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Temple Area Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Chatfield Josh Ryan Petch Viwatsinudom Constantine Dritsas Joseph Yin Nicolas Descloux David Foo Chee Chang

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Table of contents

1. Temple Area 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 14.832072, 100.755242

access issues

Khao Jeen Lae's Temple Area is accessed via Wat Pa Suwannahong temple and is a sacred place of worship. To get to the cliff you actually have to walk through the temple and up to the main face.

The monks have been extremely nice to us climbers. The only request they have made is that climbers going to the cliff come by and say hello, and again when they leave so they know that you are safe. Please make a small donation (20 baht - 100 baht) in the donation box available on the steps if you can, this will help us maintain a good relationship with the monks.

As of March 2023, there is a 20 climber limit per day in order to preserve a peaceful relationship with the temple and the surrounding community. Please register here before your trip

Please make sure you have left the crag before 6pm as the temple doesn't want people coming down in the dark. This is very important for keeping good relationship with the temple and the crag open.

PARKING INFORMATION

If there is space please park in the driveway of 1st Pitch Thailand (available on google to find) across the street from the temple. Please do not park along the barbed wire fence. Tractors need to pass there during the day. You can access the toilet at the back of the house also. You can leave a donation for facilities via QR code on the middle door of the house. Thankyou

inherited from Khao Jeen Lae

1.1. Temple Area - Multi Pitch Climbs 0 routes in Sector

description

4 multi pitch sport routes, 1 multi pitch trad route.

SPORT MULTIPITCHES

All routes must rappel down 'Corcovado' after completion ONLY!!

TRAD MULTIPITCHES

1.2. Temple Area - Left Side 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 14.831909, 100.755603

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Avocado Super Smoothie
  1. 28m (6a+) 8 bolts

  2. 21m (6a) 8 bolts

  3. 30m (6a) 7 bolts & 1 piton

6a+ Sport 79m, 3, 23
2 Waltz for a Lovely Wife

Start just to the L of Last Day.

  1. 30m (5+) 12 Quickdraws

  2. 25m (5) 8 Quickdraws

  3. 35m (5) 9 Quickdraws

  4. 30m (5) 8 Quickdraws

  5. 33m (5) 8 Quickdraws

  6. 33m (5+) 6 Quickdraws

  7. 20m (3-4) No bolts.

Abseil Descent using Corcovado's Anchors.

Set: Jean-Jacques Braun & Ben Grasser

6a Sport 210m, 7, 9
3 Last Day

share start with High and Low.

  1. 17m (5) 5 Quickdraws

  2. 15m (6c+) 7 Quickdraws

Set: David Estey, Simon Foley & Chai Kompradit, 2000

6c+ Sport 32m, 2, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 High and Low / Low and high

share start with 1st pitch of Last Day. Anchor has two pigs tails for lower off.

Set: David Estey & Chris Sandoval, 2001

5 Sport 17m, 9
5 Anchor Spanker

Anchor has two rings. No chain.

Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2002

6b+ Sport 17m, 9
6 Losange

Set: Jean-Jacques Braun & Michael Pedenon, 2001

6a Sport 10m, 4
7 Three Dwarves and a Nut

Set: David & Monty Estey, 2000

5 Sport 18m, 6
8 Corcovado
  1. Three Dwarves and a Nut.

  2. 36m (6a) 12 Quickdraws

  3. 30m (6a) 9 Quickdraws

  4. 26m (6a) 9 Quickdraws

  5. 36m (6b) 11 Quickdraws

  6. 17m (5+) 5 Quickdraws

  7. 20m (2+) No Bolts.

Bring a second rope for abseiling pitch 4 on the descent.

Set: Ben Grasser, Worapot Klapsawat (Tao) & Sirilak Amprueang (Joy)

6b Sport 160m, 7, 12
9 8c+

Set: Cheang Qing Xin, 28 Jan 2018

5c Sport 15m, 8
10 Arai Wa?

share start with It Fits.

Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2002

6a Sport 18m, 6
11 Night Vision

The overhanging section makes it slightly more difficult than other 6as in the area. Otherwise, very cruisey.

