Ascents in Castellón having Beta

Via larguisima ( apro 35m ). Muy buena y divertida.

High 1. bolt

Muy buena. No la hagáis justo antes de comer porque hay un paso obligado por un agujero lleno de heces de pájaro. 😆

Un par de pasitos duros

La vía tiene un segundo largo que llega hasta arriba, primero va hacia la izquierda y luego hace una travesía a la derecha en el segundo largo. Hay que ir con cuidado ya que en el segundo largo hay un aleje de unos 7m desde la última chapa hasta la reunión. Juntando estos dos largos le doy a la vía 7a/7a+. Muy guapa la vía, en el segundo largo hay que tirar de coco por los alejes, pero muy guapa.

me he saltado el pasito del desplome

increíbles vistas

con un poco de miedo por caerme en diedro

Paredes y agarres chorreando agua, imposible de agarrar.

Agarres clave a punto de romperse, de hecho me llevé una pequeña cazoleta por delante y volé.

The line of the bolts is quite strange, it creates lot of friction in the rope.

Via con alejes y travesía

Fell a few times before the anchor

Vía a bloque, con todo comprimido en la parte de arriba.

Más dura que su vecina Agorafobia.

Para mí, 5a, por un un paso que hay antes de la antepenúltima chapa.

En mi humilde opinión, hay un paso relativamente difícil y peligroso, por la distancia entre chapas y porque en caso de fallar la caída es aparatosa, no limpia. No me ha permitido terminarla. No esperable en un supuesto 4c.

Sorpresita picante antes de la reu.

Continuous climb with a harder move in the first half.

Hemos encadenado ambos largos seguidos con una cuerda de 70 metros y al bajar sobraban 2-3 metros. Tiene un paso curioso a la salida y pies relativamente escasos llegando al final. Quizás para algunas personas sea un 5+.

Tiene unos cuantos puntos con pasos más finos pero hay buenos descansos por en medio que compensan, aun así sus 32 metros acaban siendo machacones.

Descalzo #barefoot

Pasi final a la chapa complicado, te quedas atrapado, respirar y pensar bien como vas a subir.

Recomendable.

The first few bolts feel a bit like an approach before the actual route starts. There's a bit of a ledge which makes the next bolt feel uncomfortably high. You then get into the corner which is the worthwhile section of the climb. Not too easy not too hard. I'd still give it a 6a+

Same approach as the two neighboring routes. At the first overhang I unfortunately discovered a bat in the big undercling hold. Used the quickdraw then to get past that section. But it should actually also be possible to work up your feet and just skip the undercling section entirely. This whole section is a bit strenuous, but there's a good rest once you are through.

On the next overhang you have an uncomfortable clip and then really need to pull hard to get to the good pockets high up. Eventually I did it by right hand on the side pull. Left foot into the good pocket on the right side. Pull hard and left hand goes high for the pocket. The rest are super good holds.

Happy I was doing this in top rope. Nasty section when the orange rock starts. Had no idea how to go climb this. So I went left around it through the neighboring route. Then before the last overhang there is again such a gnarly move. Had the belayer help me with the rope. Tough one!

We spoke later with the route setter, Txenxo, who told us some holds had broken and that it's not a 6c anymore. He's thinking about potentially changing the course of the route and probably also changing the grade.

Fell again on the crux move because I had my feet no sorted out properly. Should remember the sequence well for next time:

Somehow get through the opposing edges and stand up on them. Left hand on the v-shaped hold above your head, right hand on the bad sloper further right.

Important, take a good look at the feed before standing up and decide which ones to pick. Left foot into a shallow but good pocket - difficult to see from above. Right foot onto a tiny bit just above the draw. Then it should be possible to reach the good hold with the left hand more or less comfortably.

De las más bonitas de Jerica.

Second time climbing this route. Crux worked out quite well this time. Right foot up on sth. small. And then a bit of struggle to get the left foot high into the good hole. And then you can already reach the good holds. Goes fairly easy this way.

Actually forgot that I had done this one before - (because I had logged the wrong climb. Something is messed up in the topos.) Got through the lower section well and also did the top section more or less easily.

Had a really good first go on this one. The first few meters are not that hard and you get to the top of the flake. Here the real action starts. I managed to get through the crux right away. Beta:

Right foot into the hole next to the bolt. Move the left foot up. Reach over to the good side pull with the right hand. Step through with left foot and pull hard on the right hand. The finger pocket with the right hand only fits the two smallest fingers.

Made it until before the small overhang without any rests. But then I was a bit too pumped to get it done. Actually you only have to get your feet high enough, then you reach the good holds comfortably. Bit of a tricky section again just before the top.

Had a second go on it. But was already a bit too tired and couldn't do the crux anymore. Though with the knowledge of the overhang I did the rest - and also the bit above - without resting any further. Should be able to do this one when I'm completely fresh.

es 6c+ duro

Si vas todo recto tiene un paso chulo

Se ven pocos pies, creo que con pies de gato malos mejor ni intentarlo

Se ven pocos pies, creo que con pies de gato malos mejor ni intentarlo

Chula, pero me ha parecido fácil para 6a+

Le daría 6b ya que la graduación es antigua y tiene bastantes pasos pulidos. Aún así una vía que hay que escalar por su ambiente y la mítica travesía.