Routes in Northwest Province for selected grade

This climb starts about 10m upstream of the start of SLICKENSIDE WALL, and follows a prominent crack up the middle of a downstream facing face.

1. 18m 19 Climb the crack to the overhang exiting right to easier ground and tree belay.

Note: Abseil from convenient tree.

An eliminate squeezed between THE BEERHUNTER and AMAZING GRACE.

1. 25m 19 Start up the obvious cracks 4m to the right of AMAZING GRACE and follow these until just below the level of the first small roofs on the right. Step 2m right, and pull through the overlap and up to a ledge to finish as for AMAZING GRACE.

About 70m upstream of DEXTER, on the left hand side of Fernkloof, is a steep wall of auburn rock with the bottom of the kloof forming a ramp.

1. 15m 13 In the middle of the face, and approximately 10m up, is a small tree as thick as a man's wrist. Starting on the left where the ramp meets a sloping ledge, traverse 10m right over sloping rock and climb up steeply, directly below the tree, to a stance.

2. 35m 19 Above are two cracks. Climb the one on the right for 5m. Move right and diagonally up across a steep slab to vanish around the corner. Climb the off-width crack through the roof to a stance.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 12m 13 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance, and then traverse right to the crack system. Follow this to top.

Note: A good clean enjoyable route.

About 40m upstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on true left of kloof, the kloof steps back to form a bushy and tree filled ledge about 20m above stream bed. Scramble up onto this and to its back.

1. 12m 15 Climb a recess on rough rock to a chockstone which blocks it at the top. Move out left past it onto a small ledge.

2. 18m 19 On the right hand side of the ledge, there is a spectacular upstream facing open book with a crack in its centre. After a tricky take-off move, climb the open book. Continue up on good jams and finger-locks to a small ledge 1m under the triangular roof. There is an optional step left onto face about 5m up. Fist-jam through the horizontal crack in the roof to a resting place on the arete. Move up and left to a belay ledge with a nettle tree. (Note: This pitch offers superbly protected and sustained climbing.)

3. 10m 17 From the ledge, two cracks can be seen. Climb the right hand jam crack till it is possible to step left 2m into the off-width crack in the corner. Climb this and the hidden crack on right hand face to the top.

The climb follows a beautiful line in a groove that starts about 10m from the ground. Start in the middle of the face 10m left of CENTIPEDE, 1,5m left of the large groove above.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face on thin holds to the ledge where one moves right into the large groove and good protection. Climb up the groove to the top through the tree. The crux is near the bottom of the groove.

1. only 1 protection piece around 15m, then stance at 30.

A prelude to YOU ASKED FOR IT. When combined with YOU ASKED FOR IT a good technical pitch is the result. Starts from the step across from the top of the pinnacle to the mainland. (Or, via CHERRY ON THE TOP.) Belay on top of pinnacle near the step across.

1. 7m 19 From step across follow the thin crack up the steep wall to ledge below YOU ASKED FOR IT. A loose block lurks on a ledge halfway up and must be stood on with caution.

The route starts to the left of ALRIGHT MOMMY, LET'S GO. Scramble to the smooth 5m wide face. [C – 3]

1. 18m 19 Climb the face for 3m, then traverse right onto a ridge. Ascend the ridge to under an overhang. Climb up on the right to a little ledge. Climb a corner then swing right onto a ridge. Climb to a stance 3m below the overhang.

2. 20m 17 Climb up then move delicately right onto a ridge. Climb the ridge (to the left of a recessed crack), then the face to the top.

Located 10m upstream of CHOCKSTONE FACE up middle gully left.

1. 12m 19 Ascend prominent narrowing crack that slopes left strenuously to ledge on left.

2. 25m 10 Traverse right to the chockstone crack and up it to a stance under a roof.

3. 35m 17 Break through the roof on the left using the ridge. Above the roof traverse left onto sloping grey slabs which are ascended to the top.

This climb is situated 10m upstream of 'North America Wall'.

1. 30m 19 Climb the crack to the right of the large cave overhang until forced right to easier ground, continue up to a small tree. Make a difficult traverse 2m left over lip of overhang to a small stance at base of recess (crux). Follow recess to top of buttress with difficult moves at 3m and 6m.

Note: A good route with sustained climbing from the traverse line onwards. Adequate protection on small nuts.

Start on bushy ledge where the crux pitch of Dinkum Dihedral starts. 15m right of Shadowplay is a dihedral with a large capping roof.

1. 28m Climb up open book up to roof. Traverse out under roof and go out under roof on the left. Climb to top.

About 15m upstream of TOP GUN there is an impressive roof with a triangular notch in the centre. An obvious dirty looking corner is situated about 5m to the right.

1. 25m 19 Climb up the crack on the left wall of the corner so as to avoid the dirty looking bit. Move right into the corner at about 5m. Bridge up through the roofs and then move left on good holds onto the face and climb up to a small ledge. Climb the small recess on the right side of the ledge to another narrow ledge. At this stage it is possible to step right to gain easier rock, however for more good climbing (a little runout), climb the open book above, exiting left to gain a mega ledge .

Note: Even though this climb looks pretty grotty it is actually quite good. Care should be taken in the summer months as it is infested with wasps. Descent is by abseil from the horizontal branch of the big tree.

From the top of the first pitch of 'Sepulchre' continue up the steep crack referred to under that climb. This is the crack running up the face immediately right of the 'Sepulchre' cleft. It leans to the left all the way. The crux consists of a move over a bulge into the crack near the start. Near the top of the crack traverse right onto a grey face where the difficulty reduces, and ascend to the top. Direct aid pegs were used on first ascent.

The climb starts on the upstream (right hand) side of the pinnacle just to the right of a shallow cave at ground level.

1. 20m 13 Climb the blocks onto the face above and move up diagonally left around the corner to easy ground. Continue moving up and around to some boulders on a large ledge above a small tree.

2. 20m 19 Go straight up the wall with smallish holds to beneath the prominent overhang. Pull through the overhang on very small holds (crux). Continue straight up until you can step over a crack and up to the top.

Takes the buttress immediately upstream of the prominent corner of SCARY CANARY. Start below a narrow corner on the arête, 2m right of LIP SERVICE. [B + 0]

1. 15m 19 Gain the corner from the top of the block and follow this, with hard moves at 3m, to the good hand-jams. Move slightly left, then climb in a direct line to a stance with two large blocks.

2. 22m 15 From the top of the left-hand block ascend the shattered bulging face directly above to gain a short black groove. Ascend the groove for 2m until able to pull out on to the right arête. Move 1 m right, then follow the obvious recess above to the summit.

