Routes as sport in Krabi

From the anchor of Motorcity Madhouse traverse right via the fixed rope to another set of anchors. Take the right line of bolts from there, the route climbs up and right of the huge stalactite above the belay.

1st climb to left of "Playing with Madness". Climb past 3 bolts, step over ledge clipping slings, traverse around/out onto bulging face and arete to finish.

The straight line to the right anchor on the Rock'n Roll ledge, up the white face. All titanium bolts.

Shares first jug-hold on 'Playing With Madness', immediately head right, then up face towards tufa. Crimpy, dynamic and fun.

9 titanium bolts.

Open Project! Please try !

Must-do climb! Climbs the obvious corner right of 'MadMax'. Jugs and bridging, slightly polished footholds. All titanium bolts.

Start up over hang and exit lip bridging and straight up arete. Shares anchor with, left hand climb, 'Keep Your Self Alive'.

Shares the start with 'Heartbreaker', then left towards the cave after the 4th clip and up on the inside of the pillar. Rejoins with 'Heartbreaker' after the 10th clip. 9 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

Shares the start with 'Thunderstruck'. Veers right after the 4th clip into the white tufa pipes. Rejoins with 'Thunderstruck' about halfway. 5 titanium bolts, 12 slings.

Straight up the steep orange-white rock into the white tufa pipes. Joins up with 'The Passenger' about halfway. 6 titanium bolts, 9 slings.

Climbs up on orange tufas, 3m right of 'Spanish Caravan'. Then slightly left to join 'Spanish Caravan' on the ledge about halfway. 8 titanium bolts, 10 slings.

Easy sustained climbing all the way to the roof, a perfect warm up. It's the second to last route at the sector (starts left of "The End"). At the anchor it's possible to continue into "Freebird". 9 bolts, 4 slings

Same start as The End for 6 bolts, then go left.

New line about 5m right of 'The Passenger', on structured brown and white rock. Fun moves on crimps towards the anchor. Titanium bolts and slings.

Left most route at Reservoir. Starts on juggy holds, move right 3rd bolt(crux).

Bouldery start, on slopes followed by jugs, followed by more slopes followed my more jugs... And so on untill you reach the anchor

Bolder first bolt (crux), followed by glorious climbing on jugs and slopes to anchor.

Named after the climbing gym in Singapore. Steep-pumpy-start, traversing right on jugs(crux), followed by lovely face climbing above. 13 quick draws (including anchor)

Absolutely classic, the best 8a on Krabi mainland. Bouldery start followed by beautiful dynamic-crimp-fest! Stick clip first bolt!

Steep n Crimpy!

Big Badass Roof!

Super good climbing - absolute classic! 😅

Start left big tree. Tricky left Traverse 3rd clip(crux).

Juggy, Steep, exposed, fun!

Tope rope only still bolting - has Perma top rope.

Can access from Si Sig(6b) then traverse Chill Out Ledge on fixed ropes.

Start right of tree. Jugs, tufas, so fun!

This is the easiest access route to Chill Out Ledge and Panorama Wall above.

Overhang start, then up tufa corner. Amazing classic!

Make your way up a huge flake which turns into off-width/chimney climbing. This route is the epitome of "Type 2" fun, and has a very unique style of climbing for Thailand.

You'll need at least a 50m rope and 10 draws. You can rap off the second pitch anchor all the way to the ground using a 70m rope (tie knots in ends). In the shade around 15:00 in high season, around 14:00 in low season. All titanium bolts.

Left most route on the balcony. Meanders left around the corner then straight up. Interesting moves and technical climbing on mostly vertical rock. A must do!

Second route from the left. Follow the spine (finger crack) up to the roof. Technical face climbing with fun moves.

Extension of Spinal Tap. Keep climbing up the roof crack. Sustained bouldery sequence all the way to the anchor.

Fun technical climbing that makes it's way through two roof cracks. Make sure you have your beta dialed or you will take flight.

