Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||||||
7c+ 7c+/8a | Dardara | 200m, 9 | Tiro Pedabejo | Aug 2019 | |||||
7c+ 7c+/8a | Dardara | 200m, 9 | Tiro Pedabejo | Aug 2019 | |||||
5- |
★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez
- with
Octavian Rotariu
1
lead by
Jalon Avens
2
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
3
lead by
Jalon Avens
4
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
5
lead by
Jalon Avens
| 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | Wed 31st Aug 2016 | |||||
% Not sure who which pitch but guessing alternate leads with me starting
|
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5- |
★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez
1
5-
15m
2
4
40m
3
3
30m
4
4+
40m
5
3+
40m
| 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★ Good | Mon 22nd Jul 2019 | ||||
Many people. There was one party before us and many after.
Easy route. Starting to get polished.
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5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Sep 2019 | ||||
Thought we should suss out the main descent route, nice enough climbing on runnels. Got descended on sure enough, maybe an earlier start would have helped. Hot. Alt, combined 1&2 and 3&4
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5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez - with Alpine Goat | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Jul 2020 | ||||
Seconded pitches 1 through 4. Lead pitch 5.
|
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5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez - with Ladreda | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Jun 2020 | ||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | ||||
5- |
★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez
1
5-
15m
2
4
40m
3
4
30m
4
4+
40m
5
3+
40m
| 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Jul 2022 | ||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez - with rOckpSy | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez - with Diego | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
5 |
★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez
- with
Diego
1
5
15m
2
4
40m
3
4
30m
4
4+
40m
5
3+
40m
| 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
En el segundo largo me fui por otra vía y me colgué en un clavo faltándome 10 m , para encandenarla me bajé por motivos de Salud pero la disfruté igualmente 😜
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5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2023 | ||||
Buena vía, no muy técnica y muy buenos anclajes y rapeles
|
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5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | Thu 26th Aug 2021 | |||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez - with jose y sergio | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | Thu 28th Sep 2023 | |||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez - with alvaro palomo | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | ||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | Tue 31st Oct 2023 | |||||
5- | ★★★ Directa Hermanos Martinez | 170m, 8 | Naranjo de Bulnes | Tue 27th Jun 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Sur Directa | 680m | Torre Santa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | ||||
Clásica de clasicas
|
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5+ | ★★★ Sur Directa | 680m | Torre Santa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | ||||
Clásica de clasicas
|
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5- Easy |
★★★ Victor
- with
Tomi y Roldi
1
5-
40
2
4+
25
3
4
30
4
4+
40
5
3+
40
6
2
| 180m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | ||||
5+ |
★★★ Cepeda
- with
Octavian Rotariu, Anne Stijne
1
4+
70
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
4
5
40
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
7
4
45
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
9
5+
30
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
| 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Aug 2016 | ||||
First mountain multi-pitch and only my 3rd on lead and 2nd trad lead - the first being a practice one only 2 days before! I alternated leads with Octavian with him starting and Anne just seconding. At least on the topo we followed it was a 9 pitch route but Octavian joined P1 & P2 together and I joined P5 & P6 together to make 7 pitches as we climbed it. Memorable events along the way included Octavian not quite making the 2nd belay on his conjoined P1/P2 pitch so Anne & I had to simul climb with him for about 5 metres even after climbing up to quite a high belay stance in anticipation of him running out of rope! I also then dropped my approach sandal when putting my rock shoes on so had to down climb to the bottom and retrieve it before tying in and starting the P1 proper much to Octavian's chagrin. On P4 Octavian had trouble finding the anchor so had to do a bit of down climbing and untying and retying to regain the route after we got a tip from another team behind us. Then on my lead of P5 I didn't traverse right enough at the beginning so had to do some tricky down climbing and can't recall for sure but may have fallen or rested after making the traverse finally. I continued my lead onto P6 but also ran out of rope and had to down climb, unclip a runner to release some rope and reclimb to the P6 belay! Then P7 & P8 fortunately went much smoother. The final pitch P9 was tough even for Octavian on lead. I recall that I might have briefly rested on the rope but just to pull out the the cams before the crux of course! I did happen to knock off my sunglasses in the attempt though and them falling to the ground never to be seen again. We all made it through the tunnel and into the amphitheatre on the other side well before dark but decided not to attempt the short summit scramble as we guessed we would then be too late to make dinner back at the Refugio. We quickly abseiled and after everybody reachd the bottom I volunteered to run back to reserve some seats & dinner for everybody at the Refugio but the guardians were quite mean and didn't allow it. Luckily Anne & Octavian made it back in time for the main course so the day ended well
|
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AD | ★★ Canal Estrecha - with Octavian Rotariu, Anne Stijne | Torre Santa | Fri 2nd Sep 2016 | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Elixir para calvos - with Octavian Rotariu, Anne Stijne | 320m | Peña de Fresnidiello | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | |||||
Only first 4 pitches as weather turned bad and we were enveloped in fog!