Notes: The stance at the top of pitch 1 is shared with A LA CARTE and LIP SERVICE. The protection on pitch 2 is of dubious quality.

Start as for DEXTER.

1. 30m 19 As for DEXTER (using the lower grade 15 variation) to the shallow groove in the middle of the face. Climb up this, past the overhang on the left, to the second overhang. Step left to a crack, climb up past the overhang and continue up the recess above to stance and tree belay.

2. 10m 13 Traverse right along the ledge to a huge block on the skyline. Climb up this and continue up to a large ledge.

3. 30m 15 Climb diagonally up left to the base of a big recess. Climb the crack in the left hand wall, stepping out left at the top. Continue up to the top, either via a shallow groove above or by stepping right and pulling up spectacularly through the overhang on good holds.

This route starts 2 to 3m downstream from 'Circle Of Hands' at the deepest part of a small cave.

1. 15m 19 Ascend the overhanging corner on the left of a small cave just downstream of 'Circle Of Hands'. Continue up the short face above the corner to easier ground.

2. 30m 17 Move left to a short chimney on the left side of a steep face. After climbing up a few meters move right onto the arete and continue up to a ledge below the final steep face. Climb this final face tending slightly leftwards.

The route follows a line about 5m upstream from WHERE DO YOU THINK YOURE GOING. It follows an obvious crack 5m right of the smooth face topped by an overhang.

1. 25m 19 Proceed up the crack with chimney technique until it becomes necessary to straddle. Move up a further 3m until it is possible to reach a good jug. Make three strenuous pull-ups to where the rock becomes vegetated and then handrail right 2m and exit with ease. Scramble to the top.

Between OPUS ONE and LITTLE MOLAR is a steep overhanging buttress. The climb takes a line up the middle of the buttress.

1. 30m 19 Scramble up easy rock to the base of the first overhang. Climb the face just to the right of the first overhang. Continue up the crack system to a good ledge, move leftward to small stance below the roof with crack running through it. Move through the roof and continue up, moving slightly right, onto the top of the pinnacle.

Note: Good, clean, exposed climb.

When viewed from the big bathing pool, the grey ('Coffin') buttress is seen to be bounded on the left by a grassy and vegetation-filled chimney. To the right of this chimney, broken red rocks lead to a steep crack, about halfway up which grows a green tree. The upper parts of the crack appear to overhang. To the left of the cave (on 'Coffin' route) which lies directly above the slimy chimney is seen a steep slab which lies back at an easier angle just below the red break-away. To the left of the uppermost part of this slab is seen a ledge and above, the crag lies at an easier angle and is more broken.

The route follows the broken rocks at the bottom of the grey buttress to the base of the red crack (18m 9).

This is followed (11m) to a good ledge behind the upper branches of the green tree. Above this point the crack is forbidding, so a rope may be fixed to a piton.

An abseil of 9m leads to a point where one can traverse left into the crack below the cave (13) and ascend the cave.

Climb the outside wall of the cave for 8m to where a belay can be made high up on the left. The crux pitch now lies ahead.

Emerge from the cave and straddle upwards until it is possible to move left facing in onto the slab. This move may be made at either of two levels. It is possible to traverse with the feet at the level of the top of the sloping slab, using sparse holds on the steep face above for the hands. Alternatively, ascend right to the overhang and traverse mainly on the hands using grips under the roof until a descent can be made in a small recess about 2,5m to the left, to the sloping slab. The crossing of the slab is delicate, but easier.

A small stance can be made at the end of the slab climbing down slightly (piton), but it is safer to continue 12m upwards (18) and make a stance on a good ledge directly above the start of the slab. The move onto the slab would be very difficult to reverse.

Variation:

1. 18 The grassy and vegetation-filled chimney may be ascended from the bottom of the face, obviating the original first pitch and abseil traverse.

This route goes up the front of Isolation Pinnacle at a tree 2m left from where the Frontal route starts.

1. 40m 19 Climb the steep rock and head diagonally right to the vague recess (the Frontal route climbs the jam crack to the left). Good climbing leads up the thin crack above. Step right at the top and continue up the slab above.

Route takes the sharp, grey arête to the right of ARTHUR SCARGILL'S HAIRPIECE IS MISSING. This is 15m downstream of the dry waterfall. Start directly below the arête.

1. 22m 15 Initially climb the left-hand wall forming the arête and at the first major horizontal break, gain the arête proper. Follow the arête until able to move slightly right to gain the obvious groove above. Ascend the groove to a good platform belay on the right.

2. 22m 19 Climb the slab directly for 4m to the small roof. Utilise the crack in the roof to establish a position on the wall above and to the left of the crack (crux). Follow the wall and arête, more easily, to the top.

Note: Exciting biting on the 2nd pitch. It is possible to descend by scrambling down on the downstream-side of the route.

10m downstream from THE RIGHT STUFF, a downstream facing slab cuts through the overhangs which guard the base of the crag. This route follows the slab through the overhangs, then breaks up right below further overhangs to finish up a series of steep cracks above.

1. 14m 17 Start from a boulder and climb up the centre of the whitish slab using a flake crack. At the overhang traverse left and around the arete to a small stance and peg belay.

2. 12m 19 The slab continues through the overhang as two thin cracks. Layback up the left crack to reach a small tree. (A peg was used on the opening ascent, but since climbed free.) Make a long step right to reach an easy angled slab at the top of the right hand crack and continue to a good ledge and peg belay.

3. 18m 10 Go diagonally up right to avoid the overhang and over wide ledges to belay below a steep chimney-crack.

4. 15m 19 Follow the shallow chimney-crack which is difficult for 6m until a small ledge is gained on the left. Continue more easily to a wide ledge and block belay on the left.

5. 9m 11 Continue in the same crack line to a wide ledge below a right-angled corner.

6. 20m 15 Climb the corner crack on layback holds, step left and up to a cave with an awkward final move above.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to the base of the nose of 'Bonnie' but instead of moving to the left of the nose (as in 'Bonnie'), climb up the crack system to the right of the nose. Continue up into an open book. Climb this to the roof and pull through to a good ledge in common with the normal 'Bonnie' route. Continue as in 'Bonnie'.

This climb is situated just to the right of THE SLOT, i.e. about 4m upstream of CLEFT BUTTRESS.

1. 25m 19 Climb straight up to the crack through the overhang. Jam up this, pass the trees on the right, and climb the continuation crack to a large grassy ledge. The crux is at 7m. Finish off as for THE SLOT.

1. 10m 19 From the large ledge climb directly up the groove above the ledge and make an awkward move right onto the face. Climb the slab above as for PHALLUS.

Start on the true right hand side of the kloof just downstream from 'Consolation'. Start from the large boulder above the waterfall into the deep pool.

