Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 15th Nov 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
6c | Espartanas | 20m, 8 | Don't Bother | |||
#4 Pretty yucky. Spits off the punters.
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6c+ | ★★ La tenada | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#3 Nice and thugsome.
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7a+ | ★★ Orgásmica | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#8 I was soooo destroyed. This was my 11th burn and completely finished me off. Plus it went dark. [2]
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7b+ | ★ La Jauría de Perros | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
#5 Really have to recruit on the crux holds. Bouldery. [2]
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7b | ★ Lo tienes claro | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
#7 Start was nails I thought. Fell twice. [3]
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6c | ★ Vidal | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
#6 Bloody tired by this stage.
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6b+ | ★★ Agoria | 10m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
#2 Tricky slab and final throw
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5b | ★ Que majete | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
#1 Good easy route
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Thu 4th Nov 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Las Ventanas | ||||||
8a | ★★★ A Cravita | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The classic, very overhung arete of Rodellar. Power endurance that seemed unlikely at first. When I ticked though, I crushed it. I hereby announce my retirement from climbing. For a while. [6]
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7a | ★★ Bis a bis | 20m, 7 | ||||
Almost fell on this warm up. And I was wearing climbing shoes! I am destroyed.
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8a | ★★★ A Cravita | 30m | ||||
Fell after the dyno again. Sooo tired.
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Thu 4th Nov 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Good txingu good | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard for the grade, continuous. Good project route.
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6c | ★ Los loros | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Bouldery start then jug haul
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7a | ★ La larva (la laarva) | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Looks 6b. It isn't. There goes my perfect onsight run of this sector. I hereby retire! [2]
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Tue 2nd Nov 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Las Ventanas | ||||||
8a | ★★★ A Cravita | 30m | ||||
4th burn. Bloody pumped, and fell off the top after the dyno. Sigh! Very close...
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8a | ★★★ A Cravita | 30m | ||||
First burn today fell just above kneebar, but figured out the top better.
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6c+ | ★ Las chicas del puente | ★ Good | ||||
Crimpy and tough Margalef-style beginning, easy middle, and tough tufa top.
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Mon 1st Nov 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Las Ventanas | ||||||
8a | ★★★ A Cravita | 30m | ||||
Surprisingly good 2nd burn. Made it to the dyno (8th bolt). Then shagged for the top bit. That's where you'll fall. The top.
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7a+ | ★ La bruja de blair | 20m | ||||
I was shattered. Super close to falling multiple times. Wrecked! I can't give a quality rating in this shagged state. I'm sure it's good.
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8a | ★★★ A Cravita | 30m | ||||
First burn. Jumped off the top. Why are the anchors all the way out there?
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7a+ | ★★ la del taco | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A stiff warmup which got me pretty well pumped.
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Thu 28th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Pince Sans Rire | ||||||
7b | ★★ Afina con Cristina | 30m | Average | |||
Biggest sandbag of all time. Multiple falls and sits. Didn't think I would actually get up it. Way harder than the 7b+'s of the sector.
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Thu 28th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Gran Boveda | ||||||
7c | ★★ Nanuk | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Difficult final moves. Ha! There goes your onsight! [2]
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7b+ | ★★★ Sopas de ajo | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nonstop tufa action. Fluffed the LAST hard move, right at the top. There goes my golden run on 7b+'s! [2]
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Tue 26th Oct 2010 - Riglos | ||||||
Visera | ||||||
7a | ★★★ La Fiesta del Bíceps (Fiesta de los biceps) | 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the world's most famous multipitches. 8 pitches of ever increasing steepness and largeness of holds. If you were only climbing 7a, you would STRUGGLE on this. It's runout and the crux pitch is delicate and quite hard. That said, it's absolutely superb journey.
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Mon 25th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Las Ventanas | ||||||
7b+ 7b | ★★ Canita brava | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alex's proj. Gear on. Big moves, big holds. My style.
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7a+ | ★★★ juan y fran se nos van | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty burly. Magalie sent today!
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Mon 25th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Delfin | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ Made in Mascun | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wanted the OS badly. Went in artic conditions (dumb/numb). Clean to 2 clips from the end. I swore a lot.
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6b+ | ★★ El Beduino | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The other side of the arch. A couple of reachy moves.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Criminal Tango | ||||||
6b | ★ Massive Attack | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Little burly down low on the tufas.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Delfin | ||||||
6c | ★★ Route #43 | 15m | ||||
Repeat in sneakers / Sam 5th shot total
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Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Aquest any si | ||||||
7b | ★★ Caprichos de lujuria | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gear on, quick burn.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Pince Sans Rire | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Gracias Fina | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Such a proud, soaring line. You just have to climb it. The crux was really hard for me. [6]
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Thu 21st Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Nuit des Temps | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Fanthkes o Panthere | 42m | ★ Good | |||
Warm up? WTF? I dub thee NAILS DE TEMPS! 1 fall at first anchor, 1 higher. FML!
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Wed 20th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Delfin | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ A toro pasau | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Underclingy and powerful
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6c | ★★ Route #43 | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sam did well - good headspace
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7c+ | ★★★ El Delfin | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
THE classic photogenic arch. I love Doug's description: "Cricket bats glued to the roof". Didn't think I would do this route. I suck at roof climbing. [4]
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Wed 20th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
7a+ | ★ Conejo caliente | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fingers started uncurling. Not cool, fingers.