|
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5+ | ★★★ Cepeda - with Beatriz carceller | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 4th Oct 2017 | ||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda - with Beatriz carceller | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 4th Oct 2017 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Rabada-Navarro | 750m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Sep 2019 | ||||
First 3 pitches only to see how the cruxes would go ( good). Rain thwarted the whole 21 pitch attempt. We may try again.
|
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6b | ★★ Sagitario | 200m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Sep 2019 | ||||
This probably deserves classic, but we were there to do rabado Navarro in full, but thwarted by a slow party. So felt more like a consolation. And we carted a heavy pack up in case we could do a link up then decided against it.
|
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8a+ | Pilar del Cantabrico | 500m | Naranjo de Bulnes | 2002 | |||||
8c | Orbayu | 510m | Naranjo de Bulnes | 2009 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Pidal-Cainejo | 450m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | ||||
8c | FA Rayu - with Eneko Pou, Kico Cerdá | 600m | Torre Santa | Sep 2020 | |||||
FFA.
|
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5+ | ★★★ Cepeda - with Luis Gonzalez | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Aug 1982 | ||||
5+ |
Sur clásica - Variante Regil
- with
Lino Espinosa
1
3
2
4
7
4
8
3
| 350m | Fuente Dé | Sun 19th Jun 2022 | |||||
Si no me equivoco: primer y último largo trepada sin cuerda. Segundo largo liderado por Josema y tercero por Lino. Yo abrí el cuarto y creo recordar que tiré dos largos juntos porque me pareció muy corto (creo que luego rozaba la cuerda jaja). Sexto por Lino y séptimo por Josema (estos dos últimos no los recuerdo bien tampoco)
|
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5+ | Maraya - with Lino Espinosa | 200m | Fuente Dé | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Palacio de invierno (Palacio de invierno Concatenación Diedro Rubio) | 120m | Fuente Dé | Sun 22nd Aug 2021 | |||||
5+ |
Diedro Rubio
1
5+
2
4+
| Fuente Dé | Sun 22nd Aug 2021 | ||||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda - with Yael | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Aug 2022 | ||||
Largo llamado "ROMPE TOBILLOS" muy lavado, se puede acerar de dos cordinos que hay puestos.
|
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5+ | ★★★ Cepeda - with Bro y Asier | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Fri 31st Aug 2018 | |||||
8c | Rayu - with Matilda Söderlund, Brette Harrington | 600m | Torre Santa | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | |||||
8c | Rayu - with Brette Harrington, Sasha DiGiulian | 600m | Torre Santa | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Tue 23rd Aug 2022 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2022 | ||||
5 ~5+ | ★★★ Pidal-Cainejo | 450m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Sep 2022 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Elixir para calvos | 320m | Peña de Fresnidiello | ★ Good | Sat 14th Feb 2015 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Pidal-Cainejo | 450m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Wed 3rd Jul 2013 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Pidal-Cainejo | 450m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Aug 2019 | ||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Sat 30th Jul 2022 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Jun 2023 | ||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Cepeda | 300m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Aug 2023 | ||||
7a |
Cainejo
1
3+
2
5
3
6a+
4
5
5
5+
6
7a
7
4+
8
3+
Combined this pitch with pitch 9.