1. 20m 19 Climb up the shallow recess directly above the boulder for 3m then swing left around the corner using a good handhold to the start of a shallow line leading diagonally left. Traverse along this line (crux at 4m) to where it is possible to step down to a small stance.

2. 20m 15 Move back diagonally left to the highest point on pitch 1. From here climb directly up to about 3m below the line of overhangs. Traverse right for about 6m until almost at the first stance of 'Consolation' and then ascend 2m to a small stance.

3. 15m 15 Traverse left above the overhangs to a small stance in a groove (stance 2 on 'Acapulco').

4. 35m 17 As for pitch 3 of 'Acapulco'.

Climb takes the corner and crack to right of prominent undercut buttress right of HEFFALUMP TRAP, virtually opposite KANGAROOF. Scramble up 15m to a bushy ledge and tree belay.

1. 20m 19 Traverse easily to below nose. Up cracks and corner to top of buttress. Left and up crack to tree belay.

Starts from the 'shelf' directly opposite SPHINCTER SPASM (see Upper Kloof map). A large cave-like recess is the obvious feature above the shelf. To the right of the recess a fist-width crack runs up a steep wall.

1. 15m 19 Step off the block on the right. Gain the crack and finish trending slightly rightwards. Pumpy.

Start by a large tree at the base of two parallel cracks which lie midway between HIGH NOON and AMPUTATION CHIMNEY.

1. 30m 15 Climb the right hand crack for a few metres then step left to the other. Continue up this to a ledge and then climb the recess above. Above the large tree, break out to the right. Ascend diagonally right to a hidden stance.

2. 25m 13 About 18m above is a slanting overhanging crack with a short bottomless chimney below it. Climb up to the chimney, into it and then break out right. The stance is a tiny sloping ledge below and to the right of the crack.

3. 25m 19 Make an awkward step-down to the right, below a short overhanging wall. Using a layaway grip for the right and poor pinch grips for the left hand, move up to reach good holds. Getting as high as possible on these, move up and find an excellent jug up to the right. Bridge up the corner above.

The climb starts about 35m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe on the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz. Start just right of a beacon at the base of a recess sloping diagonally up leftwards ('First Choice') and below a prominent buttress split by a shallow recess in the upper half of the cliff.

1. 25m 19 Climb up on the left-hand side of the buttress for 5m. Traverse right across a steep face and then up on to the buttress. Climb diagonally right to the base of an undercut chimney. Climb this (crux) and at the top step left to a small stance in a recess below some steep rock.

2. 30m 17 Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

About 10m upstream from BORED GAMES (i.e. just left of the recess).

1. 30m 19 Climb the overhanging jam-crack to broken ground. The first 10m are really good, and steep.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to the comfortable ledge as for SYMBOL. Continue up the recess. Instead of traversing left make a difficult move up and right onto the front of the buttress. Climb the buttress to the ledge (the last part is shared with PHALLUS).

The route starts immediately downstream of the "Big Deep Pool" and follows the steep wall immediately above it. The initial objective is a cave containing bushes, about 12m above the pool.

1. [18] 20m

   From the lower end of the pool, climb a gangway leading up left. Where this ends at a narrow ledge, climb the very steep wall above, moving slightly right, climb a short groove and move right into the cave.

2. 15m 18 Climb the crack at the back of the cave to a good thread in the roof. Using a peg (in place) in the right wall, make a long difficult swing to gain a small ledge on the arete. Follow a short groove up right, and step right to a small stance (immediately above the pool).

3. 37m 17 Climb straight up the steep wall above for 9m to a ledge where the angle of the wall eases. Traverse right and continue diagonally up right on good holds, until it is possible to climb up left to a large ledge. Scramble to the top. Variation:

4. 15m 19 Climb up the steep face in the right hand side of the cave moving right around the arete 3m up, to continue up the groove above.

The climb is situated on the same face as DIVE BOMBER and about 12m downstream of it. The face on which these two climbs are located is directly opposite the normal entrance into Grootkloof. About 6m downstream of the start of HEFFALUMP TRAP, the face breaks up right to form a large recessed gully. The climb starts opposite a large boulder in the stream, which forms a minor waterfall into a pool below. By stepping diagonally left from the boulder onto the face one is now over the small pool.

1. 15m 19 Step off the boulder left and up over easy rock to a large ledge which runs left into the corner of the face (3m 15). In the right hand corner of the ledge is an A-shaped cave recess which is topped by a small overhang. Climb this recess to its apex (5m 9), break out via a straddle and move up onto the ledge above the overhang (1,5m 21). Gain a few metres in height from the ledge and traverse by a series of undercut holds left (3m 17) and then up to a ledge (3m 17).

2. 12m 13 Ascend the face directly above via a crack and move right onto a ledge on top of the open book forming the right-hand edge of the belay stance (6m 11). Traverse to the right for (3m 9) and then ascend to a stance via a broken recess in the face (3m 10). Here one can continue to the top via an indifferent scramble, or traverse off right to the base of PHOENIX.

Note: The grade 21 move can be protected by means of a sling placed level with and to the right of it on a liana creeper. This involves some scrambling. A technically pleasing climb which is well protected.

The route takes the right-hand groove/wall of the chimney which bounds CARDIAC ARREST and ascends the steep red wall which lies between CARDIAC ARREST and SWING GENTLY.

1. 20m 18 Climb the steep faint open book on the right-hand wall of the chimney which contains CARDIAC ARREST to the pronounced triangular roof above. Swing right onto the arête and ledge to clear. Shuffle rightwards up the wall (careful) to a large ledge shared with SWING GENTLY.

2. 11m 19 Ascend the off-width crack of SWING GENTLY at the back of the belay stance to top out.

Note: Exciting biting on the first pitch. Gear is thin on the faint book to start. The second pitch was initially climbed at grade 15 while the tree was still present.

The climb starts 25m downstream from AMPUTATION CHIMNEY. The climb ascends a shallow open book which continues as a crack through a bulge near the top. A large tree is found just upstream and the open book is flanked by a greyish slab to the left.

1. 15m 19 Ascend the short crack into the open book. Continue up steep section to crack. Ascend layback crack with difficulty (crux). Continue up to good ledge with tree belay.

2. 15m 13 Move leftwards for 2m then ascend crack/ chimney to good belay on top of buttress.

3. 25m 15 Continue up the face above following the right hand tending crack system. Take a good stance on top of a series of blocks.

4. 35m 16 Traverse right for 5m (1 move 16) to the attractive and easy grey face. Ascend the grey face tending right to the arete.

Notes: Pleasant climb, well protected.

