Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | ★★ Colly Wobble
FA: Simon Nadin & John Perry, 1987 | 11m | Staffordshire | ||
E4 UKT:6b | Puffed Up
Powerful moves up the sidewall lead to a harrowing exit. | 8m | Staffordshire | ||
E8 UKT:6c | Branded
| The Brand | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Rurp The Wild Berserk
| 21m | The Brand | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Rhythm Collision
| The Brand | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Burley but Sensitive
| 12m | The Brand | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Ejected
| The Brand | |||
E7 UKT:6c | ★ Bad Ass Jenga
P1, E6 6c the obvious white shield left of the bottom pitch of Blind faith. Climb up below the wall, arrange gear in the crack on the left, climb up and right via a peg using some very small crimps (avoiding the section out left) before going straight up to the ledge above. P2, E5/6 6a. From the ledge. Move out left and go up the loose groove to the sloping ledge above. Climb straight up via the hanging fang block, stuck wire, to a sloping shelf handhold, hidden peg round to the left in a groovelet, (rest round to the right) before steep moves lead up and left onto a perched slab and belay. P3, E4 5b, move up and left above the belay and arrange gear, before pulling straight up through the dry stone wall section. Above, step left to a shot hole with a crack (gear) before moving back up and right to finish straight up more easily. Possibly E7 for the full route. | 50m, 3 | Shropshire | ||
E6 UKT:6b | Boss Walk
| The Brand | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Black is Beautiful
| 30m | Shropshire | ||
E8 UKT:6c | Shed of Dread
| 12m | The Brand | ||
E6 UKT:6b | Amelia Rose
| 15m | The Brand | ||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ Bloodstone | Staffordshire | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Scabby Banana
| The Brand | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★ Bloodspeed | Staffordshire | |||
E5 UKT:6b | National Hysteria
| 10m | Staffordshire | ||
E6 UKT:6b | Man from Atlantis
| 19m | The Brand | ||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Ray's Roof
Horizontal offwidth crack. FA: Ray Jardine, 1977 | 8m | Staffordshire | ||
E6 UKT:6c | Riding the Gravy Train
| 11m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Gujerati Girl
| 23m | The Brand | ||
E7 UKT:6c | Le Cirque | Shropshire | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Johnny's Indirect Rear Entry
The three dimensional slug-trail on the wall round right. | 6m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | The Last Post - Direct
| The Brand | |||
E7 UKT:6c | Tombola
FA: Crispin Waddy | Shropshire | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Basher
| The Brand | |||
E8 UKT:6c | My Piano | Shropshire | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Fluorescent Adolescent
| 19m | The Brand | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Cones and Current | Shropshire | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Sunshine on a Rainy Day! | 19m | Craig Buddon | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Jump | 16m | Shropshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Brothers In Arms | 17m | Craig Buddon | ||
E7 UKT:6c | Marlene Direct | Shropshire | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Licence to Kill
From the top of the flake on Licence to Run continue straight up to the hanging crack above past seeming blankness. FA: Gary Cooper, 2000 | 22m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Trouble in Toytown | Shropshire | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Catastrophe Internationale
From the right-hand end of the long elongated slot, climb straight up the steep wall by hard pulls on pebbles and desperate friction. The landing is hard. | 8m | Staffordshire | ||
E7 UKT:6c | Gathering Sun
FA: Nick Dixon, 1987 | 16m | Shropshire | ||
E4 UKT:6b | ★ Bareback Rider
The arete on its right-hand side and the high slab above. | 8m | Staffordshire | ||
E6 UKT:6b | Bass Drum Heart | Shropshire | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Days of Future Passed
Climb the rounded arete by laybacking to good gear and a though-provoking mantelshelf finish | 10m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | The Nuance | Shropshire | |||
E4 UKT:6b | ★ Pindels Numb
Finger traverse left from the with increasing difficulty (V5 to here) and pull into the leaning corner with great difficulty. Once established, finish easily. | 10m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Nonsense | Shropshire | |||
E6 UKT:6c | Heredity
A direct start to A Fist Full of Crystals, avoiding the use of the right-hand side slab. | Staffordshire | |||
E8 UKT:6c | Cassini | Shropshire | |||
E7 UKT:6b | Destination Earth
The slab is bold and precarious. A side-runner (placed on route) may stop you repeating the first ascensionist's bouncing trick but then the route is only really worth E4. | 12m | Staffordshire | ||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★ New Fi'nial
FA: Simon Nadin, Richard Davies & Gary Cooper, 1985 | 28m | Staffordshire | ||
E8 UKT:6c | Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans | Shropshire | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Steps | 30m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | ★ 99% of Gargoyles Look like Bob Todd
FA: Simon Nadin, 1986 | 24m | Staffordshire | ||
E7 UKT:6c | 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning | Shropshire | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement of Knowing...
