Ascents in Siurana

2nd repetition after Will Bosi (FA) and Alex Megos. It took me 4 days of work. Such a cool route, definitely my style, a very bouldery crimpy route! Since it‘s so sharp the skin management was almost the biggest challenge for me. It went down too quick to agree on 9b+ so I think hard 9b could be more appropriate 🤔 Uncut phone footage following soon! Video:

FFA.

Just 2 hours after King Capella, such a sick day! One day I had to give King Capella a break because of my skin, so I briefly checked this one out. Because I loved the style so much I could do it very fast on the same day as King Capella then. Thanks to Alex Megos for sharing his great beta with me. Really didn’t feel like a 9b to me, so gotta go with 9a+ on this one.. Video:

2nd go

3rd ascent after Will and Alex. 3rd try and right after flashing Jungle Speed, such a sick day! Really my style and with Alex‘s new beta I‘d grade this one 9a+ as well especially since I graded La Capella 9a+ and I think they are similarly hard. But who knows, this is my suggestion 😉

Description of the ascent by Adam Ondra on 8a.nu: "Checked the moves once in the end of the day, next day (after trying King Capellla first) rechecked the crux move again and sent on my second go. Done with Wil's method, for the traverse completely different method and probably easier. Low-end 9a+ with my height and method, for shorter climbers can be tiny bit harder, but not 9b."

1st onsight of a 9a ever

could be 8c+

morpho, punchy!

2nd ascent after Will. I now fulfilled the ultimate task to do all the hard routes in this sector in my 9 climbing day of the trip, so psyched 😄 This one was hard for me, had to find new beta since I couldn’t do the move Will did. If you like the style it‘s probably similarly hard as Jungle Speed though 🤔 Check my video of King Capella and la Capella here:

Vaya apretón!! 4 chapas de lo más duro con presas no tan malas pero raras con pies muy pequeños. No sabría graduar esto, me parece muy raro y me costo bastantes intentos. 9a supongo aunque no descartaría la opinión de Shubert tampoco.

8c+/9a, no creo que llegue al 9a. Brutal linea de unos 35m con unos movimientos espectaculares! Que guay haberla hecho tan rápido, eso sí, primer pegue sin esparadrapo

Soft

Très bloc en bas. Un bidoigt main droite à serrer très fort.

Sehr schön, eher 8c+/9a

12 Versuche