An alternative start is found 8m further downstream

1. [19] 25m

   Climb up the wall to a semi-layback crack. Continue up until the wall eases off at an off-width crack. Climb this (awkward), then move diagonally left to a prominent nose (bent right). Continue up to a small stance.

2. [17] 30m

   Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

Takes the obvious corner just left of EGOWHIP.

1. 20m 19 Climb the corner/recess directly.

The route is situated on the opposite side of the kloof from CENTIPEDE. It starts opposite a large tree which is as high as the krantz itself. Just to the right of the tree is a square overhanging face.

1. 15m 13 Climb the little recess just to the right of some fig tree roots. Ascend the recess to a ledge with a good tree on it. Belay on the same tree. (A poorly protected pitch.)

2. 20m 19 Climb the face above, delicately, to just below a small overhang. Traverse left about 1m into a crack with a chockstone in it. Climb over the chockstone to a little cubbyhole. Continue rightwards to the top.

Note: Poorly protected.

Climbs the arete avoided by the first pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 20m 19 Start just above stream level in a short dark corner. Climb the corner and exit right and up to CANDLEHORSE's horizontal break. Climb up the arete on it's left hand side finally moving on to the front to finish up to a ledge.

The route takes the sinuous jamming crack coyly hiding behind a tree high up on the true left-hand side of the kloof. Start behind a large tree at the bottom of a gully opposite where the water pipe descends a grassy ramp. [Upstream of G, opposite the pipe ramp.]

1. 20m 13 Climb up left of the clean groove for 5m. Pull through bulge on good holds and step right onto arête. Move up and across left, then up to finish at right on a broad ledge.

2. 20m 19 Ascend the overhanging fist-width crack and jam to a large ledge (9m). Climb the chimney crack behind to finish above a chockstone .

3. 15m 6 Continue up over large blocks and scramble to top.

Note: There used to be a tree that could be used for the first few meters of the second pitch. The second pitch was thus opened at grade 15, but has subsequently become a lot harder.

The climb starts directly below the lower overhangs on the buttress on which PRIVATE EYES is located, and starts from the top of a boulder adjacent to a whitish face and large root.

1. 30m 15 Gain the sloping ledge 3m up and traverse diagonally up left into the recess. Climb up to tree belay. (May be undergraded.)

2. 30m 17 Traverse diagonally up right, over a small arete, to a sloping ledge and open book. This is on the main arete of the buttress. Climb the open book to a ledge.

3. 25m 19 From the belay ledge, move up and right onto the buttress' downstream face. Climb the recess above using layback and chimney moves. At the top of the recess move left onto easier rock and climb up to the top.

Notes: An old piton was found on the ledge below the open book of the second pitch. On pitch 3 the rock at the base of the recess appears to be loose, although it was solid when climbed.

The route starts about 5m downstream of the direct start of 'Fiona's Folly'. The route goes up a groove line for 25m to a large ledge and then up a black water-stained face for 15m to a large ledge. It finally finishes up the overhanging face with the cubbyhole directly above.

1. 25m 15 Climb the groove (awkward start) which lies 5m to the right of the direct start to 'Fiona's Folly'. At 10m traverse a few meters right and continue up the groove via some balancing moves to a large ledge with a tree belay.

2. 10m 10 Climb the black water-stained face above to the large ledge.

3. 20m 19,A1 From the left side of the ledge step down and traverse 5m left to the first of two obvious corners about 2m apart. Climb the corner for a few meters then use aid to overcome the overhang. Make some obvious moves to gain the cubbyhole, then aid to move right out of cubbyhole and up. Make some strenuous moves to gain the top of the face.

Start at small deep cave opposite big tree 8m below Straight Edge Corner.

1. 22m (19) Climb up in cave. Move left under overhang into crack and up to a recess where you can stand. Follow crack to top. At the top make a small detour to the right to avoid plants growing in the crack at the top.

2. 25m (14) Continue directly upwards (2m right of chimney recess with two trees) on coarse grained rock to top. (12m up is a tree).

1. 25m 19 At the start of pitch 1 climb straight up to the cubbyhole at the top of the pitch.

2. as per original

The route starts form the same point as CATHEDRAL WALL at a tree in the second recess downstream from Walking Gully. Traverse from Walking Gully along a sloping ledge for 18m then 3m up into the recess (7). (Precarious when wet, a rope is recommended).

1. 35m 19 Directly above the stance the recess overhangs. Climb the left wall for 6m to a small ledge. Move right and up for 3m to the overhang. Ascend the overhang (crux) and continue up the groove for 5m. At the top, move left to a ledge and descend diagonally left on a ramp then an awkward step away from the crack and across to a tree (crossing CATHEDRAL WALL). Continue down leftwards to another tree in a corner crack (6m).

2. 35m 17 From the tree move up the left face for 6m to a ledge then diagonally right to the base of the overhanging crack. Surmount the overhang to a sloping ledge and continue up the crack and out left then 5m to the top.

Just downstream of the curving crack taken by SWING GENTLY, lies a huge square roof. Immediately left of this roof is a groove/fault line forming the right hand boundary of a 4m wide parallel-faced chimney. The route follows this deceptively easy-looking right-hand groove. [Opposite the pipe ramp]

1. 18m 19 Climb up towards the large cave (7m) and move right to a cramped recess beneath a small overhang. Swing 1m right into the base of the groove and move up with difficulty to where the angle eases and some holds appear. Follow the groove to the top. Note: A steep, technical climb for what at first sight appears to be a piece of old tacky.

Devious route finding, sustained climbing. About 80m downstream from HIGH NOON is a buttress with several prominent noses about 20m up. The downstream face is red and is capped by several white roofs. The route starts about 15m above the stream and winds its way up the face, finishing on the right.

1. 30m 19 Start in a corner that faces the river and has a roof 2m up. Climb the left face of the corner into a chimney position. There is a recess 2m to the left but move up diagonally right to under a small triangular roof. Pull up diagonally right to reach a large open book. Traverse 4 metres left to a hanging stance.

2. 25m 19 From the hanging stance, move up diagonally right past some hand jams to easier rock. Continue to the top of this scruffy recess. Step across right and climb up easy rock to the top.

Climbs the steep wall 10-15m upstream of 'Rambo' / 'Like A Chimpanzee' / 'Madisons Mistake'.

1. 24m 19 Boulder problem to start and then straight up the steep crack above to a ledge.

Start about 3m to the right of SCHWEESICLES at the base of a tree. Same start as for SHADOW OF DOUBT.

1. 20m 19 Climb into the right hand of the two cracks and into a shallow corner higher up. Pull over two bulges and up onto a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Move up the rippled corner directly above until able to move left onto the arete about halfway up. Continue up to the top.