How will your amygdala respond, will it be fight, or flight? Climb up the crack, then at the no hands rest (6th bolt) head left. Shares the first 6 bolts and anchor with "Thalamus".

Climb up the crack, then at the no hands rest (6th bolt) head right. This route has it all, cracks, hand-jams, slabs and a tufa to finish it off. Use your Thalamus, and keep those motor skills moving along. Shares the first 6 bolts and anchor with "Amygdala".

Starts on the very right of the balcony. After the 4th bolt (at the cave) stay left. Great technical finger-tweaking moves on vertical rock. Shares the first 4, last bolt and Anchor with "Dopamine".

Starts on the very right of the balcony. After the 4th bolt (at the cave) stay right. Great technical climbing on thin finger cracks. Shares the first 4, last bolt and Anchor with "Adrenaline".

FUN DEE

Dream Wall, Ao Nang

6b+, 138m (Plus 7a+ bonus 12m pitch)

Approach:

Go to Soi 11/1, PARK OPPOSITE SAINAI HOTEL, park in dirt pull out (do not park in hotel!), from parking walk straight towards rock. Follow the fixed line up (and to the right) all the way to the first bolt. The route is located left of the tree stump.

Google maps link, parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/4LMBKVmmT1NwcPrP6

1. 30m, 15 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10c (6b) Start on okay rock past a stump. Then into great but tricky white pockets and side pulls. Belay at slot ledge.

2. 30m, 15 bolts 5.10b (6a+) Start in steep exposed climbing to a good rest and then up fantastic rock. Belay at nice hanging ledge 7m below the 420 bivy cave.

3. 25m, 13 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10a (6a) Climb more great rock past the 420 cave and through the chute. Back clean a draw or two to avoid drag. Belay at a hanging rap station OR move belay left to nicer ledge (must build own anchor on two bolts)

4. 30m, 14 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10d (6b+) Trend left to steep pocket cruxy move. Then some steep tuffa. Belay at a sharp ledge.

5. 23m, 9 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10b (6a+) Starts sharp and gets good with a cruxy compression move up high. Sick stem finale out to the mega diving board (which has free wifi)!

6. (bonus pitch) 12m, 5 bolts, 2 slings, 5.12a (7a+) Steep exposed tufa!

Make sure to sign the summit register when reaching the platform.

Descent:

6-5: lower to the diving board

5-4: abseil

4-3: swing right to anchor with ring

3-2: back clip in chute to stay in close to the wall (important!)

2-1: swing right to reach slot

1-ground: abseil

Required:

16 draws Single 60m rope Long anchor sling (optional)

2 pitches. Total 20 titanium bolts. 70m rope will make to ground on rope stretch. Put knots in ends.

Can climb as one long single pitch. There is mid way anchor if needed. Helmet for belayer recommended.

Easy Access: Park at very end of street. Walk upstairs into restaurant. Wave and smile at Thai owners. Pass a helicopter on right side, continue up more stairs, Pass small swimming pool on left. Leave concrete to dirt trail, head diagonally up slope only 20m to start of route. Approach time 2 min.

Epic 40m journey! Can get lowered on a small tower with a 70m rope, but absolutely nothing shorter.

Overhang to jams to lieback to slab to vertical to... Awesome!

Second pitch of Jungle Funk. Beautiful line on beautiful rock. Looks like a 3-stars route. Someone needs to climb this and confirm the grade and awesomeness (and update this description), get on it!

One of the best climbs in Thailand according to Jonas and Nikki, especially the 2nd pitch.

One of the best climbs in Thailand according to Jonas and Nikki, especially the 2nd pitch.

Belay from the lower ledge.

3 pitch adventure route on bolts, with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and sea. Share start with Valhalla, 2nd pitch share anchor with Elysium Extension.

Share start with 5 Star, share anchor with Elysium.

Share anchor with Valhalla.

Extension to the second anchor of '5 Star'

Access by a fixed line. Shares the start with 'Flowzone'.

Access by a fixed line. Shares the start with 'Over the Falls'.

