse left under the roof until in a position to layback up its side. Move right and gain a position on the ledge (strenuous). Use 2 aid points to move to the lip of the overhang where a pull-up enables one to stand on the horn. Scrambling leads to a stance. (May 1982 N. Cleaver and A. Wood.)

Takes a fairly direct slanting line from just left of the 'Pumping Gibbon' start to top of 'Red Corner'.

1. [19] 45m Starting 1 to 2m left of 'Pumping Gibbon', ascend the arete directly up to a stance (15m 17). Here the climb crosses 'Pumping Gibbon', continuing up just to the right of it for 5m before traversing 6m right below the smooth ramp. On the right hand edge of this slab (about 4m left of RED CORNER) climb up to reach a stance below a short open book (15m 19). Ascend this towards the overhang before traversing right along 'Pumping Gibbon' (15m 16).

1. only 1 protection piece around 15m, then stance at 30.

From the top of the first pitch of 'Sepulchre' continue up the steep crack referred to under that climb. This is the crack running up the face immediately right of the 'Sepulchre' cleft. It leans to the left all the way. The crux consists of a move over a bulge into the crack near the start. Near the top of the crack traverse right onto a grey face where the difficulty reduces, and ascend to the top. Direct aid pegs were used on first ascent.

When viewed from the big bathing pool, the grey ('Coffin') buttress is seen to be bounded on the left by a grassy and vegetation-filled chimney. To the right of this chimney, broken red rocks lead to a steep crack, about halfway up which grows a green tree. The upper parts of the crack appear to overhang. To the left of the cave (on 'Coffin' route) which lies directly above the slimy chimney is seen a steep slab which lies back at an easier angle just below the red break-away. To the left of the uppermost part of this slab is seen a ledge and above, the crag lies at an easier angle and is more broken.

The route follows the broken rocks at the bottom of the grey buttress to the base of the red crack (18m 9).

This is followed (11m) to a good ledge behind the upper branches of the green tree. Above this point the crack is forbidding, so a rope may be fixed to a piton.

An abseil of 9m leads to a point where one can traverse left into the crack below the cave (13) and ascend the cave.

Climb the outside wall of the cave for 8m to where a belay can be made high up on the left. The crux pitch now lies ahead.

Emerge from the cave and straddle upwards until it is possible to move left facing in onto the slab. This move may be made at either of two levels. It is possible to traverse with the feet at the level of the top of the sloping slab, using sparse holds on the steep face above for the hands. Alternatively, ascend right to the overhang and traverse mainly on the hands using grips under the roof until a descent can be made in a small recess about 2,5m to the left, to the sloping slab. The crossing of the slab is delicate, but easier.

A small stance can be made at the end of the slab climbing down slightly (piton), but it is safer to continue 12m upwards (18) and make a stance on a good ledge directly above the start of the slab. The move onto the slab would be very difficult to reverse.

Variation:

1. 18 The grassy and vegetation-filled chimney may be ascended from the bottom of the face, obviating the original first pitch and abseil traverse.

The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel Pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.

1. 12m 18 Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from 'Lost Trail'. One man stance.

2. 22m 15 Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached.

3. 30m 7 Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.

Start on the true right hand side of the kloof just downstream from 'Consolation'. Start from the large boulder above the waterfall into the deep pool.

1. 20m 19 Climb up the shallow recess directly above the boulder for 3m then swing left around the corner using a good handhold to the start of a shallow line leading diagonally left. Traverse along this line (crux at 4m) to where it is possible to step down to a small stance.

2. 20m 15 Move back diagonally left to the highest point on pitch 1. From here climb directly up to about 3m below the line of overhangs. Traverse right for about 6m until almost at the first stance of 'Consolation' and then ascend 2m to a small stance.

3. 15m 15 Traverse left above the overhangs to a small stance in a groove (stance 2 on 'Acapulco').

4. 35m 17 As for pitch 3 of 'Acapulco'.

The route starts immediately downstream of the "Big Deep Pool" and follows the steep wall immediately above it. The initial objective is a cave containing bushes, about 12m above the pool.

1. [18] 20m

   From the lower end of the pool, climb a gangway leading up left. Where this ends at a narrow ledge, climb the very steep wall above, moving slightly right, climb a short groove and move right into the cave.

2. 15m 18 Climb the crack at the back of the cave to a good thread in the roof. Using a peg (in place) in the right wall, make a long difficult swing to gain a small ledge on the arete. Follow a short groove up right, and step right to a small stance (immediately above the pool).

3. 37m 17 Climb straight up the steep wall above for 9m to a ledge where the angle of the wall eases. Traverse right and continue diagonally up right on good holds, until it is possible to climb up left to a large ledge. Scramble to the top. Variation:

4. 15m 19 Climb up the steep face in the right hand side of the cave moving right around the arete 3m up, to continue up the groove above.

The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of 'Genesis' on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south - Boggling climbing.

1. 25m 18 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.

Note: Excellent climbing on steep clean rock.

This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of 'Scandal', immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy recess.

1. 30m 18 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in its’ base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent "TM" style grips, at grade 15.

Takes the second obvious crack system / open book upstream of the descent gully mentioned in 'When All Else Fails, Dyno'.

1. 20m 8 Climb the easy crack / book up to the large ledge below the striking roof with a crack along its full width.

2. 10m 18 Climb the awkward bulge just upstream of the striking roof. This is difficult, exposed and poorly protected. Pull up the easier rock above to the comfortable stance on top.

Notes:

1. Protection on the crux is marginal.

2. All in all, bold climbing

3. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream.

Start 5m left of the pillar in a right leaning break. 2 bolts protect the face in mid section of the climb. Abseil off the tree and use trad gear to protect the first few meters.

Climb the recess to right of the slab.