This climb is situated about 150 paces from the meet point where the arete meets the water. Scramble up a short wall to the grass ledge. TASK FORCE takes the right recess, ALOE ANARCHY takes the left recess, i.e. 5m to left of TASK FORCE.

1. 30m 19 Climb up the recess moving left past the first overhang to below the second overhang. Pull through the second overhang. Continue up the steep recess to the bulge. Move through this bulge and continue to the top.

Note: Sustained climbing on a direct aesthetic line.

Starts 30m upstream of the meet spot on the opposite side. Scramble up 10m to ledge with large pillar feature at base of rock.

1. 25m 19 Climb up just to the left of the pillar. Move up past a steep nose/block using a jam crack on the right to a small ledge. Technical climbing up the corner to a rail 3m below the big roof. Rail right onto the arete and up to the ledge. Climb straight up steep rock past aloes on the left to the top.

Takes the obvious corner immediately downstream of CROOKED CRACK. A tree is growing at the base of the climb in a recess.

1. 25m 19 Climb the recess to the base of the open book (corner). Ascend the open book (crux) using small wires for protection. Exit slightly right to a small stance. Climb the steep face above to a tree belay on the wide grass ledge.

The route takes the right-slanting line starting at the apex of the cave mentioned in GRAND BIZARRE. Cairn.

1. 25m 19 Climb the right hand wall of the cave moving left into the apex recess. Heave up and through to easier ground. Follow this to the cave above where a stance can be taken.

2. 40m 16 To avoid the fractured rock in the natural line above the cave take a ballsy traverse right to the arete. Move up this until crampons can be donned for the mixed climbing above to a stance on top.

Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its right hand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. 20m 19,A1 Commence in the left of the recess. Move up the small recess for 1,5m and traverse right via a hand and foot rail to another recess formed by the wall and the right hand slabbed wall (5m 17). Ascend recess partially for 3m and move out left onto the face. Continue up to a ledge 2m up (3m 17). Move across right retaining wall (2 pitons, A1). Continue a further 2m on small finger holds to the corner and around to a ledge (19). Continue up a recess and a small chimney to a broad ledge (8m 15).

2. 30m 7 Scramble to top.

Note:

Pitch 1 is sustained but well protected.

Variation:

The 19,A1 traverse may be avoided by a spectacular hand-traverse on the foot rail.

This climb takes the second crack line from the left on the same buttress as SHAKA ZULU.

1. 18m 19 Climb the crack up to a small ledge. Continue up the steep recess using the left and right crack systems. Exit leftwards at the top of the recess.

Note: Crux near top, well protected.

This climb ascends a slab on the true left of the normal descent gully. Traverse left from the top of the normal descent gully. Climb the steep slab with an overlap at its base and a grassy crack up its middle.

1. 15m 19 Climb the face up to the overlap to where the crack cuts the face. Ascend the overlap and continue up the face to finish on the same ledge as CENTURY CHIMNEY.

Notes:

1. The crack on the slab was only cleaned to facilitate protection; if the crack was cleaned more extensively the climb might become easier.

2. A short pleasant climb to finish the day off.

The route follows a line about 10m upstream of BLIND FAITH, and about 4m downstream of a prominent corner. Look for a man shaped hole in the ground.

1. 12m 19 Climb the line/cracks to where it eases about 5m up and continue to the ledge above, exiting slightly right. Note: Good climbing, will improve as it gets cleaner. A selection of small nuts is a fine idea.

The climb is located on the left hand faces opposite the descent gully at the top of the kloof. Start at the base of an open book which leads up to a red overhang. The climb skirts this overhang to the right and then breaks through a second overhang via a bottomless shallow open book.

1. [11] 15m

   Climb open book, stepping right at tree at 5m. Belay in corner on broken rock 2m below first overhang.

2. 20m 19 Climb up diagonally right to below overhangs (3m). Traverse right on good holds onto sloping arete. Swing left on good holds and move up diagonally left to break/open book in second roof. Step up on loose block and wedge trunk into shallow open book. Wedge up open book until a resting point is reached. Climb up break line until angle eases at grade 17.

This climb starts on an elevated ledge 5 to 10m upstream of 'Stoep Polish'. The climb starts in an obvious crack system with a tree growing close to the face.

1. 25m 19 Climb the layback crack for 5m. Using the left face continue up the crack system to a small resting ledge. Continue up to a small overhang. Continue past the overhang to a good ledge with a tree belay.

2. 35m 10 Continue up the crack system behind the ledge to another ledge. Climb the corner with a crack in it and smooth sloping slab on the right to a large ledge.

3. 15m 12 Climb the left-hand crack system, using a tree root, to a good ledge.

Same start as for PIGMY FACE. Whereas PIGMY FACE traverses right after about 5m up the left hand corner, this climb continues up the corner to the overhang before traversing right.

1. 25m 19,A0 Climb the recess to the overhang. Crux move (19) shortly below the overhang. Traverse right along the obvious handrail, standing in a sling or a "Friend" about halfway across, to a small tree in the right hand corner. Climb up the tricky face just to the right of the corner to a large stance.

2. 12m 10 Climb up to the large ledge from where one can scramble to the top.

This rock problem breaks through the prominent roof of 'Frame Route'.

1. 40m 8 Climb clean broken rock to obvious break in roof.

2. 10m 19 Climb awkwardly up left into flared open book below second overhang. Move up to overhang then traverse delicately right until roof ends and climb up right to ledge.

This route starts downstream and around the corner from KANGAROOF. A short scramble up a gully to a cave leads to a steep face on the left (looking inwards). Two open books are seen. A prominent one on the left side and a shallow one on the right. This route starts up the shallow right hand open book.

1. 20m 19 Climb up easy rock to the base of the open book. Continue up the open book to the bulge. Move up past the bulge (crux) to a good ledge.

2. 45m 17 Move rightwards and upwards from the ledge to the base of a crack system. Climb the crack past a rail moving leftwards near the top. Continue up easier rock past two trees moving rightwards into another open book. Climb this open book to a ledge and belay.

Notes:

1. Good clean climbing, mainly on first pitch.

2. One may scramble off at various places on the second pitch.

3. The top part of TEN O'CLOCK CRAWL's third pitch is shared with this climb.

Located at the entrance to the kloof, adjacent to the flat area that can be used to camp on. The wall on the true left being similar in appearance to that next to the meet site at Trident. The route takes the line of an obvious recess on reddish coloured rock. Marked by a cairn.

1. 25m 19 Climb the recess to its' apparent finish, then move right and up to sloping ledge. From the ledge move up left, then back right to broken ground and easier climbing, until a suitable belay point can be found.