Strange name, good route! The right side of the Elegy slab is at the limit of friction and the grade varies from E4 to E6 depending on how high you put the side runner in The Bulger. A wire in Elegy can also be used to reduce the swing potential. | 14m | Staffordshire | ||
E3 UKT:6b | Senseless | 10m | Forest Rock | ||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Paralogism
FA: Simon Nadin, 1987 | 15m | Staffordshire | ||
E2 UKT:6b | Yew Tree Free | Pleasley Vale | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Bird o'Clock | Shropshire | |||
E6 UKT:6c | ★★ Northern Comfort
From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy. | 14m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6c | ★★ Antithesis
FA: Jonny Woodward, 1980 | 15m | Staffordshire | ||
E7 UKT:6b | Bird Brain | Shropshire | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Cold Blood
From the junction of Pincer and Guano Gully, rock up onto the slab, and continue direct via a sustained sequence. | Staffordshire | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Khanaan | Shropshire | |||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Goldcrest
The impressive left arête of the Hawkwing buttress. | 18m | Staffordshire | ||
E4 UKT:6b | Sorcerer Direct | Forest Rock | |||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Logical Progression
The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest. | 20m | Staffordshire | ||
E5 UKT:6b | Sorcerer’s Apprentice | 11m | Forest Rock | ||
E3 UKT:6b | Punch
Force a way into the hanging groove with great difficulty (and with overhead gear) then finish more easily through the shrubbery above. | 14m | Staffordshire | ||
E6 UKT:6b | Sorcerers Apprentice - variant Finish | 12m | Forest Rock | ||
E6 UKT:6b | The Emergency Exit
Direct finish to Piece of Mind for those who find the easier/scarier rightward step to much to handle. | Staffordshire | |||
E6 UKT:6c | ★ A Flabby Crack
FA: Neil Travers, 1992 | 10m | Staffordshire | ||
E8 UKT:6c | ★★ Final Destination
Continue direct up the bald slab above the start of Thin Air to a finish just right of Piece of Mind. | 9m | Staffordshire | ||
E6 UKT:6b | Sorceress | 12m | Forest Rock | ||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ The Stone Loach
FA: Gary Gibson, 1981 | 10m | Staffordshire | ||
E3 UKT:6b | ★★ The Puffter
Left of Puffed Up. Using the large obvious undercut and a couple hidden crimps from direct. Success or a potential back breaking landing awaits Please avoid using the obvious fragile bit of rock before the first rockover. Highball 7a+ and a potential modern classic. | 8m | Staffordshire | ||
Sport | |||||
7c | ★★ Little Weed
This route follows the central crack-line and is highly regarded for its quality. The upper half of the climb poses a considerable challenge. | 10m | Shropshire | ||
7c | The Medium | 12m | Forest Rock | ||
Boulder | |||||
FB:7A | R5 | Hollin Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | ★★ The Big Dyno | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Greenbeard
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | Ant Lives | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Pirate Fever
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | A Modest Proposal | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Let ‘Er Rip
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | ★ Nadin's Traverse
traverse R, finish up Pixie | Staffordshire | |||
{FB} 7A | ★ Broken Wing | Staffordshire | |||
V6 | Fairy Tits
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | Toucan | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Mike's Dyno
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | ★ Limbless Limbo Dancer | Staffordshire | |||
{AU} V7 | ★★★ Tierdrop
| Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | ★★ Tree-mendous | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Reversal
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | ★ Too Drunk | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | ★ Tree-mendous eliminate
Yet another silly eliminate, Climb Tree-mendous eliminating the shallow pocket. Take the small slanted crimp with your right hand, establish your left foot on a pebble of choice and crank to the jug. Only slightly harder than the original line. | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Snap, Crackle and Pop
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | ★ The Gates | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | ★★★ The Power of Juan
Sit down with your left hand on a small sidepull and your right on a sloping undercut. Shoot for the right arete and employ strong compression moves to ascend the boulder. Avoid the foot blocks and ledges beneath | Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | The Man with the Red Face | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Jean Luc
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | ★ Acne Arête | Staffordshire | |||
FB:7A | Captain Cademan
| Cademan Wood and Broad Hill | |||
{FB} 7A | Spotter's Slop | Staffordshire |