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Mon 18th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Laperne | ||||||
7b+ | ★ Bilboquet | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Grr. Top is un-onsightable. By me.
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7b | ★★ Eau de Roche | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard. Kneebar to the rescue.
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7a+ | ★★ La fin justifiee les moyens | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tufa action to blindingly desperate top mantle
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Barrio de los Gitanos | ||||||
7a | ★★ Lola | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Waaaay overhyped. Not particularly good at all IMO!
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Surgencia | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Sayonara baby | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long enduro classic with a halfway rest. [2]
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7a+ | ★★★ Coco loco | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wet. Cold. Hardcore. I was shitting myself.
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Wed 29th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Delfin | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Tu aqui no has venido a escalar | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sam crushed it with authority
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Wed 29th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Las Ventanas | ||||||
7a | ★★ Bis a bis | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Later repeated in sneakers
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Wed 29th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
7b | ★★ Estampida (esttampida ) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite hard start from memory.
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6c+ | ★★★ ¿Donde está Wally? | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty hard for 6c+
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6c | Zwo | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Mon 27th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Criminal Tango | ||||||
6c | ★ Aranmanoth | 20m | Average | |||
Old school hard. Prepare thyself!
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6b+ | ★★★ Roxy la palmera | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sneakers. Best tufa climbing at this grade here. No giveaway though!
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Mon 27th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Furia Latina | ||||||
6b | ★ La Maldición (La maldicion) | 10m | ★ Good | |||
sneakers
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Sun 26th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Delfin | ||||||
7a | ★★ La Gatera | Average | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Route #39 | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7c+ | ★★★ El Delfin | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★ Route #38 | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 24th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Ven abente | 14m, 5 | ||||
7b | ★★ El pupas | 18m, 8 | ||||
6c | Futuras promesas | 13m, 5 | ||||
Thu 23rd Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Pince Sans Rire | ||||||
6c | ★ dimies y directes | 17m | Average | |||
for photo rope
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6a+ 6b | ★★★ Ciao Bambino | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
in sneakers
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Los Hermanos Peruanos | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
in sneakers, many times.
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6b | ★★ La Alimaña de Ocana (La Alimana de Ocana) | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
in sneakers
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Tue 21st Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Furia Latina | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Noir tango | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Quite shit I remember
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Fri 17th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Callejon | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Pasaba por aquí (Pasaba por aqui) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
In the mini canyon. Pretty stout! Upper section is best slab at Rodellar
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Thu 16th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Gran Boveda | ||||||
7c | ★★★ L'any que ve tambe | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
For a warm up!!!
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7c+ | ★★★ Vielles Glories | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
After the 7c. Holy shite!!!
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Wed 15th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Billy el rápido (billy el rapido) | 21m, 8 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Toma castañazo (toma castanozo) | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best route on the wall
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6b+ | ★ Bonny | 14m, 7 | ||||
6b | ★ Clyde | 14m, 7 | ||||
Wed 15th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Pince Sans Rire | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Pince Sans Rire | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Endless tufa pulling. Runout, fearful.
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Tue 14th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Cafe Solo | ||||||
7b | ★ Cafe con leche | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The only redeeming ascent of the day
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7b | ★★ Monica | ★ Good | ||||
There's easier 7b's around let me tell you!
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Tue 14th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Bisagra | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Recuerdos de mi abuelo | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Nails tufa
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6c | ★ Benita la Bendiga | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Seriously almost fell all over it
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7a | ★ Tu eres la primera | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Unsurprising, I fell off. A slab 7a.
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Sun 12th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
La Fuente | ||||||
6a | ★ Nique la folle (Nique ta Fiole) | 14m | ||||
Good warmup
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5b 5 | ★★ Route #11 | 14m | ||||
5b 5 | ★★ Ta Finde con Tónica (Ta Fiole con tonica) | 15m | ||||
Good warmup
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5b 5 | ★★ Qué pasa pues, Zagal? (Que pasa pue, Zagal) | 15m, 6 | ||||
6a | ★ Ardilla | 20m | ||||
5b 5 | Los Zorrillos | 15m, 8 | ||||
5b 5 | ★ Los Jumbis | 15m, 5 | ||||
6a+ | ★ El Ratón (El Raton) | 20m | ||||
6b+ | ★ Route #5 | 17m | ||||
Hugging sidepulls route
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6a+ | ★ Route #4 | 17m | ||||
Intricate
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6b | ★ Kompakt | 17m | ||||
Sling 3rd bolt for newbies
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Sun 12th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Bikini | ||||||
6a | ★ Bikini | 20m | ★ Good | |||
in sneakers
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7a | ★★ Acracia | 22m | Average | |||
Bikini sucks. Don't climb here.
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Sat 11th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Las Ventanas | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ The Kings of Metal p1 | |||||
Sessioning with Urko [3]
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Sat 11th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
7b | ★ El pisaciclico | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★ Felipe el Hermoso | 13m, 4 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Más tortura (mas tortura) | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
You have to recruit on those slopers baby!
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6a+ | ★ Bugs Bunny | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 9th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Nuit des Temps | ||||||
6b | ★★ Savane Esquise | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nails!
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Thu 9th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Bikini | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Marlen extralujo | 20m | Average | |||
Thu 9th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
Aquest any si | ||||||
7a | ★★ Spasiva (Spasiba) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
First section only. 7c+ extn
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7b+ | ★★★ El sici | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pulpit continuousness
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Wed 8th Sep 2010 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
6b | ★ Knuff | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
"Intriguing"
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