Nodes in Muizenberg Trad

Park your car on the road at 25-29 Boyes Dr Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7950 -34.097761 S, 18.465084 E. The crag will be to your right. Just follow the hike trail for around 50 meters and pay attention to a less clear path to your left. That is the path to the crag and it is easy to get confused and follow the main hiking path that does not lead to the crag.

Short route but good quality climbing. It would get more stars if it was longer. Good for a quick climb after work. It keeps the grade of the route more sustained by starting at the first pitch of Wasted which is a nice sustained 16.

Climbing diagonally left instead of going straight up reduces the grade to 19.

The top pitch is really good!

I believe we opened this new pitch. It is just a simple line just after the last pitch of Muesli. Just look at the hole in the roof that works as a nice undercling. Moving to the right reduces the grade to 16. Going to the jug on the top left after the undercling gives this pitch the 17 grade. Continue easily to the top.

A long, satisfying journey with demanding sections.

Start as for Fantasy Factory but tend slightly right though the low roof and straight to the ledge. Continue straight, passing the first roof on the left, and then directly up passing two horizontal breaks (in this section there are some ancient bolts to the right from an abandoned project). At the next ledge, continue straight up a wide recess and though a weakness at the next overlap on the left. Navigate the centre of the final face, tending right at the top to a final crank through a roof to a ledge. Abseil tat to the left.

There are glue - in rap bolts installed at the top of this route, and can be used as the rap station to service most routes at the crag - preventing the "sketchy" walk off.

One of the best routes in this sector. There are glue - in rap bolts installed at the top of this route, and can be used as the rap station to service most routes at the crag - preventing the "sketchy" walk off.

This route starts to the right of The Elusive Pimpernel and has a small silver plate with its name at the start of P2. P1 starts below the higher path that gives access to most of the routes of the sector and can be easily skipped. One can easily link P1 & 2 as well.

1. Scramble easy rock to the higher level path.

2. Pull up to a small recess passing a small silver nameplate. Climb the recess to a small ledge. Walk 2m to the left and choose one of the sides of a small roof and climb it to a bigger ledge.

3. Climb the set of small prows right above the end of the previous pitch and continue up to a small ledge. Climb the brown face to the right of a roof that folds over the face avoiding some poor rock (most of the rock is good though). Scramble up to a big ledge.

4. Walk 20m to the right to a cairn to the right of a triangular pointing block. Pull up into the obvious circular break and continue up to a huge ledge.

5. A beautiful clean dark brown wall waits for you. Scramble up diagonally right to a corner using good footholds. Climb up and once at the big roof traverse slightly left to an exposed face with good foot and hand holds. Continue straight to the top. This is a spectacular pitch for the grade. It looks harder than it actually is.

The crux pitches are five star.

1. Start on the face 5 meters left of the start of Crackle. Climb up and diagonally right to step just below a short crack. Climb that crack and up bulging rock to a rail above a big hole on your left. Balance 3 meters to the left to stand in a small ledge. Climb up to another small ledge under a small roof.

2. Climb two meters diagonally to the right until able to pull up to the face using small grips all the way to a dark brown face just beneath a small roof.

3. Climb to the right of the roof on broken rock and up to a ledge underneath a big overhang. Climb towards the overhang and traverse left until able to find an obvious break. Climb through the break and up to a ledge using sharp good holds.

4. Climb up to the crack (the left one of two) and jam it up to a bigger ledge.

Follow the track that contours the base of the mountain until able to see an impressive chockstone in an unusual place. The route starts around 6m to the right of the chockstone.

1. Climb easily towards an obvious undercling hold and move to the face on the right climbing it until able to get to a ledge.

2. Climb the crack system just above the anchor of the first pitch and move left when at the same height of a dead bush. Move up the face until able to reach the horizontal rail. Jam left on an airy traverse to belay from an airy stance around the corner on a small ledge.

3. Climb straight up the easy rock band until able to see a cairn.

4. Around 4m right of the cairn climb up for 5m and move weirdly to the left towards two twin parallel cracks that can be seen from the bottom of this pitch. Climb up the cracks to a small roof, move right to a recess to reach another face. Climb the face up to a ledge just below an easy looking brown face.

Scramble leads to the top.

A sustained route on good rock. The second and the last pitch are really good. The second pitch goes through a juggy overhang with side pulls all the way up. The last pitch follows a set of beautiful cracks.

Start just left of Neighbourhood Threat.

Pitch 1: 50m, 17 Basically the pitch goes directly up the face to what looks like a hairline crack (from the ground) several meters left of Neighbourhood Threat. Just right of this hairline crack is a flake type feature that may be where Tornado goes. After the thin section, head up and slightly left on easy ground to reach a narrow ledge. Above is a bulging brown roof, with a left tending diagonal gash on the left (which is above a block). Stance on the ledge in a position a bit down and right of the block.

Pitch 2. 30m, 19 Head up to the block and pull though into the face above using the diagonal gash. Continue up and left to narrow ledge. Pull up into the bottomless corner above (with a vegetated ledge to the right, where Life During Wartime goes). Traverse left to pull around the left side of the roof). At the next roof (with Darkness on the Edge of Town taking the left break), traverse right ~3m and then up a grey ramp to the top.

Single pitch from the ledge running across Sector D. Could be an alternate finch to Juice Kaboose.

Pitch 1: 35m, 19. Start directly a thin crack running though the lowest roof, just left of a long horizontal flake (the old route Tornado goes under the flake and out right). Climb to the roof and squirm along the top of the flake until able to pull up and left. Easily up to a steep section in dark brown rock with big holds. After this, easy ground on grey slab to the top.