Starts on a small ledge accessed by a fixed rope.

Belay anchor at the start, accessed by a fixed rope.

8 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

3 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

4 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Shares the anchor with 'Mai Nee Chua'. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Shares the anchor with 'Hollywood and Vine'. All titanium bolts.

The belay anchor for P2 is located about 7m left and below the anchor of P1. As the name suggests, access by swinging.

1. 6 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

2. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

From the top, it is a 60m rap to the ground.

4 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Second pitch of 'Getting the Goods'. All titanium bolts.

All titanium bolts.

4 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

The most popular line on the 'Ao Nang Tower'.

1. The left line of bolts starting from the belay ledge. 10 titanium bolts.

2. Aka 'On the Rocks'. 4 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

3. Aka 'Bristol Fashion'. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

The individual line on the right of 'Orange Chandeliers', starting directly above the rope ladder. All slings.

Joob Joob is a fantastic moderate 6b adventure above the sea. Pronounced “joop joop” with lips pursed tight as if to give a kiss, it literally translates to “kiss kiss”.

Highlights of the climb include fun stalactite stemming, comfortable belay ledges, and an overhung hero tufa at the very top. Nearly every single piece of protection is a titanium bolt, except for only a few slung tufas (bomber provided the sling is in good shape).

Pitch 1 is basically an upgraded and extended version of an old single pitch called, 'Ao Nang! Ao Nang!'. It was cleaned up and rebolted with proper equipment to reach the awesome climbing on P2 and P3. There are still some remnant steel bolts that should be avoided. Always use the U style bolts that have red glue.

1. 6a, 32m, 12 bolts, 2 slings. Follow mostly easy terrain straight up and slightly right over rock of varying quality. Belay at a cozy ledge next to a massive black stalactite.

2. 6a+, 18m, 5 bolts, 1 sling. Either launch straight up from the anchor (reachy) or climb around right and step back left (easier). Then follow great stalactite stemming up the chute. Belay at another ledge near a hanging column.

3. 6b, 34m, 15 bolts, 3 slings. This is where the goods get great! Easily climb the hanging columns like a spiral staircase. Then, tackle multiple small cruxes before and after good rests on beautiful orange rock. The final overhung tufa to the anchor is the cherry on top of this stellar pitch. Once you reach the anchor, it’s best to have your partner lower you back down to the ledge and belay them from there.

Required:

18 draws and 70m rope.

Descent:

Lower one another back to the P2 ledge. Then two raps put you back onto the ledge above the water. Bonus points for keeping your rope out of the sea by clipping a stand into the leaver carabiner on P1.

Starts a little bit to the right around the corner. In the shade after 11 am.

1. Scramble up right from the kayak until you see the bolt line. Then up and left. 10 titanium bolts.

2. Through the stalactite system to the anchor on a ledge. 6 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

3. Move slightly right on the ledge to find the belay anchor. Up the stalactites to sharp rock at the top section. 8 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Left side Routes.

Classic face climbing on super clean rock with beautifl crimps.

All titanium bolts.

Right side route. Starts on bulging corner with jugs, and finish up nice crimp face to Anchor.

All titanium bolts plus 2 slings.

All bolts. Located in a cave near the restaurant. Not sure if it’s climbable due to the restaurant.

4 bolts, 1 sling.

2 bolts, 2 slings.

All slings.

3 bolts, 1 sling.

Share start with Crisis? What Crisis?.

5 bolts, 4 threads, Share start with Spanish Caravan.

Second pitch to Sut-yawd.

2nd pitch share anchor with 2nd pitch of Lois Lane. 5th pitch share anchor with 5th pitch of Pai Noon Mai.

7 bolts, watch first and second clip. 2nd pitch share anchor with 2nd pitch of Baron Von Tok.

8 bolts, 3 threads

Be careful when clipping at roof!

Pumpy! 1st pitch share start with Three Musketeers. 2nd pitch share anchor with 3rd pitch of Pai Noon Mai.