Ascents in Lütschinentäler having Beta

This is what happens when you climb with a way too strong partner (and all other routes are wet...) who forces you to just try... Surprisingly I got to the crux without any big troubles... but then the whipping started 8b is definitely not my grade, but until the crux (probably 7c until there) it was so much fun! Technical climbing on sharp little crimps. Amazing Rock!

(w qd) 1st Go of the day + 3 tries last week

2 tries

Tricky

SL1+SL2=30m

SL1+SL2=30m

Kind of fun

Surprisingly awkward crux on thin holds might be easier with trousers and a knee bar

Delicate lower section followed by powerful couple of moves to turn the lip

#2go

Amazing route. Gimmelwald is so sick.

2nd go

#2go

Second Ascent. Gimmelwald is some kind of dream crag.

3rd go

go

#2go

#2go

#2go

8b/+

Just trying to stay fit out here in the rain. Amazing cliff!

Soft

Quite the warm up. Much pumpier than I was expecting.

2nd Go

#2go

#2go

4th go

The bolting in the first 2 pitches is challenging but the route is fantastic

After waiting for a while, we decided to try something... I had to aid through the 6c pitch (of course) but got the 2nd pitch clean, despite cold hands.

A special day swinging leads with Hilde on this 5 pitch sport climb overlooking the Eiger 15 years since last climbing together.

The line is not as depicted here and has been reworked. The new line is shown in my new Plaisir West Guide. The last two rope lengths have some exciting new additions. You can now ascend directly up after pitch 3. These new pitches are labeled as 6b and 6a. The route is definitely deserving of a 3-star rating.

Climbed both 6a pitches clean, had to rest on the 6b+ (2nd pitch) but made all the moves without aid, also one rest on the 5c+ pitch. Should have got it clean -- but just too tired. Got the two 6a pitches clean, though, so listing as 2nd clean at 6a.

A fantastic day. A cheerful partner. The rock is perfect. The position is amazing with views out to the Eiger. Cold beer at the farm house to end the day.

Nach der zweiten Seillänge den offensichtlichen Stand nehmen. Bei uns im Topo sah es leider so aus als ob man weit nach links queren müsste zu seinem Stand, war eine scheiß Idee....

Very first Multipitch for me and since the bolting was QUITE run-outy I relaxed and did every pitch as second Overhanging amazing line, the experience couldnt have been better... in the second pitch you have to pass a massive (in my eyes) roof without foot holds and just two crimps above the roof... wasnt able to do this move but the rest of the route was stunning Last 6b pitch is not bolted anymore... so no top out...

With a lot of rests…

Beta warning... the crux is the overhang. Find a good undercling about 75cm from the lip of the overhang. Right hand is here while your left goes in a sharp pocket to the left over the lip. Bump or dyno your right hand to a bucket jug to the right over the lip higher than your left hand. Rest of the climb is straight forward.

Nicht klar welche route dies ist. Laut aktuellem SAC TOPO sollte dies die linke route im kleinen Dach sein.

Beta alert... there is a good hold just over the lip of the overhang followed by some pockets. Right hand in pockets then crossover dyno left hand to a jug. This is the crux, rest of the climb is easy.

First route through the overhang. 5c+ in plaisir interlaken

Grade is a 5b in the local guide. Feels more like a 5b than a 4c. Nice climb just watch out for the spiders in the vertical cracks if you go up first.

5a in plaisir interlaken

5a in plaisir interlaken

Start of the climb is good, middle is easy and finish is a bit technical/spicy. Overall a good climb

Super nice climb with a bit of spice at the end for novice climbers. Should give it a go if new to leading.

Would be a classic climb if I could use most intended holds, there were 20+ spiders on this line. Climb should be renamed Spider-Man...

6a in Plaisir Interlaken

Ich glaube ich war auf der falschen Route. evt. zu weit links geklettert. Diese Route war sehr speckig.