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Routes in Gletschhorn

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Showing all 3 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
1907
4b Südgrat
1 3b 45m
2 3a 30m
3 3b 40m
4 4b 35m
5 3a 40m
6 3b 35m
7 3c 30m
8 3b 22m
9 3a 38m
10 4a 40m
11 3b 30m

Approach on steep snow (40°). Ice axe and crampons required.

A splendid rock ridge with good granite and bolted belays. Some of harder passages and difficult to protect have bolts. Trad gear needed. Descent: 1 rappel (single 50m ok) from summit then down-climb loose terrain to reach a buttress protruding from face in fall line. From here 2 more rappels down to snowfield.

FA: G.Lochmatter & H.Kunze, 1907

Trad 390m, 11 Gletschhorn
1985
5c+ Enfer doux
1 5c
2 5c
3 5a
4 5c
5 5a
6 5c+

(5c obl.)

FA: Yves Rémy & Claude Rémy, 1985

Trad 6 Gletschhorn
1994
7a Little Chamonix
1 7a
2 6a
3 6b
4 6a+
5 5b
6 6a+
7 5c+
8 6b

(6a obl.)

First pitch can be climbed as "6b 2 p.a.".

FA: Jürg von Känel, Beni Wenger & Markus Fuchs, 1994

Trad 230m, 8 Gletschhorn

Showing all 3 routes.

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