Showing all 67 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bockmattli Trepsenstock | |||||
6b | Ashridge
1
6b
40m
2
5c+
25m
3
5c
15m
Rocks and Friends are needed. | 80m, 3 | |||
6b | Zum Ende der Welt
1
6b
25m
2
5c
15m
3
6a
40m
4
4a
40m
5
5b
50m
6
4a
45m
Rocks and Friends (Cams) are needed. | 220m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 5+ A0 | Nordwand | ||||
{UIAA} 5- A1 | Direkte Nordwand | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Ostkante | ||||
Bockmattli Ostturm | |||||
7c+ | Schattenspiel
1
7a
2
7a
3
6b
4
6c
5
7c+
6
6c
7
6a
continuous steep wall climbing, do not expect Bockmattli North slaps. FA: Erich Ruetsche & first RP Andreas Schweizer | 7 | |||
7a+ | Trubadur
1
6c+
2
6c+
3
7a+
4
6b+
5
6b
6
6b+
7
6a+
8
5c
| 8 | |||
5b A1 | Nordwand
Sanierungsbedürftig (Stand 2014) | 8 | |||
8b | Gravitation
1
7a+
2
7c+/8a
3
7b
4
8b
5
7c+
6
6c+
| 6 | |||
Bockmattli Gross Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Ostpfeiler
1
5c
50m
2
4c
50m
3
5c
50m
4
5a
45m
5
4a
50m
6
4c
45m
7
5b
45m
8
5c+
30m
9
4c
45m
10
4c
45m
11
4b
45m
12
4a
50m
| 550m, 12 | |||
7a+ | Einsiedlerweg
1
5c+
2
6a
3
5c+
4
7a
5
5a
6
7a+
7
5b
5c+ /A1 Route geht in die Ostkante | 8 | |||
7c | Zischtigsclub
1
5c+
2
7a
3
6b
4
7b
5
7b
6
7b+
7
6c
8
7c
9
6b
10
5c
| 10 | |||
6a | Alte Nordwand
1
6a
2
5b
3
4b
4
5b
5
4a
6
3
7
4a
Startet etwa in der Haelfte von Direkte Nordwand (nach 5SL links weg) | 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Direkte Nordwand
1
4b
30m
2
5c
45m
3
5c+
45m
4
5c+
30m
5
6a+
45m
6
6a
20m
7
5c+
30m
8
5c
45m
9
5b
45m
10
5c+
45m
11
2
45m
FA: M. Niedermann & P. Diener, 1956 | 430m, 11 | |||
5c+ | Aquarius
1
4b
2
4b
3
5b
4
5b
5
5c+
6
5c
7
5c
8
5c
9
5c
10
5c
11
5a
12
3
5c+/ A1 | 11 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Supertramp
1
3
2
6a+
3
6c+
4
6a
5
6b
6
5c+
7
5c+
8
6c+
9
6a
10
6b
11
6a
12
6b
Video Supertramp FFA: Martin Scheel & Gregor Benisowitsch, 1980 | 11 | |||
6a+ | Freetrip
1
6a+
35m
2
6a+
35m
3
5a
35m
4
5b
50m
5
6a
25m
6
6a
30m
7
5a
30m
8
5b
40m
| 280m, 8 | |||
6a+ | Nordwandriss
1
3
2
6a
3
6a+
4
4a
| 4 | |||
6a | ★★ Nordwestwand
1
5c
25m
2
5b
40m
3
5c
25m
4
5c+
35m
5
5c
35m
6
6a
35m
7
5b
30m
8
4b
35m
| 260m, 8 | |||
6c | Dreimal kurz gelacht
1
6b+
2
6b
3
6c
4
6a
5
6a+
6
5c
| 7 | |||
Bockmattli Gross Bockmattliturm West | |||||
6b | Westwand
1
5c
25m
2
4a
30m
3
5c
35m
4
5c+
25m
5
6b
40m
6
5c
20m
6a obl. Route Westwand aufgrund Felsausbruch nicht kletterbar Set: FA: W.Fleischmann & M.Niedermann, 1954 | 180m, 6, 10 | |||
{UIAA} 4+ | Westriss
1
4
25m
2
4+
25m
3
4
20m
4
3
30m
5
3+
30m
6
3
45m
| 180m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 5- | Südgrat | 4 | |||
{UIAA} 3 | Deubergrätchen | ||||
{UIAA} 6- | Direkter Westriss
1
2
2
6-
3
2
| 3 | |||
Bockmattli Westpfeiler | |||||
5c | Westwand am Westpfeiler
1
4b
2
5c
3
5b
4
5c
5
5c
6
3
7
3
| 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Westpfeiler
1
3a
20m
2
4b
30m
3
4b
30m
4
6a+
35m
5
5a
40m
6
5b
35m
7
4c
35m
8
3a
15m
einies an Bohrhaken vorhanden, insb. in den schwierigen SL, aber auch streckenweise selbst abzusichern FA: C.Fleischmann, C.Hauser & M.Niedermann, 1954 | 240m, 8 | |||
