Routes in Western Cape

On the Western end of the boulder (right of Ryan Was Here). Sit start on the ramp and climb diagonally up right.

Climb 1 but exit R half way up the flat wall.

Sit start, set up and throw right, then climb the groove to top out.

Sit-start on jug (x), left hand to mono (x), right hand to small gaston (x), left hand to fat sloper (x), right hand to fat sloper (x), left hand to black jug (x), right hand to jug (x).

The rail close to the starting hold is off for feet!

When you traverse left onto the Arête

Originally an aid route (Anvil Chorus).

Stand-start and climb the slab on the right.

This is the furtherest route to the left of the Arrow buttress. Really good crux pitch and very nice second pitch.

1. Smear up a small ramp and up the left corner. Step up and climb weirdly a small corner to the left and up all the way to the bottom of a crack that bends to the left. Belay at the bottom of the crack.

2. Climb the crack and traverse left to a small ledge.

3. From the ledge, climb up and traverse diagonally right through a foot rail. Climb up to a roof and traverse right around the exposed corner and up to the bottom of a long beautiful recess. Climb the recess until reach a horizontal crack to your left. Traverse all the way to the left using the horizontal crack to build a stance.

The decent is obviously to your left (if you face the top of the mountain).

Open

Start as Pathfinder but go out right to the arête.

Great line. We added bolts to make it safer.

Sit-start with rail, cross to lip and mantle up.

Sit-start with left hand in small slot & right hand in crack and climb up.

Video

There are holds right of time trap, but it's a bit unclear how to link

Right of house is on fire

Sit-start low with rail, move to pinch then go big to a pocket and top-out.

Climb the corner

Sit start as for Exhaust, climb out to the right-hand arete and climb up.

Low SS with LH on small layaway and RH on good layaway, climb to TO.

Landry Lushima

Sit start below the arête with RH on crimp and LH on side pull. Bump LH to big side pull, move slightly right and then straight up. (Note: It seems that the smaller block at the foot of the boulder is in for feet, although it is not part of the boulder proper).

#SD Sit-start below the arête with large hold and climb up. Boulder J: Rasta Roof

Nice little problem to climb for those who are waiting while people climb Minki

Climb the arete.

Sit-start with both hands matched on an edge near the left arête, then do a big move diagonally right to a jug and top out.

Sit-start climb the steep crack (harder if you're short)

Sit start and climb the the prow.

Climb up the crack using the rocks behind you to gain the blank looking face. Crimpy climbing takes you to some awesome hauling on large holds to the top.

Take the first 4 pitches of 'Roulette' until the roof. Pull onto the face and traverse right on the lip of the roof until the overhang below your feet ends, and then straight up the wall above (to the left of the top pitch of 'Myrrh').

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 22m

3. [14] 15m

4. [12] 22m

5. [11] 25m

6. [13] 20m

Climb the opposite side of the boulder. Start R and move L to exit far L on the sloping face.

Firestarter with reach from the starting crack to the finishing jugs

Either scramble right to the ledge to the first bolt, or do that to clip the bolt and then descend back to the ground and climb directly up. Climb through a couple rails, hit some blank rock whilst moving slightly right and up to another rail. Correct your line back left and go through several powerful sequences ending in a big move breaking through a roof. Easier climbing after this but some of the rock is a bit weak so watch out. A final roof awaits you before the anchors.

(Eliminate Problem) Sit start at the 2 holes. Climb below prow using holds within about 20cm of a roof on both sides of prow. Climb to the end and TO.

Sit Down Start. Both hands on large shelf. Climb up right using in-cut edges to top out.

Video

BS in sharp crimp rail.

Sit start low in hueco underclings and throw left hand up to a sloper on the lip. A throw to the jug is easier.

BS on side pulls, move R to juggy nose, up ramp

Sit start at the back left of the cave. Carry on along the good holds on the roof to top out over the lip. Rad moves in the roof.

Thomas Luger

Send footage at 00:00

Start as for Low Down and Dirty, but climb straight out the cave above you.

Vlad the Impaler, stand

Sit-start below the bulge with good holds and do a long move up.

Sit-start with crack and climb up.

Pronounced P'po shar. Start with left-hand on arete. Jump for big sloper on face with right hand then match hands and climb diagonally right on desperately slopey holds to a good edge, then top out. The jug pocket way on the right is obviously off route. If you can reach the finishing edge with your foot still hooking the arete, then it's probably only 6cish - but this is only relevant to very tall customers.

Start on the small rail and climb the buldge

Video

On the overhang between Black Hawk Down and the dirt road.

Sit start with both hands in the slot jug, climb straight up and out the cave. Steep, and harder if you have fat fingers.

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Boomerang Direct. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of Boomerang begins.

Pitch 1. 10 m (17) Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m). Pitch 2. 30 m (21) Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right-hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it. Pitch 3. 25m (17) Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right-hand side of the roof at a big upside-down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge. Pitch 4. 20 m (24) This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meters higher at the base of a wide left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade. Pitch 5. 10 m (17) Climb the arched crack to the top.

Open

From the seam use the RH then LH incut edge or pocket and TO

📹 Video beta

Climb the high arete.

Sitstart on good hold for LH. Climb directly up the steep prow to TO with a tricky move on the nose of the prow

Definitely not a 7a, more like 7C-8A or so.

Sitstart with BH on good crimp, LH up to crimp, TO straight up.

Sitstart in the rail, RF in rail to start. Bottom slab and all rock below the rail is off. Climb straight up the face to TO.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start with large undercling, climb up left through the roof and finish up right. Sit- starting with the low rail probably adds a grade.

Bum start and climb up over featured rock.

Start as 5, at the flake/crimp/sidepull before lip do a big move L to a crimp on the lip, climb straight up the face to the top

SS with RH on hold in roof, LH on crimp on lip, up to a layaway and then R to sloper, then reach up to crack/undercling, TO

Closed Project