9
5+
We added the last 4+ pitch to the east summit while it started raining. | 260m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Pidal-Cainejo | 450m | Naranjo de Bulnes | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Sep 2023 | ||||
6a+ |
★★★ Palacio de invierno
- with
Pablo Alonso
1
5
2
6a
lead by
Pablo Alonso
3
6a
lead by
Pablo Alonso
4
6a+
lead by
Pablo Alonso
| 120m | Fuente Dé | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Elixir para calvos | 320m | Peña de Fresnidiello | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 18th Jan 2023 | ||||
7c+ | Murciana 78 | 550m | Naranjo de Bulnes | Mon 6th Jun 2022 | |||||
Sport | |||||||||
7a+ | Ecopoint ★★ Leyenda negra extensión | 38m, 20 | Teverga | Fri 8th Sep 2023 | |||||
7a+ | Ecopoint ★★ Leyenda negra extensión — 2 attempts | 38m, 20 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
5 Hard | El poli de Gijón P2 | 37m, 19 | Panondres | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||||
Llegué hasta arriba con una cuerda de 80m sin problema. En total serán unos 37m todos los largos.
El arranque es como de 6a pero el resto sí es V
|
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5 | El poli de Gijón - with Clara Amoedo | 37m, 19 | Panondres | Tue 30th Jan 2024 | |||||
6c+ 7b+ | ★★★ Rollito tevergano | 37m, 18 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Sep 2019 | ||||
Genial, de moverse y pensar.
|
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6c+ 7b+ | ★★★ Rollito tevergano | 37m, 18 | Teverga | Tue 18th Jul 2017 | |||||
très dansant
|
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6c+ 7b+ | ★★★ Rollito tevergano | 37m, 18 | Teverga | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Sep 2020 | ||||
perfect vertical climb. Delicate.
|
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6c+ |
★★★ Rollito tevergano P1
- with
Mar
1
6c+
22m
| 22m, 18 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | ||||
7b+ |
Ecopoint
★★★ Rollito tevergano
— 2 attempts
1
6c+
22m
2
7b+
15m
| 37m, 18 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | ||||
7b+ | Ecopoint ★★★ Rollito tevergano | 37m, 18 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★★ No hace falta ir a Cuenca - with Fredric Ham | 52m, 16 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Aug 2015 | ||||
I took Fred's recommendation and top roped this route......great suggestion Fred.
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6b+ | ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | ||||
7b+ 7b+/c | Dragón de Comorr (Dragon de comorr) | 31m, 15 | Teverga | Thu 17th Aug 2017 | |||||
muy a truco, un autre coup
|
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7b | ★★★ Una maravilla - with Mati | 31m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | ||||
Super nice endurance route. Very technical climbing with no real physical crux, apart from being pumped out of my mind before the final delicate boulder to the chains. The climbing often weaves quite far right of the bolts, making route finding initially difficult.
This took me 7 tries over 4 days. I almost sent it the burn before, but it was so hot that I sweated off the final holds of the boulder to the anchor. Luckily a breeze came along to help the send next go. Lacking endurance, what helped me get to the chains was to climb with a watch, to pace myself to climb faster and measure my rests. Bravo Matilde who sent it in 5 goes for her first 7b 👏. |
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7b | ★★★ Una maravilla - with chou chou halperin | 31m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Apparently the best route at the crag! My first real project and first 7b Took me 5-6 times including getting the draws up with Chouchou the first day.
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6b+ | ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Jun 2021 | ||||
Chickend out at the second crux. Will get it next time
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Deu cangrenau - with Raul Sauco | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Jul 2022 | ||||
Viote!! Pero le doy 6c.
|
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6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
Uniendo los dos largos, sensación de 6C
|
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6b+ Hard | ★★★ Deu cangrenau - with matthias | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
Bouldery start with suprising moves and a big mantle to make your way to the intermediate anchor. Second pitch not to be underestimated. Got down just in time before it started raining.
