Routes as sport in Alpen

Keep to the left

On the left-side slab, start up the bolt route on the right. Climb 6 pitches of lovely slab 5a-5b. Then, head up steeper headwall for 4 more pitches, followed by an easy finish pitch.

1. 5a. Slab up angling rightwards.

2. 5a. Slab up, right, then up.

3. 5a. Slab up then right.

4. 5b. More slab, up and rightwards.

5. 5b. Still more slab, up and a bit rightwards.

6. 5b. Finally the last slab, to a lovely ledge.

7. 5a+. Up steeper rock on huge holds.

8. 5a. Walk up and right over easy ground, then up good climbing on slanted face.

9. 6a. (5b 2 p.a.). Up steep featured rock with quartz crystals.

10. 5b. Up over small roof, then up good rock.

11. 4b. Walk upwards to short easy finishing wall and step right to anchors.

Descent: walk off -- up and back on obvious trail, then down steep gully. Does not go to bottom of climb, but back to the road. Or rappel -- all anchors suitable, but careful of stuck rope on top pitches.

Same start as 'Barbar', but instead of going left, keep going straight up

5c obl. ==[en]== stoppers (size 5-9) are useful may be used, but you can go without ==[de]== Keile in den Grössen 5-9 sind nützlich, aber nicht zwingend erforderlich

Same start as 'Barbar', but instead going left, go slightly to the right at the beginning

Two routes left of "Parapic"

Absicherung: Plaisir super, Inox Bohrhaken (keine Friends und Keile nötig) Material: 2x50m Halbseil, 12 Express Zustieg: Vom Nätschen der Strasse entlang bis Pt. 2029 (Antenne). Über den Tüfelstalboden runter bis zum Ausstieg Klettersteig Diavolo (Kabel). Von dort aus 50m nach rechts zur Abseilstelle mit rotem Punkt. Anschliessend 3x40m abseilen ins grosse Couloir. Dem Bach entlang hoch zum Fixseil und zum Einstieg. Abstieg: Vom Top (Wandbuch) den roten Markierungen und Fixseilen nach, zuerst aufsteigen, zurück zum Nätschen. Abseilen über die Route möglich, jedoch endet diese im Couloir (Sackgasse, Absturzgefahr)

Blaue Bolts

Figuren-Bolts

Alpine Kletterei, im Plaisirstil abgesichert, 12 Express benötigt. Alpine Route, well protected, 12 quickdraws.

Grüne Bolts

links von Parapic

Amazing hand crack on the rght-hand slab. Bolds might be a bit spaced, so if you want to play with a cam or two...

5-8 h climb, 1-2 h descend

First belay shared with Kurz aber Deftig.

blaue Haken

Nice layback easy climbing turns to some 6A moves and ends with an overhang on good holds but quite physical.

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