Routes in Midlands for selected grade

Continue direct up the bald slab above the start of Thin Air to a finish just right of Piece of Mind.

The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest.

The impressive left arête of the Hawkwing buttress.

Horizontal offwidth crack.

P1, E6 6c the obvious white shield left of the bottom pitch of Blind faith. Climb up below the wall, arrange gear in the crack on the left, climb up and right via a peg using some very small crimps (avoiding the section out left) before going straight up to the ledge above. P2, E5/6 6a. From the ledge. Move out left and go up the loose groove to the sloping ledge above. Climb straight up via the hanging fang block, stuck wire, to a sloping shelf handhold, hidden peg round to the left in a groovelet, (rest round to the right) before steep moves lead up and left onto a perched slab and belay. P3, E4 5b, move up and left above the belay and arrange gear, before pulling straight up through the dry stone wall section. Above, step left to a shot hole with a crack (gear) before moving back up and right to finish straight up more easily. Possibly E7 for the full route.

From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy.

A direct start to A Fist Full of Crystals, avoiding the use of the right-hand side slab.

Sit down with your left hand on a small sidepull and your right on a sloping undercut. Shoot for the right arete and employ strong compression moves to ascend the boulder.

Avoid the foot blocks and ledges beneath

Start from a sidepull and the sloper adjacent to its right. Progress upwards and towards the left to complete along the left portion of the arête.

Yet another silly eliminate, Climb Tree-mendous eliminating the shallow pocket. Take the small slanted crimp with your right hand, establish your left foot on a pebble of choice and crank to the jug.

Only slightly harder than the original line.

Dyno Sly Stallone without using foot ramp.

Sit start at Crack and Arête traverse left around the corner keeping low into the start of the Ripple. Then finish up the Ripple. A technical heel hook and a lot of balance are required to join the start of the Ripple, for the short.

traverse R, finish up Pixie

The square arete on the left.

#SD

#SD

Climb the prow from the back via some crimps and big moves up and left.

This route follows the central crack-line and is highly regarded for its quality. The upper half of the climb poses a considerable challenge.