Note: Protection very poor. Leader became nervous on top moves, and had a top rope on last 2m from the sloping ledge.

About 100m upstream of 'Lifebuoy', on the same side of the kloof, is a gully, after which you come to a small rock buttress. The route takes the face facing the kloof. Half-way up there is a ledge where a small tree is visible. Above the ledge is an open book.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face starting about 2m left of the arete. Directly up for 4m and then tend diagonally right towards the arete for 3-4m and then up left to a large ledge with a tree growing on it. Climb the open book directly above and swing up and left to a resting place. Continue up the steep crack directly above to the top.

A more aesthetic finish is to be found by climbing the wall direct after the old aid move under the roof.

The climb starts amongst the trees about 15m upstream of TEMPTATION CRACK (i.e. about 4m above the pool).

1. 18m 15 Climb the wall near a tree (growing about 1m away from the face) for about 6m. Traverse left on a foot ledge for 5m. Climb a small recess to a ledge.

2. 15m 15,A2 Traverse right and up to a sloping ledge on a nose below an overhang with a protruding right hand wall. Aid up the crack in the middle and then move right and up to a large ledge.

3. 20m 19,A1 Climb the left hand recess to the roof, traverse left until it is possible to reach out and place a nut in the flared chimney. Using this, gain access to the chimney and climb this to the top. (The chimney portion of this pitch has also been aided - 3 pegs 17,A2).

Variation:

2a. 18m 17 Climb diagonally left and then back right to same ledge as original pitch.

To the left of 'Tweedledee' is a prominent slanting corner capped by a large overhang on 'Sinister' (see the photograph). To the right of this corner are three grooves, the first two leading to a slab and the third one continues up the face. Start directly below the third groove.

1. 18m 19 Gain the base of the groove with a difficult move and up it for 2½ m (poor peg runner). Make difficult lay-away moves up rightwards to the right arete, where good holds lead up to a small stance and good nut belay below a small overhang.

2. 9m 15 Descend 1½ m and traverse left into the groove then across the left wall to a large block stance and peg belay.

3. 28m 15 Gain the shallow groove directly above the stance and from the bulge (9m) move diagonally up right towards the top of the original groove. Move as high as possible then step down across the groove and continue up the groove to a move right below a nose. Up the recess on the right to a peg belay on top of the nose. A very enjoyable pitch.

4. 30m 8 Scramble to the top.

This route should not be done from April to October as eagles nest on the large ledge. Climbs the sharp arete between BROBDIGNAGIAN and LILIPUT RIDGE. Scramble up the gully on the left and traverse out right to a small ledge bellow the arete.

1. 20m 19 Climb up the face through a small overlap until below the level of the obvious triangle shaped overhang. Move up diagonally left below the roof to the left and go up on to it. Follow the arete to the large ledge with the eagles nest.

Note: CONVERSATIONS ACROSS THE KLOOF at 18 makes a suitable second pitch for this route if two pitches are climbed.

Walk upstream of 'Lifebuoy' and as the kloof takes a turn to the left a face can be seen with roots hanging down.

1. 20m 19 Climb up past the roots to an open book on the left. Move up the open book to a small ledge. Continue up steep face to a good belay ledge.

2. 15m 12 Above is a recess with a face - climb the recess to the left.

Note: Reach dependent.

No description!

Upstream from Mhlabatini Chimney there is a pool that spans the kloof (it is now just a sandy bed and you can see the mark of the waterline on the walls on the true right - 2018). The climb starts upstream of the pool.

1. 14m (15) Above the pool is a shallow chimney through the roofs on either side. Climb from the upstream end of the pool and traverse left under the roofs. Climb the shallow chimney and up to a big ledge on the left.

2. 25m (15) Climb up face on the left of the gully to a ledge on the nose under the overhang.

3. 5m (19) Break through overhang on the right.

4. 15m (19) Climb the chimney above.

Note: Pitch 4 can be avoided by traversing out left to the bolted anchor at the top of Mhlabatini Chimney (11).

About 200m right of 'Eureka Gully' is a prominent sharp arete extending almost the full height of the crag. Immediately left is an obvious corner with a triangular overhang at 2/3 height and on its left is a black wall capped by overhangs. The route follows the corner to the triangular overhang, then traverse left and directly through the top overhang where they funnel up to the high point. (See photograph.) Scramble up the grass slope to the base of the corner (30m 8). or alternatively climb the rock spur on the left and traverse right to the base of the corner (43m 8). Peg belay.

1. 34m 19 Climb 8m up the corner past a grassy ramp then traverse 8m diagonally left to a grass ledge on the face (peg runner). Move a few metres above the ledge and traverse back right into the corner just above a small overhang. Climb up the corner until forced onto the left face below a bulge, and up to a small stance and peg belay.

2. 25m 17 Move diagonally up leftwards and up a shallow groove to a ledge on the left at 9m (peg runner). Continue up the groove and the face above as far as possible (6m) until a move right can be made into the corner crack. (Moving into the bottom of the crack is much harder.) Follow the corner crack then move leftwards and up to a large chock belay 9m below the overhang.

3. 17m 17 Climb up the corner mainly on the right wall to a chock runner under the overhang, then move down and traverse 8m left about 2m below the overhang to a ledge and peg belay.

4. 23m 15 Continue the traverse left 2m below the overhang then move up onto the arete. Traverse a further 6m and climb 3m up the wall then traverse back right to the small ledge, and peg belay just above the overhang.

5. 43m 19 Climb up leftwards to the base of the steep crack which threads the final overhangs (15m). Climb up to a shallow recess then up the left wall directly to the crack above the bulge (last 5m on small holds). From here continue easily to the top.

Note: The route is much better than general 'Skeerpoort' climbs, providing sustained climbing and a fitting climax through the final overhangs.

The climb starts at the boulder near the lower end of the wade pool shortly above the main waterfall (between NEW ERA CRACK and ROOF OF ALL EVILS).

1. 30m 17 Start up the thin crack and make an awkward move up left. Continue diagonally up left to below a small overhang. Move with difficulty up the crack to the left of the overhang to a prominent chimney which is climbed to easier, vegetated rock above. Continue up and right to a stance on a ledge below a steep face with some roots down it.

2. 10m 19 Walk to the right along the ledge past the first recess to a steep V-groove going up from its right hand end. Climb this using a combination of layback and jamming moves to a good ledge above.

3. 35m 15 Step left around the corner and climb up past a large precarious block to a point just right of a scruffy recess. Climb the right hand face to the overhang and then step right on to the arete. Continue up to the top.

