Showing all 16 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Engstlental Elsigen Mittlerer Teil | ||||||||
6c+ | Sisyphus | 30m | Crap | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
Holy crap, this isnt merely the worst climb ive ever done in Europe, its a contender for one of the worst routes ive EVER done. Not even in the Blueys would this mank get bolted. Every single hold can be removed, shown to your belayer and re-inserted... well, except for the holds that are created entirely from glue with a complete absense of rock. I actuallly started up the 7a next to it until I got a look at its chosspile crux, at which point I traversed into this to try a different chosspile.
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7b+ 7b+/c | ★★★ Silla - with MB, Banana_hana | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | |||||
Couldn't find any doable solution for the crux section within a reasonable period of time. Feels more like 7c to me, but maybe I just couln't find the good holds as some people on 8a.nu call it a "soft 7b+" ^^. Guidebook suggests 7b+/7c.
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6c | ★ Taxi | 30m | ★ Good | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
Down came the rain and washed rhe climbers out... again. I was happy to bail fom tgis, as it was becoming a mini-epic. I climbed too high and into the lower crux of the 7c+, which I then reversed with much effort to get back on route. Eventually I put together the deserately balancy crux of the 6c, and then the rain returned...
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6b+ |
★★ Quasi
- with
MB, Banana_hana
1
6a+
2
6b+
| ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | |||||
Final part of L2 was quite a fight because I made a route reading mistake, wasn't able to downclimb and had to fix it somehow - which felt quite hard ^^.
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7a+ | ★★★ Turbo - with MB, Banana_hana | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | |||||
Just went as far as I got in my onsight try and came down when I fell off - to give MB a go.
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Engstlental Elsigen Linker Teil | ||||||||
7a | ★★ Virus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
Haha, just like a classic Blue Mountains sports climb back home. Boulder problem off the ground with no feet to a small positive crimp rail, then some powerful moves leading to a pumper finish on jugs. Somewhat unlike a limestone route, but its good to find some familiarity over here. Fun, but not classic.
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7c+ | ★★ Panther im Käfig - with Alain | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | |||||
Surprisingly did all the moves but linking them feels super hard. Long Boulder on quite bad holds in the middle part, super fun one
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7b | ★★★ Korona | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
Great climbing on stunning blue limestone, but the just wasnt going to go in the rain with the crux sloper wet. Onsighted to the top crux before the anchor, and slipped off the crucial sloper. Tried to put together a bouldery snatchy sequence avoiding thw sloper using tiny crimp edgea, but it just wasnt happening. A shame, really.
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7b | ★★★ Korona — 2 attempts - with Alain | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | ||||
Tough Boulder on crimps and a super super polished side pull slopy hold (that polished that I thought it was wet on my first go 😂)
Impossible to climb it in the sun
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6b | ★★★ Mobile | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
The guide calls this classic at the grade, and it bloody well is. Hard for the grade, but long and with an amazing amount of variety and complexity.
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6b | ★★★ Mobile - with Andreas Aachen | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Jun 2021 | ||||
Leider immernoch zu steil für das kaputte Ringband... Eintrag zum Erinnern dieser schönen Route
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6b | ★★★ Mobile - with Chrischu | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Super nice homogeneous warm up, little confusing to read at some points, but had a perfect beta spreading machine at the other end of the rope
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6c+ | ★★ Benediktus L2 | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
Impossibly balancy and precarious. Absolutely nails off the belay, then slowly getting somewhat easier. Took me quite a few goes to get the opening sequence, then onsight to the top. Made harder by the arrival of rain.
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6c | ★★ Benediktus L1 | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | ||||
Boulder problem fridge-hugging from the 1st to the 3rd bolt, then much easier climbing. I got the opening sequence 3rd shot. Short and sweet limestone bouldering.
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7a+ | ★★★ Torpedo - with Chrischu | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
I want to tick it as a flash so badly Fell at the very very last move (I decided to jump, because I didnt find another solution, stick it (!) couldnt believe it myself and let go :-D ) Long one with two technical slabby cruxes without footholds Full commitment thx to perfect belay.
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7a |
★★★ Gelbe Kante
- with
Sabrina
1
7a
22m
2
7a
16m
| 38m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Jun 2021 | ||||
Climbed as one massive pitch. Some very funky moves on superb rock. Highly recommended.
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Showing all 16 ascents.