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6b+ Hard | ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
Second go, still not easy. A lot of routefinding along the way and some moves that require you to commit.
|
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6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
7b | Ecopoint ★★★ Una maravilla | 31m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | ||||
I was lucky to read everything correctly and was super happy to stick the technical sections in the crack. It's important to have some energy left for the last part to the chains. 💪💪
|
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6b+ | Ecopoint ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ Deu cangrenau | 45m, 15 | Teverga | Mon 19th Feb 2024 | |||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ Quinto a vista y quien te ve - with Fredric Ham | 20m, 14 | Teverga | ★ Good | Tue 4th Aug 2015 | ||||
My first route in Teverga and so so good.
|
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6a+ 6b | ★★ Leyenda negra - with Fredric Ham | 30m, 14 | Teverga | ★ Good | Wed 5th Aug 2015 | ||||
Total misread.....oh well!
|
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6a+ 6a | ★★ Quinto a vista y quien te ve | 20m, 14 | Teverga | ★ Good | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | ||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Leyenda negra - with Polona | 30m, 14 | Teverga | Sun 6th Sep 2015 | |||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ Quinto a vista y quien te ve | 20m, 14 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Jun 2021 | ||||
6b ~6b | ★★ Leyenda negra | 30m, 14 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2023 | ||||
7b | Ecopoint ★★ La bermega | 30m, 14 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | ||||
Nice boulder with a committing move at ⅔ of the route.
|
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6a | ★★ Quinto a vista y quien te ve | 20m, 14 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | ||||
6b+ 6b+/c | ★★★ El Patán | 35m, 13 | Teverga | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 13th Oct 2017 | ||||
Cojonuda
|
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7a+ | ★★ El blues del autobús (El blues del autobus) | 21m, 13 | Teverga | Fri 19th Jul 2019 | |||||
7a | ★★ Cinco estrellas | 27m, 13 | Teverga | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | |||||
Had a quick go before bailing and deciding a rest day was needed! Seems pretty good but with some caveats: it's already a little polished, and the crux between bolts 3-4 is not properly bolted because of how far left the sequence takes you.
|
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7a | ★★ Cinco estrellas | 27m, 13 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | ||||
Better with tighter shoes! It's pretty good, but the easier second half is more fun than the bottom I reckon.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Río Bravo | 30m, 13 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | ||||
Super pumpy climbing without any really hard moves. Everyone cheats and goes out right a few bolts before the top to avoid the blank boulder crux, bumping this down to a low 7b+ we reckon. This does make clipping the bolt at the start of the power endurance headwall nearly impossible (maybe tape a sling to the wall?), but given all the chalk this is definitely the way the route actually gets done.
The rock in the first half is not the best, but it's okay, and at least the worst bits seem to be held on by a thick layer of glue. Thanks to Leszek for the toprope 😁. I did all the moves today. Second go was already much better than the first, with only a few rests, despite being totally exhausted from the outset. |
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6b+ 6b+/c | ★★★ El Patán (El Patan) - with Polona | 35m, 13 | Teverga | Wed 9th Sep 2015 | |||||
6b+/c | ★★★ El Patán - with Elena Galletti | 35m, 13 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th May 2022 | ||||
7a | ★★ Cinco estrellas - with Raul Sauco | 27m, 13 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Jul 2022 | ||||
Muy buena. Roca suelta por la mitad de la via.
|
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6b+ 6b+/c | ★★★ El Patán - with Raul Sauco | 35m, 13 | Teverga | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Jul 2022 | ||||
Muy buena.
|
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7a | ★★ Cinco estrellas | 27m, 13 | Teverga | Tue 13th Sep 2022 | |||||
6b+/c | ★★★ El Patán - with Matthias | 35m, 13 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th May 2023 | ||||
7a | ★★ Cinco estrellas | 27m, 13 | Teverga | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jul 2023 |