Routes in Islas Baleares

Long climb with an intermediate anchor where the real difficulties start.

1. Climb the slab to the right tufa. Get on it and left to the two "balls" with some cruxy moves and keep going to the first chain. Jafedi YouTube

2. ?

Empieza usando algunos agujeros grandes hasta llegar al crux, hacia la izquierda en pequeñas regletas. La sección final vuelve a ser más fácil.

Up using some big holes to a cruxy move left on small crimps into the again easier final section.

Rockfax 2020 4a.

Easy line central through the obvious ramp. Quite polished due to countless ascents.

Excellent steep and airy climing on jugs, jugs, jugs. Good for spectacular photos!

Excellent line through the lower huge holes and then a bit right through the upper smooth wall. The upper wall seems impossible for the grade at a first glance, but there is a way through. Recommended! Polished...

Climb the flake and crack left of the dihedral. At its end move left and continue to the anchor of the prior route.

Short overhanging panorama route, perfect for dramatic photo sessions.

The groove followed by some easy slab

Continuous wall climb with partly slippery foot holds.

Good line. Technical climbing to a thin passage to pass the tufa blob high up. Low in the grade.

Right-hand side of the corner then up the slabs and bulge above.

Starts left of some vegetation in the wall and ends directly under a bush. Steep crimpy and technical wall climbing with a hard finish.

(39.780525, 2.898503) Pass the yellow triangle on its right side.

La ruta más popular en la peña. The most popular route on the crag.

Hay quien la considera 6a+.

The leftmost line on the central wall before some small bushes. Long homogenous wall climbing on crimps and holes.

Traverse with a clear crux nearing the end. You start on the right platform as seen from the photos, climb the first part that starts with an undercling. Follow the line all the way to where you can reach the stairs of the next platform. That's where you top out.

The route itself does not go above three to four meters above sea level, which makes it very fit for people new to deep water soloing.

Water exit is at the initial platform. You'll have to climb a small rope, but that's easy with shoes on. Exiting the water at the other platform requires some climbing, and is not adviced with waves.

Start through a gap between some bushes and follow the left line of bolts. Sustained wall climbing on crimps and holes with increasing difficulty towards the end, but still low in the grade.

Good beginners line with uniform difficulties. There is 1 intermediate lower-off. In the first few meters there are 2 bolt lines in 1m distance, maybe somebody made a "new" route and somebody removed the upper bolt plates. Right so, it's basically the same climbing line.

Puede haber perdido un agarre y ahora puede ser más difícil que 6b.

May have lost a hold and may well be harder than 6b now.

La costilla gris poco profunda.

The shallow grey rib.

Línea izquierda en la rampa central. Fácil en buenas presas con una sección corta y difícil. Camino en losa con un voladizo para buenas capturas.

Left line on the central ramp. Easy going on good holds with a short difficult section. Slab  path with one overhang for good catches.

One of the best at Xurasco. This route is easy at the beginning but has a hard crux in the middle. After you lost all your energy you need some strenght for the end.

Rockfax 2020 5a.

1. Easy slab to big ledge (10 bolts)

2. First another slab that leads to a short steep wall on the left - some hard crimpy moves (crux!) to get over it and reach the 2nd stance next to the tree (14 bolts)

3. Some easy climbing over some big blocks to a pleasant vertical and fingery wall with some harder moves, easier after. 17 quickdraws should be enough to send the route.

1. 9 bolts

2. ? bolts

Super cool 3D climbing with an exit through a hole in the ceiling.

Runout after last bolt.

Arriba y engañoso alrededor del copo hacia un terreno más fácil. Los metros finales son duros pero se pueden evitar por el lado izquierdo.

Up and tricky around the flake into easier ground. The final metres are hard but can be avoided on the left side.

Línea derecha en la rampa central. Crux es una sección corta y empinada en el medio.

Right line on the central ramp. Crux is a short steep section in the middle.

This is also a good descent route.

Far to the right.

6a written on the wall, 5c in Rockfax guide, 8a.nu consensus5c/6a.

Second line of FH from left.

1. Caín - 6b+ (7 bolts)

2. Caín Extensión - 7a+ (?? bolts)

Muro a la derecha del barranco hasta una fina fisura / diedro en la parte superior. Parece más fácil de lo que es. Interesante escalada de principio a fin. Inicie una grieta corta y luego lleve la pared de dedos hasta debajo de una esquina. Termine la esquina a través de algunos atascos y puentes.

Wall right of the gully to a thin crack / dihedral on top. Looks easier than it is. Interesting climbing from start to finish. Start up a short crack and then take the fingery wall to below a corner. Finish up the corner via some jamming and bridging.

The left-hand side of the slab is hard at the bottom.

Starts at the blunt arete on the right of the slab, then continues up the slab.

Start using the tree to gain some easy tufas. Follow them until a huge cave and stay concentrated for a tricky pull out of it.

Línea central a través del barranco.

Central line through the gully.

Rockfax 2020 5b.

Una bestia bombeada. Siga la línea de grieta obvia hacia la izquierda para llegar a un gran copo. Después de una pequeña sección empinada, el terreno fácil domina hasta el ancla.

A pumpy beast. Follow the obvious crack line to the left to reach a big flake. After a short steep section easy ground is dominating until the anchor.

El nombre Tierno doy una es el que aparece en la Guía de Miquel Riera

Rockfax 2020 6a.

escalada divertida. Fácil a través del lado izquierdo de la cueva de forma extraña, seguido de un emocionante tirón fuera de su techo superior para llegar a un terreno fácil que conduce al ancla. Suelte el primer perno para reducir el arrastre de la cuerda.

A fun climb. Easy through the left side of the bizarre shaped cave, followed by a thrilling pull out of its top roof to reach easy ground leading to the anchor. Unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag.

Excellent route following the orange coloured groove right of the huge cave. Technical moves onto the right ledge and up to a good rest before entering the left leaning slab / overhang combination with continuously increasing difficulty.

Rockfax 2020 6b+.

Central route; spectacular second pitch, somewhat slick in places

Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof.

Bouldery start at the left edge of the small cave, followed by a cool overhang and a hard final pull. Take care not to fall when a truck is passing by!!!

Follow the obvious layback crack along the dihedral.

Exposed climbing on monster jugs to a thin exit right of the upper overhang. Climbing it directly is 6c.

Famous line, following the massive overhanging tufas in the middle of the wall. Requires lots of stamina despite several good rests and features some hard crux moves at its very end. Partly quite polished. Probably the most famous sport route of Mallorca and according to Rockfax one of the best tufa climbs in the world!

Rockfax 2020 5c.