Ascents in Alpen as sport by Ivo

I initially didn't like the first boulder sequence, but started to appreciate it after a few tries. The upper endurance section always felt nice, so overall I'd rate it as another great line. Took me five proper attempts to take down.

Another stellar line in Paschga. No single hard move (for the grade) all the way to the top, but its a hell of an endurance challenge. Feels really far off at first, but once you get into the flow and become efficient in your movements (plus skip a few draws) it becomes possible.

Third 8a for me this month and in total, so super happy with my current progress. It was a fun project and good training mostly with Andreas, which made sending it together with him on the same day even better ;-)

Felt amazing to clip the chain on it today! It has been my longest journey/project so far. I had many gos on it last year, but I wasn’t ready at that time. This year it worked on my 4th try. Such an awesome route! I‘ll definitely go for the 8a+ link into Mozzarella for another fight on it sometime in the future.

Woohoo 🙌 super happy about the send today. Felt solid all the way to the chain! Really enjoyed the climbing and process on this one, from the first few go’s that felt really hard to eventually sending it quicker than I thought I would (probably 8 go's in total) On to the next project!

My first time on this one. Another really cool line without any hard crux moves. It is just a very long consistent endurance monster. Should provide really good endurance training, but I am not sure if I want go for it next.

Old tick, climbed it either onsight or #2go (I can’t remember) last year when it was brand new and had no name yet.

Old tick

Luckily got the starting boulder right straight away (somebody left some chalk and helpful ticks though). I tried different solutions later on, none of which worked. Has a tough final clip

Climbed it sometime this May #2go

2 tries - cool climb, I like it a lot. Starting boulder worked quite quickly, and the rest is ok, but I lack the endurance and efficient enough beta to link everything for now. Should be good training tough.

Way too humid for a fun climbing day but at least it worked in the end.

One try at the end of the day. Special climb, needs a bit more traffic, otherwise fun and the name is very fitting 😉

#2go - also a good one with a cruxy roof section. Getting out of the roof, might be harder if you are tall (like me) but still doable at around the suggested grade.

#2go - Voralpsee style climbing but less steep. Also much better/more fun than it appears from looking at the first 5 meters. Hard to onsight.

I guess my finger passed the test and I am ready to climb again ;-)

Great line, but super tough nut for me! Apparently easier with less height and wingspan (190cm). The undercling crux feels in no way like 7c to me. Will be a while before I can climb this line.

Narrowly too weak to clean off this old hang dog on the already 7th overall go of the day...

Good short climb on artificial pockets, with a single move crux (natural). Doesn’t sound promising but climbs fun! ;-)

Better than indicated in the SAC guidebook

Great line, with an interesting hard 4 move boulder crux and some reachy endurance climbing in the upper section where it is not over till the chain. Route was climbable but part of the crux sequence was a bit wet which made it slightly harder. I got close on my second go but missed a bit of sending luck

Very nice pumpy climbing! Happy about the OS - relatively easy to read due to a lack of alternative holds.

Did the first 5 moves twice

I messed up the crux at the final hold, hard to see the rescue jug. Awesome line, but only one go this time, got dark.

Nice balancy climbing, not that hard if you know exactly what to do and execute efficiently. No real pump this time. 😊

Made it a bit harder than it needs to be, missed a good undercling, but worked nonetheless. Many sidepulls & underclings on bad feet. Not easy for the grade in my opinion.

Tough nut for 6b...

Surprisingly, already a bit polished, but still worth it

Repeat, still great 👍

Send it on my 5th go overall - first of the day today. I am ticking it as 7c+ due to my considerable wingspan 😉 However I can see how this can be 8a or even harder for shorter climbers. I liked the movements and pump buildup quite a bit - I pumped out two times after the crux... 😜

Two gos so far. I kind a like it, it is a nice addition to the first pitch and it feels quite doable. It is probably not 8a for me with my height and ape index (feels quite a bit easier than Der Boulderer), but I have to red point it first to be more certain, maybe the crux move is a lot harder when already reasonably pumped.

#10 - 2021 goal reached ;-)

Gave it a shot after Onkel Bens. Fun variation going into the finish of Dr. Tabu after the Pompej crux. Just didn’t make it all the way through the Dr. Tabu finish this time.

Close send today almost lost it again prior to the dyno but somehow held on this time. Considered soft for some, but felt at least harder/took me longer than the 7c‘s I have done this year. However also felt easier than a few 7c+ I have tried, so a soft 7c+ might be right... Anyways happy about the send.

Link up of previously ticked routes for me, so RP

Nice line, I especially enjoyed the mantle in the end ;-)! Messed up the crux though it was supposed to be an OS day...

Another nice line. I read the lower crux wrong, unfortunately. Easy middle followed by a nice technical upper section.

Hang dog removal from last year. Very nice line

Turns out to be a tough nut for me. The slopers always feel soo bad and I just can’t make the dyno happen. Tweaked the beta a bit in the end so hopefully works that way...

After two close attempts that ended rather stupidly right at the end of the top out section (past the real crux) last session. Today as a warm up in the sun. They say it is always important to properly warm up, I guess thats what they mean 😜...

One try - not exactly my kind of strength but the boulder problem works. Will give it some tries if my Vättis season lasts longer

I tried Anna's new route, which is a surprisingly nice and varied line in this otherwise unbolted section of the wall. I got very close on the second and final go, but messed up the beta in the end. The route was partly wet and it felt very solid for the grade in humid conditions but 7b could be the right grade in decent conditions. I will definitely climb the Big Wave again.

hang dog removal