6c+ | Südwand
1
6a
2
6c+
3
5b
4
5b
5
5c+
6
4c
Set: FA: E.Glaus & J.Hensler, 1960 | 6 | |||
6c | Salome
1
6c
45m
2
6a+
35m
FA: M.Scheel & V.Vodicka, 1983 | 80m, 2, 10 | |||
Bockmattli Foehrenturm | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★ Alte Nordwand
1
4
40m
2
5
30m
3
5
35m
4
6
30m
5
6
33m
6
5+
33m
7
5+
40m
1993 sanierte Msl Route an Wasserrinnen FA: 1962 | 240m, 7 | |||
{UIAA} 8- | Projekt | ||||
Bockmattli Klein Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||
{UIAA} 6+ | ★★ Alte Nordwand
1
4
35m
2
6+
15m
3
5-
30m
4
5
30m
5
4
40m
6
2
10m
7
3
50m
8
4-
45m
9
3+
45m
10
4
45m
11
3
20m
Der Einstieg befindet sich bei der Wasserfassung am rechten Wandfuss des kleinen Turms. Nach links wegklettern. Nach der Hälfte der Seil Länge (beim kleinen Baum) zweigt "Prachtsexemplar" nach rechts hoch von der Route ab, hier weiter nach links Richtung Verschneidung. In der 6. SL zuerst auf der linken Seite der Rinne folgen, danach nach links aus der Rinne rausklettern. In den einfacheren Längen gibt es nur wenig Haken. Keile und Mittlere Cams mitnehmen. Beim Ausstieg etwas nach SE abklettern, dann 25m Abseilen. Nochmal etwas abklettern und 2x 25m in die Klein Chälen Abseilen. FA: C. Hauser & J. Krebs, 1945 | 370m, 11 | |||
{UIAA} 8 | Roter Winter
1
8-
40m
2
8
40m
3
6
30m
4
8-
50m
5
6
40m
| 200m, 5 | |||
{UIAA} 7 | Ueli Hürlemann Gedächtnisweg
1
7-
35m
2
6+
35m
3
7
20m
4
6+
50m
5
6
45m
6
3
40m
7
5+
50m
8
5+
45m
9
3
40m
| 360m, 10 | |||
{UIAA} 7 | Direkte Nordwand
1
6
20m
2
2
40m
3
4
20m
4
5+
40m
5
5
20m
6
6+
25m
7
7
35m
8
3
45m
| 250m, 8 | |||
Bockmattli Klein Bockmattliturm West | |||||
{UIAA} 7 | Gilgen hau ab
1
5
50m
2
6-
37m
3
7
40m
| 130m, 3 | |||
5c+ | ★★ Westwändli
1
5a
2
3a
3
2a
4
4b
5
5c+
6
4b
7
3c
8
3a
| 200m, 8, 29 | |||
7a+ | Direkte Westkante
1
4a
2
5c
3
7a
4
7a+
5
7a+
| 9 | |||
7a+ | Himmelskante
1
4a
2
5c
3
7a
4
7a+
5
6a
6
6c
7
6c+
| 7 | |||
7b | Frick an Strick
1
6a
2
5c
3
6c
4
7a+
5
6c
6
7b
| 6 | |||
6c+ | Element of slime
1
5a
2
6c+
3
6c+
4
6a
5
6c+
6
6c+
7
6c+
| 7 | |||
Bockmattli Klein Bockmattliturm Sued | |||||
6c+ | Pogoparty | 30m | |||
7b | Tschanun Rap | 30m | |||
6b | Strohmänner und Handlanger | 30m | |||
7a+ | Kränkit Nudel | 27m | |||
7b+ | Rotznase | 25m | |||
6a | 37,9 | 25m | |||
7a | Franzl goes to Heaven | 20m | |||
Bockmattli Namenloser Turm | |||||
5a | ★★ Namenlose Kante
1
3c
45m
2
4b
30m
3
4b
30m
4
3b
45m
5
5a
40m
6
4c
30m
7
5a
25m
8
4c
45m
9
3c
15m
Start at the bolted belay point marked with blue paint. Route follows an arete to top out to a small peak. All belay stations consist of a ring bolt and an expansion bolt. Protection consists of a mixture of expansion bolts and natural gear. The climb is occasionally run out, route finding is sometimes difficult and bailing could be complex. The rock quality is generally good but there is still plenty of loose rock on the route. From the top it's possible to hike directly down the mountain via a valley to the right of the climb. It is also possible to hike to the summit of Bockmattli. A complete topo is available in the Schweiz Plaisir Ost Guidebook. Pitches:
| 310m, 9 | |||
