A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Matt Chatfield Josh Ryan Petch Viwatsinudom Mimi Chindasook Steve Daltrey Constantine Dritsas Joseph Yin Nicolas Descloux David Foo Chee Chang
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Table of contents
- 1.
Temple Area
38 in Crag
- 1.1. Temple Area - Multi Pitch Climbs 0 in Sector
- 1.2. Temple Area - Left Side 20 in Sector
- 1.3. Temple Area - Right Side 18 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Temple Area 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 14.832072, 100.755242
access issues
Khao Jeen Lae's Temple Area is accessed via Wat Pa Suwannahong temple and is a sacred place of worship. To get to the cliff you actually have to walk through the temple and up to the main face.
The monks have been extremely nice to us climbers. The only request they have made is that climbers going to the cliff come by and say hello, and again when they leave so they know that you are safe. Please make a small donation (20 baht - 100 baht) in the donation box available on the steps if you can, this will help us maintain a good relationship with the monks.
As of March 2023, there is a 20 climber limit per day in order to preserve a peaceful relationship with the temple and the surrounding community. Please register here before your trip
Please make sure you have left the crag before 6pm as the temple doesn't want people coming down in the dark. This is very important for keeping good relationship with the temple and the crag open.
PARKING INFORMATION
If there is space please park in the driveway of 1st Pitch Thailand (available on google to find) across the street from the temple. Please do not park along the barbed wire fence. Tractors need to pass there during the day. You can access the toilet at the back of the house also. You can leave a donation for facilities via QR code on the middle door of the house. Thankyou
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1.1. Temple Area - Multi Pitch Climbs 0 routes in Sector
- 'Corcovado' 6b
- 'Waltz for a Lovely Wife' 6a
- 'Avocado Super Smoothie' 6a+
- 'Last Day' 6c
- 'Kooha Sawan' 5c
description
4 multi pitch sport routes, 1 multi pitch trad route.
SPORT MULTIPITCHES
All routes must rappel down 'Corcovado' after completion ONLY!!
TRAD MULTIPITCHES
1.2. Temple Area - Left Side 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 14.831909, 100.755603
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Avocado Super Smoothie
| 6a+ | 79m, 3, 23 | |||||
2 |
★★ Waltz for a Lovely Wife
Start just to the L of Last Day.
Abseil Descent using Corcovado's Anchors. Set: Jean-Jacques Braun & Ben Grasser | 6a | 210m, 7, 9 | |||||
3 |
Last Day
share start with High and Low.
Set: David Estey, Simon Foley & Chai Kompradit, 2000 | 6c+ | 32m, 2, 12 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★ High and Low / Low and high
share start with 1st pitch of Last Day. Anchor has two pigs tails for lower off. Set: David Estey & Chris Sandoval, 2001 | 5 | 17m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Anchor Spanker
Anchor has two rings. No chain. Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2002 | 6b+ | 17m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Losange
Set: Jean-Jacques Braun & Michael Pedenon, 2001 | 6a | 10m, 4 | |||||
7 |
Three Dwarves and a Nut
Set: David & Monty Estey, 2000 | 5 | 18m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Corcovado
Bring a second rope for abseiling pitch 4 on the descent. Set: Ben Grasser, Worapot Klapsawat (Tao) & Sirilak Amprueang (Joy) | 6b | 160m, 7, 12 | |||||
9 |
★ 8c+
Set: Cheang Qing Xin, 28 Jan 2018 | 5c | 15m, 8 | |||||
10 |
★ Arai Wa?
share start with It Fits. Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2002 | 6a | 18m, 6 | |||||
11 |
★★ Night Vision
The overhanging section makes it slightly more difficult than other 6as in the area. Otherwise, very cruisey. Set: Chris Sandoval & Toto, 2001 | 6a | 22m, 10 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ It Fits
share start with Arai Wa?. Set: Chris Sandoval, Toto & David Estey, 2001 | 6a | 14m, 6 | |||||
13 |
★★ Ging Thong Bai Yok
Slightly intimidating start. Set: Gee Srisuwan, 7 Dec 2022 | 6a+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
14 |
★★ Bai Mai Pue Chivit
A little crimpy fun action. Set: Tung Voravit, 8 Dec 2022 | 6b | 26m, 9 | |||||
15 |
★★ Ging Kan Bai
Good route for outdoor beginners. Very cruisey easy climbing the whole way through. Be a little bit careful of the cactus on top when clipping the anchor and cleaning. Set: Gee Srisuwan, 9 Dec 2022 | 6a+ | 27m, 11 | |||||
16 |
★★ Dok Yer Kan Yai
Set: Gee Srisuwan, 11 Dec 2022 | 6b | 27m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★★ Dok Yai Bai Yer
Low first crux, mostly body positioning all the way. A little run out at the top. Set: Tung Voravit, 11 Dec 2022 | 6b+ | 28m, 9 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★★ Lum Yai
Mega Classic, one of the best lines in Lop Buri. Beautiful, sustained climbing almost the whole way, mega pump. Extend draws when necessary to prevent rope drag. ⚠️ 70m rope is just enough Set: Gee Srisuwan, 22 Dec 2022 | 7a+ | 36m, 18 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Leverage - งัดถั่งงัด งัดถั่งงัด (Ngat tha Ngat tha Ngat)
To the left of Nok Khao. Climb into the cave as climbing Pratimakam and punch out to the left to the base of the long stalactite system on the steep overhanging wall. You can choose to belay here for less drag. Otherwise fire up the never ending stalactite and bear hug your way up some cool climbing. Wall gets steeper towards the chains and require lot of endurance and funky foot work. Lower back to the ground with a single 70m rope Name inspired by the local song everyone was plagued by while bolting the route! Thanks to Verticale (Malaysia for the Singing Rock hangers) and Kang Hao for flying out here to put up this route and generous donation
FA: QX, 14 Feb 2020 | 7b | 36m | |||||
20 |
Leverage Leverage Leverage!!