Note: The name refers to the attempt to climb up and right from the second stance. After two delicate moves right holding on to micronuts (first one was left in place) followed by a hand swing on to a small ledge in the middle of the exposed face, the leader was so intimidated by the steep hold-less rock above that he abandoned the attempt without anymore ado.

Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of SIDEWALK. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.

1. 35m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.

2. 20m 19,A1 Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.

3. 25m 10 Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.

The climb starts about 3m downstream from 'Before Breakfast' following a crack just right of the roots.

1. [19] 17m Climb the crack to a platform on the left. Step right and up onto bulge gaining a handrail on the headwall (piton). Rail right awkwardly and then up to stance.

Note: The piton was found in place.

Start on the true righthand side of the kloof, about 30m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. The climb goes up a grey buttress with a small overhang 6m above the stream and capped by a large red overhang 45m up.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to a tree 2.5m above the stream and on the left hand side of the buttress and then move up diagonally right underneath the overhang. Traverse 3m right and then move up through the overhang using a small ledge as hand and foothold, and continue up for a further 3m on small holds to where a nut runner is placed in a vertical crack. Move delicately right for 2m and then up the shallow depression for 1.5m before moving diagonally back up left to a small tree on the face. Continue up for 5m to a ledge on the left hand side of the buttress. From here either climb straight up with difficulty through a small overhang to the large ledge 5m above or, (easier), traverse left around the corner and then up to the ledge.

2. 30m 10 Climb up the large red overhang, bypass it on the right and then traverse back left on to the nose above the overhang. Continue straight up to the top.

Start 20m up 'Four Man Gully' where a horizontal break cuts across the steep smooth gully wall. This is the right-hand wall of Eureka Dome.

1. 30m 19 Traverse left along the break to meet a vertical crack after 12m. Move up to the bulge and using undercuts move up right to a peg (in place), level with the bottom of the groove. Make an awkward move away from the peg to gain the groove, which is followed more easily. Move out left at the top and up right to peg belay below a steep scoop face. (This is at the horizontal fault running across the crag)

2. 12m 17 Ascend the scoop face above with strenuous moves then step right to a ledge and peg belay.

3. 15m 11 Ascend the rib above on the right to a tree belay in a corner.

4. 22m 10 Move up leftwards then across left over slabs to a tree belay.

5. 15m 8 Scramble to the top.

About 30m upstream from YARK and 30m downstream from COMMUNIST CONVERT is a tree growing up beside a face which has an overhang about 10m up.

1. 18m 19 Move up face for about 5m making liberal use of tree. Move onto ledges and then up and leftward onto ledge just below overhang. Traverse leftward with difficulty to ledge at base of a corner.

2. 15m 15 Climb strenuously up corner for about 5m and then right onto ledge. Move easily up face to large ledge and then walk right to large tree.

3. 40m 13 Move up face for 6m then to right into base of recess. Climb up past large tree to a larger tree about 12m up. Continue up recess system and then up face to top.

The route ascends the steep grooves at the right of the buttress and follows the steep impressive corner above. Start 5m left of 'Four Man Gully' below the steepest groove.

1. 25m 19 Climb the groove to where it steepens at 6m. Ascend the smooth section, then climb a hollow flake on the right wall. From the top of this, traverse awkwardly onto a very sloping ledge. Traverse a further 6m left using a good handrail to a small ledge and chockstone belays.

2. 22m 17 Traverse 6m left and climb a very steep groove on good holds stepping left immediately above a small overhang. Climb the wall through aloes to a good ledge and peg belay in the horizontal fault running across the crag.

3. 8m 10 Ascend the recess leading up to the huge overhanging corner to a small stance and peg belay on the left.

4. 14m 19 Move up the bulging crack to the first overhang and using the left wall make a difficult move round it. Pass the second overhang using a wide crack to gain the easier-angled groove above. You may see an old wooden block from the original ascent. Lots of bird poo.

5. 25m 19 Make an awkward initial move into the corner above and ascend this with difficulty to 2m below the roof. Swing across the left wall and pull round into a shallow groove which is climbed to its top. Swing back right into the main corner above the roof and up to a good ledge and peg belay. A magnificent, well sustained pitch.

6. 15m 8 Move left and scramble to the top.

Good climbing although easier options on either side of the route detract somewhat. The route begins a little downstream of the point midway between the waterfall and the huge chockstone wedged across the kloof. The first pitch goes up a prominent groove fault which leads diagonally right wards up the left side of the kloof to a large ledge 17m up, situated beneath an overhang.

1. 17m 13 Climb directly up to meet the prominent groove/fault about halfway along its length and follow it to the ledge below the overhang.

2. 25m 19 From the left side of the ledge traverse delicately leftwards round the corner and climb up to a small stance (8m 17). Climb up a few metres from stance and traverse right onto the steep face. 8m of sustained technical climbing straight up the face leads to a large ledge. (Possible to split pitch at 8m.)

3. 18m 15 Climb the corner/chimney on the arete above to a good ledge.

4. 20m 17 Climb the face to below the overhanging arete. Move around to the right side of the arete and, keeping close to the arete, climb up to a good ledge. (Alt. easier climbing lies to the right.)

5. 20m 17 Climb the yellow face above, first by using the crack on the left and then by continuing up the centre of the face (easier options may be found on the edges of the face) to finish at the top of the ridge.

Downstream from TIGATRIX there is a large arch on the true left. HANGDOG climbs the centre of the left pillar of the arch. SIDEWALK climbs the inside (upstream) corner of the right pillar, then rails right. This route takes the front of the right hand pillar, then the shallow open book and crack on the left arête of the right hand pillar. Start from the large flat-topped boulder just above the lower swimming pool. This is directly below HANGDOG. Scramble up to a grassy ledge, scramble/traverse right to a corner and scramble/climb up to a good platform below the right hand pillar. It might be a good idea to use a rope for this scramble.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face on the front of the pillar to below the big roof. Rail left to the arête and pull around the overhang to get into the base of the shallow open book. Step right to a foot ledge and climb the thin crack until able to step back left into the shallow open book. Climb to the rail and rail right to the arête (shared with SIDEWALK). Step right onto the front of the pillar and climb jugs to the top.

Notes:

1. Small cams and wires are useful.

2. The route was cleaned of loose rock before being led.

Start about halfway between 'Onderstebo' and 'Retribution', just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.

1. 25m 17 Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Climb straight up for 4m and then move diagonally up right to the base of a shallow open book. Climb this to a small overhang and then step very delicately right onto a ledge and stance in the recess, about 3m below a large overhang.

3. 25m 17 Climb up to the overhang and then make an awkward, strenuous move out left onto a small sloping ledge. Continue diagonally left to the base of a shallow recess above the overhang which is climbed to the top.