Set: Chris Sandoval & Toto, 2001

6a Sport 22m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 It Fits

share start with Arai Wa?.

Set: Chris Sandoval, Toto & David Estey, 2001

6a Sport 14m, 6
13 Ging Thong Bai Yok

Slightly intimidating start.

Set: Gee Srisuwan, 7 Dec 2022

6a+ Sport 18m, 9
14 Bai Mai Pue Chivit

A little crimpy fun action.

Set: Tung Voravit, 8 Dec 2022

6b Sport 26m, 9
15 Ging Kan Bai

Good route for outdoor beginners. Very cruisey easy climbing the whole way through. Be a little bit careful of the cactus on top when clipping the anchor and cleaning.

Set: Gee Srisuwan, 9 Dec 2022

6a+ Sport 27m, 11
16 Dok Yer Kan Yai

Set: Gee Srisuwan, 11 Dec 2022

6b Sport 27m, 11
17 Dok Yai Bai Yer

Low first crux, mostly body positioning all the way. A little run out at the top.

Set: Tung Voravit, 11 Dec 2022

6b+ Sport 28m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Lum Yai

Mega Classic, one of the best lines in Lop Buri. Beautiful, sustained climbing almost the whole way, mega pump. Extend draws when necessary to prevent rope drag.

⚠️ 70m rope is just enough

Set: Gee Srisuwan, 22 Dec 2022

7a+ Sport 36m, 18
19 Leverage - งัดถั่งงัด งัดถั่งงัด (Ngat tha Ngat tha Ngat)

To the left of Nok Khao. Climb into the cave as climbing Pratimakam and punch out to the left to the base of the long stalactite system on the steep overhanging wall.

You can choose to belay here for less drag. Otherwise fire up the never ending stalactite and bear hug your way up some cool climbing. Wall gets steeper towards the chains and require lot of endurance and funky foot work. Lower back to the ground with a single 70m rope

Name inspired by the local song everyone was plagued by while bolting the route!

Thanks to Verticale (Malaysia for the Singing Rock hangers) and Kang Hao for flying out here to put up this route and generous donation

*
>>>>>> Credit. TaoSpeedWagon Duplicate info from MountainProject.com

FA: QX, 14 Feb 2020

7b Sport 36m
20 Leverage Leverage Leverage!!

Extension of 'Leverage'

Some features here are really fragile so be careful. Followed by firing up the what feels like 60degree overhanging hang cracks to a thank god jug.

Traverse out on the thin rail on a no feet traverse and hit a series of pockets and jugs. A interesting sequence before ending on the huge jug system on top.

Good job, your forearms is done for the day.

If you are belaying from the base of the stalactite, A 70m should get you back into the cave.

7b+ Sport 45m, 2

1.2.1. Left Side 0 routes in Area

1.2.1.1. Left Side 0 routes in Sector

1.3. Temple Area - Right Side 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 14.832171, 100.755025

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kooha Sawan / Cave heaven

Same anchor as Pratimakam.

Set: Kris Pattarasirin & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2005

5c Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Pratimakam / Sculpture

Same anchor as Kooha Sawan.

Great route for a warm up. The crux is a little tricky for shorter climbers. Go direct if you can, bear right if you really can't.

Set: Kris Pattarasirin & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2005

6a+ Sport 30m, 8
3 Pete's Retreat

Set: David Estey & Toto, 2001

6a Sport 20m, 8
4 Nok Khao Mai Chai Nok Rao

Mixed trad

  1. Pete's Retreat.

  2. 35m (6a) 12 Quickdraws

  3. 30m (6b) 10 Quickdraws

  4. 35m (6b) 10 Quickdraws

  5. 30m (6b+) 9 Quickdraws

  6. 30m (5+) No bolts

  7. 15m (2+) No bolts

Abseil Descent on Corcovado on the Left Side.

Set: Ben Grasser & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2004

6b+ Sport 200m, 7, 12
5 Cherry Popper

Set: Tao & charlie, 2021

6b Sport 9
6 Cheese Grater

Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003

6a+ Sport 26m, 9
7 Fu-Fu

Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003

6b+ Sport 31m, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Left Wing Lesbians

Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003

6c Sport 24m, 8
9 8c+ / Chimmy

Same anchor as Obelisk.

Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003

5 Sport 22m, 7
10 Moobin (The / The flying Pig

Bolted and FA by Tao Techakanon and Will Patera, Jan 2020 ............................

FFA'ed by QX and Kelly Khiew

FA: Tao Techakanon, Will Patera, Tao & Will Patera

6a Sport 160m, 5
11 Obelisk

Same anchor as '8c+' .

Looks harder than it actually is! Very fun crimpy climb. Clipping the anchor is a little intimidating as you have to reach over this crevice.

Set: David Estey, Simon Foley, Chai Kornpradit & Senee Wongpakdee (Im), 2003

6b Sport 20m, 7
12 Falbala

Right of Obelix on the arete

FA: Q X Cheang

6a/a+ Sport 27m
13 The Flying Farang
  1. Obelisk.

  2. 30m (6b)

  3. 40m (6b)

  4. 27m (6a)

  5. 30m (5)

  6. 28m (5+) Beware of big loose rocks. Stay on the wall on the left.

  7. 15m (2+)

Abseil Descent on Corcovado on Left side of Wall.

Set: Ben Grasser & Jerome Chambard, 2007

6b Trad 190m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Asterix

FA: Chow K Y

5c - 6a Sport 14m
15 Getafix

(Bolted by Chow)

FA: QX Chaeng

6c Sport 24m
16 Dogmatix

Start on Getafix and climb out right of the roof

Climb up the steep tufa to the right of the cave and layback the crack or stem between the crack and tufa to a roof. The crux starts on these steep jug pulling into a finger crack and ends just before the rock gets too sharp.

FA: Kelly Khiew

7a Sport 24m
17 The Art of Ngat

Set: QX Cheang

7b+ Sport 18m
18 Taoculator

Short and sweet. With a steep exit. Jam it straight in like a trad dad or pull down like a sport climber. Great to get away from the crowds in the middle of the wall.

FA: Dari

5c Sport 9m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5 High and Low Sport 17m, 9 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Three Dwarves and a Nut Sport 18m, 6 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
8c+ Sport 22m, 7 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
5c 8c+ Sport 15m, 8 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Kooha Sawan Trad 30m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
Taoculator Sport 9m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
5c - 6a Asterix Sport 14m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6a Arai Wa? Sport 18m, 6 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
It Fits Sport 14m, 6 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Losange Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Night Vision Sport 22m, 10 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Waltz for a Lovely Wife Sport 210m, 7, 9 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Moobin (The Sport 160m, 5 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
Pete's Retreat Sport 20m, 8 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6a/a+ Falbala Sport 27m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6a+ Avocado Super Smoothie Sport 79m, 3, 23 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Ging Kan Bai Sport 27m, 11 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Ging Thong Bai Yok Sport 18m, 9 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Cheese Grater Sport 26m, 9 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
Pratimakam Sport 30m, 8 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6b Bai Mai Pue Chivit Sport 26m, 9 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Corcovado Sport 160m, 7, 12 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Dok Yer Kan Yai Sport 27m, 11 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Cherry Popper Sport 9 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
Obelisk Sport 20m, 7 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
The Flying Farang Trad 190m, 7 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6b+ Anchor Spanker Sport 17m, 9 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Dok Yai Bai Yer Sport 28m, 9 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
Fu-Fu Sport 31m, 12 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
Nok Khao Mai Chai Nok Rao Sport 200m, 7, 12 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6c Getafix Sport 24m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
Left Wing Lesbians Sport 24m, 8 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
6c+ Last Day Sport 32m, 2, 12 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
7a Dogmatix Sport 24m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
7a+ Lum Yai Sport 36m, 18 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
7b Leverage - งัดถั่งงัด งัดถั่งงัด (Ngat tha Ngat tha Ngat) Sport 36m 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
7b+ Leverage Leverage Leverage!! Sport 45m, 2 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side
The Art of Ngat Sport 18m 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side
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