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Route as trad in The Hawk's Nose

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 A2 The Hawk's Nose
1 15 18m
2 15 A2 15m
3 19 A1 20m

The climb starts amongst the trees about 15m upstream of TEMPTATION CRACK (i.e. about 4m above the pool).

  1. 18m 15 Climb the wall near a tree (growing about 1m away from the face) for about 6m. Traverse left on a foot ledge for 5m. Climb a small recess to a ledge.

  2. 15m 15,A2 Traverse right and up to a sloping ledge on a nose below an overhang with a protruding right hand wall. Aid up the crack in the middle and then move right and up to a large ledge.

  3. 20m 19,A1 Climb the left hand recess to the roof, traverse left until it is possible to reach out and place a nut in the flared chimney. Using this, gain access to the chimney and climb this to the top. (The chimney portion of this pitch has also been aided - 3 pegs 17,A2).

Variation:

2a. 18m 17 Climb diagonally left and then back right to same ledge as original pitch.

FA: C. Baker, H. Vogl, Dave Cheesmond, B. Gross. & Clive Ward, 1979

Trad 53m

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