This route and Prime Sending Conditions both climb a lovely wall perched high up on the downstream junction of Boulder and Lower Tonquani (opposite and downstream from Sabre). Well worth it just for the views. The climbing is good too. Access from the top by scrambling out to the point of the peninsular between the two kloofs. Leave some fixed gear and rap 25m down to a nice ledge with soft grass. The two lines are a few meters apart and are obvious. Routes named after a display of alpine climbing prowess later in the day, when a family of four (including two small kids) calmly climbed a route out of Boulder in a fearsome thunderstorm.

Climb the corner on the right, stepping right at the roof and then back left.

This route is on the true right side of the kloof just 50m upstream of GOLDEN GATE. It takes the break up a grey face which is touched by the branches of a large tree about 18m above the level of the stream. It then continues up the centre of an orange buttress (not visible from the stream).

1. 40m 17 Climb the break to a large overhang and continue up to the right of the overhang (the large branches of the tree will be just behind you). Continue up and slightly left on easy ground to below an overhanging crack.

2. 30m 19 Climb the overhanging crack to easy ground and then climb the arete directly above on good jugs on its right edge.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [19] 28m

   Climb a loose wall for 6m and step right to the foot of the central groove. Up this using the corner crack to a tiny stance with nut and thread belays at the top.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

About 15m upstream from CLARION and 30m up from SLAB GULLY there is a very prominent deep recess up the true left hand side of the kloof. The climb takes the line up a secondary recess, just left of this, which ends up in a narrow curving chimney above. It is necessary to wade to reach the climb.

1. 27m 19 Starting from a tree about 5m above the stream, climb up steep sustained rock for about 9m and then surmount a short overhanging section above ending in an awkward resting spot below and slightly to the left of the narrow curving chimney. A difficult move leads into the base of the chimney and then continue up strenuously for 3m until a small handrail and foothold around the corner enables one to swing out left onto a ledge on the face. Climb a further 3m to a small ledge with nut runner belay.

2. 33m 15 Move diagonally up right and then straight up to a point about 2m below some overhangs. Traverse right around the corner for 5m and then climb up to a good stance.

3. 22m 18 Continue straight up over easier rock to the top.

Starts 7m upstream and opposite CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to ledge (10m) approximately 5m to the left of LONDON TOWN and FLAT DOG.

1. 12m 19 Move up recess to roof. Move left around roof (crux) and move up to second roof. Traverse right 2m across slab and pull up onto belay ledge (loose blocks).

2. 25m 17 Climb up open book above (5m) and traverse 4m to the right. Move up steep rock above and traverse to the left under the roof to a tree. Move up through the gap in the roof and up the steep wall above to the top. (A steep and exposed pitch for its grade.)

1. 25m 17 as per Trivia

2. 30m 15 Above the first stance there are two breaks leading to the face between 'Trivia' and 'Onderstebo'. Take the left break leading onto the face. Climb up the middle of the face to the top.

This route takes the arete between 'Dom's Party' and 'Callisto Crack' .

1. 35m 19 Start as for 'Callisto Crack' , but when possible make a tricky step left to a small ledge. Move up to the base of a small cubby hole below the roof. A long move right brings one to the arete, the right hand face of which is easily followed to the same stance as 'Dom's Party' .

Note:

Gear is adequate and the route may be a bit reachy for shorter climbers.

The route starts 10m left of 'Tiptoe'.

1. [15] 30m

   ???

2. 30m 15 Climb broken face moving diagonally left then right up to a large stance.

3. 10m 11 Climb broad recess to stance.

4. 20m 19 Climb steep dark recess directly above last pitch.

5. 40m 13 Climb arete above to top.

The climb starts from a boulder in the middle of the pool in lower Grootkloof immediately opposite the beginning of CATHERDRAL WALL and TRESPASSERS W.

1. 15m 17 From the boulder ascend the wall on the left side of the kloof to a ledge about 4m above the water level. Climb diagonally right up a prominent recess for about 6m to the overhang, above which the recess becomes a narrow crack on a steep face. Climb through the overhang and continue up the steep face for about 3m to a tiny stance in a triangular recess on top of a loose chockstone.

2. 18m 19,A1 Move slightly left and up about 2m to a small ledge. Traverse right 2,5m using two pitons and then up a scoop for about 6m to a sloping ledge. Traverse left about 3m then up an obvious hand jam crack for 3m. From this point move left with difficulty to a small ledge around the corner. Continue up for about 3m and then right for 4m along a sloping ledge to a comfortable stance behind small trees.

3. 37m 11 Climb face and recess behind the stance for 9m and then continue up the face to top on very pleasant rock.

Takes the crack to the left of 'Diagonal Street' .

1. 12m 19 Starting as for 'Diagonal Street' , climb the crack.

The route takes the arete on the prominent pinnacle to the right of 'Illegitimate'. The start is directly below the arete and just to the left of a set of overhangs at ground level.

1. 34m 11 Climb straight up the grey face to the arete of the pinnacle. Use layback flake on the arete to gain the overhangs. Move onto the right hand face to avoid these and once above them swing back onto the arete. Continue up the arete for 5m to a ledge.

2. 20m 19 Continue to the top of the pinnacle. Step onto and ascend the smooth face above using a peg for aid to gain a ledge. Move left off the ledge and continue to the top.

Notes: 2 pegs on the route suggest that part of and perhaps the whole route has been climbed previously. It is unknown who made the first free ascent.

This climbs the break 2-3m left of 'Skelda' . Route is about 20m high.

1. 12m 17 As for first pitch of 'Blister Major'.

2. 44m 19 Start as for second pitch of 'Blister Major' but instead of traversing right above first tree, continue straight up crack past second tree with difficult move around left of tree. About 6m from the overhang above the crack peters out and very delicate face climbing brings one up to the overhang. Belay in crack in the roof of the overhang.

3. 9m 8 Climb out right to top.

Note: The thin crack on Pitch 2 is climbed purely on hand and foot jamming.

The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of 'Gnasher' and 'Dennis the Menace' , and is directly in line with the lower part of Boulder kloof. The climb (marked by cairn) starts in a vague recess and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend right.

1. 20m 19 Straddle up the recess to the base of the slanting crack, move right then up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left to above the crack and ascend the step-like ledges to top.

Starts 5m left of Bog of Eternal Stench, essentially climbs the pencil crack that is seen from below.

1. [19] 30m Climb up easily to the small ledge under the dihedral. Climb the right face and crack up to ramp. From the ramp climb the center of the face (avoid the corners on either side) up to a big block and another ledge. Joins up with BOES here to climb the splitter. Climb easily to the top.

Be sure to take small gear with you, nuts and cams.