Ascents in Andalusia having Beta

Heartbreaker at the top, next time!

Hay un paso a mitad de la vía muy duro a no ser que lo saltes por la izquierda o midas más de 1,60.

loose sand

Broke a hold while resting

Took me three tries to do the initial boulder. Wood be less overgrown if it would see more traffic.

Echamos en falta el primer anclaje algo más cercano

No es complicada pero requiere ojo tranquilo y entrenado, y buen control corporal

Book calls it "Pan pajarito" and shares part of the route with "Hermes" and "Pan pajarito"

Book rate it as V

Book calls it "Ya lo sé" and its a V

Harder than the other 6a+es here, really alpine feeling (pumpy, at times overhanging layback cracks).

Short reachy boulder sequence, prolly easier if tall

Finally it went down today in a bit rainy conditions. Such a good route.

Luckily it is still possible after one of the tufas broke before the top crux. I think it is not harder due to the good kneebars at that place.

Alejes varios

Beautiful repeat! Loved it once again! =)

Repeat

Sadly one of the tufas broke before the top crux despite being dry on the outside 😥 I hope it's still possible!

Algunos pies son regulares porque resbala la chorrera.

Easily 6c. Middle pocket hold is very very polished, Poema roca vibe. Frustrating because this route looks so tempting from the ground, but it doesn't climb like it reads at all, balance middle weirdness, doesn't climb like an overhang. It looks great and tempting but it is a let down. Others in group agreed. Clipping a QD into bolt 3 is quite awkward at least for my height and hard to do as an onsight unless you're tall or QDs are in or maybe you know your belayer and feel great and not worried. Easier if that QD is in, can clip from better hold. Route is hard to read above that and has slippery holds where there should be jugs. Feels run out and exposed to the next bolt and anchor. I've definitely been on soft 6cs (that people downgrade to 6b+) that feel the same or easier than this. Maybe was 6b when it wasn't polished or when it's a bit colder and the grip is nice, rather than mid-March. Don't recommend this route.

I normally project 7s and found this route ridiculous. Bolts are airy for the grade. Holds at bolt 3 (4 if you're skipping the lowest one) didn't feel great, then when you get over the bulge there's a missing bolt and a run out on sharp holds. Sharp is fine but, my feet had slipped several times and the last thing you want on sensitive skin is to slip and fall holding onto sharp holds in a run-out. Thought I could always get 6a-6b but this day and crag are proving otherwise. Maybe a bad head day, maybe the conditions in mid-March sun, maybe a belayer I hadn't met before but - still, this grade is not my limit and it messed with my head. Don't recommend.

5c in Rockfax guidebook. Probably fair for it, I suspect people climbing these grades close to their limit would find it hard. Difficult for me to judge. But holds were where they needed to be and despite being my anti-style, it went just fine. Was a bad head day and nothing else went. Others in group had gone first so I had beta, thus only flashed.

worth a climb if you're in the area, soon to be a classic, a bit loose (little rocks and some things) but not polished, nice tufa and good holds.

either a hard 6c+ or soft 7a but, it was a fight for me on the send go today (crux feels more like it's in the middle than the top honestly, unless you're tall). Swedes: compare it to a shade harder version of Ursprunget, pumpier, but barely harder than Hugo, barely (so closer to 6c+). yesterday I put QDs in and had a send go with a new belayer I didn't trust, then it rained. so I came back today with yet another new belayer, warmed up on it with cold fingers, then sent it next go as rain was coming down.

tried to walk the road, encountered 2 big mean dogs, took a long scramble goat path up to the ridge next to Encantadas, went over that, scared off a group of wild boars, ended up on a super muddy bike/walking path... definitely go the normal way past Frontales in the woods if you're walking! better with car... but the epic journey to send such a short route will not be forgotten

Put QDs in, had to extend 2, set up a top rope for others in the group. Rain was coming. My belayer was new to me and I felt weird trying to commit to this move, so when I tried on lead again I backed down from the middle out of fear and took. Then it rained hard so no final go, but I felt like I would send it the next try!

Is right between 6c+ and 7a to me. I think a taller person might find it easier in the middle and not feel that way. I cut my feet there and make a near deadpoint move.

The Very polished holds makes it a challenging climb. Still good fun. Bolts are pretty close to each other.

Mas suave que la de su izquierda, para mi esta si es 6a o 6a+ y la de su izq. 6b por lo menos. Del mismo estilo, fina y tecnica

Via muy wapa pero muy duro para 6a+. Por lo menos 6b y duro. Son vias plaqueras de escalar fino y tecnico

3rd go. There were a few ways to do the crux, making it even harder to decide on a beta

Was fun to have a play. Sequences felt fine on their own, but trying to link them on the 5th and 6th hard tie-ins of the day was not so easy!

Another cracker, a perfect line of holds

Fun one!

I was so close to flashing this!! Just didn't try hard enough on the crux move! 7B feeling goooood

Too cold hands in the warmup... Next time!

Nice technical climbing. Sadly one of the holds in the crux were wet, but luckily it was still doable. Hard on the skin.

Thought it was hard for 7a!

Hard to read first pitch, veeerrry thin second

Epic route, and first of the grade in a day 😁

Really fun! But crazily slick, especially footers for the traverse

Good for first time leading

Weird top anchor, felt a little sketchy. The bolts was not loose, but the piece you clip in to was moving. It was also horisontally placed, so not much room inside the bolts