The climb starts amongst the trees about 15m upstream of TEMPTATION CRACK (i.e. about 4m above the pool).
18m 15 Climb the wall near a tree (growing about 1m away from the face) for about 6m. Traverse left on a foot ledge for 5m. Climb a small recess to a ledge.
15m 15,A2 Traverse right and up to a sloping ledge on a nose below an overhang with a protruding right hand wall. Aid up the crack in the middle and then move right and up to a large ledge.
20m 19,A1 Climb the left hand recess to the roof, traverse left until it is possible to reach out and place a nut in the flared chimney. Using this, gain access to the chimney and climb this to the top. (The chimney portion of this pitch has also been aided - 3 pegs 17,A2).
Variation:
2a. 18m 17 Climb diagonally left and then back right to same ledge as original pitch.
1979 | First ascent:
C. Baker, H. Vogl, Dave Cheesmond, B. Gross. & Clive Ward Variously between 1978 & 1979 |
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15,15 AID:A2,19 AID:A1 | Assigned grade |
★Marc dM | |
19 | SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.
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