6b | ★★ Höhlenweg
1
4b
60m
2
5c+
10m
3
6b
35m
4
4c
40m
5
6a
20m
6
6a
30m
7
5b
35m
8
5c
40m
9
5c
35m
10
5c+
20m
11
6a
30m
1996 neu eingerichtet / saniert; allerdings weiterhin KK&Friends sehr nützlich FA: C. Hauser & J. Hensler, 1959 | 360m, 11 | |||
{UIAA} 5 | Westkante (Schafstöckli)
1
5
25m
2
5
35m
3
3+
20m
4
4
40m
5
2
6
3
7
3
| 120m, 7 | |||
Bockmattli Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch | |||||
5c+ | Clean Climb Trip
1
3
2
5a
3
5b
4
5c+
| 100m, 4 | |||
5b | ★★ Am Marcel sini
1
5b
2
5a
| 2 | |||
5c | ★ Zustiegsroute | ||||
6a+ | Flowerpower
1
6a+
2
5c+
3
3
Startet ab dem Stand der Routen 'Am Marcel sini' oder 'Zustiegsroute'. | 3 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Gumpiroute
1
6a+
2
6b+
Startet ab dem Stand nach den Routen 'Am Marcel sini' oder 'Zustiegsroute'. | 2 | |||
6b | ★★ Andromeda
1
6b
2
6a+
Startet ab dem Stand der Routen 'Am Marcel sini' oder 'Zustiegsroute'. | 2 | |||
6c+ | Perseus
Startet ab dem ersten Stand der Route 'Gumpiroute'. | ||||
5b | ★★★ Riss des Caesars
On September 7th, 2018 a crack was free climbed on Schiberg (near Bockmattlihütte). The lead climber (César Díaz) and the partnership (Eduardo Alonso) opened this new route in the most pure style: hammer and pitons were not carried, and compromise was total. Only a set of TotemCams were used. For future repetitions: Only cams, wedges (set) and slings are required (x10 Express). Abseiling down from a pine tree was set up with slings and screw carabiner (Siuranana, Lucky). Double ropes are recommended. We beg to not use pitons or fixed material ever on this route. Please. Topo available in Bockmattlihütte by Benno Kaelin. Say hello to him from us. FA: César Díaz & Eduardo Alonso Gil, 7 Sep 2018 | 50m | |||
Wändlispitz | |||||
6a+ | Direkter S-Pfeiler
1
5c+
30m
2
6a+
35m
3
6a
45m
4
5c+
35m
5c+ obl., Friends FA: C.Abegg & M.Dettling, 1996 | 150m, 4, 10 | |||
5b A1 | S-Pfeiler | ||||
Chöpfenberg | |||||
6a | Schreckmümpfeli
1
5c+
20m
2
6a
25m
3
5a
40m
FA: E.Rütsche & E.Schnellmann, 1985 | 85m, 3 | |||
6c+ | Nordlicht
1
6a
45m
2
6b+
35m
3
6c+
20m
4
6a+
45m
FA: B.Estermann, A.Maissen & E.Rütsche, 1989 | 150m, 4 | |||
6c | Ozonalarm
1
6a
45m
2
6a+
35m
3
6c
45m
4
6b
45m
5
6b+
25m
FA: J.Rohr, E.Rütsche & P.Weber, 1988 | 200m, 5 | |||
6a | Grüeni Wälla
1
6a
45m
2
4c
45m
3
5a
40m
4
5b
35m
5
5c
45m
FA: E.Rütsche & E.Schnellmann, 1985 | 210m, 5 | |||
6b | Via Grischa
1
6a+
25m
2
5c+
20m
3
6b
15m
4
6b
40m
5
4b
45m
6
3
30m
Set: FA: G.Benisowitsch & G.Dürrenberger, 1986 | 180m, 6 | |||
5b | ★★★ Südgrat
1
4a
40m
2
4a
40m
3
3a
40m
4
5b
40m
5
4c
40m
6
3b
40m
7
3b
40m
8
4a
40m
9
4a
40m
Vereinzelte Schlaghaken (1. SL, 4. SL, 5. SL), Standplatzschlingen und ein fixer Tricam (9. SL). Zwischensicherungen und Standplätze müssen überwiegend selbst eingerichtet werden. Schlüsselseillängen Nr. 4 und 5 können ostseitig durch Legföhren umgangen werden (3a). Die Bewerung der Seillängen wurden im Vergleich zur bestehenden Literatur etwas angehoben, da dort teilweise deutlich unterbewertet. Abstieg vom Gipfel gegen Osten über Alpinwanderweg (weiss-blau-weiss). | 360m, 9 |
Showing all 67 routes.