Ascents in Fire Wall having Beta

SO CREAMY groove on

Rebirthed into a drippy wonderland

中午好像喝了点儿chang，回过神儿的时候已经下午3点多了。这条难点翻屋檐不算尖锐，线路挺长，我爬完忘了看海了，可见心境一般。大j人沙拉老师有被昨天差点翻船的经历冲击到，主动进行时间管理，自己爬线爬的非常努力，磕碰挺多，令人动容。我们不到五点就跑路了，结果长尾船还是很难拼到人，还是掏了较高价到了王赛海鲜，又点了很多吃了很多。这一切都是命运石之门的选择，世界线收束于王赛海鲜。我在这个下午发现了catwall上的挂片，貌似catwall比firewall还更好接近一些，下次来试试。甲米真好啊。

汗流满面的长线 好玩

快乐线

甲米好像有个传统艺能叫火焰表演，就是一群光膀子肌肉男在晚上拿个火棍在那转火棍的同时跳舞。火墙的起名又是火又是烟又是烟囱，应该是在突出这个事儿。我心想他们小时候肯定没有玩火尿炕这一说。话说那俩妹子一顿彩虹屁之后又告诉我这是个6b，我心想那我就顺手收了吧。结果这是个仰角屋檐，屋檐脚点又很高，cuan死我，能用的手点是一个好点的crimp，俩差的crimp。我在那吊狗活活吊到末班长尾船已经跑路了，期间一堆国际朋友不断的在spray beta：'i dont know but if you put your left foot...'，现在我深信他们跟我一样都是菜鸡无疑，而且看热闹不嫌事儿大，恨不得拿着玉米片儿边磕边看。我最后好不容易翻上屋檐，直接把俩快挂扣到绳环上就下降跑路了。回去的长尾船只有我和沙拉老师俩人包船，付出了惨重的经济代价，而且风高浪急，船一直在左右晃，作欲翻状，沙拉老师左手crimp住船罩子，右手pinch船舷，一直在过度抓点，手都掐白了，可能是觉得她要交代到这了。我事后反思，还是不能轻信陌生岩友的话，宛如喝酒的时候不能相信主人对酒度数的评价一样。

火墙人巨多，我不愿排队了，本想去隔壁融化墙，但接近有点费劲，就撤回来了。正好有俩外国妹子在这条线上上不去了需要帮助，我当然要一展雄风。这个crux吃臂展，臂展短的人够是能够到，但就是吓人。我直接就够着了，爬完好像囫囵吞枣，完全没啥印象。老外就是会夸人，下来之后一顿you are my hero之类，舌灿莲花，厚脸皮如我也略微不好意思，我嘴上一顿谦虚心里乐开了花，果然人就不能飘，飘了之后下一条线就悲剧了。

爬完两条线之后通赛海滩上就没人了，都屈服于正午的日晒。为了攀岩保持体型，没法吃太多，我们浅吃了一些薯片，椰子干，美式，木瓜鲜虾沙拉，泰式炒河粉。之后决定在海滩的阴凉岩洞那小睡一下午觉。睡觉需要地席，我去买地席准备掏钱的时候看了一眼表已经下午三点半了，末班长尾船是6点，看来睡不了一点儿了。我们来到西海岸的火墙开始爬，我挂完线下来的时候问：你说暴露感的反义词是啥？包围感？结果得到了一个意外的答案：私密性。好吧，这条烟囱线应该是我目前爬过的私密性最好的线了，左边右边前面后面全是墙，又是撑又是踹，两次爬下来beta绝不会一样。到顶了之后回头看海心旷神怡。

起步抱石难点，上面就还好了

前面仰角钟乳需要爬聪明点，要不到难点前就已经胳膊胀了

有趣的线路，风景非常棒，身后就是大海，从第五把挂翻出去那步挺吓人，要相信自己能拍到右手的碗口

仰角尝试4次 上不去放弃

Really fun route! Didn’t experience it as particularly polished.

Fun climb! Bouldery start which gives it a +, but otherwise a solid 6a.

The route is smooth as butter, very nice experience! A must do for easier grades in Tonsai ⭐️

cool line, did the squeeze start. when dark, you look up and the route just keeps on going. glad we could hop on after the massive queue

jugs and good feet

Such a unique 6a!! crawling through a tunnel, jugging your way up to a nice chimney climb. Nice night climbing session

Start far left and traverse to the right after the 1st bolt and clip red and yellow sling and then go up, was a bit confised but nice jugs all the way up

Blew the onsight. Bit of a stiff warm up, fun moves though

It’s all jugs!

Thought this was super soft for the grade… turns out I just hadn’t made it to the top

A classic midnight, baked, tipsy, naked, barefoot, greenpoint onsight, of a phenomenonal line. Might have dropped it if I didn't have the 3rd leg for stemming.

Bag of sand

Someone told me they were working it and had put all the draws on. I go for the onsightfeeling fresh and only half the draws are on and I didn't bring any up... Got it second go. Grade A Stitch up if you ask me.

This was a bit hard toward the top, rested once since I took the polished crimps the wrong way.

Really SICK line

Clipped the first two bolts because of ground fall potential. After the boulderproblem (6a/6b+ FB maybe?) it's a full rest and a 6a-ish sportroute to the end.

Awesome climb!

Really fun route with a good photo opportunity. Nice moves with a classic crux. Broke part of the first knee bar tufa which blew my flash, still enough to use it. Sent second go.

从洞里钻出来起步太逗了 土行孙 剩下舒适夹角线 顶上景色挺好的

单步难点要力 前面都挺流畅的 好线

Not bad at all.

Yeah I thought it was a pretty nice 10.c - smooth sailing

Silly mistake going to what I thought were the anchors. Didn’t take enough draws for the final part so had to grab a prior draw and climbed to the top.

Great climb, great view, great time.

Interesting crux, maybe hard for short people

Messed the crux onsight 😕

Would have worked earlier if I hadn't forgotten to chalk before the crux 🙄

Soft

Nice 3d climbing

Not bad....no hard moves.

First and second draws pre-clipped. Basically, a toprope send