Extension of 'Leverage' Some features here are really fragile so be careful. Followed by firing up the what feels like 60degree overhanging hang cracks to a thank god jug. Traverse out on the thin rail on a no feet traverse and hit a series of pockets and jugs. A interesting sequence before ending on the huge jug system on top. Good job, your forearms is done for the day. If you are belaying from the base of the stalactite, A 70m should get you back into the cave. | 7b+ | 45m, 2 |
1.2.1. Left Side 0 routes in Area
1.2.1.1. Left Side 0 routes in Sector
1.3. Temple Area - Right Side 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 14.832171, 100.755025
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Kooha Sawan / Cave heaven
Same anchor as Pratimakam. Set: Kris Pattarasirin & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2005 | 5c | 30m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Pratimakam / Sculpture
Same anchor as Kooha Sawan. Great route for a warm up. The crux is a little tricky for shorter climbers. Go direct if you can, bear right if you really can't. Set: Kris Pattarasirin & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2005 | 6a+ | 30m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ Pete's Retreat
Set: David Estey & Toto, 2001 | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||||
4 |
★★ Nok Khao Mai Chai Nok Rao
Mixed trad
Abseil Descent on Corcovado on the Left Side. Set: Ben Grasser & Thamarat Sukjeeradet (Ong), 2004 | 6b+ | 200m, 7, 12 | |||||
5 |
Cherry Popper
Set: Tao & charlie, 2021 | 6b | 9 | |||||
6 |
Cheese Grater
Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003 | 6a+ | 26m, 9 | |||||
7 |
Fu-Fu
Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003 | 6b+ | 31m, 12 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ Left Wing Lesbians
Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003 | 6c | 24m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ 8c+ / Chimmy
Same anchor as Obelisk. Set: David Estey & Simon Foley, 2003 | 5 | 22m, 7 | |||||
10 |
Moobin (The / The flying Pig
Bolted and FA by Tao Techakanon and Will Patera, Jan 2020 ............................ FFA'ed by QX and Kelly Khiew FA: Tao Techakanon, Will Patera, Tao & Will Patera | 6a | 160m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ Obelisk
Same anchor as '8c+' . Looks harder than it actually is! Very fun crimpy climb. Clipping the anchor is a little intimidating as you have to reach over this crevice. Set: David Estey, Simon Foley, Chai Kornpradit & Senee Wongpakdee (Im), 2003 | 6b | 20m, 7 | |||||
12 |
Falbala
Right of Obelix on the arete FA: Q X Cheang | 6a/a+ | 27m | |||||
13 |
The Flying Farang
Abseil Descent on Corcovado on Left side of Wall. Set: Ben Grasser & Jerome Chambard, 2007 | 6b | 190m, 7 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
Asterix
FA: Chow K Y | 5c - 6a | 14m | |||||
15 |
Getafix
(Bolted by Chow) FA: QX Chaeng | 6c | 24m | |||||
16 |
★★ Dogmatix
Start on Getafix and climb out right of the roof Climb up the steep tufa to the right of the cave and layback the crack or stem between the crack and tufa to a roof. The crux starts on these steep jug pulling into a finger crack and ends just before the rock gets too sharp. FA: Kelly Khiew | 7a | 24m | |||||
17 |
The Art of Ngat
Set: QX Cheang | 7b+ | 18m | |||||
18 |
★ Taoculator
Short and sweet. With a steep exit. Jam it straight in like a trad dad or pull down like a sport climber. Great to get away from the crowds in the middle of the wall. FA: Dari | 5c | 9m |